My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[FRC]

wingstalysis

I hope Ufopolitics does not mind me posting this. Hopefully he has a better
solution for what you are after. I just wanted to suggest you check out the
three battery generating thread. The reason I say this is that I read a post
at Overunity.com where Turion had first posted the "three battery charging"
concept, and the one posting thought that this would be a good system to use
on his electric motor scooter. It may not be what you are looking for, but it
would not hurt to check it out. You would probably get some benefit from it
if you applied it properly. Or maybe Ufopolitics will have a better solution for
you if it does not meet your needs.

George

[wingstalysis]

Appreciation

Greetings, George.
I appreciate your kindness, and directions. I will get onto it right now. Take it easy,
Wings

[Ufopolitics]

Greetings, ufoplanet,
Thankyou for taking the time to post, and its a shame that you have had to deal with some unpleasantness. I realise that their are many know it all techies on here with closed minds, but also many who are quite the opposite. It would have been a great shame, and loss if you had fallen pray to the negative ones'. I have a little electronic background from the Air force and thereafter, but it is only recently I've been involved with Zero Point Energy. I personally do not care to get into how it all works beneath the surface, as its far too complicated and not necessary. No more than I need to know how to use a TV etc. I admire all who have the gift as in yourself. You started this thread off with reference to a DC motor. I would greatly appreciate if you would share information on how I can use radiant energy for the the DC motor in my Mobility Scooter so that it and the batteries give me greater range, and can be charged at the same time. Please point me in the correct direction with circuit diagrams, and parts etc. I am looking into Bidini chargers, and relay charger systems, but am looking for something I can simply build and is efficient. I wonder if you are an ET...I Am? Thanks for all you've shared, and take it easy,
Wings

Hello Wingstalysis,

Well, there is a bit of info needed in your Scooter spec's...So I could direct you to the right paths...If it is a BLDC (Brush-less DC) Motor, there is not much I could do for you...but if it is a Brushed Motor I could help you. Then I would need the Voltage-Amps supply and the type of Controller it has (Brand-Model, Voltage-Amps and C.L (Current Limiting) ratings.
I had designed and built an specific Motor for a Bosch-Badsey Scooter...used to be 24 V 33 A System, dual gel batteries...and I got to run it with 36V 6.3 A...out of a 3Pack R/C Electric Helicopter LiPo batteries...for much longer time than the heavy lead acid-gel batteries...actually you could stick this batteries in your pocket.

I used exactly the same controller I have in this post...The typical controllers are built with a Heavy 'Fire Wall' against Back EMF...that would not apply here...it will overheat something in my type of system...batteries or motor...not good.

Now, to run it with Radiant Energy if you have a brushed motor is relatively simple, all you need is a Primary-Secondary Coil of same wiring as your motor gauge...rated for your supply system (V-A). I would say that depending at the configuration of how many brushes, [if it has four or two] then you could figure out the turn ratio per contact of brushes-commutator to rotor coils, in order to build your coil accurately. Then, run the motor out of the Secondary-Primary (After Diodes) both in series of your new coil...You will get super power, the motor will run very cold to freezing levels.. and enough power to run a built in "smart new style charger" . NOT the type that have a One Ton of Steel, Transformer on it, but the light and modern switching chargers.

Actually all you have done, is to run the motor with what Physics call Back EMF, yes, "PURE Back EMF"...We took -this time- the "Parasitical" Hot Electricity out of our System...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[fathershand]

Hey Ufopolitics, I am really excited by the work that you are doing here. Please keep going!! We really need your help in cracking the cold electricity code.

Thanks for everything.
Tony

[Ufopolitics]

Hey Ufopolitics, I am really excited by the work that you are doing here. Please keep going!! We really need your help in cracking the cold electricity code.

Thanks for everything.
Tony

Hey Fathershand,

My pleasure!...Yes, eventually We will crack it...I had done it already, just waiting to hear from some guys who were doing my replications...

I have achieved incredible results...but like everything, there is always trouble, problems finding specific materials, components and equipments...Which actually tells me I am on the "Right Track"...

Now I am having trouble with the Core of a Coil am building...just because the center fine 5/8 steel core is overheating due to excessive high frequency oscillating opposite magnetic fields galore...Today I just Torch the heck out of it, to almost melt it...and submerged in cold water in order to crystallize it , to make it loose its saturation or magnetic 'memory'...will see results tonight.

The "Ideal Core" for this application would be a Nano Crystalline type of Ferromagnetic core...but no luck finding it in a near by store...

But will keep going...results as outputs are wonderful other than the heating problem. And I could add Heat sinks, or a small fan...but that is not a scientific solution...just a patch...

Thanks!

Ufopolitics

[fathershand]

Hello Wingstalysis,

...

