My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Ufopolitics,

The idea with crystallized iron and resetting memory got me thinking about magnetite powder cores cast in polyester. I remember watching Peter Lindemann video where he describe importance of placing strong magnets at each end during curing process. I also think that hollow cores maybe superior to solid ones. I used them in one of my early generator tests and they work better than solid iron core.

Thanks

Vtech

Hey Blackchisel

Yes, am using polyester resin..but just steel powder, zinc, brass...and carbon fiber along core(Carbon is to make further testing on magnetic and electrical properties).
I agree on the Hollow Cores, Radiant Energy strongest point takes place right in the center of Coil...I had felt it, it is a strong push-pull force of both magnetic fields pulsing, further on I made an specific tool to detect the exact area...I made a brass bar, hooked up to a couple of copper rings that swivel rotate in vertical and horizontal plane-axis related to coil inner core, the center of the 'tool' holds a flat cylindrical ceramic magnet mounted in a copper frame...(except magnet, everything else, even the bolts and nuts are Non Magnetic materials) that rotates in the first inner ring...Well, when I go inside the coil at pulsations...the magnet becomes a fast speed motor...and as I take it away from center it starts loosing power...This helps you "see" the exact areas...by moving it around the core up-down, South-North.
I also converted a Car Digital compass (mirror mount type) in another tool to detect N-S Changes...however the electronics-processors are not designed to go at those fast changes-pulses of polarities...the mechanical tool...even it looks like it belongs to Maxwell Lab from the 1800's ...works out superb.

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[fathershand]

Winding the Coil

Hey Fathershand...a bit better than a "Hand Drawing"...



Normally an Automotive fan motor (depending on Car Manufacturer) is made out of two brush system, basically if it comes from Japanese models, unless is a Bosch type used in some Dodge-Chrysler Caravans , then those are 4 brush.
A simple test is to set at Input of Motor a Digital meter at continuity (Diode/Beep) and rotate the shaft till you have contact, then go to Resistance Measure...that gives you an idea of the Coil, normally is low Ohms.
For safety, I will use 18 Gauge, and turn primary exceeding resistance on Motor (That's the idea)...because Coil will be running "Full Time" while rotor coils are constantly switching and 'idling' (not full time on).
This System is great...You "Accelerate' through the Coil...not directly to Motor...and Coil transforms to Cold electricity to Motor...in a running vehicle, the Coil could be set with an air scoop to enhance normal operating temp or heat sink for longer operating times... till we find the right Core Material. I have done this tests...wonderful results !

Thanks, UFO, for this. I have read this 10 times and am still unsure how to determine how many turns for the primary and secondary. Since I am an electric motor newbie, would you please tell or show me how to determine this? I am looking at a different motor armature and need some coaching to understand what you mean .

Thanks for your patience.
Tony

[Turion]

Ufopolotics,
I love what you are doing here, and can't wait to replicate your design. Your latest circuit reminded me so much of what we are doing on the "3 Battery Generator" thread where we are running the motor between the positives, which seems to cause the BEMF to reverse polarity, passing through the EMF on the same wire, and hitting the primary batteries between the pulses caused by the brushes in the 12 volt DC motors we are using, causing the primary batteries to recharge. (or so I believe) I would love to have your input or suggestions on what we are doing there. Attached is our basic circuit. We hook a load directly to battery 3, (which has to be a bad battery with minimum voltage in order to maintain the potential difference) and the motor speeds up. When that load is balanced with the load on the motor, the motor will speed up AGAIN within 3 to 5 minutes and then the system goes into a "zone" where it pulls almost nothing out of the primary batteries. I have had 10 to 15 hour runs where the voltage on them barely goes down, and recovers after rest time. And its not just a surface charge, because it maintains this voltage when connected directly to a load. If you care to jump in and give us any input I would sincerely appreciate it.

Dave

[erfinder]

Hey Fathershand...a bit better than a "Hand Drawing"...



Normally an Automotive fan motor (depending on Car Manufacturer) is made out of two brush system, basically if it comes from Japanese models, unless is a Bosch type used in some Dodge-Chrysler Caravans , then those are 4 brush.
A simple test is to set at Input of Motor a Digital meter at continuity (Diode/Beep) and rotate the shaft till you have contact, then go to Resistance Measure...that gives you an idea of the Coil, normally is low Ohms.
For safety, I will use 18 Gauge, and turn primary exceeding resistance on Motor (That's the idea)...because Coil will be running "Full Time" while rotor coils are constantly switching and 'idling' (not full time on).
This System is great...You "Accelerate' through the Coil...not directly to Motor...and Coil transforms to Cold electricity to Motor...in a running vehicle, the Coil could be set with an air scoop to enhance normal operating temp or heat sink for longer operating times... till we find the right Core Material. I have done this tests...wonderful results !

Ok...I tried out this circuit on an air core pulse motor and noted the following:

* ELIMINATES (CEMF)....

* ELIMINATES the inductive kickback.

* The draw remains the same, no reduction in consumption when using this method.......future testing may prove otherwise.

* Motor top speed is severely limited! Machine doesn't reach normal cruising speed...

Motor windings heat up! This even though the draw is low?!?



Conclusion...

Aside from experiencing the CEMF being eliminated, I did not note any decrease in circuit draw, nor did I experience the device or the control circuit cooling....

Do you have a video of any of your tests? I need more information...more than whats being provided...

Regards

[fathershand]

Trying to Build It

Ok...I tried out this circuit on an air core pulse motor and noted the following:

* ELIMINATES (CEMF)....

* ELIMINATES the inductive kickback.

* The draw remains the same, no reduction in consumption when using this method.......future testing may prove otherwise.

