My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Ufopolitics]

Welcome Bob French!!

N8,

My name is Bob French and I introduced the paramagnetic material to the Monopole2 group last year. A friend of mine had me test it for paramagnetism and it turned out to be the most paramagnetic material that he had ever found. It has worked for me as a core just great. Min2oly has been using it successfully also, as have others. I call it ParaCore and my friend, Jerome Chambless sells it. E-mail him at "jeromechambless@ymail.com" to purchase some. I don't think he has much left and has had trouble making contact with his supper due to their winter work schedule back when he was trying.

Paramagnetic means that it is not magnetic, but becomes magnetic and polarized when in the presence of a magnetic field. So it is perfect for a core material in many instants. On a rotored machine there is next to no kogging (drag) at low speeds (at any speed for that matter) and retains no magnetism during switching operations. Min2oly shared that his rotor speeds about doubled with it. I ran my 6PM (100% stock parts) at over 10,000 rpm on 12v using this as the core. And the spike of the "h" wave was straight up and straight down.

I think that it might be of great use with this technology. As I understand it, the reason an air coil works is because the air has some O2 which is paramagnetic. Oxygen in the air is not dense, so I think something like the Paracore, that is very dense (sort of like rock dust), might be much better than an air core. (?) We'll have to see.

This is my first post. I just finished reading the whole thread (over three days) and I'm totally impressed and anxious to start building. Many parts are ordered. If anyone would care to suggest exactly what to build (particular timer setup, particular voltage regulator setup, and particular "mine" circuit setup) I would appreciate the input. I already have numerous coils that may work. I will have to determine the N-S of them. They are all wound the same direction (if looking down from the top, the wire wraps around in a CCW manner; is looking from the side, it starts on the left and continues across the front to the right and then around the back). Can someone tell me if the inside wire (beginning) is + or -? N or S?

Lastly, I'd like to say how happy I am that UFO has graced us with this knowledge and has been so kind as to disclose all details and encourage others to do the same. UFO, thank you! thank you! thank you!!! I am looking forward to your next video and the info forthcoming.

Thanks all,

Bob

Hello and Bob French!!,
Thanks !, it is my pleasure and my Duty to disclose all this and the upcoming developments of this set up.
I am glad you are about to start replicating my set-up!!

Paramagnetic materials are a very vast field of research for this purposes, and that material you are writing here "Para-Core" (love the name!), sounds great!
One basic issue we must have in consideration when choosing this materials, is their ability to SWITCH/SHIFT Polarities at very High Frequencies...If they can stand that test...then they are great prospects.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[civu08]

Hi Ufo!

Very interesting thigs you have here, this thread got me to actually start building something. I've been reading different projects on this forum, but yours is the one that got me started!

I'm waiting for diodes and mosfets to arrive, i ordered STTH12R06DIRG ultrafast 600V 12A diodes and FCP11N60 MOSFET. Still working on the coil and i need to get my batteries. I don't have any hertz meters yet, but i'll get them sooner or later.

[torpex]

Hi all,

@cinan
Thank you for your input on the driver TC4422. Although for the moment I go to follow the steps of Ufopolitics's circuit, I am very slow and I go step by step. Great job on our pc-controlled oscillator.

The 555 pwm oscillator has the disadvantage to vary frequency lightly while adjust pulse width.

Yes Ufo, IRF822DFI has lower espec. than IRF822. I have updated one rail to mosfet SSP16N50C3, I believe that he is a good candidate, right?

Can someone tell me if the inside wire (beginning) is + or -? N or S?

@Bob French
Hello and welcome Bob French!.
What's important is the sense of the coil, should be left hand coil.
If he gets connected wire 1 to + and wire 2 to Drain then side 1 will be the north
If he gets connected wire 2 to + and wire 1 to Drain then side 2 will be the north

Left-hand rule for coils:

[Ufopolitics]

Thanks Torpex!

