My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[ewizard]

ufo,
I was using a Feit BPA15/CL/LED 120v bulb, but I also have some Helical 20w
simailar to what you are using. I may try them tomorrow, I dont think that my
freq.s are high enough for RE yet, but I did put the scope on it and have some nice looking waves.
Ive closed up shop for the night, but I will dig out my freq. counter and see
a little better of what's going on. I have all the components to put your circuit together but not the VR 250K??
Not sure what voltage reg. that is?
Were your transistors bias matched?
Mark P.

I might be wrong but I was assuming the VR250k is a variable resistor or center tapped POT of 250k.

I think the circuit you drew is what he intended although I would have probably drawn it like this

[Rl2003]

I might be wrong but I was assuming the VR250k is a variable resistor or center tapped POT of 250k.

I think the circuit you drew is what he intended although I would have probably drawn it like this

Yes, You may be right there mate, I think he did mention variable res.

As far as the circuit, that works just as well, but I may run this thru the
CNC machine and I wont be cutting over existing traces..

Mark P

[Rl2003]

SKIN_EFFECT_RADIANT_ENERGY_COLD_ELECTRICITY - YouTube

Now this video has been edited as "Unlisted", meaning only those with this link could see it...that is -of course- after you pay the amount established...:0

Ufopolitics,
I am not sure but the coil you have in this video "post #89" is fairly small, compaired
to the description of the coil you mentioned yesterday.

COIL 1: Coil I used in the latest video, is a solid steel core, @3 Inches in Diameter.

I want to get this replication as close to yours as I can, because if I get it
wrong it may not react the same as your set up.
Mark P

[djex81]

Yes, You may be right there mate, I think he did mention variable res.

I think that may be the pot that we see towards the end of this video he posted earlier. Have a close look towards the end as he shows the circuitry.

SKIN_EFFECT_RADIANT_ENERGY_COLD_ELECTRICITY - YouTube

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks for posting the very detailed and well illustrated circuit Ufopolitics. I can read all the components easily enough and I am familiar enough with all the components (and even have most) but I have a question that maybe even some one else can answer as I'm not really up to speed on some of this. I see the input is 36 volts from your Li-Poly's (roughly 225 watts available when fully charged?) but I can't tell where the output is to be taken from. Are the Drains from all the Mosfets tied together on the chassis which then has a single wire coming off of it as shown in brown on the upper right side of the picture? Maybe I've answered my own question if that's the output? I'm assuming the spot marked +12V is just a reference that the LM317 voltage regulator is set to output 12 volts?

Good morning EWIZARD!

First, I wanted to thank you for Your very kind previous message, I could feel your warmth and your joy!
While I understand everything you explained, and also agree with you completely...
Related to the circuit on Osc:
Yes, I would say not practically...but exactly! you had answer that question.
The Heat Sink attached to the body of MOSFETS, I add later a Copper bar for drain Connector. I cut the center legs off the Mosfets.

I used an Aluminum channel as sink-chassis-Drain Out (posting some pic's here of oscillator opened) that I drill holes then make the thread for bolts to hold the MOSFET's..

Yes the 12V is exactly that, a reference to show my regulated Input to 555
Nice talking to you!
Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Yes, You may be right there mate, I think he did mention variable res.

As far as the circuit, that works just as well, but I may run this thru the
CNC machine and I wont be cutting over existing traces..

Mark P

Yes it is a Centered tap Potentiometer

[Ufopolitics]

Ufopolitics,
I am not sure but the coil you have in this video "post #89" is fairly small, compaired
to the description of the coil you mentioned yesterday.

COIL 1: Coil I used in the latest video, is a solid steel core, @3 Inches in Diameter.

I want to get this replication as close to yours as I can, because if I get it
wrong it may not react the same as your set up.
Mark P

Hey R12003!!

Yes, it is somewhere around 2.0 Inches in real core (where wire goes on)
I was lead measuring by mind, and the upper part...You know the saying...the Males tend to increase the size by a couple of inches...

