My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[ZeropointEnergy]

Performance

Hi all,

@ZeropointEnergy
Thank you for your reply. I use 7AH SLAB for 12v testing and car batteries for 36v, I prefer not to use psu.
I have also tried to charge batteries, but I consider the increment that I see that he is due to the high voltage of the peaks. My better ratio (input/output) hovers around the 80 %.


I also believe the same as you. I have also seen a curious effect, 2 violet parallel and constant lines (without arcs) between neon's legs and the plasma. My neon already shows signs of being deteriorated, the glass is blackened.

The new coil is done, I already have tried it. Drain current decreased of 390mA to 290mA.
Something rare happens with my oscillator and the range of frequency, I have to investigate it.

Bad news:
My calculations of input/output give me 85-95% performance.

I have tried with a filament bulb of 40w-220v and I can light it, but rising the input over the 40w.

Hey Torpex,

I think that can be solved by either matching the impedence between the input/output or modifying the oscillator circuit for less on time (TH) in the duty cycle. I know that experimenting with this circuit that the R1+R2 in the astable timer/PWM circuit play a larger role in the current draw than the Rb and when I changed the base resistance exponentionly higher the current draw was not linear. Did not even change as only the R1+R2 seem to affect it.

I have seen the 2 parallel lines with the plasma arcs on the legs and this effect in my build seems to start at low Hz and when you back it off slighly and turn off the lights you obtain the strobing effects along with the Radiant blight pulses/flashes that can be seen easier as I'm sure you have noticed my friend.

Speaking of blackened glass. I have a neon that is a short circuit due to only one of the legs and the whole side of the glass burnt out when I blew that and a transitor charging a sulfated battery with the SSG.

That was to express how damaged it was and I do not want to get off topic here. This is about UFO's circuit.

Therefore, I placed this on the output of the PWM circuit and the single leg lights up via Tesla's single wire transmission/impulse tech. I think this was amazing by itself since I know that this neon is a short and will not work in "ANY" other hot circuit and thus is an aspect that needs further exploration.
Other cool effect was the Radiant field that is only generated by the single leg and I will make a clip tonight to show the electromagnetic/magnetic levitation or attraction/repulsion properties.

Can also get magnets to jump in the air by the repelling effect of the Radiant field. Is NO iron used, thus has to be the Radiant field interacting with the magnetic particles in a constant state of flux in the magnet and the bloch wall of the coil. North pole of the magnet against the coils north will produce the coolest effect

Hope to have it made and on youtube in a few hrs and thanks again UFO more providing more amazing things to experiment with another Radiant energy circuit.
Any and all things Radiant would take up 24hrs of my life if I had anything to say about it

Regards
Zero

[Ufopolitics]

Great question Larry

Hello UFO
I am still trying to get caught up and only on page #9 (too many spring outdoor projects). I have a question... I hope it hasn't already been addressed, if so please guide me to the page range where it is discussed. My question is... I can see and understand the diodes blocking the hot side current during the initial hot side voltage/current rise, but the diodes do nothing against the current generated by the collapse of the magnetic field on the primary coil which will be in the opposite direction, but in the same direction as the radiant current and this hot current will not be isolated from the cold side by the diodes. I am sure I am missing something so clarification would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Regards
Larry

Hello Larry,

In order for my explanation to be understood properly, you must see this phenomena , not from the 'Old Electrical Concepts' of the B EMF or C EMF "as a single collapsing field...generating an opposite current .."
If you try to understand this from this angle-point of view...it will be very difficult...
In all this thread I have tried to explain this in every way possible, however, the way to look at it is from the Electromagnetic Interactions and NOT from the electrical flow.
First the Hot EM field does collapses, I do understand and accept that as a fact, but then that collapse originates the rise of a secondary field, opposite and much stronger, and that opposite field generates an inverse current which IS NOT the same Hot Current.
It is very little what is known about this...but it is completely described in just two words..."Electromagnetic Feedback" or "Electromagnetic Resonance" .
The two Diodes allow that reversed flow, NOT to keep cycling within the Hot Loop, creating the 'parasitical and random spikes' but to exit to a secondary circuit in an organized form, to the point of steadily lighting a CFL...or continuously powering a Brush Motor without any reversed flow, therefore running very cold, and with zero arcing in their commutators.

