My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[JohnStone]

Regarding flash tube:
Yes well. Same is my observation.
Sorry, perhaps I did'nt express clear enough. I refered to the xenon auto bulb as rugged OV protection for monster caps HV (i.e. 3µF 20KV). Such a charge would easily explode a normal flash tube.

Regarding HV cap:
- Polyester owns a better dielctric constant than other plastic materials (water would be the best !) and better HV resistance.
- I like the idea to glue the edges of the plates inside the doc pouches in order to prevent arcover through air there. It proved to be very reliable. So we can omit oil.
- The only weak part are the edges and wrinkles because of the increased electrical field at those places.
- Apart that we can easily design any voltage by adding additional pouches.
- I calcualted 10 Euro max. for 2µF 20 KV, added bunch of hours for manufactoring added.

[torpex]

At this stage you are in, just using a primary coil, it really does not matter the magnetic orientation at all...and even when inserting an isolated secondary, all you need to know is the sense, the direction you turned the primary and wind secondary identically as you wound primary.

ok, is understood.

Those are too high frequencies my friend!!, you must be able to see better results at much lower hertz...something is definitively wrong there!

Are you measuring Hertz at Input and also Output?
What is the difference between them?

I will tell you that if I get there to those frequencies you are running (at Input I am guessing, you did not specify)...I will blow in pieces my highest CFL (125Watts)

That's what worries me.
The frequency measurement is made on pin 3 of 555.
Will take the measurement at the output of diode, right?
Can it be that you use 120v bulb and I use 240v? Without load gives me around 500-550v, maybe good for 120v and insufficient to 230v?
Cinan also has to raise the frequency and he uses 240v
With one 125w CFL and 36v the current drain must be 3-3.2A, right?

Let's see what happens when you run your new bifilar coil...

New were the pictures, but it is running, I put the data from this post:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post193689
Drain current decreased of 390mA to 290mA. But do not know how far this can be good.

[Ufopolitics]

Hey Torpex...

ok, is understood.


That's what worries me.
The frequency measurement is made on pin 3 of 555.
Will take the measurement at the output of diode, right?
Can it be that you use 120v bulb and I use 240v? Without load gives me around 500-550v, maybe good for 120v and insufficient to 230v?
Cinan also has to raise the frequency and he uses 240v
With one 125w CFL and 36v the current drain must be 3-3.2A, right?


New were the pictures, but it is running, I put the data from this post:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post193689
Drain current decreased of 390mA to 290mA. But do not know how far this can be good.

Hello Torpex,

Ok, let's see...

The frequency measurement is made on pin 3 of 555.
Will take the measurement at the output of diode, right?

Ok, the frequency measurement [for output right?] yes it is at both diodes output, both.
Now, for Input Frequency just before diodes...

After you connect meters...start dialing slowly from zero frequency up...and see what your first Input measurement is>>>
I think, just think you may have some issues at the RC part of the Frequency adjustment ...between trigger resistors and small cap to ground...
what kind of Cap you are using at the R/C Circuit...Did you try replacing it with lower values?
what is your potentiometer resistance?

Related to 120 versus 240...it could be one of the issues...I will check and see if I can get a 240 CFL...to test it myself...would be interesting to know...
However, the Wattage rating is what matters...They should balance the "equation" by lowering amps...to get same W at 240V...don't you think?

Now related to Neons I know it does not matter the voltage rate...it is suppose to show purple light at very low frequencies when you do the zero-up slowly test with Frequency Meters hooked on....

Let's see what happens...

let me know

Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

Hi Ufo,
you mentioned some pages before your sadness regarding the late evolution of free energy devices. If feel same but there are good reasons to be excited as well. I explain this along some facts.

