My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[iankoglin]

Kogs Coil

Hello Ian,

The Primary should be wired as a Multifilar , meaning all strands together, do not need to twist them, just straight but keeping them together as you wire, since they tend to spread apart (not good).

Now Radiant transfers from OUTSIDE-IN, and NOT good, very weak when secondary is located in the outer embodiment of Coil, or on top of Primary. So, my best recommend is to wire first your secondary right next to coil core, then the Primary above it.



So, No Ian...it is the "other way around"...Secondary FIRST, then Primary to be at the Outer Coil Embodiment.

And just forget about Option Two (2)...like Dana said...it kills, cancel EM Field between them, big ZERO, no matter how you've wound the coil...And the Magnetic Field is what We should care the most here!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

G'Day UFO

I have only 12 strands
I have configured my coil as from outside strands inward Option 1
The resistances are inseries
1 to 5 = 1.08 Ohms
1 to 6 = 1.26 Ohms
1 to 7 = 1.42 Ohms

I can have probably outer coil =1.42 Ohms and secondary probably 1.08 Ohms( I didnot connect secondary yet)
Or
2 Primary coils only as 1 to 6 above in parallel probably1.6 Ohms in total
Please what do you advise


Regards Kogs

[Ufopolitics]

Primary

G'Day UFO

I have only 12 strands
I have configured my coil as from outside strands inward Option 1
The resistances are inseries
1 to 5 = 1.08 Ohms
1 to 6 = 1.26 Ohms
1 to 7 = 1.42 Ohms

I can have probably outer coil =1.42 Ohms and secondary probably 1.08 Ohms( I didnot connect secondary yet)
Or
2 Primary coils only as 1 to 6 above in parallel probably1.6 Ohms in total
Please what do you advise
[IMG][/IMG]
Regards Kogs

Kogs,

Parallel Multifilar Primary works best. But RECHECK RESISTANCE TO BE SURE ABOVE 1 OHM!!

Anyways, do not worry too much except to be above 1 ohm , (I can tell you are worrying too much.. ) like I told you before, you have bolted connectors that could be very easily connect-reconnect...so make tests on different ways...draw your conclusions on best approach/outputs...write them down and share them here so the rest could learn also...

I forgot to tell you... that as long as wires ares together and not divided by a heavy insulator or core...the secondary could be sandwiched or above primary, or even mixed with...I was referring before to isolated secondaries by a core...so do not pay too much attention on rewinding it again to get secondary all the way inside the core...it will work also..sorry about it...I got confused there...but still prevails same laws...Radiant induces best from Outside-In.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

Kogs Coil

G'Day UFO

I have only 12 strands
I have configured my coil as from outside strands inward Option 1
The resistances are inseries
1 to 5 = 1.08 Ohms
1 to 6 = 1.26 Ohms
1 to 7 = 1.42 Ohms

I can have probably outer coil =1.42 Ohms and secondary probably 1.08 Ohms( I didnot connect secondary yet)
Or
2 Primary coils only as 1 to 6 above in parallel probably1.26 Ohms in total
Please what do you advise
[IMG][/IMG]
Regards Kogs

Also all my next coils will be wound contiguausly not as single strands

[larryross]

Hello all

I consider this explanation as very important, not only for this coil app, but also for winding Motors Generators in my future Thread.

Below I uploaded same pics as Ian Koglin, both options, reflecting the way magnetic fields will project in each coil...


Option Two: Total Electro Magnetic Field strength=N1+N3-N2,

meaning N1-N2=0

Therefore Total EMF=Just N3 Coil

Option Three:Total EM Field strength= N1+N2+N3



Regards

Ufopolitics

Hi UFO
Hope this isn't too far off topic, but I want to start getting things rounded up for my coil. In a post some time ago you were talking about using carbon fiber as winding instead of copper. If that is true than I can get what is called carbon tow it is way cheaper than magnetic wire and you got me all excited when you talked about how good it would be for radiant. I have figured a simple way to insulate it while winding. The one problem I can see is that the electrical resistance of it is 13 miliohms per foot so it will take many winds to get to 1 ohm or can the secondary be less than 1 ohm. I do plan to use magnet wire for the primary coil. What are your thoughts on this?