A "Typical" Symmetrical Electromagnetic System would be the pulsed Coil, with just a Flywheel Diode to enclose all those opposite currents within ...Now, once that you connect those two diodes, the System is No Longer Symmetrical but Asymmetrical...

I hope this explanation helped You to understand this a bit better.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[larryross]

Hello UFO
I want to apologize for the last dumb question. I am a 20 year electronic tech and I'm having a hard time wrapping my mind around your concept, but the light is coming on slowly. I am 68 years old and retired so I haven't been involved to any extent for a while and do have preconceived notions about electronics, but have a very open mind and know there has to be more than I have been taught.
I think I have found one of the things I missed. You are not powering the secondary coil with the magnetic flux link between the coils (conventional way to power the secondary), but putting the secondary coil in the circuit in series with the primary and driving it with the back/counter EMF of the primary.
I am going back and compile your instructions in to a document which will be much easier to follow. Once compiled I will email it to you for critique and proofing.

Thanks again for sharing
Regards
Larry

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

SkyWatcher,

Good to hear it. My MOSFETs are always hot. It may be that the lower voltage doesn't produce the heat. (?) I will have to try charging with 12v and see how it goes.

I always want to use a battery as the Primary. This is the only way I know to really be able to know what is happening and it seems to receive back charging.

Enjoy,

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Continued tests.

UFO et al,

I have continued the battery charging with the 36v banks (3x 12v, 16Ah). As they started out low (36.4v each), the first charge sessions (one way, then the other) was disappointing. During the time that I left them to charge, the Primary ran down and stopped (like 17v!) before I got back to them. This happened both times (each direction).

So I decided to make another 36v bank out of my 100Ah batteries which were low (35.15v), but more capacity. I charged one of the other (16Ah) banks and this went OK. The Primary started at 35.15v and ended at 34.89v (measured after one hour rest to recover). The charge bank (which I was also the charge bank of the previous session) started at 35.05v and ended at 36.7v. During this charging the charge bank rose to 38.09v within 15 minutes and then defended to 37.7v at the end of 3 3/4 hours, resting at 36.7v after an hour of stopping the charging. I had charged using 1.15A at 284Hz and 11.2% duty cycle.

Then I changed things up and started trying different settings which eventually lead me to charging at 2018Hz 1.2A and 41% duty cycle. The Primary actually rose for the first hour from 33.16v at 10:19PM up to 33.44v at 11:21 and was still at 33.39v at 12:17AM. The next time I checked it was at 4:40AM. It measured 33.00v, the frequency had risen to 2418Hz with a 40.8% duty cycle. i stopped the charging at 9:00AM and the Primary measured 34.58v at 10:15AM and the charge bank was 38.00v

That ain't too bad, not great, but...

I started another test using the previously charged bank (38.00v at rest) as the Primary and the other 16Ah bank which measured 31.36v (having recovered from around 17v). The following is data for the current session:

Primary Charge Bank
(3x 12v, 16Ah) (3x 12v, 16Ah)
38.00v 31.00v 10:26 all at rest
37.20v 39.20v 10:30 1.2A, 2030Hz, 43% duty cycle
37.00 38.60v 11:10 " " " "
36.80v 39.00v 11:40 " " " "
36.70v 40.00v 12:03 " " " "
36.40v 40.70v 1:00 " " " "

At this point I had to leave for town. I am writing this while in town and can't wait to see where it's at when I get back! They are responding to the RE charge now...getting more capacity and taking charge better.

When I have a little time, I will write about my experience with batteries being charge with RE going up and then down.

I posted the corrected and updated compiled circuit at:

Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket

Enjoy,

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Great Tests Bob!!

