My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Ufopolitics]

The water test was to show you how silly it was to put a bulb in water and expect to prove anything. Water is not conductive and if the current has a quicker root to ground, thats the way it will go. So you should measure the resistance the water at a given distance then measure the total resistance of the bulb, you find out the bulb is a quicker path to ground.

In one of your earlier videos you jumped a bit when you got to close to one of the leads.
A CFL is not a good test. I have seen many oscillating circuits that light CFL's. An incandescent would be something.

Now as far as the shock goes, that look good. Normal current, and high frequency current will penetrate. Your muscles will want to twitch. A cold current will just run the surface so you'll feel it and its not comfortable but do not need to pull away. I'll leave that up to you to tell us how it felt.

I am still interested in the current, and how much shows up at the load, also a scope shot would be nice. One of your previous videos has a scope present but I am not sure that was the waveform or not.

Thanks for coming around.
Matt

Matt,

That video was to "Show Off", to attract viewers into the channel, must people are not knowledgeable of High Frequency-High Volts Low Amps...They compare with 120V AC 60 Hz, High Amperage(20-30A), and that they know it will shock you and(or) kill you, if you get your hands on water like I did .
So, let's get my previous video before coming here, behind, and then move forward. So it is clear I was not trying to use that video to impress you...or others here.

Now:

I am still interested in the current, and how much shows up at the load, also a scope shot would be nice. One of your previous videos has a scope present but I am not sure that was the waveform or not.

Yes I do have a DSO RIGOL 50MHz there, and yes the signal is what am getting, did you noticed how it deflects, and I adjust it?...however I was pulsing with another type of wave signal I was trying, which is just a Dual P and N Channel in Anti-phase, and that I was planning to disclose after we get this issues resolved with the simple N-Chanel (like the one on video) and in my diagrams here, I like to go from simple to complicated approaches...I do not like to start with a circuit full of components, then start explaining each by each and confusing everyone...so, yes it is the right signal, but Dual, both channels.

"how much shows up at the load...Shows what?...Voltage, Amperage, Frequency?
Ok the Scope showing waves...that is clear, however...Why don't you do something to help me here, here is the model number of DSO[DS1052E/ 2CH 50 MHz 1GSa/s] , go online check manual and tell me the exact set up you want on it...I think that's a better way.

Now as far as the shock goes, that look good. Normal current, and high frequency current will penetrate. Your muscles will want to twitch. A cold current will just run the surface so you'll feel it and its not comfortable but do not need to pull away. I'll leave that up to you to tell us how it felt.

I have told you before, kind of numb, and a very light tingling or cramp feeling, but no big deal.
However, if I turn on the Volume to almost blow bulb at very High Voltages...then I feel it more, but same sensation..in the video it actually did not shock me...but got me by surprise...it never did it before..but then I realized it does it in greater scale when both hands were in water at same time..
I am just guessing that I was being "bridged" by her, through both arms. But it was a bit higher than this one because I was lighting up at Higher frequency...and I have notice it increases when I turn in the neon blue lamps I installed for viewing meters better in videos, and also looked nicer...

Now there is something I just found out...when converting this videos and make me go back and stretch them in that particular frames...it is something weird.

After I turned off the light, right after there is a green pulse, just one(frame) so play back normal barely see it, but I kept stretching...and also by seq of 4-5 pictures...I noticed, and it is clear at slow motion...Before the green flash shows, I can see my cam capture a Spectrum of violet light, like a light cloud...around where coil and lamp are...but seems moving toward center, this is 1-2 frames,and as soon as is gone the green light strobe comes...this happens so synchronized, that have to go really slow...but in this video, if using a good editor, could be also done. I am uploading this also...but is longer...so takes time.

Any way, am glad You 'like' my Radiant Now'...

Regards

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi ufo, ah ok, i kind of guessed you were using a 555 timer, i have that, could you give any frequencies or pulse widths you are using and possible coil details, thanks.
oh is this the green effect you are speaking of.


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peace love light
tyson

[ewizard]

Ufopolitics, I'm glad you came back. If you haven't been on energy forums for many years like some people here you probably haven't seen some of what has gone down here and other places. And this may help you understand why some things seem a little less than polite at times. There have been hundreds of people show up here and other forums out of the blue that say or think they have a free energy device or overunity device. Some have been outright fakes, some have been incorrect measurements and some have been just plain crazy stuff. Some have probably been done by the PTB to discourage everyone.

I think most everyone here is hoping to find a source of energy to power their homes or cars or even a small appliance. So after so many disappointments, disillusion and outright trickery there tends to be a somewhat skeptical nature when someone shows up that no one knows. We all just want to know how it works and believe that it really is the thing we have all been wanting. So many will ask questions and even find facts presented hard to believe and more questions will be asked. Just like UFO's. I firmly believe some are real ET presences but when I have had personal contact with people who say they saw one or were abducted by one I ask a lot of questions to rule out all the things that might fool some one into thinking they saw a real alien craft. That is to say I want to rule out all the things that might trick people so that I will know they saw the real thing and so I will feel I have further proof of their existence.