Regards
Larry

[prochiro]

Pwm

JohnStone
In the pmw circuit with multiple fets you stated that unit D should be duplicated for each fet. My question is--- if I am using unit E also, should this duplication be with both D and E or just E next to the fets. This is a good control from 8Hz up to anywhere you want to go.
Dana

[prochiro]

Carbon

Larry
Bob and I have been working on carbon for some time and recomend that you wait untill we get some results which all can use. You can work on it also but as of now, this topic need much work befor putting in any system. Just use traditional coil for now is my recommendation.
Dana

[larryross]

Larry
Bob and I have been working on carbon for some time and recomend that you wait untill we get some results which all can use. You can work on it also but as of now, this topic need much work befor putting in any system. Just use traditional coil for now is my recommendation.
Dana

Hi Dana
What have you and Bob done so far?

And what schematic are you referring to above with unit D and so on?

Regards
Larry

[Ufopolitics]

Carbon Fiber

Hi UFO
Hope this isn't too far off topic, but I want to start getting things rounded up for my coil. In a post some time ago you were talking about using carbon fiber as winding instead of copper. If that is true than I can get what is called carbon tow it is way cheaper than magnetic wire and you got me all excited when you talked about how good it would be for radiant. I have figured a simple way to insulate it while winding. The one problem I can see is that the electrical resistance of it is 13 miliohms per foot so it will take many winds to get to 1 ohm or can the secondary be less than 1 ohm. I do plan to use magnet wire for the primary coil. What are your thoughts on this?

Regards
Larry

Hello Larry,

Carbon Fiber have incredible attributes for Radiant, but, as Dana said it is something unknown so far, If you go back to conversation between Bob French and I about it, will find out Bob have same Carbon Fiber Tow...and He is still trying to get it wound and insulated...
So I recommend to keep to the same old magnetic wire as primary for now...and IF to use it, do it for secondary only. since this is your first test.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

Fet driver

Larry
The circuit is a fet driver with booster presintes by John Stone in post #841.
The only way to know about these things is to build and compare results. So far I have full control of everything in a rock solit setup up to 24 volts.
Dana

[JohnStone]

JohnStone
In the pmw circuit with multiple fets you stated that unit D should be duplicated for each fet. My question is--- if I am using unit E also, should this duplication be with both D and E or just E next to the fets. This is a good control from 8Hz up to anywhere you want to go.
Dana

I will redraw my schematic conforming the hints below in order to clarify the matter. But read these hints before.
1.
There is all about switching FETs fast. First it is good in order to keep them cool.
Second I learned that it is important in OU matters to switch fast. It is the suddenness of switching action that stirrs the vacuum.
I will explain the effects below and tell you then what to obey first.

2. A FET owns a gate capacitance of about 1 nF. The faster it can be charged / discharged the faster the FET will switch (and stay cool). We talk here not of ms but of µs or much less. So do not apply your "DC-feeling" and "DC-expertise" in order to evaluate the facts.

3. Professional FET drivers will source and sink about 1...5 Amps for minute slices of time. I do not urge you to drive so hard but keep in mind that we do not have CMOS like weak signals here. Of course we get a FET switched on with weak signals but the intermediate time can be disastrous.

3. What determines the speed of charge / discharge for the gate capacitance?
a) Length of wire from driver to gate or gates = inductance (1m => 0.05µH) Apart from differnt delays if differnt length the inductance can initate HF oscillations and thus repetetive ON/OFF/ON/OF switching actions. The result might be burned FETS and lag of OU activities.

b)Drive capability of the driver itself and the capability to get current out of its power lines. It is essential to have capacitors (10µF + 100nF) minimum attachted DIRECTLY to the driver VCC/GND.

c) Resistance of the wire GATE/GND - between FET and driver. The charges need to travel as fast as possible from teh pwer capacitor of the driver to the FET. Don't calculate - help the charges to be be fast!