Hi all,

@cinan
Thank you for your input on the driver TC4422. Although for the moment I go to follow the steps of Ufopolitics's circuit, I am very slow and I go step by step. Great job on our pc-controlled oscillator.

The 555 pwm oscillator has the disadvantage to vary frequency lightly while adjust pulse width.

Yes Ufo, IRF822DFI has lower espec. than IRF822. I have updated one rail to mosfet SSP16N50C3, I believe that he is a good candidate, right?


@Bob French
Hello and welcome Bob French!.
What's important is the sense of the coil, should be left hand coil.
If he gets connected wire 1 to + and wire 2 to Drain then side 1 will be the north
If he gets connected wire 2 to + and wire 1 to Drain then side 2 will be the north

Left-hand rule for coils:

Hello Torpex!

Hey thanks for helping Bob French on this, there are a lot of misleading and wrong info out there when it comes to magnetic orientation in a Coil...

I've got blisters on my hands blisters for so many motors I have winded...I use my right hand rule...I had measured themagnetic orientation and the way your image is is perfect, except you are using your left hand...I use my right.




Thanks

Ufopolitics

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Coil direction?

UFO and Tropex,

Thank you for your help, but I am still not completely clear. UFO says right hand rule and Torpex says left hand rule. Does it matter?

All my existing coils are like the pictures that Torpex posted. The arrows in the coils are what? Current flow (negative to positive flow)? What is wire 1 and wire 2? Where do I find these?

I am getting my head wrapped around putting the LM393 pulse generator circuit and the new LM317 voltage regulator circuit as replacements for the 555 and old LM317 circuit shown on UFO's circuit (updated with the missing wire) so I can build one. All the parts are ordered and I'm drawing it all out. I'm planning on a 4 MOSFET circuit. Is that a good start?

Also one of my coils is made up of 4 wires, each is 19 AWG, 500 ft. long, and the they are twisted together (Litzed) and then wound on the spool as shown in Torpex's pictures if started at the bottom of the hand and end near thumb. Would this coil be suitable?

Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Electromagnetic Orientation...

UFO and Tropex,

Thank you for your help, but I am still not completely clear. UFO says right hand rule and Torpex says left hand rule. Does it matter?

All my existing coils are like the pictures that Torpex posted. The arrows in the coils are what? Current flow (negative to positive flow)? What is wire 1 and wire 2? Where do I find these?

I am getting my head wrapped around putting the LM393 pulse generator circuit and the new LM317 voltage regulator circuit as replacements for the 555 and old LM317 circuit shown on UFO's circuit (updated with the missing wire) so I can build one. All the parts are ordered and I'm drawing it all out. I'm planning on a 4 MOSFET circuit. Is that a good start?

Also one of my coils is made up of 4 wires, each is 19 AWG, 500 ft. long, and the they are twisted together (Litzed) and then wound on the spool as shown in Torpex's pictures if started at the bottom of the hand and end near thumb. Would this coil be suitable?

Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bob

Hello Bob,

Ok, You could use either hands...hahaha

Meaning it is relative terms we all use to make it a "General Rule", But basically it consist on seen the arrangement from positive-negative direction of wires versus North-South ends.
At the end here I will post a picture of Coil connected to battery in symbols, where N-S are also written...no more hands...

However, for the first time tests, magnetic polarity does not really matter, but how to connect diodes versus positive and negative from pulsing hot side.

Related to the oscillator...The ones I have are based on 555 timers...I have not made the LM393 yet...and as far as I know, no one has come here to say how great the LM393 works as of now.
Now 4 MOSFET's should be fine, must be low RdsOn, and spec's much more ABOVE your voltage/amps source. I am supposing you are using N-Channels only for now...Not dual anti-phase, I hope.
I would like for people testing this for the first time to start from the simplest ways...
The Coil you are mentioning should be a monster, meaning great prospect!!, it is a Quad-Filar Coil... However, measure the Resistance...because if too high you will need really heavy oscillation power to pulse it at fast rates. As great Ultrafast rectifiers to control/regulate the flow accordingly. I also would like to know how many turns it has and core OD size and Height ?...In order to properly advise you Bob...