It is actually a Dolly (That's what its called) used by Body men, called also tack of steel, to back metal when straightening with hammer..
Like I said before, the core could vary, you could adjust the output to it and it will fill the wires..to the point of starting creating the 'invoke' of RE.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi ufo, thanks for sharing more information.
Body dollie like from this think in lower left corner of picture, i read these are made from special alloys.
Panel Beating Set 7pc Drop-Forged - Panel & Trim Tools Bodyshop Tools
Have you ever tried ferrite cores or do you think solid steel is better.
I know Robert Adams at some point mentioned solid iron cores were his preferred choice for cold current, i think.
peace love light
tyson

[Ufopolitics]

Hi ufopolitics, Never mind, it's ok. I would have thought that being a
somewhat scientific field we are engaged in the best way to present things
would be to show something then say, look at this, this is what I've done this
is what I think, this is why and what do you guys think. Then as well, if
people ask some valid questions they could be answered.

Your initial post is almost one big block of confusing text. To tell the truth I
am still not sure what it is you are actually trying to say in that first post.

Just coming along and declaring this and that is all well and good, and if you
want to just avoid any questions you don't want to answer then fair enough.

The questions I asked were fairly simple and worded well enough. Refusing to
answer a couple of questions is offensive enough to me to not want to post
anymore in the thread anyway.

Have fun not answering any questions.

If you don't want to clear up the definitions of the terms you use then I can
only assume you don't want people to understand what you are doing. To tell
the truth I am still not sure what it is you are actually saying you can do or
are doing. Fair enough. I can live with that.

Cheers.

Hello Farmhand!

I understand you completely, and I agree with you, My approach in my first post was too long, and I did not use an organized manner to display all this info, that has come to me as a rush, downloaded in a very brief term of time, while I was involved in a different field of dynamo-electric machines.

I tried in my first post to best describe , first, about myself a bit, what I have been involved for the past years, so you guys could know about me...Then You are right , I tried rushing all my desires and my findings to openly explain about something that, up to this point, I do not understand it completely, however, I have gathered together tons of alternative related literature...I did wrote a big block of text, and mentioning about motors-generators and behaviors was a confusing issue to get to the point where I wanted to reach.

At this point I have abandoned completely my motors-generator project, just to dedicate the time and attention that my discovery requires, and trying my best to deliver as clear as possible to others so they could try to replicate my set-up properly.

It will give me A great satisfaction to hear at least from one of you, that He had tried, and it works wonderful!

And I want you to understand that, the same urge you guys have trying to find answers to things that you do not understand..and that you have been searching for a while long, I have also same desires to download to you all my findings and my conclusions in great detail..

And in the same way that you will find joy by finding out it works great and that , yes, we got it...
I will also will find a great release , that I have been able to fulfill my task, my duty, by channeling properly all I have found, researched and develop to all of you.

I could relate as the relation between Source-Drain in Electronics...Give, Provide, Source and ...in the other end of the conductor...that could be thousands of miles away...a right Absorb, a proper Consumption, an accurate Sink had taken place...Then We All could then start analyzing this Phenomena all together, or may be by Groups aligned at different points of our planet...discerning every single behavior as everyone, I know, will be trying his best to achieve.


This discovery is deeply controversial, it defies the laws and behaviors that we all had been thought for generations, over a long period of time, so I understand it is very difficult to 'see' beyond the limitations we have acquired for so long.

I could take easy, a very long series of pages, in order to fully disclose to all of you here, how, I got here...- and that is, only from "the technical side of the Coin"-...It was a long road traveling by walking slowly....that took me years of long days and long nights, and when I finally landed to see what "it was"...I could not do nothing else but laugh...laugh to myself...deep inside, while my mind was traveling so fast over all the flashes in our history...all the articles and books I have read, all videos I have seen...all the pain we have had for so long trying to thrive...then I stop laughing...then I felt a very deep sadness inside my heart.

But , Now, WE, better than never before, must get all together on this...and help each others , to create such a rush, such a force....that no one on this Universe could stop.






Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hi folks, Hi ufo, thanks for sharing more information.
Body dollie like from this think in lower left corner of picture, i read these are made from special alloys.
Panel Beating Set 7pc Drop-Forged - Panel & Trim Tools Bodyshop Tools
Have you ever tried ferrite cores or do you think solid steel is better.
I know Robert Adams at some point mentioned solid iron cores were his preferred choice for cold current, i think.
peace love light
tyson

Hello Skywatcher!!

