My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[bbem]

Great vid Ufo
Hope I finish replication soon.

[Ufopolitics]

If they would be fast chargers...

Thanks so much Rubberband. Actually I feel like a bit of a nana, as UFO did state in an earlier thread the type of batteries to use, and to make matters worse I have those batteries which I use on my Electric Jets. Blows all my fuses that three such batteries can power my Mobility Scooter. Exciting stuff. Thanks UFO, and you kind thoughtful guys for not telling me off!

Love and Honour,
Wingstalysis

Hey Wingtalysis,

If those batteries were 3C (Fastest Chargers available)...and you have the New style low consumption Smart Chargers (They are very light and small)...for the whole pack, with the 'Balancer' included, you could add those in the scooter...and charge them up while accelerating...How is that?
You connect the charger to stabilizer and stabilizer to batteries specific plug to do that(Charger-stabilizer in closed up loop mode)...not the "Discharge" plug...then make a special Coil Secondary just to feed the "Charging System"...
There is a charger...(I got two of them) Thunderpower TP1010C, can charge up to 10 LiPo's at 10 A, it is a 12V Input Charger, (It requires 12V 25 Amps) but requires the Balancer to charge them on the other side plug...
Still you will have xtra room to carry an "Extra Pack" just in case...

And then...Let's Rock and Roll!!

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[The_Light]

Hello The Light,

Absolutely there is something not right in your circuit-set up.

....Answer: NO, they are NOT wrong, secondary...

Hi UFOPolitics,

I was merely pointing out, you wrote on your diagram: "D3,D4 are set to kill Induced Hot Electricty on Secondary." The diodes on the secondary Induce Hot Electricity, this is the way it flows by means of induction from the Primary to the Secondary. I am sorry if I upset you, I was only showing my findings, with a little frustration added in there.

I do obviously have something wrong. I will keep trying and see what I get.

May The Light be with you.

[Ufopolitics]

It is Ok...

Hi UFOPolitics,

I was merely pointing out, you wrote on your diagram: "D3,D4 are set to kill Induced Hot Electricty on Secondary." The diodes on the secondary Induce Hot Electricity, this is the way it flows by means of induction from the Primary to the Secondary. I am sorry if I upset you, I was only showing my findings, with a little frustration added in there.

I do obviously have something wrong. I will keep trying and see what I get.

May The Light be with you.

Hey The Light,

Look, I came here to make a Free Public Disclosure about my findings, plus my R&D on this subject and that is, my first "priority" here... my expertise on this fields is on my first introduction page...
I am also here to help others replicate my set up, as much as I could...
But I did not come here to teach from scratch Electronics-Electricity...nor to argue with people that just landing here and start criticizing my set up...telling me Diodes are wrong connected and else, or trying to teach me...how to do it..That's not why I came here. And it is very rude and ranting to do so, without first, reading and going over my posts-videos.

I hope you know by now that Hot (Normal, Typical) DC and AC does not Induce in great measure, meaning robust, just by winding one coil on top of another one, without a huge bulky and heavy steel laminated E frame... Otherwise there wouldn't be such huge and heavy transformers in the market by now...
My set up does induces Hot, but in the Milli Volts range that would not even lit up an LED...(And that is , precisely the way I want it to be) So it is completely disregarded, and not concern with it at all... In my latest video I show that...when I turned the small coil South Up, the LED should lite up by means of Induced Hot...but it don't, why?...it is a plastic-air core. I just do not mention not to confuse people...I measure Hot at all times while comparing to cold...
Radiant Energy does NOT need a Bulky frame to Induce into another coil...its medium is the Air...Her Flux Radiation does not work the same as Hot...at all.
The set up with the Motor could be done with an Air core...simple as that.
I am making the "Happy Motor Video"...I will show all diodes set up there, plus I will Infrared read temperature on motor...with just Hot...and another identical...(no time to wait till it cools down on video) with cold...The difference is outrageous in temp, in speed and in consumption... By far.

I have several controllers-oscillators from factory...Curtis 48-36V to Hobbico (small ones) built for electric vehicles...and for R/C Models ...none of them work for this purposes. They have built in diodes for every MOSFET, plus "Safety Flywheelers" to kill Radiant or C EMF, plus they are designed to 'resist' the High Impact of motors start up...so they start at High Frequencies of Time On and very Low of T-Off...not good either.
That's the reason I had to build them for this purposes from scratch.