UFO et al,

I have continued the battery charging with the 36v banks (3x 12v, 16Ah). As they started out low (36.4v each), the first charge sessions (one way, then the other) was disappointing. During the time that I left them to charge, the Primary ran down and stopped (like 17v!) before I got back to them. This happened both times (each direction).

So I decided to make another 36v bank out of my 100Ah batteries which were low (35.15v), but more capacity. I charged one of the other (16Ah) banks and this went OK. The Primary started at 35.15v and ended at 34.89v (measured after one hour rest to recover). The charge bank (which I was also the charge bank of the previous session) started at 35.05v and ended at 36.7v. During this charging the charge bank rose to 38.09v within 15 minutes and then defended to 37.7v at the end of 3 3/4 hours, resting at 36.7v after an hour of stopping the charging. I had charged using 1.15A at 284Hz and 11.2% duty cycle.

Then I changed things up and started trying different settings which eventually lead me to charging at 2018Hz 1.2A and 41% duty cycle. The Primary actually rose for the first hour from 33.16v at 10:19PM up to 33.44v at 11:21 and was still at 33.39v at 12:17AM. The next time I checked it was at 4:40AM. It measured 33.00v, the frequency had risen to 2418Hz with a 40.8% duty cycle. i stopped the charging at 9:00AM and the Primary measured 34.58v at 10:15AM and the charge bank was 38.00v

That ain't too bad, not great, but...

I started another test using the previously charged bank (38.00v at rest) as the Primary and the other 16Ah bank which measured 31.36v (having recovered from around 17v). The following is data for the current session:

Primary Charge Bank
(3x 12v, 16Ah) (3x 12v, 16Ah)
38.00v 31.00v 10:26 all at rest
37.20v 39.20v 10:30 1.2A, 2030Hz, 43% duty cycle
37.00 38.60v 11:10 " " " "
36.80v 39.00v 11:40 " " " "
36.70v 40.00v 12:03 " " " "
36.40v 40.70v 1:00 " " " "

At this point I had to leave for town. I am writing this while in town and can't wait to see where it's at when I get back! They are responding to the RE charge now...getting more capacity and taking charge better.

When I have a little time, I will write about my experience with batteries being charge with RE going up and then down.

I posted the corrected and updated compiled circuit at:

Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket

Enjoy,

Bob

Hello Bob,

Well, real tests...I see them as pretty good final results, being the fact that there is not an specific circuit to provide a charging accurate and precise rate as the Batteries require...
I have to make a test with an old battery...to drill small holes at Neg-Pos end cells and insert a heavy copper wire (making sure that it does not touches the cells but in contact with the acid) and send Radiant Pos to Positive and Neg to Negative...They are suppose to get charged at very fast rates.

But you did a very constant and precise testing there Bob!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[ZeropointEnergy]

Radiant Field Magnetic Forces

Hey Torpex,

I think that can be solved by either matching the impedence between the input/output or modifying the oscillator circuit for less on time (TH) in the duty cycle. I know that experimenting with this circuit that the R1+R2 in the astable timer/PWM circuit play a larger role in the current draw than the Rb and when I changed the base resistance exponentionly higher the current draw was not linear. Did not even change as only the R1+R2 seem to affect it.

I have seen the 2 parallel lines with the plasma arcs on the legs and this effect in my build seems to start at low Hz and when you back it off slighly and turn off the lights you obtain the strobing effects along with the Radiant blight pulses/flashes that can be seen easier as I'm sure you have noticed my friend.

Speaking of blackened glass. I have a neon that is a short circuit due to only one of the legs and the whole side of the glass burnt out when I blew that and a transitor charging a sulfated battery with the SSG.

That was to express how damaged it was and I do not want to get off topic here. This is about UFO's circuit.

Therefore, I placed this on the output of the PWM circuit and the single leg lights up via Tesla's single wire transmission/impulse tech. I think this was amazing by itself since I know that this neon is a short and will not work in "ANY" other hot circuit and thus is an aspect that needs further exploration.
Other cool effect was the Radiant field that is only generated by the single leg and I will make a clip tonight to show the electromagnetic/magnetic levitation or attraction/repulsion properties.