Matt on here is a great builder and experimenter. He's been around the block more than once So I believe he may be asking the more difficult questions with some healthy skepticism so that others here with less knowledge and experience don't get fooled again. I can't really speak for him but it's just my guess that may be part of the nature of the questions.

Many years ago I once was helping a well known researcher set up a radiant energy demo at an energy conference. The demo had a clear glass tungsten light bulb as a load (about 60 watts IIRC). When it was lit up he had me put a jumper wire directly across the contacts to the bulb. In normal circumstances that would of course cause the light to go out or go very dim. In this case though it became a lot brighter. I was told that it was because it was being powered by radiant or cold electricity. Have you ever seen this effect with your setup?

[Ufopolitics]

Radiant Energy Ultraviolet Spectrum above Coil

RADIANT_ ENERGY_ULTRAVIOLET_SPECTRUM_GREEN_STROBE - YouTube

This is a sequence I noticed when converting formats on video today...

In this video is shown clearly, the Collapsing Radiant Energy Field, seen as an opaque transparent cloud, right above the Electromagnetic Field Radiation Vortex Generated by the Coil, it appears for just one frame, rated at a speed of approximately 30 Fps...In the following frame of this capture, a Strobe Flash of a light green color shows right at center of Light Bulb Spiral, and it also last for one frame of the sequenced images.
I had to stretch it to the Maximum limits of software in order to be seen accordingly.

Thanks

Ufopolitics

[Farmhand]

Hello Farmhand,

I am going to get back to you here, just because you had changed your approach to me in this last post.

1- I am not here to clear up 'definitions' that we all could find out by accessing the net . I see it as a waste of your time and mine.
2- I am not trying to educate anyone here, I am just expressing my Disclosure here, on my post that I had built for those particular purposes.
3- Your Question:
Answer: Your question does not seems to be complete to me, or I just do not understand it, I have mentioned [collapsing magnetic field] many times here, please cite specifically with quote marks my entire statement you are referring to.

Thanks

Hi ufopolitics, Never mind, it's ok. I would have thought that being a
somewhat scientific field we are engaged in the best way to present things
would be to show something then say, look at this, this is what I've done this
is what I think, this is why and what do you guys think. Then as well, if
people ask some valid questions they could be answered.

Your initial post is almost one big block of confusing text. To tell the truth I
am still not sure what it is you are actually trying to say in that first post.

Just coming along and declaring this and that is all well and good, and if you
want to just avoid any questions you don't want to answer then fair enough.

The questions I asked were fairly simple and worded well enough. Refusing to
answer a couple of questions is offensive enough to me to not want to post
anymore in the thread anyway.

Have fun not answering any questions.

If you don't want to clear up the definitions of the terms you use then I can
only assume you don't want people to understand what you are doing. To tell
the truth I am still not sure what it is you are actually saying you can do or
are doing. Fair enough. I can live with that.

Cheers.

[Turion]

Ufopolitics,

Great to see you here. I was worried you would not come back. If I might make a suggestion. If you will give us all something to build. Be as specific as you can about what it is we are to build. If it needs a coil, how many turns of what kind of wire, what diodes, etc. You have a LOT of new people here who would love to build, but really are lost. Especially since your first posted diagrams have disappeared, and you indicated that there was something incorrect in them anyway. If it is the circuit at post #20 that we should build (Which Vtech was kind enough to update) just say the word. BUT if it IS...
1.The easiest thing for EVERYBODY is to number the parts on that drawing and then give the information or specs for each part. Then people can figure out what they are doing.
2. There are obvious things missing from that drawing. How do we supply power to it? Just a standard 12 volt battery, or with a frequency generator set at some specific frequency? I know you mentioned a 555 timer somewhere in the postings. Dd we need one? If so, how is it connected into the circuit? It has 8 pins. Which one do we connect what to? And what will we use it for. (I know the answer to some of these questions, so I hope you understand what I am trying to do here, besides sound like I know noting about anything.)
3. What are we to look FOR when we have the circuit up and running. In other words, what test do we run to determine if we have it correct?

The more simplistic the task you assign us, the less confusion and the fewer questions that will waste your time. Then we can move rapidly forward to wherever it is you want to take us. But let's get a bunch of people with the basic circuit completed on their bench. Then a BUNCH of people will be able to answer the basic questions that come up instead of only you, and you having to respond to each new person that comes aboard. I hope that makes some kind of sense. When I first came here I did not know a resistor from a transistor, and I KNOW there are other people here who are in that same boat, but who would LOVE to build something if they could see how to do it. If you build it step by step and video it, you answer ALL those questions and many more.

David

[Ufopolitics]

Oscillator 555Single N-Channel Diagram



PLEASE NOTE MISSING LINE BETWEEN D3 AND 12 V MOVISTOR!!...IT GOES TO GROUND

I will be posting here a relation of Components values soon, see if you could zoom and see in Pic Ok.