1. 40% of the global population live in or near cities - most of them in slums.
2. Same procentage live near the global shorelines. (God beware from tsunamies)
3. There are 40 countries spending more money for oil than exporting goods!!!
4. Rural exodus happens globally because people can not earn their life by producing crops by the work of their hands. They follow the energy - not to use it but to get some crumbs falling down from the owners and users and wasters of energy.
5. If people can get cheap energy in rural areas they can refine their crops there and get more money. They will not leave their homes where they feel contained. They will be able to work some hours after sunset and their children can learn for school after the effort of the day.
7. The "democratic" energy devices can be financed by microcredits.
In Bangladesh the micro credit banc startet to sell small solar panels.
First year: 300 units
Second year: 10000units
Third year: 30000 units
All units distrubuted, mounted, repaired by women and their female customeers paying them by doing higher qualified and more work.
8. I feel that apart from not destroying the environment there is an additional effect of not destroying grown social structures. I know some examples from south of Tansania where they reform these ancient grown structures very smoothly and successfuly (still not by free energy but it will help considerably). All ruled by local authorities!

I feel this is my (our) mission and we ourselves will never get short of advantages by doing so.
rgds John

[Ufopolitics]

Hello John

Hi Ufo,
you mentioned some pages before your sadness regarding the late evolution of free energy devices. If feel same but there are good reasons to be excited as well. I explain this along some facts.

1. 40% of the global population live in or near cities - most of them in slums.
2. Same procentage live near the global shorelines. (God beware from tsunamies)
3. There are 40 countries spending more money for oil than exporting goods!!!
4. Rural exodus happens globally because people can not earn their life by producing crops by the work of their hands. They follow the energy - not to use it but to get some crumbs falling down from the owners and users and wasters of energy.
5. If people can get cheap energy in rural areas they can refine their crops there and get more money. They will not leave their homes where they feel contained. They will be able to work some hours after sunset and their children can learn for school after the effort of the day.
7. The "democratic" energy devices can be financed by microcredits.
In Bangladesh the micro credit banc startet to sell small solar panels.
First year: 300 units
Second year: 10000units
Third year: 30000 units
All units distrubuted, mounted, repaired by women and their female customeers paying them by doing higher qualified and more work.
8. I feel that apart from not destroying the environment there is an additional effect of not destroying grown social structures. I know some examples from south of Tansania where they reform these ancient grown structures very smoothly and successfuly (still not by free energy but it will help considerably). All ruled by local authorities!

I feel this is my (our) mission and we ourselves will never get short of advantages by doing so.
rgds John

Hello John,

Well, I know about the way I feel, reason why I do what I am doing...don't recall that particular post, but am sure I did write about it...
I do not know if you have read my latest Thread about Symmetrical versus Asymmetrical EM Systems...but everything is right there...The sad truth of our reality, and our past, really well described by you in just eight main statements...but you and I know there is more to it, and more to come if we do nothing about it...

The truth has been that our entire kind have been betrayed, based on the greed of a 1%...and that is not fair...many generations have gone through misery for over a Century, just to benefit a 1%...Many Countries...well you know...why keep going...
It is really annoying and disgusting to get to know the real truth John...
And I tell you what, I already passed the stage of sadness...is over, is behind...all I want now is to finish my job ...what I came here to do, to accomplish...and I am about to finish...still a lot of work...but I can make it, God gave me the gifts that I have learned how to use them the right ways...and I will.
ALL Asymmetric Systems, brake the Symmetry of the "Eternal burning loop" and that has been the only way that we have learn in EE...To loop everything...constant burning energy, to pay for more energy, to keep burning...and spending more...and being miserable all our life...
I have run a Big Generator with a small DC Motor...and it works, and we never needed the Big HP Gas Engine to run it...it was a pure LIE...a Crippled Science bought out for $...sad isn't it?
Did you see the Tariel Kapanadze Motor Video?, running a Huge Generator (the ones with a hook on top Frame to be lifted with a Crane Hook) lighting up a 1000Watts Lamp?
If You haven't please watch it...It takes minutes to start running it with a Pulley-Belt Assy...the Motor keeps spinning very slowly...but turning the generator...