Can also get magnets to jump in the air by the repelling effect of the Radiant field. Is NO iron used, thus has to be the Radiant field interacting with the magnetic particles in a constant state of flux in the magnet and the bloch wall of the coil. North pole of the magnet against the coils north will produce the coolest effect

Hope to have it made and on youtube in a few hrs and thanks again UFO more providing more amazing things to experiment with another Radiant energy circuit.
Any and all things Radiant would take up 24hrs of my life if I had anything to say about it

Regards
Zero

Hey Group,

Here is the clip I mentioned. However, I spent 2 hours uploading and writing a large explaination about this relationship to Tesla patent: 685 957 and the Eric Dollard emperiments, but YT cancelled my clip at 100%.

Has been uploaded again with a basic explaination.

Magnetic Forces generated from the Radiant field around the Neon bulb - 20th May 2012.AVI - YouTube

If I had the parts from the US I would be experimenting further but to me this is the most pivitol aspect and needs further exploration. I can see a pulse motor easily working off the Radiant magnetic force generated from the neon bulb. Just have to imagine harnessing this energy off a few 600W light to potential energy released to power a motor for example from this field.

And the compressions of energy from the vacuum generated in the bloch wall of the coil (middle of coil) has not even been tapped with a coil yet

Regards
Zero

[OrionLightShip]

@zeropointenergy

It would be great if you could try and show magnetic field lines (if any exist) generated using iron filings or by using that magnetic field viewing plastic film stuff. Great demonstration by the way!

Orion

[ZeropointEnergy]

Good idea

@zeropointenergy

It would be great if you could try and show magnetic field lines (if any exist) generated using iron filings or by using that magnetic field viewing plastic film stuff. Great demonstration by the way!

Orion

@ Orion.

That is a fantastic idea and I was going to use the iron or other small magnetic material to see from where the neon bulb produces the greatest force.
The magnetic plastic film or modifying an old PC monitor will be a great tool for this and thanks for the input

I have been using the magnet from the clip to compare the distance travelled from varying sections of the bulb. Further investigation is needed at this stage.

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

Updated Circuit

UFO et al,

I have continued the battery charging with the 36v banks (3x 12v, 16Ah). As they started out low (36.4v each), the first charge sessions (one way, then the other) was disappointing. During the time that I left them to charge, the Primary ran down and stopped (like 17v!) before I got back to them. This happened both times (each direction).

So I decided to make another 36v bank out of my 100Ah batteries which were low (35.15v), but more capacity. I charged one of the other (16Ah) banks and this went OK. The Primary started at 35.15v and ended at 34.89v (measured after one hour rest to recover). The charge bank (which I was also the charge bank of the previous session) started at 35.05v and ended at 36.7v. During this charging the charge bank rose to 38.09v within 15 minutes and then defended to 37.7v at the end of 3 3/4 hours, resting at 36.7v after an hour of stopping the charging. I had charged using 1.15A at 284Hz and 11.2% duty cycle.

Then I changed things up and started trying different settings which eventually lead me to charging at 2018Hz 1.2A and 41% duty cycle. The Primary actually rose for the first hour from 33.16v at 10:19PM up to 33.44v at 11:21 and was still at 33.39v at 12:17AM. The next time I checked it was at 4:40AM. It measured 33.00v, the frequency had risen to 2418Hz with a 40.8% duty cycle. i stopped the charging at 9:00AM and the Primary measured 34.58v at 10:15AM and the charge bank was 38.00v

That ain't too bad, not great, but...