In order for this tests to be successful everything should be balanced properly...like in must electronic-electrical-electromagnetic systems...meaning, if Coil is too heavy, and oscillator and source too weak...you will get very low and poor Radiant results...
If Coil is too weak by being too high on resistance...it won't do it...
If it is too low on R because too little turns...and too heavy gauge wire...it will blow MOSFET's and possible even oscillating circuit also...

This test should be done with meters measuring almost every parameter as possible...from Batteries level to outputs...Inputs, V,A,Hertz, etc...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[ZeropointEnergy]

Diodes

Hello ZPE!

HOLD ON!!



This Diodes will blow as soon as you turn that dial!...they are low power signal diodes...they are good if, set after the UF505/NTE576 in series...Voltage does not matter, high repetitive current will increase/replace Higher Amperage...they are great as filtering once the ultra fast rectifiers are on line.
If you have the 1N4003-4004 up to 4007 they will work fine...not as fast as 576...but safe.

Yes, the speed of motor depends also on pulsations...I am making a more robust model where the rotor is made of aluminum cylinder and two magnets...stator is the main coil...split in two parts, there is a way to "trick" Radiant Field to flow/manifest right at center between two coils...However this is not the best of best of examples..

I am very glad you have almost everything ready to go!!
Anxious to hear how you've achieve it.

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hey Ufopolitics,

I will have to draw your circuit out in my notes on paper so can add the correct diodes to the diagram. I have on order the NTE576 (5 pack) and a 10 pack the NTE587, there are ultra fast switching, 200V @ 4A as back ups. I have the 1N4007 series but was going to use all ultra fast switching and the NTE587 are half the price of the NTE576.

On my description of the anti-gravity effect I did forget to mention the speed of the pulsations is also a factor in determining the revolutions
I'm looking forward to seeing that design in operation, is the aluminum is affected by eddy currents, magnetic drag or are the Radiant results inverse to conventional theory. These are springing to mind

Will keep you updated with my progress, well is 3 of us working on this on BM3, Mr Bob French is one of them

P.S - I'm found close to your MOSFETS on RS, NTE 2395. N-Channel; 0.028 Ohm (Max.); 60 V (Min.); 50A Drain; 150W; -55 to +175W.
But they do not have the NTE2397 from your diagram. I was getting worried that I needed the $50-$80 FET's and could easily see this circuit adding up.
However, the NTE2395 are only $10.50 each in a 2 pack

NTE2394 were the ones I should of grabbed. Will rectify that soon with my next parts order.

IRF740 MOSFETs x2 I have found and FR604 (600V@4A - 155ns) diodes when I checked through my parts.

Regards
Zero

[torpex]

Hi all

@Bob French
The sense of the coil certainly is a bit confused. We say the same thing but with different hands, hehe
In Left hand rule current flow positive to negative (conventional electric).
In Right hand rule current flow negative to positive (physics electrons flow).
In my previous drawing current flow + to -, it is Ufo especification. In the coil we have 2 wires, he that connects to the positive this will be the north.
But remember, i am a newbie in this thread, Ufo is the big boss.
I would like to see one of that great coil's photos.

@Ufopolitics
Our last coil's drawing is symetric 2D, according to look at him produce an optic effect in 3D, and for me vary the sense, perhaps?

My updates:
rail with 3 mosfets SSP16N50C3
Power source 36v (3 batteries of car)
LM338K regulator fixed to 13.95v

Results:
That's rocks, with one eco lightbulb of 9W and another of 15w (230v). Brilliance does not belong to the 100%, it's my guess that it belongs to the 120-130%
current drain is 300mA to 640mA.
Still I am wearing the insufficient coil, only 100 turns.
I have also increased frequency.

Ufo, what is your current drain?

