My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[thugugly]

measurements

UFO,

Hey UFO, I do have a nexxtech from the source, maybe you can tell why I can measure capacitance, and ohms but I don't get a reading for amps or volts or frequency, its on, but no reading, I fried something I guess. This just happened last week.

So now all I have is an inductance capacitance meter, a nexxtech cap and resistance meter, a micronta ohm, ac/dc volt, and dc milliamp meter, and an EXCEL digital clamp meter that measures ac current, volts and ohms.
If I can't get the frequency for the nexxtech working I will buy a new one, or two.

I mearured the coil UFO, it was 2.1 ohms, I used wire from the source ( was radioshack once) 22 ga
I wound 4 layers around a 1 inch plastic pipe, each
layer had 100 turns.

Thug

[Ufopolitics]

Sorry about your meter (R.I.P)

ORR

UFO,

Hey UFO, I do have a nexxtech from the source, maybe you can tell why I can measure capacitance, and ohms but I don't get a reading for amps or volts or frequency, its on, but no reading, I fried something I guess. This just happened last week.

So now all I have is an inductance capacitance meter, a nexxtech cap and resistance meter, a micronta ohm, ac/dc volt, and dc milliamp meter, and an EXCEL digital clamp meter that measures ac current, volts and ohms.
If I can't get the frequency for the nexxtech working I will buy a new one, or two.

I mearured the coil UFO, it was 2.1 ohms, I used wire from the source ( was radioshack once) 22 ga
I wound 4 layers around a 1 inch plastic pipe, each
layer had 100 turns.

Thug

Hey Thug,

Sorry about the meter...I fried many also, so don't feel bad...
However, they were in their warranty period so...the Ex-Tech was Ex-changed...
Related to the Coil, YES!!..that is a great specification for our purposes...
Now, a thicker gauge like 18 awg, would be even better...and if you could do it with a Double Stranded wire...(Bifilar), but in parallel not like Tesla's ... then you would really see "The Light"...
Now you said you wound it around a plastic pipe...that's great, but try inserting a solid steel bar, just the exact size of the Coil length and leaving a small air gap between ...This will reinforce Radiant Field way more. You will have her more robust and much less expense from your Hot side.

Cheers


Ufopolitics

[thugugly]

winding coils

ufo,

I unwound an old alternator last night and I now have a whole lot of wire which looks a little bigger then the 22 ga., it must be 18-20ga.

So, since I'm starting from scratch with this coil, should I bother to layer it or just wind one long coil, and should the bifilar be wound together, or on top of each other. Also, should bifilar be diferent size wires.

I was also going to wind this one on a 2 inch pvc pipe, have you found a certain size diameter too big or bigger the better.

The one inch pipe was just right for rolls of dimes,so i tried a solid silver core (90%silver dimes), there was an effect, i just need to go back and observe. A solid steel rod did have effect, but again, I should go back and observe more.

Anyway, I will wait to here from you before I start to wind new coil.

Thug

[thugugly]

UFO,

Just couldn't wait, so I wound 450 turns, 6 layers, of the wire I salvaged last night. I wound it on top of the original 400 turn. I also left the 3rd and 4 th layer connections exposed to try step down. Will try connecting as bifilar like you posted earlier in thread. I'll measure ohms etc later on.
Thug

[Netica]

Hi Thugugly,

Thanks for the advice to use a different batt for the power supply, it works well and no more blown components.

HI Ufo,

I have made the coil.

Plastic tubing 48mm diameter.
375 winds of 19AWG .9mm diameter, 3 layers.
Solid Bright Mild Steel core.

The circuit seems to be working well although I don't know what the wave form is like because I don't have an oscilloscope.
I can tell that the frequency and duty cycle are working.

netica

[Ufopolitics]

Coil...

ufo,

I unwound an old alternator last night and I now have a whole lot of wire which looks a little bigger then the 22 ga., it must be 18-20ga.

So, since I'm starting from scratch with this coil, should I bother to layer it or just wind one long coil, and should the bifilar be wound together, or on top of each other. Also, should bifilar be diferent size wires.

I was also going to wind this one on a 2 inch pvc pipe, have you found a certain size diameter too big or bigger the better.

The one inch pipe was just right for rolls of dimes,so i tried a solid silver core (90%silver dimes), there was an effect, i just need to go back and observe. A solid steel rod did have effect, but again, I should go back and observe more.

Anyway, I will wait to here from you before I start to wind new coil.