COIL 1: Coil I used in the latest video, is a solid steel core, @3 Inches in Diameter.
I wrapped 120 T of Gauge 18 X 3 Layers (I winded this way for purposes of Lab work), to test Inductance between them and best options as Primary-Secondary as Input.

COIL 2: Guys, don't sweat over the Coil as of yet, My best experiment was with a Plastic new Roll of Coil from Factory 16 Gauge just adding diodes at ends.
Actually that was the best test to prove Opposed Magnetic field (Radiant) was higher strength than Original, when it turned the Rare Earth Magnet.
Remember, you have a Dialer to tune your right frequency,so it is adjustable to your coil, of course use common sense and calculate Resistance, Volts and Amps...according to Input .

My Input: Lithium Polymers Pack of 3 X 11. 6 aprox= Fully charged to 36V
2100 MiliAmps Each X3 =6.3A

[Bob Smith]

Very Glad to See this Thread

Hi UFO
I'm very glad to see this thread -really looking forward to seeing more of your work and trying a few things when I can.
Bob

[Rl2003]

Circuit

ufopolitics,

Thanks for the circuit, nicely laid out and mostly clear.
I was able to see most of the compontents but D1-D3 look like 4005 not sure
but also could be 4007 which is more common. Also there are two C3's one is
1uf and the second is 0.01 Tantalum cap.

I did a coil calculation on the first coil with 18 awg. at 3 inch's in dia. and 1.7
long came out as, 3 layers@120 turns 40 turns per layer 3.25 outside dia.
and 96.81 feet long. 3 inch Dia. thats a good size chunk of steel.

I though I was close to something simalar I had been working on, so I wanted to try the water test.
No luck, my bulb stayed lit, but very dimly. I did not try the finger test. yet.

Mark P

[Ufopolitics]

Hi UFO
I'm very glad to see this thread -really looking forward to seeing more of your work and trying a few things when I can.
Bob

Hey Bob thanks,

I am trying my best to perform in a timely basis...
Will like you to give it a try..I believe it is a very easy circuit to start with, simple and it does the job...later we could add a lot of enhancements to it...it needs it!!

Regards

Ufopolitics

[ewizard]

Thanks for posting the very detailed and well illustrated circuit Ufopolitics. I can read all the components easily enough and I am familiar enough with all the components (and even have most) but I have a question that maybe even some one else can answer as I'm not really up to speed on some of this. I see the input is 36 volts from your Li-Poly's (roughly 225 watts available when fully charged?) but I can't tell where the output is to be taken from. Are the Drains from all the Mosfets tied together on the chassis which then has a single wire coming off of it as shown in brown on the upper right side of the picture? Maybe I've answered my own question if that's the output? I'm assuming the spot marked +12V is just a reference that the LM317 voltage regulator is set to output 12 volts?

[Ufopolitics]

ufopolitics,

Thanks for the circuit, nicely laid out and mostly clear.
I was able to see most of the compontents but D1-D3 look like 4005 not sure
but also could be 4007 which is more common. Also there are two C3's one is
1uf and the second is 0.01 Tantalum cap.

I did a coil calculation on the first coil with 18 awg. at 3 inch's in dia. and 1.7
long came out as, 3 layers@120 turns 40 turns per layer 3.25 outside dia.
and 96.81 feet long. 3 inch Dia. thats a good size chunk of steel.

I though I was close to something simalar I had been working on, so I wanted to try the water test.
No luck, my bulb stayed lit, but very dimly. I did not try the finger test. yet.

Mark P

Hey Mark,

What Bulb are U using?

D1,D2,D3 ARE 4005, However MUST FAMILY OF 4000 will do the job, typical gate diodes.
Now the ones between legs of 555> 7,6 and 5 are 4148, they are signal diodes...germanium I believe.
Now there is a 12 Volt Movistor parallel to D3, for protection.

OH SHUT!!...Just saw a line missing right there!!from D3 and Movistor should go to Ground!!...it is not doing nothing like that!!

Sorry because I do not have completed the part list, there I explain better...
The 1 uF, you could also use a 0.01 and see what happens related to wave

Be back

[Ufopolitics]

PLEASE TAKE A LOOK AT LINE MISSING IN BETWEEN D3 and 12 V MOVISTOR
IT SHOULD GO TO GROUND!!

D3 and MOVISTOR are in parallel, so their back common end line should go Negative!!

Sorry about that!

[Rl2003]

ufo,
I was using a Feit BPA15/CL/LED 120v bulb, but I also have some Helical 20w
simailar to what you are using. I may try them tomorrow, I dont think that my
freq.s are high enough for RE yet, but I did put the scope on it and have some nice looking waves.
Ive closed up shop for the night, but I will dig out my freq. counter and see
a little better of what's going on. I have all the components to put your circuit together but not the VR 250K??
Not sure what voltage reg. that is?
Were your transistors bias matched?
Mark P.

[Rl2003]

Ufo,
Like this...
Mark P