Diodes:
At present i use BYV26-E. I want to try with:
31GF6 (3A, 600V, 30ns)
BYT12 (12A,1000v, 155ns)
DSI60 (60A, 600V, 35ns)

[cinan]

Hi, Cinan, I am back home again after a long trip. And feel very happy to hear you have finished the firmware and software of the PICgen already! I am interested to have them for my replication of your circuitry and for driving the UFOpolitics coil.
I have to buy photo sensitive PCB to copy the circuit board yet, not done due to the long trip away from home. Sorry.
aaron5120

Hallo Aaron,

I've tested sw today at it seems working well. I need to change Xtall on my board, as I have slower one and timing is different. Once you'll be ready, let me know. Manual settings ov Freq and D.C via encoders is not done yet and I will implement it if necessary later on.

BR

Cinan

[cinan]

Hi all

@Bob French
The sense of the coil certainly is a bit confused. We say the same thing but with different hands, hehe
In Left hand rule current flow positive to negative (conventional electric).
In Right hand rule current flow negative to positive (physics electrons flow).
In my previous drawing current flow + to -, it is Ufo especification. In the coil we have 2 wires, he that connects to the positive this will be the north.
But remember, i am a newbie in this thread, Ufo is the big boss.
I would like to see one of that great coil's photos.

@Ufopolitics
Our last coil's drawing is symetric 2D, according to look at him produce an optic effect in 3D, and for me vary the sense, perhaps?

My updates:
rail with 3 mosfets SSP16N50C3
Power source 36v (3 batteries of car)
LM338K regulator fixed to 13.95v

Results:
That's rocks, with one eco lightbulb of 9W and another of 15w (230v). Brilliance does not belong to the 100%, it's my guess that it belongs to the 120-130%
current drain is 300mA to 640mA.
Still I am wearing the insufficient coil, only 100 turns.
I have also increased frequency.

Ufo, what is your current drain?

Diodes:
At present i use BYV26-E. I want to try with:
31GF6 (3A, 600V, 30ns)
BYT12 (12A,1000v, 155ns)
DSI60 (60A, 600V, 35ns)

Hello Torpex,

very godda I have very small coil with special wire, and resonant point is around 15kHz. 25W incandescent light bulb is fully lit, 230VDC on it. Because of higher freq, DC electrolyt. caps can be used without any problems. Duty cycle is of course load dependent, an in my case is around 35%. Will do another tests once I get my semiconductors

But I still don't have any green or purple light flashes on my Panasonic ECO 230VAC bulb....
Maybe you have guys different bulbs or I am doing something wrong. Dialing speed is very slow as advised and start freq. is 80Hz, lamp starts flashing more and more and suddenly dies. When I'll climb up, it gets bright from zero. Maybe really batteries matters...

Regarding coil:

Current flow is confusing ! It flows electrically, so RIGHT hand rule apply.
Tested with DC supply and compass.

@ Ufo,

did you get time to make pictures or vid ? We want to try magnifying of flow, but I cant imagine how. If extra coil is inserted inside of pump coil, HOT induction will takes place anyway.... and we need to magnify only COLD part... how ? I am very well trained to understand irrational things

cheers,

Cinan

[torpex]

I believe that I am wrong

Hi cinan

very godda I have very small coil with special wire, and resonant point is around 15kHz. 25W incandescent light bulb is fully lit, 230VDC on it. Because of higher freq, DC electrolyt. caps can be used without any problems. Duty cycle is of course load dependent, an in my case is around 35%. Will do another tests once I get my semiconductors

what is your current drain and specificatios of our coil?

But I still don't have any green or purple light flashes on my Panasonic ECO 230VAC bulb....
Maybe you have guys different bulbs or I am doing something wrong. Dialing speed is very slow as advised and start freq. is 80Hz, lamp starts flashing more and more and suddenly dies. When I'll climb up, it gets bright from zero. Maybe really batteries matters...

