My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[ZeropointEnergy]

Simple PWM 555 timer circuit

Hi @ZeropointEnergy,


I do not understand what you mean... Are you referring to the generic circuit of the 555 or one in particular?
In my current circuit, I can regulate frequency and pulse width, but I have observed anomalies, what did you mean that? What is your current circuit?
You already have the parts to assemble the new circuit?
Where are you from?

On the other hand I've been playing directly with a frequency generator, the results are the same. Light bulbs with energy cost but similar. My FG drops to only 10% duty cycle.

The best performance I have it on 5.6 kHz and 42 kHz. I think something is wrong

The new video I've seen it but I need to see it easier, not easy for me to understand because the difficulty of the language.

Hey Torpex,

Many questions, lol. I will try answer most and sorry for the late reply as real life has been busy the last few days.

I use a basic PWM circuit that I calculated to range from 0Hz to 1.2kHz based on a 555 timer with only a diode from pin 7 to ground.

With that circuit the duty cycle can be set under 50% and I have it set to 11% time high in a 37ms time period.

I do have all the parts to make UFO's original circuit and Bob's combination circuit and both are progressing

I'm from Australia and thus may be a language barrier. I hope that you translated the information for the TY clip and it generated a clearer understanding. Or was it the content?

That is a very high frequency to light your CFL's and does the neon take more than 50Hz to light? I only used a function generator at uni a few times and my experience with them is limited, sorry.

Hope that helped, albeit late

Regards
Zero

[Stator]

Would that look something like this, or am I totally off?
link to eBay (That is polystyrene, but not that relevant in this case, perhaps).

[Stator]

Sorry for double posting, I meant to quote this:

Regarding flash tube:
Yes well. Same is my observation.
Sorry, perhaps I did'nt express clear enough. I refered to the xenon auto bulb as rugged OV protection for monster caps HV (i.e. 3µF 20KV). Such a charge would easily explode a normal flash tube.

Regarding HV cap:
- Polyester owns a better dielctric constant than other plastic materials (water would be the best !) and better HV resistance.
- I like the idea to glue the edges of the plates inside the doc pouches in order to prevent arcover through air there. It proved to be very reliable. So we can omit oil.
- The only weak part are the edges and wrinkles because of the increased electrical field at those places.

(My posts do not update when I edit them)

[larryross]

Hello UFO and Torpex
UFO you had asked me to comment on the circuit. First I would like to state that it seems that some on here don't know the meaning of replicate. To me to replicate means to make an exact copy of something. If you make one change from the original then it isn't a replication, thus you can't expect the same results. If you change anything in an electronic circuit, it can change how entire circuit functions. 90% of the post on this thread involve changes of one kind or another.

Regarding torpex's circuit... UFO unless I am missing something I think the only difference your changes would make in torpex circuit is it might give a very small higher voltage on the gate of the mosfets because of the difference in the values of R1+330Ohm and 47kOhm resistors compared to the 100Ohm and 10kOhm. If torpex changed his R1 resistor to 270Ohm and his R3 to 24kOhm, it would be the same electrically as yours. On the other hand I still maintain that if you are replicating someones work you should build exactly like theirs then if it works, start your own thread titled "How I changed UFO's motor" and make your changes (if you feel they are needed) there. JMHO

Regards
Larry

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Larry

Hello UFO and Torpex
UFO you had asked me to comment on the circuit. First I would like to state that it seems that some on here don't know the meaning of replicate. To me to replicate means to make an exact copy of something. If you make one change from the original then it isn't a replication, thus you can't expect the same results. If you change anything in an electronic circuit, it can change how entire circuit functions. 90% of the post on this thread involve changes of one kind or another.

Regarding torpex's circuit... UFO unless I am missing something I think the only difference your changes would make in torpex circuit is it might give a very small higher voltage on the gate of the mosfets because of the difference in the values of R1+330Ohm and 47kOhm resistors compared to the 100Ohm and 10kOhm. If torpex changed his R1 resistor to 270Ohm and his R3 to 24kOhm, it would be the same electrically as yours. On the other hand I still maintain that if you are replicating someones work you should build exactly like theirs then if it works, start your own thread titled "How I changed UFO's motor" and make your changes (if you feel they are needed) there. JMHO

Regards
Larry

Hey Larry!!