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[wingstalysis]

Nuclear

Hey Wingtalysis,

If those batteries were 3C (Fastest Chargers available)...and you have the New style low consumption Smart Chargers (They are very light and small)...for the whole pack, with the 'Balancer' included, you could add those in the scooter...and charge them up while accelerating...How is that?
You connect the charger to stabilizer and stabilizer to batteries specific plug to do that(Charger-stabilizer in closed up loop mode)...not the "Discharge" plug...then make a special Coil Secondary just to feed the "Charging System"...
There is a charger...(I got two of them) Thunderpower TP1010C, can charge up to 10 LiPo's at 10 A, it is a 12V Input Charger, (It requires 12V 25 Amps) but requires the Balancer to charge them on the other side plug...
Still you will have xtra room to carry an "Extra Pack" just in case...

And then...Let's Rock and Roll!!

Cheers

Ufopolitics

Greetings, UFO,
Koolio, most appreciated your kindness. Here is a web address HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : LiPo, LiFe, NiMH Battery>Turnigy Lipoly I located here in the UK that has chargers and Li Po. Would you have a quick gander and let me know at your convenience what you would choose from their Thunderpower Li Po and charger range for my project. My present LiPo are only 1c 2200ma. Also explain what you mean by stabiliser. I understand what you are suggesting to a reasonable degree. When you get the time would you make a quick drawing so I do not make any costly errors in the wiring up etc. Only if you have a spare few moments. Thanks again Bro' for your sharing.Nuclear video on proving Radiant Energy. Can I Email you from this Forum or otherway, as I have something important to ask you, not valid to this thread, which I would appreciate your input on. You have a no worry day.

Love and Honour.
Wingstalysis

[Ufopolitics]

Greetings, UFO,
Koolio, most appreciated your kindness. Here is a web address HobbyKing R/C Hobby Store : LiPo, LiFe, NiMH Battery>Turnigy Lipoly I located here in the UK that has chargers and Li Po. Would you have a quick gander and let me know at your convenience what you would choose from their Thunderpower Li Po and charger range for my project. My present LiPo are only 1c 2200ma. Also explain what you mean by stabiliser. I understand what you are suggesting to a reasonable degree. When you get the time would you make a quick drawing so I do not make any costly errors in the wiring up etc. Only if you have a spare few moments. Thanks again Bro' for your sharing.Nuclear video on proving Radiant Energy. Can I Email you from this Forum or otherway, as I have something important to ask you, not valid to this thread, which I would appreciate your input on. You have a no worry day.

Love and Honour.
Wingstalysis

Hey Wingtalysis,

A stabilizer is an additional equipment (some chargers have it built in, however I have not heard of one made for packs of LiPo's...it charges the batteries through the 4 terminal plug, where one (black) is general ground for all) and the other three are for positive of first cell, then second cell plus first and the third red cable is for positive of all three. This is the way to charge the LiPo's, where, first, the stabilizer makes all cells of equal to very close values by adding a small charge to the ones who needs most(it takes a reading first of each cell)..Then proceed to the normal charge. This is a better approach when charging heavy sets of LiPo Packs...like 36 Volts or more.
But, at same token, leave you the "discharge plug" free to be connected to the loads (Oscillator-Coil_Motor) while you are charging them from the other side.
So, first have to make sure the Charger is completely compatible with stabilizer, so better be same brand...as recommended by manufacturer.
The Thunder Power 1010C has an external (optional) stabilizer that connects to it through an interface cable...so they are in complete mutual exchange of data.
You could write to me here I always answer my mails.
But my regular email is: ufopolitics@gmail.com
Thanks

Ufopolitics

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

I have tried the completed circuit out.

I initially got my air coil to magnetize really well and was able to vary the strength with the pot on the circuit, You could hear the frequency rise.

I attached the neon light and got some pulsed light from about 1 pulse per sec. to about 2 pulses per sec. I turned up the pot the neon went out then turned on like it was connected up normally to 240v socket but dim then slowly brighter but not as bright as a normally lit neon. I repeated this a couple of times raising and lowering the pot. Then turned it off.

Second try I turned It up to where the neon lit dimly, left it there about 10-15 sec. and the thing started playing up. Then turned it off.