It's my guess that green light do not show at a glance, appear in the video.
Purple light appear in neon bulb (power source 12v), only neon connected.I have tried to make photos or to film it but the camera does not get it.

Regarding coil:

Current flow is confusing ! It flows electrically, so RIGHT hand rule apply.
Tested with DC supply and compass.

I believe that I am wrong, I thought that Ufo's drawing was real and I checked it against the compass, but I forgot that the geographic north is the magnetic south in reality. Ufo, please, can you clarify it?

[Ufopolitics]

Hello

Hi cinan


what is your current drain and specificatios of our coil?


It's my guess that green light do not show at a glance, appear in the video.
Purple light appear in neon bulb (power source 12v), only neon connected.I have tried to make photos or to film it but the camera does not get it.


I believe that I am wrong, I thought that Ufo's drawing was real and I checked it against the compass, but I forgot that the geographic north is the magnetic south in reality. Ufo, please, can you clarify it?

Hello Torpex,

And again, this is for all the ones asking about polarity versus magnetic poles...

It is not that important, really, as setting your diodes properly...
Unless you are winding a motor...then polarity is VERY Important...Now, for just a Static Coil...means absolutely nothing...so, just start your Coil the way you please...Clockwise or Counter...whatever...BUT, make sure you decide which end will be positive...apply some small voltage and read magnetic poles...that is all about it...
Whatever Hot polarity would be...Radiant will ALWAYS be the Opposite...
In that picture I was relating exactly to that fact...N/S in RED is HOT...
And N/S in BLUE is Radiant Orientation.

All other data is completely Relative...like
"Wherever Positive terminal is that where South is..."
No!!...I could run the wire to top of Coil and have it right there, next to North...so, it is relative...
What I am trying to Convey here... is NOT to sweat over simple stuff that could be tested and verified in seconds with any compass or permanent magnet...

Now, The Diodes in that picture related to Battery polarity and MOSFET's Drain...is perfectly well...no errors

Related to Green light...You will NEVER see it with your eyes...is too fast...one frame over 60 per second...1/60 Sec...followed by a bright white shine...You must film it and replay it later after slowing your video editor also...The type of pixel resolution and video processor of your Cam must be a good quality one...a cheap camera will never make it...

Related to Purple Light...It is a very "UNSTABLE LIGHT" , it occurs only for a very low frequency rates...below 80Hz Cinan...I am talking about from 8 to 9 Hz...going up very slow...record and annotate Frequency when You see it...but should be between 10 to 30-50 Hz...then is gone...and if you keep going up...you will never see it again in that same Neon...but the orange bright light.
And again...I have made a video just to show the Bad capturing equipment tech we have so far...not advanced enough to capture that light...

RADIANT ENERGIZED NEON - YouTube

It is shown there...BUT NEVER the way it looks in Reality...never!!


Regards to all

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Cinan

Hello Cinan,

Ok...

But I still don't have any green or purple light flashes on my Panasonic ECO 230VAC bulb....
Maybe you have guys different bulbs or I am doing something wrong. Dialing speed is very slow as advised and start freq. is 80Hz, lamp starts flashing more and more and suddenly dies. When I'll climb up, it gets bright from zero. Maybe really batteries matters...

The Green light...I explained in post above...will never see it plain human sight.
The Purple strobe of plasma...will come on on very low frequency (lower than 80Hz)...above also...try starting at 9-15 Hz...slow up.
I have tried a 120V Neon...no resistance on it, like must come already soldered to one leg...if so...take it off. I do not think it will make any difference being 120 or 240 V...

Now, you wrote...

I have very small coil with special wire, and resonant point is around 15kHz. 25W incandescent light bulb is fully lit, 230VDC on it.

You mean... is that the coil you are using for this project?...that can stand 230 Volts DC ?!
Then , please, (and I think I asked you this before), can you measure Resistance on this Coil?

You've said "special wire" on it...What do you mean by special?

For what I can read and understand...You have a Coil like a Transformer, must be fine wire, and huge resistance...it will never output Radiant based on my set-up.