Larry, I agree with You in a 100% about what a replication concept is...and all consequences it may bring for not doing it so...
However I understand also that we are here from all over the world...and I have placed some parts that are accessible only in certain places, even though they could be cross referenced with local manufacturers, unfortunately this not always occurs successfully...

Related to Torpex circuit it was my response to a circuit He posted by mistake...it was not complete...so He rectified later...You are right there again...if you compare it with his latest one...but going to previous post than mine...you will find it..


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hey ZPE!!

Hey UFO,

First off, if you wanted a certain circuit made to replicate all your variables or a Bob's combination circuit from here I just gave you the option if you had a preference
Guru, lol. Well I found that very offensive to the people reading the post and to insinuate that all reading, or posting are mindless sheep. But I try not to waste energy on things I have no control of.

I'm having fun experimenting with a few PWM circuits with the 555 timer still, order from the US arrived finally and the NTE diodes have reduced the frequency I obtain the Radiant not to 6-7Hz as any lower the wave is no longer a square wave signal, has been 2Hz but was not effective.

I have all the parts for Bob's combination circuit and after I troubleshoot the circuit in a breadboard I will post up a YT clip of the alternate PWM circuit.

Glorifying the light, that is an understatement Well I see that main aspect of the Radiant as the green gas, not the purple my friend as the gas I recorded over a year ago and the purple flash was never contained till I utilized a neon and thus my bias.

Therefore, can you help answer my questions on my observations so I know if I made an error in my analysis?
Since there is no EE textbook to read on Radiant energy oscillations that obtain these anomolies.
I have read the physics theory on random fluctuations gate in zeropoint-energy from the quantum vacuum, but these are theories and not a tangable test that one can conduct to quantify.

Regards
Zero

Hey ZPE!

Hey that is great that you got the parts!!...so then we will see video soon!

I like the LM 339 Circuit, it can do what the 555 can't...I will tell you when I built it.
Now I like the 555, and am intending not to disassemble it ever!!...
I will build a new one from scratch again...

ZPE, related to your opinion on Green-Purple Lights...I agree with you there...and you have been studying this lights and effects for a long time by now...to the point I may say you are a Master of Radiant Energy Light...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

Would that look something like this, or am I totally off?
link to eBay (That is polystyrene, but not that relevant in this case, perhaps).

Hi Stator,
sorry - misunderstood. I talked of my home brew polyester caps (see my link above pointing to a doc). I make them with document pouches and they are made of polyester. I like to mis-use parts and materials for tasks they were not dedicated for.
Polystyrene is a modified polystyrol.

If you edit a post go to "edit / go advanced" then updating is OK.
rgds John

[Stator]

Thank you

Aha, now I understand. Somehow I overlooked the links.
Nice work you did there.
Using various materials & parts for unintended uses can be educational and save money, prototyping etc. It's nice.

Edit: Seems to work the way you suggested, thanks.

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Rebuilt.

UFO et al,

OK. I finally got parts and rebuilt the circuit. I replaced the .1uF cap with a .01uF cap, but the lowest frequency that I could get was around 600Hz, even with 300 ohms of resistanec in the pots.

But it started right up and immediately took my charge batteries from 33.6v to 37.2v, thento 38.0v after two minutes. The Primary dropped from 37.2v to 36.6v and remained there until as I was slowly going up...it stopped. Now it pegs the 2A meter when before it was using .5A...obviously a non-pulsing situation. Auuuugh.

It started out around 600Hz and at 766Hz (input) italics was at 1.16kHz (output), then just after this it blew. Anyone have an idea why? The only thing I did at this timw was replace the cap with a lower value and replace the LM339. I am going to add a little more capacitance (maybe another .01uF).

It seems to work so well when it runs.

I have also started making the CF coil. I got some 3/64" heat shink and am threading. The CF throuhg it with a needle and magnet (to pull it along). It is slow going, but will be foolproof insolation. I heaated a test piece w/ the CF in it and it worked well. I heated the CF with a flame to see if the heat would affect it. It glow red hot, but didn't seem to affect it at all.

Bob

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi bob, I don't know what part blew in your circuit, though I am still testing battery charging with my circuit and already blew one mosfet because i accidentally removed one wire from one of the output diodes and instantly fried the mosfet, it started to heat up as a result.
I now have a neon across the drain and source, though I don't know if that will help for future mistakes.
I am weary of powering a cfl, because I know at higher power input levels, the cfl may not always suck all the radiant pulses up and could feedback to the mosfet, even though they are salvaged, I still don't like blowing parts that are hard to replace.
peace love light
tyson

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Bob!!