* Motor top speed is severely limited! Machine doesn't reach normal cruising speed...

Motor windings heat up! This even though the draw is low?!?



Conclusion...

Aside from experiencing the CEMF being eliminated, I did not note any decrease in circuit draw, nor did I experience the device or the control circuit cooling....

Do you have a video of any of your tests? I need more information...more than whats being provided...

Regards

ERFINDER, did you use the exact same circuit that he gave in this thread?

UFOPOLITICS, I have the following Ford Radiator fan motot to try this with:

Ford part # is F8LH-8K621-AA
Siemens # is 162-022-05

I put my meter across 2 of the 3 motor leads and slowly rotated the rotor. The highest resistance that I got was 2.8 to 3 Ohms. It has 4 brushes.

Would you recommend that I use this motor for a test? Also, should I build a bifilar coil with 18AWG wire with resistance greater than 3.0 for each winding? What value of resistance would you recommend for this?

Thanks for your help!! I am looking forward to great things.
Tony

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

I have built the circuit but doesn't work yet. I have found that where there is supposed to be 12v after the LM317 voltage regulator I am only measuring 3v. Can you just check to see if everything is correct on the regulator side of the circuit.

Thanks netica

[bbem]

@Netica
Having the same problem.
When leaving out resistors and replacing values I get 12v.
But I don't know if this is the wright way.

[ewizard]

Hi Ufo,

I have built the circuit but doesn't work yet. I have found that where there is supposed to be 12v after the LM317 voltage regulator I am only measuring 3v. Can you just check to see if everything is correct on the regulator side of the circuit.

Thanks netica

Did you catch that the original posted circuit had a wire missing? It was corrected in a diagram I posted as well as one other person here who also made the modifiction once UFOPolitics made note of this to us.

[bbem]

@ewizard
Yes the wire is adjusted, but the math is not correct.
Following the math in this schematic
LM317 Variable Power Supply

In Ufo's schematic the voltage would be V = 1.25(1+(R3/R4))
so Output voltage is 1.25(1+220/10000)= 1,3V
According to the formula R4 should have a value of 1892 ohms though to get 12V.

Bert

[kapierenundkopieren]

Voltage regulator

@Netica
@bbem

Hi guys! The Ufopolitics voltage regulator works good in a simulation and so it should in real life - it's a simple circuit.
Could you please recheck and make sure that your voltage regulator is connected like this?

[EMJunkie]

Just a little more information needed?

Hey there UFO!

Nice work brother! Can I please ask, for purposes of replication, the following:

Input Coil:
Inductance: ?
DC Resistance: ?
AWG: ?
Turns: ?
Core OD: ?
Supplied Voltage: ?
Supplied Amps: ?

Bi Filar: (yes or no and connection type, series or parallel centre tapped) (if this is different than your last Motor Diagram that is)

Your Resonant Frequency: ? (on the 555 timer output pin)

Output Coil:
Inductance: ?
DC Resistance: ?
AWG: ?
Turns: ?
Output Voltage: ?
Output Amps: ?

Bi Filar: (yes or no and connection type, series or parallel centre tapped) (if this is different than your last Motor Diagram that is)

Output Frequency on the Output: ? (The Frequency on the output - scope probes in your video)

You said in one post: don’t worry about the coil to much yet. Could it be that the coil is the trick here? The winding and wiring of this coil may be where the Negative Resistance is coming from? I am more than happy to replicate your device if you can provide me with the above information. I have been around for a bit and I don’t give up easily.

So let me know and I will do the best I can to replicate your setup.

All the Best - EMJunkie

[EMJunkie]

Also UFO, if you can please record the Duty Cycle on your input please. Maybe worth noting any harmonic distortion on the oscillator also if you can?

I am guessing 50% DC but I may be way off here. I also think there is no harmonic distortion on the output of the oscillator also but still worth asking.

Thanks again - EMJunkie

[Netica]

Hi Kapier,

After seeing your simulation I decided to recheck the regulator but this time I disconnected the regulators output from the rest of the circuit.
I measured the voltage and found that the voltage measured 13.20v. So I connected it up to a 12v bulb, the bulb did not light.
I then checked the amps and found I couldn't measure any. So, at this time I still think that the regulator circuit needs to be looked at. I have voltage but no amps.

Hi ewizard, I am using the corrected circuit

netica

[bbem]

@Netica
Yes the same over here..
@Kapierenundkopieren
Thanks for helping out.

Bert

[Ufopolitics]

Eliminates CEMF?..

Ok...I tried out this circuit on an air core pulse motor and noted the following:

* ELIMINATES (CEMF)....

* ELIMINATES the inductive kickback.

* The draw remains the same, no reduction in consumption when using this method.......future testing may prove otherwise.

* Motor top speed is severely limited! Machine doesn't reach normal cruising speed...

Motor windings heat up! This even though the draw is low?!?



Conclusion...

Aside from experiencing the CEMF being eliminated, I did not note any decrease in circuit draw, nor did I experience the device or the control circuit cooling....

Do you have a video of any of your tests? I need more information...more than whats being provided...

Regards

Hello Erfinder,

This circuit DOES NOT eliminates CEMF...IT RUNS ON CEMF...
Therefore there is not supposed to be any kickback...
Did you check for Brush sparks "On Normal Operation" versus My Circuit here?
I did NOT use an Air Core Motor...probably it does not work with them...
Normally Air Core motors are very small or miniature motors...built to work on very low Milli Amps and Voltages...I do not recommend them for this testing.
Do it with a Radio Shack small brushed, cheap motor...steel core.

I have used many motors on this test, from cheap to very expensive ones...They ALL work great.

Good luck

Ufopolitics