Now just a simple question...Do you think that ANY Symmetrical, series wound Lap Armature Motor,(or ANY other existing commercial Motor you want to recall)...could develop that Torque at those incredibly low RPM's?
The answer is "absolutely not"...it will burst in flames in the first 1/4 turn...or maybe less...1/32 of a turn, five degrees...it will burn up.
Only, an Asymmetrical Motor could do that job, John...
Why?
The answer is very simple...Single or Pair of Coils per contact segment, isolated...turn on,then it goes on idle, turned off, cool down while being substituted by a fresh and cold new Pair or group of independent coils...and so on...I could move Mountains that way...with that set-up...is simple...
This motors never overheat...but there is more...they create resonance in every coil at contact (On) and at idle (Off) they return any "excess of energy" back into the source...their consumption is minimal ...and then is more...and more benefits they have...they are endless machines...

Regards John


Ufopolitics

PD:Here is the Tariel Kapanadze Motor Video:
A Nine Volt Battery is used to start this motor!!
Fiction?...No, is real, We have been fooled John...our entire race...

Tariel Kapanadze overunity motor 02 free energy - YouTube"]Tariel Kapanadze overunity motor 02 free energy - YouTube[/URL]

[torpex]

Hello Torpex,

Ok, let's see...



Ok, the frequency measurement [for output right?] yes it is at both diodes output, both.
Now, for Input Frequency just before diodes...

After you connect meters...start dialing slowly from zero frequency up...and see what your first Input measurement is>>>
I think, just think you may have some issues at the RC part of the Frequency adjustment ...between trigger resistors and small cap to ground...
what kind of Cap you are using at the R/C Circuit...Did you try replacing it with lower values?
what is your potentiometer resistance?

Hello @Ufo,

This is my oscilator setup:
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...y-ufolowhz.jpg

R4.- Freq.
R7.- dtc

C1 type: MKT
C1 several values: 22n, 10n, 15n, 47n 82n, 100n, 150n
R6.- Short to 680 ohm to raise freq. range.
R5.- 680 ohm (for low dtc)

Frequency measurements:
Pin 3 to 80Hz:
Output diodes at 740-750Hz, CFL flashing
No load: 280Hz

Pin 3 to 160Hz:
Output diodes at 1520, CFL flashing
No load: 560Hz

Related to 120 versus 240...it could be one of the issues...I will check and see if I can get a 240 CFL...to test it myself...would be interesting to know...
However, the Wattage rating is what matters...They should balance the "equation" by lowering amps...to get same W at 240V...don't you think?

My setup gives 50-80v at low hz and my bulb need 95-100v to start. With low hz the bulb flashing.
As I climb the frequency... the voltage rises to approximately 550V (above 100kHz)

[torpex]

Hi all

Tests CFL bulb 9w 220-240v:
"Precision luxmeter" (solar cell with meter) gives me 0.66mA. I adjusted to this reference the same level and gives me 290-300v DC across capacitor bulb.

Drain current in 12v setup is 1.10-1.20A.
Drain current with 12v inverter is 1.14A.

Thanks JohnStone

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Torpex!

Hello @Ufo,

This is my oscilator setup:
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...y-ufolowhz.jpg

R4.- Freq.
R7.- dtc

C1 type: MKT
C1 several values: 22n, 10n, 15n, 47n 82n, 100n, 150n
R6.- Short to 680 ohm to raise freq. range.
R5.- 680 ohm (for low dtc)

Frequency measurements:
Pin 3 to 80Hz:
Output diodes at 740-750Hz, CFL flashing
No load: 280Hz

Pin 3 to 160Hz:
Output diodes at 1520, CFL flashing
No load: 560Hz


My setup gives 50-80v at low hz and my bulb need 95-100v to start. With low hz the bulb flashing.
As I climb the frequency... the voltage rises to approximately 550V (above 100kHz)

Hey Torpex,

Just at first sight...by looking at the diagram you linked...I see one big error.