Now, to run it with Radiant Energy if you have a brushed motor is relatively simple, all you need is a Primary-Secondary Coil of same wiring as your motor gauge...rated for your supply system (V-A). I would say that depending at the configuration of how many brushes, [if it has four or two] then you could figure out the turn ratio per contact of brushes-commutator to rotor coils, in order to build your coil accurately. Then, run the motor out of the Secondary-Primary (After Diodes) both in series of your new coil...You will get super power, the motor will run very cold to freezing levels.. and enough power to run a built in "smart new style charger" . NOT the type that have a One Ton of Steel, Transformer on it, but the light and modern switching chargers.

Actually all you have done, is to run the motor with what Physics call Back EMF, yes, "PURE Back EMF"...We took -this time- the "Parasitical" Hot Electricity out of our System...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hey Ufopolitics, would you please give a little hand drawing explaining the above . If I had that it would be easier to visualize what you are saying. I would like to build a small test motor using a car radiator fan motor as the electric motor. It's 12V, but I don't know the amount of amps it draws. I think the coil windings are 18AWG, but I'll have to look to make sure. I believe that it has two brushes.

Thanks so much!

Tony

[fathershand]

Your Steel Core

Hey Fathershand,

My pleasure!...Yes, eventually We will crack it...I had done it already, just waiting to hear from some guys who were doing my replications...

I have achieved incredible results...but like everything, there is always trouble, problems finding specific materials, components and equipments...Which actually tells me I am on the "Right Track"...

Now I am having trouble with the Core of a Coil am building...just because the center fine 5/8 steel core is overheating due to excessive high frequency oscillating opposite magnetic fields galore...Today I just Torch the heck out of it, to almost melt it...and submerged in cold water in order to crystallize it , to make it loose its saturation or magnetic 'memory'...will see results tonight.

The "Ideal Core" for this application would be a Nano Crystalline type of Ferromagnetic core...but no luck finding it in a near by store...

But will keep going...results as outputs are wonderful other than the heating problem. And I could add Heat sinks, or a small fan...but that is not a scientific solution...just a patch...

Thanks!

Ufopolitics

Regarding the coil core: I'm sure that you already know this, but maybe it's worth repeating here. The core from most transformers, i.e., E-core is made from a metal that becomes magnetic when the current is on, but does not retain its magnetism when the current is off. Maybe you could cut up an E-core to use for your coil.

Thanks for your time.
Tony

[Ufopolitics]

Hey Ufopolitics, would you please give a little hand drawing explaining the above . If I had that it would be easier to visualize what you are saying. I would like to build a small test motor using a car radiator fan motor as the electric motor. It's 12V, but I don't know the amount of amps it draws. I think the coil windings are 18AWG, but I'll have to look to make sure. I believe that it has two brushes.

Thanks so much!

Tony

Hey Fathershand...a bit better than a "Hand Drawing"...



Normally an Automotive fan motor (depending on Car Manufacturer) is made out of two brush system, basically if it comes from Japanese models, unless is a Bosch type used in some Dodge-Chrysler Caravans , then those are 4 brush.
A simple test is to set at Input of Motor a Digital meter at continuity (Diode/Beep) and rotate the shaft till you have contact, then go to Resistance Measure...that gives you an idea of the Coil, normally is low Ohms.
For safety, I will use 18 Gauge, and turn primary exceeding resistance on Motor (That's the idea)...because Coil will be running "Full Time" while rotor coils are constantly switching and 'idling' (not full time on).
This System is great...You "Accelerate' through the Coil...not directly to Motor...and Coil transforms to Cold electricity to Motor...in a running vehicle, the Coil could be set with an air scoop to enhance normal operating temp or heat sink for longer operating times... till we find the right Core Material. I have done this tests...wonderful results !

[Ufopolitics]

Regarding the coil core: I'm sure that you already know this, but maybe it's worth repeating here. The core from most transformers, i.e., E-core is made from a metal that becomes magnetic when the current is on, but does not retain its magnetism when the current is off. Maybe you could cut up an E-core to use for your coil.

Thanks for your time.
Tony

Yes, I know fathershand...'Laminated Steel' Cores, like motors, Transformers, Ignition Coils...but this goes beyond that...is not only to Kill 'Eddy Currents'...But to stand a very high pulsed Opposites Electromagnetic field swapping...
By the way...the Crystallized Steel by Heat worked out great...better than before...but still am looking for excellence...I may have to make my own cores...no sweat.

Cheers and happy testing!!

Ufopolitics

[fathershand]

Oh, ufopolitics, thank you so much for this!! I am starting to look for the components to make a test. I hope that you will have time to answer some newbie questions.

In your experience, how much drain will the battery sustain? In other words, will the battery "last" twice as long? I know that you can't give an exact answer, just give your experience, please.

Thanks you again!
Tony

[Ufopolitics]

Oh, ufopolitics, thank you so much for this!! I am starting to look for the components to make a test. I hope that you will have time to answer some newbie questions.

In your experience, how much drain will the battery sustain? In other words, will the battery "last" twice as long? I know that you can't give an exact answer, just give your experience, please.