UFO et al,

OK. I finally got parts and rebuilt the circuit. I replaced the .1uF cap with a .01uF cap, but the lowest frequency that I could get was around 600Hz, even with 300 ohms of resistanec in the pots.

But it started right up and immediately took my charge batteries from 33.6v to 37.2v, thento 38.0v after two minutes. The Primary dropped from 37.2v to 36.6v and remained there until as I was slowly going up...it stopped. Now it pegs the 2A meter when before it was using .5A...obviously a non-pulsing situation. Auuuugh.

It started out around 600Hz and at 766Hz (input) italics was at 1.16kHz (output), then just after this it blew. Anyone have an idea why? The only thing I did at this timw was replace the cap with a lower value and replace the LM339. I am going to add a little more capacitance (maybe another .01uF).

It seems to work so well when it runs.

I have also started making the CF coil. I got some 3/64" heat shink and am threading. The CF throuhg it with a needle and magnet (to pull it along). It is slow going, but will be foolproof insolation. I heaated a test piece w/ the CF in it and it worked well. I heated the CF with a flame to see if the heat would affect it. It glow red hot, but didn't seem to affect it at all.

Bob

Hey Bob!!

First, am sorry about the bad news with your circuit...
It is starting too high, Bob...At 600 Hz is too much!
This is a "Process" to follow like a religious ritual...

First you have to develop the Hot Field, and RE starts coming in...I would say minimum 100 to 200 Hz from Hot.
What happened was that both field too suddenly started up its process, and your circuit received very fast negative feedback from both currents.
Need to put a Diode (same you are using) between Drain and Negative like this [Drain]---l<---[Negative].
Your frequency starts too high because there is a problem in your Pot-Resistors-Cap to ground (the RC Tank)...has to be re-arranged.
If you lower the Cap value to lower, then have to increase the resistors around Pot...or increase Pot. Honestly am not sure with that circuit...

Have you tried a 0.1 Tantalum Cap (they are polarized, so make sure you look into that) replacing the 0.01?
Tantalums are much better, but hard to find in those spec's.

It is a shame after it was running so great!!
But the battery charging was awesome!!...so Cheer Up!!

I have burn many Mosfet's and other components...this are experiments...everything is expected.

I can wait to hear from you on the CF Coil!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Sky!

Hi folks, Hi bob, I don't know what part blew in your circuit, though I am still testing battery charging with my circuit and already blew one mosfet because i accidentally removed one wire from one of the output diodes and instantly fried the mosfet, it started to heat up as a result.
I now have a neon across the drain and source, though I don't know if that will help for future mistakes.
I am weary of powering a cfl, because I know at higher power input levels, the cfl may not always suck all the radiant pulses up and could feedback to the mosfet, even though they are salvaged, I still don't like blowing parts that are hard to replace.
peace love light
tyson

Hello Skywatcher!

Sorry about the Mosfet...
Neon is not going to do much either...
Like I told Bob, set a diode (same type you are using on coil) between Negative-Drain= [Drain]--l<---[Neg]
I never had a problem with CFL's except blowing their 33 uF Cap...rated at 200V...but replaced with same value 400V...lights great.
Now, I do not use below 23 Watts with my set-up (36V Input)...so I really do not know...
If you remove (open) the circuit to Radiant Output while is On...You will get all RE Spikes into your circuit...and get Mosfet's on fire.

I hope you won't have any more trouble.

Regards

Ufopolitics

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Rebuilt.

UFO et al,

OK. I finally got parts and rebuilt the circuit. I replaced the .1uF cap with a .01uF cap, but the lowest frequency that I could get was around 600Hz, even with 300 ohms of resistanec in the pots.

But it started right up and immediately took my charge batteries from 33.6v to 37.2v, thento 38.0v after two minutes. The Primary dropped from 37.2v to 36.6v and remained there until as I was slowly going up...it stopped. Now it pegs the 2A meter when before it was using .5A...obviously a non-pulsing situation. Auuuugh.

It started out around 600Hz and at 766Hz (input) italics was at 1.16kHz (output), then just after this it blew. Anyone have an idea why? The only thing I did at this timw was replace the cap with a lower value and replace the LM339. I am going to add a little more capacitance (maybe another .01uF).

It seems to work so well when it runs.