You are running out of leg 3 of 555 the 100 Ohms direct to the two Gates of Q1-Q2, and using just one resistor (that I see is too low on resistance) to bias the gate (re-open the switch)...this causes stress in your pulsing regulating IC (555) and your MOSFET's are NOT running even with this circuit. The closer MOSFET [Q1] (physically) to the 100 ohms would work more than Q2...not good, not evenly switching my friend.

Solution is simple, add a 330 ohms to EACH GATE between 100 (R1) and gate, and then you also have to add another R3 for Q2. Another thing, R3 has to be attached after 330ohms, not before to 100 ohms R1...

If you look at my circuit will notice that each MOSFET have its own resistor of 330ohms and R3 of 47Kohms...
I don't think your MOSFET's are closing the circuit properly with just 10K...to me is too low value...
But wait a minute...I just found something else!...
You are running this MOSFET's the 822's you posted and I gave you the spec's? with just 12 Volts??!!
I really have no idea how you are able to even flash that CFL my friend!!

You need more power to excite that bifilar coil!!
The Source must be at least 24V, Torpex!!
The thing is you are trying to make it without a voltage regulator...is Ok...but you need to switch that coil with more voltage than 12 volts...and you are not getting even 12V...because some voltage is being used by timer and regulating resistors circuit...
That is your problem my friend!
You need a voltage regulator circuit and make higher power supply, at least 24V to drive those Mosfet's.
Now you should measure with a Volt meter the Drain legs of Q1-Q2 separate, one first, then the other, with positive to other meter probe, while circuit is pulsing low...and see if it comes down to zero at times off, do it at very low, low pulses...or at least if it decays at very low voltages (Milli Volts)
I do not think they are opening the switch properly...or closing it...it could be both...because you need two more resistors 330 to each, this balances the signal equally to both gates...
If you do not understand message me private

Regards

Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Torpex Circuit Repaired

Hello @Ufo,

This is my oscilator setup:
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...y-ufolowhz.jpg

R4.- Freq.
R7.- dtc

C1 type: MKT
C1 several values: 22n, 10n, 15n, 47n 82n, 100n, 150n
R6.- Short to 680 ohm to raise freq. range.
R5.- 680 ohm (for low dtc)

Frequency measurements:
Pin 3 to 80Hz:
Output diodes at 740-750Hz, CFL flashing
No load: 280Hz

Pin 3 to 160Hz:
Output diodes at 1520, CFL flashing
No load: 560Hz


My setup gives 50-80v at low hz and my bulb need 95-100v to start. With low hz the bulb flashing.
As I climb the frequency... the voltage rises to approximately 550V (above 100kHz)

Hello Torpex,

I believe that with all the translation problems you may have not understood Nada...

So I made this repaired circuit for you below...

However, I will love to hear the opinion (of my fix) from other Electronic Engineers around please...really appreciated, like Cinan or Larry...or anyone is willing to look at it...
I set a Diode D3 to protect MOSFET's from feedback...it could be the same Diodes you are using at Coil. rated over 100V at least.
I erase some of your previews connections and made independent wiring to each Gate from R1(100ohms)
Also added another R3 (2), meaning whatever value works better (I have 47K) both have to be same value R3=R3(2) in order to open Mosfet's switch.
Added a second Battery set just to run your Mosfet's...24V Minimum.

NOW, here is where I really tell you this...If your Mosfet's go bad, and short Gate with Drain (it DOES Happens)...then you will fry your 555 and more...That is why I like the Voltage Regulators...and not two supplies in one...and the thing is, you can not set a diode between Gate and leg 3 of 555 ( including resistors)...so watch mosfet's temperature very close...PLEASE!!
The only way to be able to run this circuit completely safe is through Opto-Isolators between 555 leg 3 and Gate, I mentioned that before in previews posts. Then you could rise the voltage up to 400 Volts as MOSFET'S allows.

I do not want your circuit to get damaged because of my "fix"!

Ok, Regards and pray ...

No, it will be fine...I know it will work out now
JUST DRIVE IT UP SLOWLY!!...and do not get to too High KHertz this time!

Regards

Ufopolitics

PD: This is just a Fix on your switching system...I have NOT looked at your oscillating part...is different than mine...we will get there later, let's try this fix first.
Pray again...