Thug

Hey Thug,

I am sorry I have been out...
You could layer it "normally" , meaning one layer winding down to bottom, then, next coming up to top, and so on, up-down.

Bifilar in parallel I meant by just two strands of wire, same gauge...or very close ones in gauge...(18-20)
The two inch PVC is just fine, I mean do not overheat it...or it will soften on you..
Should not exceed the diameter going too big for the amount of wire you will have, remember the magnetic effect starts at the inner walls going towards the center of core...if it is too wide, then it will be an inactive, meaning, no effect in the center...
A solid Steel rod or any magnetic material will do the effect of the enhancement of Radiant Field. There should be a small millimeter air gap between...meaning NOT too tight


Regards

Ufopolitics

[thugugly]

UFO,

I hooked up coil and it lit 4 neons up brightly, I have not played with it yet, but I checked current at battery and it was only drawing 200-300 ma. I have to go to work now but will try some things later, if I can stay awake.

Thug

[Ufopolitics]

UFO,

Just couldn't wait, so I wound 450 turns, 6 layers, of the wire I salvaged last night. I wound it on top of the original 400 turn. I also left the 3rd and 4 th layer connections exposed to try step down. Will try connecting as bifilar like you posted earlier in thread. I'll measure ohms etc later on.
Thug

Hey again,

Winding it on top of the other will work just fine...try exciting the primary you wound (inner)...and connect output in secondary...you will get Radiant induced in it...actually in both will be output...
Bifilar coil should reduce the Ohms a lot...try to keep it in the lows 1-2 Ohms on primary...
Inner Core Secondary you could do finer wire and more turns-ohms...
Now exterior winding on top of Primary, should be of similar wire to avoid transfer loss..
Observe outputs with, and without rod...
Radiant Induction occurs from Outside-Towards Interior of Core, however, winding a secondary (same or very close awg) right on top of primary, will be induced, but not separated by an exterior plastic core, it will not induce then.
I use just masking tape or higher temp tape, between layers or to wind exterior secondary.
Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Great!

Hi Thugugly,

Thanks for the advice to use a different batt for the power supply, it works well and no more blown components.

HI Ufo,

I have made the coil.

Plastic tubing 48mm diameter.
375 winds of 19AWG .9mm diameter, 3 layers.
Solid Bright Mild Steel core.

The circuit seems to be working well although I don't know what the wave form is like because I don't have an oscilloscope.
I can tell that the frequency and duty cycle are working.

netica

Great Netica!

I am glad you have it running by now!!
Connect Neons and CFL's on Output...of 23-40 Watts (Real Watts not what they "replace") and observe brightness as you tune up...go slowly, don't rush it to max...
The Coil is excellent now!

Regards

Ufopolitics

[thugugly]

UFO,

It did reduce ohms a lot, I thought the ohm meter was fried also, good that will save me some time.

Thanks

[Ufopolitics]

Low Ohms...

UFO,

It did reduce ohms a lot, I thought the ohm meter was fried also, good that will save me some time.

Thanks

Hey Thug,

You know low resistance on Coil will put heavy stress in your oscillator...so make sure you protect them with diodes to avoid heavy negative spikes ...and watch for not going too close to linear signaling (meaning too short T-Off's) So, do NOT accelerate "Full Blast" and keep it like that for too long periods...I know you do not have a Hertz-Scope to read..so go by "ear"...and keep checking Mosfet's temperature...I have heavy heat sinks as also Bus Bars to Drain, and a small cooling fan on top of circuit...

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Did you check the Meter contacts?

UFO,

Hey UFO, I do have a nexxtech from the source, maybe you can tell why I can measure capacitance, and ohms but I don't get a reading for amps or volts or frequency, its on, but no reading, I fried something I guess. This just happened last week.

So now all I have is an inductance capacitance meter, a nexxtech cap and resistance meter, a micronta ohm, ac/dc volt, and dc milliamp meter, and an EXCEL digital clamp meter that measures ac current, volts and ohms.
If I can't get the frequency for the nexxtech working I will buy a new one, or two.

I mearured the coil UFO, it was 2.1 ohms, I used wire from the source ( was radioshack once) 22 ga
I wound 4 layers around a 1 inch plastic pipe, each
layer had 100 turns.