I seemed to be getting power to the coil in a sporadic way as there seemed to be a problem with the drive circuit.
I now find that I get frequency to the coil but very little current, you can hear and feel an extremely light magnetic field and frequency but thats it.

I changed the 555 but that didn't help still the same. I don't know if maybe the mosfets are damaged in some way or it is a component in the drive circuit. I really didn't get a chance to do any thing with it unfortunately.
However even with the extremely low power in the coil I can still get the neon to light for awhile then it shuts off.
I didn't have the time to measure the frequency before things stuffed up but they seem a bit messed up at the moment. I just don't know whats wrong with this drive circuit.
I have just checked how much power the frequency circuit is drawing from the LM317 regulator, it starts at about 60ma and slowly increases and I find that what little power is going to the coil drops off when the frequency circuit draw reaches around 98ma and higher. I don't understand what is happening and why the draw isn't constant.

So now I'm stuck and not sure what is wrong or what to do.
Any advise would be appreciated as it would be pointless building the thing all over again as the same will happen.
The coil I am using is 6 ohms, the wire is 0.9mm diameter, air coil. And the coil is not the problem it works well when energized separately.

netica

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

I have tried the completed circuit out.

I initially got my air coil to magnetize really well and was able to vary the strength with the pot on the circuit, You could hear the frequency rise.

I attached the neon light and got some pulsed light from about 1 pulse per sec. to about 2 pulses per sec. I turned up the pot the neon went out then turned on like it was connected up normally to 240v socket but dim then slowly brighter but not as bright as a normally lit neon. I repeated this a couple of times raising and lowering the pot. Then turned it off.

Second try I turned It up to where the neon lit dimly, left it there about 10-15 sec. and the thing started playing up. Then turned it off.

I seemed to be getting power to the coil in a sporadic way as there seemed to be a problem with the drive circuit.
I now find that I get frequency to the coil but very little current, you can hear and feel an extremely light magnetic field and frequency but thats it.

I changed the 555 but that didn't help still the same. I don't know if maybe the mosfets are damaged in some way or it is a component in the drive circuit. I really didn't get a chance to do any thing with it unfortunately.
However even with the extremely low power in the coil I can still get the neon to light for awhile then it shuts off.
I didn't have the time to measure the frequency before things stuffed up but they seem a bit messed up at the moment. I just don't know whats wrong with this drive circuit.
I have just checked how much power the frequency circuit is drawing from the LM317 regulator, it starts at about 60ma and slowly increases and I find that what little power is going to the coil drops off when the frequency circuit draw reaches around 98ma and higher. I don't understand what is happening and why the draw isn't constant.

So now I'm stuck and not sure what is wrong or what to do.
Any advise would be appreciated as it would be pointless building the thing all over again as the same will happen.
The coil I am using is 6 ohms, the wire is 0.9mm diameter, air coil. And the coil is not the problem it works well when energized separately.

netica

Hello Netica,

Based on your description, you are not getting enough pulses and power to Coil.
1-Seems like 555 circuit is not working very stable at raising up frequency. Now this is an oscillator (low voltage side) problem.
2-It seems that MOSFET's are not driving a full up scale up (amperage plus volts)

I may conclude as if your voltage regulating system is not Sourcing enough power "On Demand" from circuit, as you turn the pot on.

Don't get frustrated, you have to do some good measurements there...

1-With system on and while you turn Pot up , Check leg#3 of 555 output with a voltmeter with ground reference, then check at the other end (after the 100 ohms and the 330 ohms to Mosfet's Gate), see how much voltage is getting there ,and if there is a difference between them.
2-With system off, Check Mosfet's resistance value on Internal diode,one by one, by hooking up a continuity-diode check meter and put positive tester probe on Source leg, Negative probe at Drain. It should read some value between 400-500.
3-Check the voltage regulator apart from 555 input, isolated, but apply a 12V load, an automotive halogen bulb, for example...and see if it holds on the power...while you reach the high output.
4-With power On and turning Pot Up, measure Output between Drain and Positive (Input at Coil), see how much voltage are you getting there...

On my circuit the LM317 Output at the point where I marked with red arrow it delivers around 13. something volts...
and do not worry, 555 can take up to 18V.


Let me know...however the test wuith the neon sounded very interesting.