4. Now most of you are not blessed with plenty of high end measurement utilities and you will build your setups mostly blind regarding HF matters. So consider some milestons detected in the foggy environment and follow them.

• You may drive your FET with a LM358 . You may decide to use LM324 in order to get a quad drive. Remember the switch off action is more essential and you will get a drive of 4x16mA minimum.
  You might decide to use a NE555 as driver device only (200mA)
• Keep wires SHORT between driver output and FET gate including GND. It is no prblem if you have some distance between generator and driver(s)
• Keep GND line thick between FETS and your driver(s) and generator.
• It is best to double the LM358 in parallel.
• If you use multiple FETs in parallel please take in account that you slow the switching time with the same factor.
• Multiple FETs might do worse than a single one because they have now desastrous switching property starving on drive current at their gate.

In summary:

• Start with one generator being a unit for itself - and- one separated driving unit built out of driver (including caps for power) and one FET being all placed close together. This will be a reliable setup.
• Try multiple FETs on that driver and be careful not to burn FETs being possibly poor driven. Keep the wires from driver to gate (including GND) all the same lenth. This might be no reliable setup.
• Duplicate the driver unit (driver, caps, FET) several times and drive them by your singel generator. This will be a reliable setup being scalable with known properties.
  Check the maximum driving capability of your signal generator output by calculation.

Hi prochiro!
As you now crowled up to this place: YES it will be advisable to do so! Thus you provide a reliable and scalable set of building stones being testable separated as well!!!!!
I do not claim that other methods will fail but I advise for prdictable and repairable setups.
If you have a working setup - DO NOT CHANGE it - but merely build a new one with separated building blocks as advised above.

[boguslaw]

JohnStone

Can a FET driver like TC4420 be powered by using LM7812 voltage stabilizer (1Amp rated) ? I don't understand what is stated in documentation. They say TC4420 need just 10uA of power but in other side can provide up to 6amps of power pulse to open FET gates. Is that true ? I need to drive two IRFN450 FET's in parallel.

[kEhYo77]

@Bogusław

Yes this voltage regulator will be enough. High current supply is required for very high frequency switching and when there are parallel MOSFETs connected to the driver. Just put big enough capacitor as a buffer after the voltage regulator.

Pozdrawiam
Piotr

[JohnStone]

JohnStone

Can a FET driver like TC4420 be powered by using LM7812 voltage stabilizer (1Amp rated) ? I don't understand what is stated in documentation. They say TC4420 need just 10uA of power but in other side can provide up to 6amps of power pulse to open FET gates. Is that true ? I need to drive two IRFN450 FET's in parallel.

It is quite simple:
The high amps is necessary for very short time of about 1µs or similar. This current can be sourced out of an INDIVIDUAL !!!! capacitor bank (10µF, 100nF ...) at the power pins of the driver. Any regulator will see the average amperage only - negelctable.
Imagine a hammer of 1/2 pound being able to generate 8 tons of force for short time and YOU are able to perform it with your tool but you experience the average effort impact only. You do not need to be a bulldozer
Nevertheless the wiring needs to be set up for HF and AMPS.

[prochiro]

Booster section

John Stone
I was reading your posts and can see that more exact off and on is important. What I was also wondering is in section E(Booster section), the PNP/NPN pair should also keep pace with the HF fets. Is there any need to select this pair in any way special. Do you have a favorite pair that is maybe more durable or better than any other for this job? I believe that the PNP in the second section does not need to be anything special. Am I correct? Thank You for your help in this area. Dana

PS You mentioned that this can be placed on a 2x2 or 2x4 board. I must be getting old as I required more board surface than that. Bad eyes, shaking hands, you know- things like that.

[prochiro]

Caps

John Stone
The caps you mentioned to be placed at the power pins of the driver should be placed how, befor after or between? Also how large a bank for example 1,2,3,4 caps?Dana