[torpex]

Hey Torpex,

Just at first sight...by looking at the diagram you linked...I see one big error.

You are running out of leg 3 of 555 the 100 Ohms direct to the two Gates of Q1-Q2, and using just one resistor (that I see is too low on resistance) to bias the gate (re-open the switch)...this causes stress in your pulsing regulating IC (555) and your MOSFET's are NOT running even with this circuit. The closer MOSFET [Q1] (physically) to the 100 ohms would work more than Q2...not good, not evenly switching my friend.

Solution is simple, add a 330 ohms to EACH GATE between 100 (R1) and gate, and then you also have to add another R3 for Q2. Another thing, R3 has to be attached after 330ohms, not before to 100 ohms R1...

If you look at my circuit will notice that each MOSFET have its own resistor of 330ohms and R3 of 47Kohms...
I don't think your MOSFET's are closing the circuit properly with just 10K...to me is too low value...
But wait a minute...I just found something else!...
You are running this MOSFET's the 822's you posted and I gave you the spec's? with just 12 Volts??!!
I really have no idea how you are able to even flash that CFL my friend!!

You need more power to excite that bifilar coil!!
The Source must be at least 24V, Torpex!!
The thing is you are trying to make it without a voltage regulator...is Ok...but you need to switch that coil with more voltage than 12 volts...and you are not getting even 12V...because some voltage is being used by timer and regulating resistors circuit...
That is your problem my friend!
You need a voltage regulator circuit and make higher power supply, at least 24V to drive those Mosfet's.
Now you should measure with a Volt meter the Drain legs of Q1-Q2 separate, one first, then the other, with positive to other meter probe, while circuit is pulsing low...and see if it comes down to zero at times off, do it at very low, low pulses...or at least if it decays at very low voltages (Milli Volts)
I do not think they are opening the switch properly...or closing it...it could be both...because you need two more resistors 330 to each, this balances the signal equally to both gates...
If you do not understand message me private

Regards

Ufopolitics

Hello @Ufo,

Sorry, I have not explained well. Only use the oscillator section. The output is 2 rails mosfets (3xSSP16N50C3 and 3xSSP2N60B), as you advised me.
http://www.cacharreo.com.es/foro/dow...=137&mode=view
Power source 36v (3 batteries of car)
LM338K regulator fixed to 13.95v
31GF6 Diodes

The result with 12v and 36v is proportional. I use 12v for test, but lit the bulb as I posted before.

[Ufopolitics]

Oh man!!!

Hello @Ufo,

Sorry, I have not explained well. Only use the oscillator section. The output is 2 rails mosfets (3xSSP16N50C3 and 3xSSP2N60B), as you advised me.
http://www.cacharreo.com.es/foro/dow...=137&mode=view
Power source 36v (3 batteries of car)
LM338K regulator fixed to 13.95v
31GF6 Diodes

The result with 12v and 36v is proportional. I use 12v for test, but lit the bulb as I posted before.

TORPEEEX!!

Man...you have no idea how long it took me to fix your circuit!!!...

Is Ok, no problems...
Hey, did you forget JUST in this new diagram the 100 Ohms R1 or you are not using it??
The other thing is, I like to run direct wiring from the 100 end to each 330 resistot to MOSFET Gate, not like you show here...signal circuitry have to be done pretty "independent"...no short-cuts to save making more wiring. However that should not be the problem you have...

You must use the R1!

If, you do use R1 (100 Ohms) and this new diagram looks great...then the problem is your oscillation circuit my friend...nowhere else to look.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[torpex]

TORPEEEX!!

Man...you have no idea how long it took me to fix your circuit!!!...

Is Ok, no problems...
Hey, did you forget JUST in this new diagram the 100 Ohms R1 or you are not using it??
The other thing is, I like to run direct wiring from the 100 end to each 330 resistot to MOSFET Gate, not like you show here...signal circuitry have to be done pretty "independent"...no short-cuts to save making more wiring. However that should not be the problem you have...