Cinan, could you please give me spec's of this Coil...awg, turns, resistance, OD and height...?

And last...

@ Ufo,

did you get time to make pictures or vid ? We want to try magnifying of flow, but I cant imagine how. If extra coil is inserted inside of pump coil, HOT induction will takes place anyway.... and we need to magnify only COLD part... how ? I am very well trained to understand irrational things

Sorry Cinan, no I have not got the time yet to make video...I took some pics but came out too dark.
Please, don't rush...I see you want to "jump" and have not even got the purple light yet...

If extra coil is inserted inside of pump coil, HOT induction will takes place anyway....

...Not necessarily... HOT will NOT thrive in an inner secondary Coil...IF...We do not provide the 'adequate' steel frame structure to transfer flux from Primary to inner secondary core...
HOT will get there...but very weak...Milli-volts...while Radiant/Cold will be in K Volts.
Remember Radiant medium is the Ether or Aether..Hot is not good developing Induction at Air Cores/Gaps...

Regards

Ufopolitics

[erfinder]

Hello Cinan,

Ok...



The Green light...I explained in post above...will never see it plain human sight.
The Purple strobe of plasma...will come on on very low frequency (lower than 80Hz)...above also...try starting at 9-15 Hz...slow up.
I have tried a 120V Neon...no resistance on it, like must come already soldered to one leg...if so...take it off. I do not think it will make any difference being 120 or 240 V...

Now, you wrote...



You mean... is that the coil you are using for this project?...that can stand 230 Volts DC ?!
Then , please, (and I think I asked you this before), can you measure Resistance on this Coil?

You've said "special wire" on it...What do you mean by special?

For what I can read and understand...You have a Coil like a Transformer, must be fine wire, and huge resistance...it will never output Radiant based on my set-up.

Cinan, could you please give me spec's of this Coil...awg, turns, resistance, OD and height...?

And last...



Sorry Cinan, no I have not got the time yet to make video...I took some pics but came out too dark.
Please, don't rush...I see you want to "jump" and have not even got the purple light yet...



...Not necessarily... HOT will NOT thrive in an inner secondary Coil...IF...We do not provide the 'adequate' steel frame structure to transfer flux from Primary to inner secondary core...
HOT will get there...but very weak...Milli-volts...while Radiant/Cold will be in K Volts.
Remember Radiant medium is the Ether or Aether..Hot is not good developing Induction at Air Cores/Gaps...

Regards

Ufopolitics

Sorry but I have to say that the plasma like effects that you detect in the neons can be made using a simple reed switched coil....using no external power supply! I have preformed experiments in this manner which caused the gas in the neon to transition from the standard orange, to bright orange, to pink, to bluish green to purple to white, at this point the electrodes begin to go incandescent, if you can maintain the necessary conditions, the electrodes will go from incandescent to burning white and will fuse. Its here where the gas is more or less cooked off, and the glass globe cracks or explodes. All that to say this, the phenomena you are glorifying is text book....

Anyone who has operated a pulse motor has seen the purple in the neons. With Mosfets and IGBT switches its easier to get the purple owing to their low on resistance, with BJT switches, using a pulse motor you just abruptly force the circuit to draw more current, an adjustable trigger on SG circuits makes this easy...

As for the last part about the AEther.....all I can say is maybe its best to stick with and comprehend the KNOWN, and only when we KNOW and have mastered the FUNDAMENTALS, then and only then should we move into the world of the UNKNOWN!

You might not agree with anything I just noted, but please try and be respectful when you respond, we have nothing to loose except our illusions of having the answer. By not inviting other knowledgeable individuals a word or two, you cheat yourself out of eventually receiving some important insights.


Regards

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Sir

Sir,

Yes, You are completely right...NO, I do not agree with anything you have written here, and as a matter of fact, I do find your final words as an insult to myself...
Let me ask you a very plain and simple question...