Good luck in the testing

Ufopolitics

[FRC]

Ufo

Could not help but notice the similarity in your "Defining Radiant Energy" video
with the Joseph Newman motor. Yours is using radiant energy to produce
mechanical force, whereas, Newman's uses mechanical force to obtain
radiant energy ( or at least I think that is how Newman's works). Both
configurations are similar. If your radiant motor was increased in size, it
would appear that you would get much higher RPM's than a Newman motor
of similar size. I may be all wrong, but what are your views on this. Thanks
for the demonstration.

George

[chalamadad]

ufo, please find private messages top right of this page. thanks!

[Ufopolitics]

Could not help but notice the similarity in your "Defining Radiant Energy" video
with the Joseph Newman motor. Yours is using radiant energy to produce
mechanical force, whereas, Newman's uses mechanical force to obtain
radiant energy ( or at least I think that is how Newman's works). Both
configurations are similar. If your radiant motor was increased in size, it
would appear that you would get much higher RPM's than a Newman motor
of similar size. I may be all wrong, but what are your views on this. Thanks
for the demonstration.

George

Hello George,

Nice to see you around again!

Yes, very good observation there, and the comparison with Newman Motor is just right. Structure wise it is the same config.
Newman Motor uses a mechanical approach , a commutator and contact brush...and Inner permanent magnets...

The little motor I demonstrated runs 50% on our pulses and 50% on Radiant Energy...so it should be pretty efficient on our side.
Our pulses regulate the speed...since Radiant Energy power depends on our frequency to run faster or slower.
And exactly as you are saying, if we expand the radius of inner coil, plus get a heavier set magnet mounted on bearings...we should get a pretty good response in speed. At the same token if we also add a coil to it...we will convert it in a "Motor-Generator" Assembly...and could run the power outside by continuous slip ring contacts...just like an "Alternating Current Motor" plus a Generator built in...
Actually we do not need slip rings, just by isolating (by splitting) the Core in two copper pieces direct it to each axle-shaft also isolated...we could get the power from the two shaft sides...

Why don't You make it George?...

In my next video (Part Two) I made a similar approach to Walter Russell's Cone Coils...and the results are impressive...anti-gravity inside the core, George, on magnets...plus a much bigger range of Radiant Field that allows me to almost drive the motor and LED outside the Coil...

Cheers

Ufopolitics

[Netica]

Hello Netica,

Based on your description, you are not getting enough pulses and power to Coil.
1-Seems like 555 circuit is not working very stable at raising up frequency. Now this is an oscillator (low voltage side) problem.
2-It seems that MOSFET's are not driving a full up scale up (amperage plus volts)

I may conclude as if your voltage regulating system is not Sourcing enough power "On Demand" from circuit, as you turn the pot on.

Don't get frustrated, you have to do some good measurements there...

1-With system on and while you turn Pot up , Check leg#3 of 555 output with a voltmeter with ground reference, then check at the other end (after the 100 ohms and the 330 ohms to Mosfet's Gate), see how much voltage is getting there ,and if there is a difference between them.
2-With system off, Check Mosfet's resistance value on Internal diode,one by one, by hooking up a continuity-diode check meter and put positive tester probe on Source leg, Negative probe at Drain. It should read some value between 400-500.
3-Check the voltage regulator apart from 555 input, isolated, but apply a 12V load, an automotive halogen bulb, for example...and see if it holds on the power...while you reach the high output.
4-With power On and turning Pot Up, measure Output between Drain and Positive (Input at Coil), see how much voltage are you getting there...

On my circuit the LM317 Output at the point where I marked with red arrow it delivers around 13. something volts...
and do not worry, 555 can take up to 18V.


Let me know...however the test wuith the neon sounded very interesting.

Good luck in the testing

Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

Thanks for your help and direction,
After doing what you have said I think you worked out correctly that the regulated power supply isn't good enough for the circuit.

1- Voltage getting to the mosfet started at around 6v but very quickly dropped to between 0 and 2.6 volts and .03 to.05 lower at leg#3.
2-The values for the Mosfet's internal diode resistance were all between 445 and 449.
3-I put a higher load globe on the regulator and found it didn't power it at all, the voltage dropped right off straight away and the amps started at around 500ma and dropped off.
4-Voltage at the coil starts at 33v but quickly drops to 0v in a few seconds.