You surprised me with that Bulb in green picture...at first I said..."This looks awfully like my set-up!...but I don't recall taking that picture?..

Don't "sweat" over the Core, the Steel Core like this, works, but then later on, I found it works better on just a new, ten pounds, unpacked wire spool 16 Gauge made of plastic...with this same set up and circuits.

I have observed , since the constant and so fast changes in Flux directions,(on longer times of operation) it creates somehow an increase in the temperature of the steel core, however, not in the wire. That leads me to think that over time, the steel molecules suffer great stress, getting the metal in somehow a "fatigue"...therefore this solid chunk of steel works fairly good over time, since it weights pretty good, so it is not a piece of cake to "disturb it.. .

My first test, I did it, in an empty rotor core of a 12 pole laminated steel from a 12V Gas Pump small motor, however, winding it not like motors go...but in a way that the coil keeps same centered direction.

I am in the process of creating, first on 3D Model, then in Real Model, a pretty good type of structure that best fits the requirements of this type of Systems.

To my concepts, it would be better if there is a Hollow center. (Air Core) And the Center Core Material, Where Main Coil wire goes, being of some sort of strong plastic, Mica or composite, that attaches to a Heat Sink piece within. In a Cylindrical shape.
Further On, I believe we need to offer a good steel path for the Flux to travel outside this center core...on both Poles, North-South, where the Magnetic Fields Radiates its Spectrum. and it doesn't need to be of any solid structure...but just made of fine strong lines defining North-South Field-Lines configuring a similar form of a Toroid Volume.

Anyways...my desires to communicate with you are so big...that I go beyond your question-doubts-concerns...and may end by confusing you even more...so, for now..just don't sweat over the Core.

Thanks

Ufopolitics

[blackchisel97]

It is nice to see this thread rolling again...

Hello Ufopolitics & All,
Due to some issues I couldn't participate in the past day but I managed to learn a bit about Mosfet and have this first circuit redone with proper diodes and N channel Mosfet. I could not find thicker wire yet (I'm not fully unpacked after last moving) but I tried one component salvaged from some state of the art power control unit which I got from scrap yard couple years ago. It consist of three toroid chokes in series, wound with #14 wire. I believe that cores are made from iron powder (they're black).
I got 9W light going right away and I was able to further reduce input A by raising a bit frequency. I got down to 160mA at 12V. The only warm spot is the base of CFL, while transistor remains cold (no heatsink). I had few ideas about different oscillators before I saw one posted by Ufopolitics which looks just fine
I'll try to find the rest of required parts. For now I just use variable signal generator as a trigger.

Ufopolitics,I'm glad you have decided to come back.

I also updated last schematics so the copper traces are not crossing. Otherwise, one would have to make a jumper. Hope you don't mind.



Thanks
Vtech

[Ufopolitics]

Resistor On Load Tests 1 & 2

RADIANT ENERGY/COLD ELECTRICITY RESISTANCE TEST 1 & 2 - YouTube

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi ufo, thanks for sharing the latest video.
I'm using an air-core right now anyway, so not concerned about cores yet.
Though I do notice that when i try and power a cfl like you are showing with a 555 timer, 24 volts and my 5 strand coil using 2 transistors, 2 - 24awg. strands per transistor, using the diodes on both coil legs, that it takes much tuning to get the coil resonate or vibrate properly with the cfl inside circuitry.
What happens when using the 555 timer, the neons across my transistors glow fairly brightly.
Though when I use a joule thief variant circuit with my 5 strand coil, 24 volts input, the neons are not lit at all and the cfl is very bright and the transistors stay cool.
My guess is, the joule thief variant circuit is automatically matching its vibration to the cfl circuitry for best performance.
Just offering my experimental observation comparing the different pulsing methods.
peace love light
tyson

[Ufopolitics]