Do You Know who I AM?!
Do You Know my expertise in the fields??!!
Then, why, do you dare to come here, to my FORUM, to write all this diminishing words to my Work?!
What is the point?
To gain audience?...For people to believe "You DO know" what You are writing about?
Or is it any other "Negative Feelings" against my work that I will reserve to bring out, but that you know exactly what am referring to?

I will respond to your writings in the same attitude you have done it.

Sorry but I have to say that the plasma like effects that you detect in the neons can be made using a simple reed switched coil....using no external power supply!
I have preformed experiments in this manner which caused the gas in the neon to transition from the standard orange, to bright orange, to pink, to bluish green to purple to white, at this point the electrodes begin to go incandescent, if you can maintain the necessary conditions, the electrodes will go from incandescent to burning white and will fuse. Its here where the gas is more or less cooked off, and the glass globe cracks or explodes.

Show the Video(s) ...then I will believe you, otherwise,it will be considered a False Statement-Claim.
After all, it is a Policy from this Site to do that...Show "Proof"...or be considered Fake.

All that to say this, the phenomena you are glorifying is text book....

I am Not GLORIFYING, ABSOLUTELY NOTHING.
The Purple Plasma Ball I know perfectly WELL, is nothing new, as a matter of Fact Eric Dollard have produce it years ago...and YES, it is attributed to Radiant Energy...And it could manifested in many ways...even in a circuit without power supply...(like you have written here) not only through my set-up, Sir.

Anyone who has operated a pulse motor has seen the purple in the neons. With Mosfets and IGBT switches its easier to get the purple owing to their low on resistance, with BJT switches, using a pulse motor you just abruptly force the circuit to draw more current, an adjustable trigger on SG circuits makes this easy...

I not only have operated Pulsed Motors,...BUT have designed them and fabricate them from scratch...zero, nada.
And not talking of crappy models made out in pieces of Plexiglass or Lexan...BUT THE REAL ONES that can stand the Heat, METAL, ALUMINUM, STEEL...welded framed and ready to run..Sir.

I do not need to install Neons on my MOSFET's...Yes, I heard they have seen that light right before transistor blow...of course, it is a feedback from Radiant into your circuit.
When You are playing with HEAVY DUTY EQUIPMENT, you do not use Neons...they can not save absolutely no MOSFET's, nothing like a well placed and balanced Rectifier.

As for the last part about the AEther.....all I can say is maybe its best to stick with and comprehend the KNOWN, and only when we KNOW and have mastered the FUNDAMENTALS, then and only then should we move into the world of the UNKNOWN!

Forgive me Sir...But I do MASTER THE FUNDAMENTALS, That is exactly the reason why, I DO, CAN AFFORD TO MOVE INTO THE UNKNOWN...and very secure of my steps.

ARE YOU?

You might not agree with anything I just noted,

This is the only part of your entire post where We both come to an understanding!

but please try and be respectful when you respond,

That You Know off...Have I ever been disrespectful, Sir?...Or Do you think You are giving me any reasons to be?

we have nothing to loose except our illusions of having the answer.

Ohhh!!...That would be terrible wouldn't it?!!...
But the thing is..like I wrote before in another post (And I am completely sure you have not read me prior, but my latest post here)...I made my Models first, test them and run them, then I come up with conclusions and make my claims, Sir.
It is a very "Non Scientific Approach" to build a MOTOR in plastic and expect to perform like a real model should be made off...Heavy Metals, or at least Carbon Fibers...or worst, to write in a scrappy piece of paper a whole bunch of symbols and numbers...and then say "it will work just fine like this"...I know many that have done that and their illusions dropped below zero. That was terrible for them!!

By not inviting other knowledgeable individuals a word or two, you cheat yourself out of eventually receiving some important insights.

Sorry, but your type of approach, I don't like, at all...even if you consider yourself a "knowledgeable individual", I do not need that kind of "Help"...So, thanks for your time here, Sir.

And Goodbye