I started another test using the previously charged bank (38.00v at rest) as the Primary and the other 16Ah bank which measured 31.36v (having recovered from around 17v). The following is data for the current session:

Primary Charge Bank
(3x 12v, 16Ah) (3x 12v, 16Ah)
38.00v 31.00v 10:26 all at rest
37.20v 39.20v 10:30 1.2A, 2030Hz, 43% duty cycle
37.00 38.60v 11:10 " " " "
36.80v 39.00v 11:40 " " " "
36.70v 40.00v 12:03 " " " "
36.40v 40.70v 1:00 " " " "

At this point I had to leave for town. I am writing this while in town and can't wait to see where it's at when I get back! They are responding to the RE charge now...getting more capacity and taking charge better.

When I have a little time, I will write about my experience with batteries being charge with RE going up and then down.

I posted the corrected and updated compiled circuit at:

Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket

Enjoy,

Bob

Hey Bob,

Great data collection as per usual and thanks for uploading the drawing with the corrected wire (looking and do not see it?). Other than changing the capacitor from 0.1uF to 0.01uF going to +VCC, parallel with the non-inverting pins and another pot added in series with pin 2 in parallel with the inverting pins/inputs.

Did I miss something mate?

P.S - Cant wait for other order I placed an order for more LM339's

Regards
Zero

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Charge through acid

UFO,

This is very interesting that we can charge directly into the acid of a battery. I would like to hear more about that. You can seal batteries and do repairs on them with hot glue guns. There is even special hot glue formulated for it, thouhg standard hot glue will work.

I was starting another test and forgot to turn down the duty cycle...and let the smoke out of at least one MOSFET. It was dark so I left it until daylight. We'll see.

Charging LA batteries has taught me a lot about them. Most are messed up from conventional and incomplete charging. One of the most common effects that I run into is that because the battery is sulphated the voltage will immediately jump up a lot. Then it will start coming down, stop, then start charging up. To me this normal when charging w/ RE.

Prpoerly charging with Radiant will de-sulphate and capacitate (a word that II made up meaning to expand the capacity) the battery. John Bedini explains that RE charrging creates a crystal matrix of the plates, transforming them, and expands their capacity and allows them to accept a charge way faster. So a 35Ah battery willis act like a 65Ah battery.

One of the things that can seal happen is that you can get false readings with the meter because as the battery's capacity expands it spreads the energy out accross this larger area and the meter shows a lower voltage even though the batgery has MORE energy in it. Ha ha. Funny. So meters don't mean anything if you don't understand the real situation facing you at the time. There are these weird factors to take into account and it is very important to condition your batteries before doing definative testing as they will be changing the way they act until they are fully conditioned. A conditioned (de-sulphated and capacitated) is an OU device when charged radiantly. It will take less to charge it than it will put out and it will charge very fast.

I have ordered some tiny heat shrink tubing which I want to slip over the CF so I can make a coil. Also, plans are formulating to get more ParaCore (I will send you a few pounds when I get it). I think these two materials in the right geometry with a standaed magnet wire coil may give us very good result...stay tuned.

Zero,

Doing the demonstration of the neon's effect on top of the coil completely invalidates it. The coil is an electromagnet. Show us again with the neon totally away from such things. It is a very interesting idea. Thank you.

All,

I posted the compiled circuit on Photobucket (see previous post for link). This circuit fit on a little 2x2 CB from Radio Shack (except for the MOSFETs, pots, and coil). I hope this will help many people to replicate UFO's fine device.

I live in Shelbyville, TN (middle TN). Does anybody on this forum live within a 4-6 hour drive? We should pull together a mini-conferene for a weekend.

Good luck,

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Charge through acid

UFO,

This is very interesting that we can charge directly into the acid of a battery. I would like to hear more about that. You can seal batteries and do repairs on them with hot glue guns. There is even special hot glue formulated for it, thouhg standard hot glue will work.

I was starting another test and forgot to turn down the duty cycle...and let the smoke out of at least one MOSFET. It was dark so I left it until daylight. We'll see.

Charging LA batteries has taught me a lot about them. Most are messed up from conventional and incomplete charging. One of the most common effects that I run into is that because the battery is sulphated the voltage will immediately jump up a lot. Then it will start coming down, stop, then start charging up. To me this normal when charging w/ RE.