Thug

Hey Thug,

Related to your meter:
Did you take it apart and went to the rotary-Selector switch contacts?
If it is an EXTECH, is just a few small Philips bolts...away.
Normally that's their "weak" point...however the board that have the contacts is all the way inside the meter. If you get lucky...they may just be dirty...or if it was Radiant beam...it just melt them away from the fiberglass board...
Both ways they are repairable.. not a piece of cake...but could be done...
And could check if parts are available for it...

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Netica]

Great Netica!

I am glad you have it running by now!!
Connect Neons and CFL's on Output...of 23-40 Watts (Real Watts not what they "replace") and observe brightness as you tune up...go slowly, don't rush it to max...
The Coil is excellent now!

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hi Ufo,

Connected a 110v neon, with an input of 38v the neon flashed purple a few times then turned red then got so hot it started burning some paper on a note book it was lying on.
Tried another with 8.4v flashed purple for longer no matter the frequency I tried but it was lower frequency's not to high. Still ends up heating up then going red, the glass on the neon blackens.

With the CFL it's rated at 240v 24 watt ( I tried this earlier with my other coil but called it a neon by mistake sorry about the mix up ) using 38v, I got it to flash from slow to fast until it finally glows quite bright but nothing out of the ordinary, I used different duty cycles and frequency's.

The coils core gets quite hot.

That's about it for now
netica

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Netica

Hi Ufo,

Connected a 110v neon, with an input of 38v the neon flashed purple a few times then turned red then got so hot it started burning some paper on a note book it was lying on.
Tried another with 8.4v flashed purple for longer no matter the frequency I tried but it was lower frequency's not to high. Still ends up heating up then going red, the glass on the neon blackens.

With the CFL it's rated at 240v 24 watt ( I tried this earlier with my other coil but called it a neon by mistake sorry about the mix up ) using 38v, I got it to flash from slow to fast until it finally glows quite bright but nothing out of the ordinary, I used different duty cycles and frequency's.

The coils core gets quite hot.

That's about it for now
netica

Netica...

You are "dialing too fast"...give it time when going up...don't rush to max, top lighting...There is a point where you get (in Neon) just purple light flickering...stay there. don't go up and observe parameters...frequency and voltage consumption.
Related to the CFL, also you are going too fast to observe "differences" from "Normal and Radiant Glow" .
There is a point on CFL , where you are supposed to get a very fast pulsing that almost disturbs your sight, it turns from green to purplish color...because the wave amplitude...

..."I got it to flash from slow to fast until it finally glows quite bright but nothing out of the ordinary.."

This ARE NOT normal or "ordinary" glowing s on CFL's or Neon's...

If you keep dialing too high...you will keep burning Neons and also blowing the Ballast Electrolytic Caps inside CFL's...

The flickering Purple light ball, moving up-down on electrodes is definitively Radiant, the normal steady Orange Glow on Cathode-Anode is Hot...having both currents at High Outputs will definitively get component HOT and burnt...
The reason of installing a Pot is to "GRADUALLY" increase output SLOWLY...and when noticing the purple is gone...then STOP...or keep going and burn it.

You are getting the Coil too hot, just because the same thing I wrote before...You are rushing it and staying on the High Side for too long.
This Oscillator is NOT a perfect one...to get Radiant, however, works fine UP TO A CERTAIN LEVEL ONLY...after that it increases T-On's and decreases T-Off's as ANY normal controller DOES...that FACT kills Radiant ENTRY at too High Dialing ...
AGAIN, Radiant ENTERS AT T-OFF TIMES ONLY.

Did you try running a DC Brushed Motor on this output?
Please do.

And do it calmly ...do not rush it.

Cheers

Thanks

Ufopolitics

[thugugly]

motor

Hi UFO,

I havn't had a chance to really sit down with the circuit, I have been scrounging for a motor, and I found an old drill. So I'm curious, before I start to hack, is this brushed motor ok. It's a universal I thought, but I would like to hear your opinion and any additional information you care to share.

One thing I quickly did, was to input, to the slightly larger outer coil, then use the smaller inner wire with slightly less turns as well, as secondary. The coils were not physically connected to each other. I connected neons across both coils ( cold side of diodes on each coil), and neons lit brightly. Adding an iron core decreased output. Also, when I connected 21v input it was very intense, as in cook the neon buy itself across primary cold side.
I'm curious, I was using 1 nf cap in timing circuit, I thought would go from 1 to 60 khz but there was output through the whole range of frequencies, so I couldn't start slow, I mean I will try larger caps but I was just curious if that sounded right. Also, as off time was increased, definitely there was increase in intensity of output.

Thug