I have also increased the voltage output of the regulator to 13.8v but this has very little benefit.
The LM317 gets very hot, I think the difference in voltage 38 to 12 is quite allot for it to handle.
So it seems like I am back to the original problem of finding a good regulated power supply to work with this circuit.

Thanks again for your help Ufo.

netica

[Ufopolitics]

Hi Ufo,

Thanks for your help and direction,
After doing what you have said I think you worked out correctly that the regulated power supply isn't good enough for the circuit.

1- Voltage getting to the mosfet started at around 6v but very quickly dropped to between 0 and 2.6 volts and .03 to.05 lower at leg#3.
2-The values for the Mosfet's internal diode resistance were all between 445 and 449.
3-I put a higher load globe on the regulator and found it didn't power it at all, the voltage dropped right off straight away and the amps started at around 500ma and dropped off.
4-Voltage at the coil starts at 33v but quickly drops to 0v in a few seconds.

I have also increased the voltage output of the regulator to 13.8v but this has very little benefit.
The LM317 gets very hot, I think the difference in voltage 38 to 12 is quite allot for it to handle.
So it seems like I am back to the original problem of finding a good regulated power supply to work with this circuit.

Thanks again for your help Ufo.

netica

Hello Netica,

Yes because of your description I figured the Power Supply was not responding "on demand" when Higher requirements are set by the whole system.

I really can not see why you are so stuck with the voltage regulator system!!, I have even thought you may have the LM 317 connected in reverse related to Input-Adjustment legs (The two on sides)...We all know that center is Output, however the basic confusion is at the A and I legs...This transistors are "resettable" they hardly go bad unless fried...by a very high voltage exceeding its max values (36V)
It shouldn't heat up that much (I mean LM317 heat up...it is normal...) unless doing long times at high peaks (full blast)...Do you have it on a Heat Sink?
It also seems like you have not enough Capacitance response in your power supply...meaning, your Electrolytic Caps ain't working right somehow, either are not good, or are connected the wrong way.
The little caps (2.2 and 10 uF) as the 1000 uF are very important to this regulator, makes it more 'robust'...I mean there are only like 6 or seven components total here...
My only mistake in the latest Update was the resistor parallel to diode to be 220 ohms instead of 2.2 K...just the one to ground is 2.2 K...but the rest is identical to mine, and it is working perfect.
So, my only conclusion here is that you, are connecting the LM317 the wrong way...check it out again...slowly...easy...
also check the Caps at the regulator...connections and conditions...
The other thing is...What batteries are you using?..LiPo's?...How many Amps?
The Batteries am using are Fully charged 37 Volts, totaling 6.6 Amps (2200 mA each pack out of three that have around 12V ea)

Good luck...and please do it carefully, I am waiting very enthusiastic to see those Neons bright up your skies there...

Cheers

Ufopolitics.

[FRC]

Thanks UFO

Thanks UFO for confirming my observations. I always eventually wanted to
try replicating a Newman motor. Now that I have seen your design concept
and kind of understand the operating principles, from what I can tell this
would be a superior device. From what I have learned, and demonstrated
for myself, it is not that difficult to obtain radiant energy. The problem is
being able to utilize it or convert it to an efficient usable form. With your
approach the conversion seems much simpler.

George

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks UFO for confirming my observations. I always eventually wanted to
try replicating a Newman motor. Now that I have seen your design concept
and kind of understand the operating principles, from what I can tell this
would be a superior device. From what I have learned, and demonstrated
for myself, it is not that difficult to obtain radiant energy. The problem is
being able to utilize it or convert it to an efficient usable form. With your
approach the conversion seems much simpler.

George

Thanks George!

There are ways to make it happen in a more robust way...and has to do with the oscillation signals...So far my Dual Channels are working great, however am not happy...The way it should be done is slightly while going up, start reducing our Times On and widening our T-Off's ...This is completely inversely to How every controller-oscillator works...but I am sure it will render absolutely wonderful results.

Definitively you are right, this type of motor could be superior to a BLDC and of course to a brushed one...the thing is...oscillations have to start again from zero if it collapses, I do not see it that "robust" at starting point/response...that's why I am mentioning the oscillation issues...
However, I have not been trying to make-design a motor here...but just to demonstrate there is absolutely No "Single" Collapsing field Story teller any more...
There are "Collapsing Fields" on and off...where the cause for changing polarity an Inductor is due to the Radiant Opposite Field coming up...

Regards

Ufopolitics