Prpoerly charging with Radiant will de-sulphate and capacitate (a word that II made up meaning to expand the capacity) the battery. John Bedini explains that RE charrging creates a crystal matrix of the plates, transforming them, and expands their capacity and allows them to accept a charge way faster. So a 35Ah battery willis act like a 65Ah battery.

One of the things that can seal happen is that you can get false readings with the meter because as the battery's capacity expands it spreads the energy out accross this larger area and the meter shows a lower voltage even though the batgery has MORE energy in it. Ha ha. Funny. So meters don't mean anything if you don't understand the real situation facing you at the time. There are these weird factors to take into account and it is very important to condition your batteries before doing definative testing as they will be changing the way they act until they are fully conditioned. A conditioned (de-sulphated and capacitated) is an OU device when charged radiantly. It will take less to charge it than it will put out and it will charge very fast.

I have ordered some tiny heat shrink tubing which I want to slip over the CF so I can make a coil. Also, plans are formulating to get more ParaCore (I will send you a few pounds when I get it). I think these two materials in the right geometry with a standaed magnet wire coil may give us very good result...stay tuned.

Zero,

Doing the demonstration of the neon's effect on top of the coil completely invalidates it. The coil is an electromagnet. Show us again with the neon totally away from such things. It is a very interesting idea. Thank you.

All,

I posted the compiled circuit on Photobucket (see previous post for link). This circuit fit on a little 2x2 CB from Radio Shack (except for the MOSFETs, pots, and coil). I hope this will help many people to replicate UFO's fine device.

I live in Shelbyville, TN (middle TN). Does anybody on this forum live within a 4-6 hour drive? We should pull together a mini-conferene for a weekend.

Good luck,

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Hey Bob,

Great data collection as per usual and thanks for uploading the drawing with the corrected wire (looking and do not see it?). Other than changing the capacitor from 0.1uF to 0.01uF going to +VCC, parallel with the non-inverting pins and another pot added in series with pin 2 in parallel with the inverting pins/inputs.

Did I miss something mate?

P.S - Cant wait for other order I placed an order for more LM339's

Regards
Zero

Zero,

I replaced the 100k ohm resistor with a pot so I could go to 0 ohms for higher frequenceis. I am actually goin to try putting a third 100k pot in series there to see if I can go higher yet. Another thing I needed to test was how low a frquency the .01uF cap will allow for start up. I was using a Decade capacitor box and switched from higher capacity down to the .01uF mid tuning. But now I burned up stuff so that may get postponed awaiting parts. Bummer.

Knock yourself out, bud,

Bob

[bbem]

Lift off

After numerous tries I ditched my original Coil (18 gauge single stranded, 260 turns, CW, three layers) and replaced it with a bifilar coil (22 awg multi stranded PVC isolated, 250 turns, CW, five layers).
I must say with instant success..
Have very bright CFL bulb light (need sun glasses) at 280.5 Hz (no anomalies though).

This is the stuff I used for my circuit:
First schema of Mad Scientist, with C1 0.01 uF and VR1 47k Pot, attached to two 31DF4 7A diodes in series with two 1N4148 diodes at cold site.
Powered the circuit with LM317 converting 24V to 13.5V.
I am using three salvaged Mosfet's of type 47N60C3.
Using three 12V5Ah Lead Acid batteries for driving the system.

The coil is getting warm, the Mosfet's and LM317 are cold.

Thank you all and especially Mad Scientist and Ufo

Bert

Ps. Need order/buy neon bulbs.

[prochiro]

On board

Bbem
Great. Now you are on board. Don't change more than one thing at a time and keep records. That path will show you even more. Hot coil may be too much duty cycle or too high draw. Work with it, get Bob and I have seen that 36 volts does cause heat in places. If you cant get coil cool, back dowm to 24 volts and do your tuning and getting to know the system. When your are ready, go back up in voltage and it should be easier to fix.
Dana