Hi folks, Hi ufo, thanks for sharing the latest video.
I'm using an air-core right now anyway, so not concerned about cores yet.
Though I do notice that when i try and power a cfl like you are showing with a 555 timer, 24 volts and my 5 strand coil using 2 transistors, 2 - 24awg. strands per transistor, using the diodes on both coil legs, that it takes much tuning to get the coil resonate or vibrate properly with the cfl inside circuitry.
What happens when using the 555 timer, the neons across my transistors glow fairly brightly.
Though when I use a joule thief variant circuit with my 5 strand coil, 24 volts input, the neons are not lit at all and the cfl is very bright and the transistors stay cool.
My guess is, the joule thief variant circuit is automatically matching its vibration to the cfl circuitry for best performance.
Just offering my experimental observation comparing the different pulsing methods.
peace love light
tyson

Hello Skywatcher,

My pleasure,

Ok, Sky, let me see if I understand what you are saying...

"I'm using an air-core right now anyway, so not concerned about cores yet.
Though I do notice that when i try and power a cfl like you are showing with a 555 timer, 24 volts and my 5 strand coil using 2 transistors, 2 - 24awg. strands per transistor, using the diodes on both coil legs, that it takes much tuning to get the coil resonate or vibrate properly with the cfl inside circuitry. ."

I do not get it, really...because "it takes too much to tuning to get the Coil resonate"
You are changing what of my circuit?...or you are just adding a joule Thieve...without moving anything else?

When writing, please, be a bit more explicit...

Did you move the Diodes positioning at all according to my diagram, and related to the Coil?

You mentioned what had happened after you put the JT, but not describe what happened before?

Did you take any readings with my "AS IS" Original circuit at ALL?

Ok, here the point is not to start adding nor taking off anything, till you get it working fine, AND have taken measurements properly...otherwise we will be here another 185 years...

I mean Sky, just because it bothers to 'dial' a bit more...No, please don't. is Not the idea here.

I never used any joule arrangement there, my transistors run super cold...
Number one, Sky, you are using just two transistors...what specs?are they fast switchers, RDsOn?

See guys...Ok...I know what am gonna do...just write an answer post to all..


Cheers

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

To All The Members Replicating My Circuit

Hello to ALL,

Ok, I had spent hours preparing diagrams and notes and uploading photos here...
And all this effort was done in order to follow a duplication of my circuit..
And that means to build it AS IS, maybe playing a bit here or there with the tank circuit of 555, that's where you made adjustments to the square wave.

This is a simple Astable Operation of a T555, but modified a bit. So if anyone does not know about this op...there are many sites dedicated just to playing with waves, and the resonating part of 555, which is the two resistors and Pot, at legs 5,6,7...and the 001 Capacitor to ground...that's it.

If having problem with tuning...it could be the Coil was not done, either with enough turns, improper wire, etc...or something else was not ok.

So, I recommend to put in the Tank instead of the 1K resistors, replace them by two 10K Trimmers , before soldering set a mark (I do it with fine markers, of different colors) At 1K on wiper and body, so you do not get lost , also try different Cap sizes .


And I tell You why...Here, the Idea is to test FIRST, my original circuit AS IS...and The Two Diodes is the WAY I made a special diagram, very neat, nice colors to be understood well,

The main deal here, and the cause of all the arguments...is to replicate my design, that you ALL have seen working, then ...
Come back here and tell Us your readings

I want readings BEFORE TWO DIODES OF:

1-Voltage
2-Amperes
3-Hertz
4-Oscilloscope Signals Recordings

I want Readings AFTER TWO DIODES OF:

1-Voltage
2-Amperes
3-Hertz
4-Oscilloscope Signals Recordings

I want readings before Battery connected of Voltage and Mark Start Time
of Test, Then after finishing the test, mark time and take readings again.

It is very important to have at ALL TIMES Meters on this, including one at Battery Terminals, and tell you why.

If you are going Driving the Pot "Blindly" (no gauges, no readings On) and pass to a too high stage...You are gonna fry everything there...
Including the Coil...

I do not know if you read my post with Matthew here , where He told me about many of you replicating this experiment (In Your Side is an Experiment, in mine it isn't anymore)...and, That You all guys will come back here to tell me How it went...
The point is to test it and read it, then tell Us your "experiences"...

After each one has does that...then you could put even an Old Transformer on it, if you like...but not before we finish this "Stage" please!

This organized way we all come back and talk about it...

Cheers

Ufopolitics