You must use the R1!

If, you do use R1 (100 Ohms) and this new diagram looks great...then the problem is your oscillation circuit my friend...nowhere else to look.

Regards

Ufopolitics

I regret the extra work, i know you are busy.
The good news is that the fix has worked before.
I've been posting my progress and I thought you knew.
Remember that I sent you a pm. Thanks you for your help.

I use R1
I also tested with 48v
The strange thing is that I also tested with a Frequency Generator with the same results.

I think I should try the LM339 or maybe other mosfets.

If you can test for me, or someone that works
I would like to know what voltage the bulb lights
When tuned which is drain current, before and after starting bulb, if there is a constant or increasing.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Torpex

I regret the extra work, i know you are busy.

It is Ok...I've got all the time in the World...
Don't worry about that, no problem...smile, be happy...

The good news is that the fix has worked before.

But, But, But that is GRRREAT!!...so...why you worry so much?
really do not understand that part...

I've been posting my progress and I thought you knew.
Remember that I sent you a pm.

Of course I know that you were successful, of course I remeber your PM...but then you've said you had some issues, problems...

Thanks you for your help.

My pleasure Torpex, all my pleasure, always

I use R1

Great

I also tested with 48v

Even better

The strange thing is that I also tested with a Frequency Generator with the same results.

It is ok, as long as you are generating the specific required signal...it will do it with any "apparatus"...why do you worry?

I think I should try the LM339 or maybe other mosfets.

You could do that, try Bob French-Mad Scientist circuit, I will also, it will just guarantee more success.

If you can test for me, or someone that works

Torpex, you are the only one that can test your own set-up...I really do not trust 100% a "Virtual" Software Simulator...there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING like the Real Actual Live Model.

I would like to know what voltage the bulb lights

The Bulb starts flashing with Radiant at low pulses of 100Hz accelerating pulses up to 300Hz...I start getting a steady lighting at 500-800 Hz, then what starts increasing is just the brightness...I am talking about INPUT from HOT, now Cold readings could climb all the way to 2000Hz, it depends what wattage lamp I am using (Your Load)
The Input Voltage that starts to flash is around 0.2-0.5V

Max full lighting up to 4.0V MAX AT INPUT [Meter reading at Drain-Positive, before Diodes, current entering Coil...](Light going cracking, too much brightness)...NOW, OUTPUT (after Diodes) is in the 200V...
Remember I use 120V Lamp...

When tuned which is drain current, before and after starting bulb, if there is a constant or increasing.

Same as yours...Start I get 300-400 Ma...all the way to 800 Ma MAX...
Now I could drive it to almost 1.5A...but then Lamp starts to crack glass (borderline to blow it)...This lamps are really good!!...they tell you by hearing this crackling inside...I have got to the point of blowing the Electrolytic inside electronic ballast and had to replace them...lamp keeps going after replacement with a higher voltage, same capacitance cap. Example: Cap was rated 33uf 200V, I replaced with 33uf 400V, now is fine...it holds more "crackling"... that is just an example, and I am talking about electronic ballast Cap, NOT in our pulsing circuit.

CONSTANT?...This current-voltage is NEVER constant!!, is very, very dynamic, Up, down...raise,fall, besides our meters can not read Her properly...I believe until we find a way to store it properly and put "Her" in a "relaxation mode"...She will keep being a very "Hyper, Jumpy Lady"!!!...

I really do not understand why 'you worry so much'..?...You are doing great!!
I really do not understand what is actually "The Problem" you have...

Or you are not getting a full brightness?...is that the problem?
I have read you every post, and every spec and circuit...I see your spec's are fine.
Now remember I told you those MOSFET's You are using were SUPER SLOW, remember?
Therefore, you are NOT going to get a very good switching at Ultra fast pulsing never , EVER, with them...their RdsOn is supper high in resistance, that is BAD, not good!!, they need to be rated in the Milli-Ohms...0.02 Ohms...or so.
They will NOT respond to fast pulsing, therefore you will never get full brightness.
So, yes, replace them!!