Thanks you again!
Tony

My pleasure Fathershand,

No problems on answering questions...
Actually, the core does not have to be that specific...a solid steel tube will do...or even air core will work for this purpose.
The batteries will use "nickel and dimes"...while the Motor goes full blast and cold, really cold...and no commutator sparks either...speed galore..beyond spec's (I measured with Infrared RPM's...)
And if not using steel...no D3, D4 are needed, since Hot induction will be very poor...Milli-volts...

I am gonna make a video on this testing...

But I am working now on 'Internal' Induction...that's where am having heat problems...exterior Cold Electricity Induction is great.

Let me know how it went.

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[Bob Smith]

UFO,
You mentioned,

The "Ideal Core" for this application would be a Nano Crystalline type of Ferromagnetic core...but no luck finding it in a near by store...

Would it be possible to use 2 or 3 large ferrite beads, stacked on end? E believe every computer monitor power cord here in Canada has to have one; not sure about US.
FWIW
-Enjoying the posts and all the fine R&D.
Bob

[Ufopolitics]

UFO,
You mentioned,
Would it be possible to use 2 or 3 large ferrite beads, stacked on end? E believe every computer monitor power cord here in Canada has to have one; not sure about US.
FWIW
-Enjoying the posts and all the fine R&D.
Bob

Hello Bob Smith,

Well, I don't know about those ferrite beads...The core am working on is relatively small...It is 5/8 inches OD and 2 1/4 Inches long...and could be even shorter...it is the strongest area where the RE Interactions take place within the primary...

But I am building some cores...with steel dust collected from my work on the Coil Fins...broiled up to perfection then frozen...set over a bed of high temp resin...and carbon fibers running along...doesn't it sounds appetizing ..hehe??

Anyone have any suggestions what else could I add to this delicious plate??...


Cheers

Ufopolitics

[wingstalysis]

Response and appreciation

Hello Wingstalysis,

Well, there is a bit of info needed in your Scooter spec's...So I could direct you to the right paths...If it is a BLDC (Brush-less DC) Motor, there is not much I could do for you...but if it is a Brushed Motor I could help you. Then I would need the Voltage-Amps supply and the type of Controller it has (Brand-Model, Voltage-Amps and C.L (Current Limiting) ratings.
I had designed and built an specific Motor for a Bosch-Badsey Scooter...used to be 24 V 33 A System, dual gel batteries...and I got to run it with 36V 6.3 A...out of a 3Pack R/C Electric Helicopter LiPo batteries...for much longer time than the heavy lead acid-gel batteries...actually you could stick this batteries in your pocket.

I used exactly the same controller I have in this post...The typical controllers are built with a Heavy 'Fire Wall' against Back EMF...that would not apply here...it will overheat something in my type of system...batteries or motor...not good.

Now, to run it with Radiant Energy if you have a brushed motor is relatively simple, all you need is a Primary-Secondary Coil of same wiring as your motor gauge...rated for your supply system (V-A). I would say that depending at the configuration of how many brushes, [if it has four or two] then you could figure out the turn ratio per contact of brushes-commutator to rotor coils, in order to build your coil accurately. Then, run the motor out of the Secondary-Primary (After Diodes) both in series of your new coil...You will get super power, the motor will run very cold to freezing levels.. and enough power to run a built in "smart new style charger" . NOT the type that have a One Ton of Steel, Transformer on it, but the light and modern switching chargers.

Actually all you have done, is to run the motor with what Physics call Back EMF, yes, "PURE Back EMF"...We took -this time- the "Parasitical" Hot Electricity out of our System...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Greetings, UFO,
Excuse my slow response in responding to your most important answers, and request for further data. I am most excited about that which you kindly shared. I will take a look at the DC Motor in my Mobility Scooter and let you know everything I can. I'm pretty sure it has brushes. I'll be back in touch soon as I can. Thanks again UFO for your kindness. I wish I was gifted as you are in this exciting futureistic technology that has patiently been awaiting to be recognised and utilised by Humanity. Take it easy UFO, and have a no worries day in Florida-watch out for Aligators.

Wings

[blackchisel97]

Hello Bob Smith,

Well, I don't know about those ferrite beads...The core am working on is relatively small...It is 5/8 inches OD and 2 1/4 Inches long...and could be even shorter...it is the strongest area where the RE Interactions take place within the primary...

But I am building some cores...with steel dust collected from my work on the Coil Fins...broiled up to perfection then frozen...set over a bed of high temp resin...and carbon fibers running along...doesn't it sounds appetizing ..hehe??

Anyone have any suggestions what else could I add to this delicious plate??...


Cheers

Ufopolitics

Hello Ufopolitics,

The idea with crystallized iron and resetting memory got me thinking about magnetite powder cores cast in polyester. I remember watching Peter Lindemann video where he describe importance of placing strong magnets at each end during curing process. I also think that hollow cores maybe superior to solid ones. I used them in one of my early generator tests and they work better than solid iron core.

Thanks

Vtech