I have also started making the CF coil. I got some 3/64" heat shink and am threading. The CF throuhg it with a needle and magnet (to pull it along). It is slow going, but will be foolproof insolation. I heaated a test piece w/ the CF in it and it worked well. I heated the CF with a flame to see if the heat would affect it. It glow red hot, but didn't seem to affect it at all.

Bob

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

Back and running.

UFO et al,

Good news. In taking the board off to inspect for a reason for stoppage I found that there was corrosion on some of the solder joints, especially at the VR. I then remembered that it had gotten rained on shoertly before it blew the first time. Having cleaned all areas between the joints and replaced the LM339 I'm off and running.

Starting my tuning at 270Hz(input side, 405Hz output side), I adjusted (frequency only) up to 704Hz (input side, 740Hz output side) with 0 resisance on pots and using .03uF cap. Then I raised the duty cyle from 8% to 19.6% to increase charging.

With the 8% duty cycle drawing 425mA, the Primary dropped from 37.1v at rest to 36.7v under load and the charge bank went from 34.54v at rest to 37.2v immediately. As I tuned over the next 25 minutes, the Primary rose to 36.8v (from 36.6v) aas the draw fell from 425mA to 200mA and the charging went to 37.9v then steadily dropped to 37.4v as the mAs dropped. I then adjusted the duty cycle to 19.6%. The Primary dropped to 36.6v and
the charge bank rose to 38.1v. Coil was 95-97 degrees whole time (ambient = 94.5).
After an hour the Primary has dropped to 36.1v and the charge bank is at 37.6v. I assume that it is being desuphate at this point. But the frequency reads 282Hz (input side, 706Hz output side), the duty cycle has moved slightly up to 20.3%, and the draw has encreased slightly to about 800mA. I don't know what to make of that.

An interesting observation is that the powered ParaCore that I pored into the coil center is dancing on top. I had noted how the level had dropped after using it figuring that it was packing because of the oscilation vibration. Here I see the particles literally jumping up and down...cute.

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Sweet Testing!!

UFO et al,

Good news. In taking the board off to inspect for a reason for stoppage I found that there was corrosion on some of the solder joints, especially at the VR. I then remembered that it had gotten rained on shoertly before it blew the first time. Having cleaned all areas between the joints and replaced the LM339 I'm off and running.

Starting my tuning at 270Hz(input side, 405Hz output side), I adjusted (frequency only) up to 704Hz (input side, 740Hz output side) with 0 resisance on pots and using .03uF cap. Then I raised the duty cyle from 8% to 19.6% to increase charging.

With the 8% duty cycle drawing 425mA, the Primary dropped from 37.1v at rest to 36.7v under load and the charge bank went from 34.54v at rest to 37.2v immediately. As I tuned over the next 25 minutes, the Primary rose to 36.8v (from 36.6v) aas the draw fell from 425mA to 200mA and the charging went to 37.9v then steadily dropped to 37.4v as the mAs dropped. I then adjusted the duty cycle to 19.6%. The Primary dropped to 36.6v and
the charge bank rose to 38.1v. Coil was 95-97 degrees whole time (ambient = 94.5).
After an hour the Primary has dropped to 36.1v and the charge bank is at 37.6v. I assume that it is being desuphate at this point. But the frequency reads 282Hz (input side, 706Hz output side), the duty cycle has moved slightly up to 20.3%, and the draw has encreased slightly to about 800mA. I don't know what to make of that.

An interesting observation is that the powered ParaCore that I pored into the coil center is dancing on top. I had noted how the level had dropped after using it figuring that it was packing because of the oscilation vibration. Here I see the particles literally jumping up and down...cute.

Bob

Hey Bob!!

Great testing!!

Like I told you in my previous post, the issue was around your Pot-Resistors, that is a very sensible spot for the whole oscillator, and you have to make sure the cables running to LM339 from R-C (Pot-Cap_Resistors) are tight and secure...
Related to the Paracore Powder I was thinking of pouring it inside a tubing that fits inside the Coil center...maybe a high resistance glass tubing or fiberglass and sealing it with some clear plexiglass or lexan caps...previously inserting inside a small little coil of fine wire...like 33 awg / 120-150 Turns, wrapped around a small magnet (like my little UFO on my video...and glue an LED to it...Then you could see what's going on inside the core with the paracore powder...with the illumination from the LED...little coil-magnet-LED will "float" at dead center of big coil when is pulsing...

Regards Bob


Ufopolitics