Regards and Cheers


Ufopolitics

[ZeropointEnergy]

No Guidelines then just fun.

Hello ZPE,



ZPE , honestly, I would not like to play the "Boss" roll here...or a "Guru", like someone called me already...

I really love the innovations...or to get "The Best" out of the whole thread, like Bob did...and make it happen!!
I am still using the old 555 timer...I have bought the (2) LM393...and also the LM339...I have all components but...have not found time yet, and I know it is much better than the one I have...
I have been working hard on the Motor set-up lately...and in the videos...they both take more than my extra time...plus writing-reading here...lol
The 555 have the inconvenience I can only accelerate up to a point...after that it turns almost linear...not good!...I can not adjust duty cycle either...so I must make the LM set up...I want to build two, one with several N-Channels and just one Drain out...and the other one usin Cinan's double N-Channels to obtain dual anti-phase channel drains on Positive-Negative...However I am going to wait for that till Cinan burns some Mosfet's first...

Now, You DO have studied that purple light very close, don't you?!...It seems you are trying to "Glorify that light"!!??...
Be careful, my friend!!...someone could come over and accuse You on "glorifying" that purple light!!

HA HA HA HA...LOL

Regards my friend!!

Ufopolitics

Hey UFO,

First off, if you wanted a certain circuit made to replicate all your variables or a Bob's combination circuit from here I just gave you the option if you had a preference
Guru, lol. Well I found that very offensive to the people reading the post and to insinuate that all reading, or posting are mindless sheep. But I try not to waste energy on things I have no control of.

I'm having fun experimenting with a few PWM circuits with the 555 timer still, order from the US arrived finally and the NTE diodes have reduced the frequency I obtain the Radiant not to 6-7Hz as any lower the wave is no longer a square wave signal, has been 2Hz but was not effective.

I have all the parts for Bob's combination circuit and after I troubleshoot the circuit in a breadboard I will post up a YT clip of the alternate PWM circuit.

Glorifying the light, that is an understatement Well I see that main aspect of the Radiant as the green gas, not the purple my friend as the gas I recorded over a year ago and the purple flash was never contained till I utilized a neon and thus my bias.

Therefore, can you help answer my questions on my observations so I know if I made an error in my analysis?
Since there is no EE textbook to read on Radiant energy oscillations that obtain these anomolies.
I have read the physics theory on random fluctuations gate in zeropoint-energy from the quantum vacuum, but these are theories and not a tangable test that one can conduct to quantify.

Regards
Zero

[ZeropointEnergy]

Working?

G'Day UFO
I have now at last read all the posts here. I wanted to do so before I started to build and I just could not wait to order parts So I did so as soon as I was able to see what was needed
First I would like to thank you for starting this thread

I Actually discovered this site when Bob French and Dana on BM2 were discussing what they were learning from you and am very glad to be here

I am not an EE I am a simple Joiner(Wood worker)retired but for the last 5 years or so I have been looking for a way I could build an electric motor to drive a car But every forum I have joined (Including this one) has had NAYSAYERS or as I would call them trouble makers that seem to try to direct others away from what is being shown to them and therefore the ones taking the lead have spat the dummy so to speak, and have lost interest in continuing to show what they know
I am really glad that you perservered and stayed on this site
I appreciate all those on this thread with knowledge expanding on what they have learned from you and helped others like myself to be able to understand these things.
Now that I have read all the posts up to date I already have purchased the components to start to build as you have described. I will be building with the 555 timer first as I have purchased those parts.
When I finish building I will show what I have built and of course will be able to show all my friends who think of me a MAD SCIENTIST(I mean no disrespect to Mad scientist here )
One of my friends about 5 years ago said to me How am I going to do these things when I did not know even how to use a multimeter

I am truly glad to be here

All my friends call me Kogs
Kindest Regards To you and all others here
Kogs

Hey Kogs,

Glad to see you here mate and that you finished reading all the content.

Regards
Zero