My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[prochiro]

To All

LEARNING and UNDERSTANDING are not the same thing. Many here are building circuits because thay LEARNED how to do it. Untill you build it and play with it for a while, without changing it, you will not truely UNDERSTAND how it works. It is thru finding out why it does not work and going over everything again and again, as well as checking every item in the circuit off on another diagram as you go, that you begin the UNDERSTANDING. Then when you UNDERSTAND how it works, build another one and change that one, not the first one. Go slow, take notes and do every test you can at each level. It is thru UNDERSTANDING your circuit and going over your notes that you will be able to modify and improve what you have. When you put everything you have into one build and change it, when it goes up in smoke you will be at the begining and starting over again. That is stress----- as you now have nothing and no notes to get back on track. Keep up the good work guys.
Dana

[larryross]

Larry
Money or the lack of it has nothibg to do with it. Bob is living in a plywood 8x20 foot box covered with cement. No power, heat, Gas or running water.I also can not just go out and buy wire whenever I want. Others are living in a travel trailer, ect. But all of us know the answer to your question. Why. Because when we had your question, we took anything appart we could getr our hands on for some wire and we did what UFO asked....WE DID THE TESTS. One picture is a thousand words and in this case two or three thousand words. Make a scale (small) coil out of anything in the format that you are asking and measure it. We have all done this and why do you think you can learn this without doing the tests????? I have been in other groups on other projects that if someone asked what you did....no one would respond because you want us to do the work and hand you the report. I feel your education is not helping you at all and it is not helping us also. It takes about three hours to make this circuit and a coil. You have spent much more on questioning every thing all the way thru. Just do it. This is how you will get your answers. Test you question on a sloppy coil using scrap wire the way we have all learned this.
Dana I have said what I wanted to and will not respond to you about this again. Just relax...

Well Dana I guess I could stop spending my money to fight the cancer that is trying to take my life and put my money in building this instead and the days that I have trouble doing anything I could just ignore the pain and just do it. Just ignore the pain so I can keep up and not bother anyone. I don't have all the time left you are talking about. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.

Larry

[iankoglin]

Kogs new setup

Hello Ian,

In your Regulator, according to LM317 it is suppose to output somwhere around 12.80 V or so...Yours is outputting only 11 something...chack it...check that your voltage regulator does not dropp to lower values under load, that is very important to check...so add to it a 12 volt bulb, and watch it.
Second, the diodes at 555 (legs 6-7) between pot should be 1N4148 or similar, they are signal diodes...and I see a couple of big body rectifiers (like the NTE576) that are "too heavy" for that job...should use the crystal smaller ones since this side is low voltage...

That is so far what I see...

Regards

Ufopolitics

G'Day UFO
Thanks for your comments
The regulator with 36v actually outputs 12.4 volts I was testing my circuit using a very small SLAB 12v sitting at 12.95v
the diodes I used were too large I realised when someone else pointed it out some time ago but as it worked I left it alone.

On the Oscillator I had the larger diodes as I presumed that they were necessary as they were the only ones on your original circuit for the Regulator and oscillator and there was much discussion as to the fast Diodes and therefore I used them.

I see now that I was not understanding properly.
even so now I have after including the 2 Jumpers I stupidly left out
the oscillator while still using the small 12v to test with gives me from .0?% to 99?% duty cycle

I now ask you does it matter if I leave the larger diodes in place, IF NOT I will replace them if necessary.

Tomorrow I will test with the 36v and if OK will connect up the mosfets,coil and the Bulb to see how well it works
As I understand the Radient comes best with the shortest ON time( the smallest Duty Cycle)
So Please should I start with the duty cycle at 50% or greater?

Kindest Regards

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Iankoglin

G'Day UFO
Thanks for your comments
The regulator with 36v actually outputs 12.4 volts I was testing my circuit using a very small SLAB 12v sitting at 12.95v

Excellent!!

the diodes I used were too large I realised when someone else pointed it out some time ago but as it worked I left it alone.

On the Oscillator I had the larger diodes as I presumed that they were necessary as they were the only ones on your original circuit for the Regulator and oscillator and there was much discussion as to the fast Diodes and therefore I used them.

Your Oscillator will work with those diodes...however, the 1N4148 are designed for that job Ian, so the heavy rectifiers are faster, but they will not "filter" (will leak small reverse currents) like a signal diode never, but the only thing that could be wrong in your circuit (due to not putting the signal diodes) would be a bit of a coarser signal when tuning the Pot to Hi-Lo frequencies...meaning, it may not render a clean signal ...but it will not cause any dramatic or severe damage to anything...except a "noise" in the switching...

I see now that I was not understanding properly.
even so now I have after including the 2 Jumpers I stupidly left out

You could just use a small piece of cable and jump it through the outer contacts above the board, and not take the whole socket and remove soldering off...easier...

the oscillator while still using the small 12v to test with gives me from .0?% to 99?% duty cycle

Great!!

I now ask you does it matter if I leave the larger diodes in place, IF NOT I will replace them if necessary.

Run a test without removing them, observe the behavior of output and lamp...basically at steady high frequencies(600-800)...and watch it does not keep blinking but a steady illumination, and Hertz do not vary too much.

Tomorrow I will test with the 36v and if OK will connect up the mosfets,coil and the Bulb to see how well it works

What do you mean by run a test with the 36V "without" mosfets??!!, I guess you are referring to check low frequency signal output from gates connection (leg3 of 555)?

As I understand the Radient comes best with the shortest ON time( the smallest Duty Cycle)
So Please should I start with the duty cycle at 50% or greater?

Yes that is correct, 50% duty cycle is fine...but the Pot to increase frequency must be at highest resistance...meaning, zero hertz at output then dialing slow...very slow up.

Kindest Regards

Regards and good testing Ian


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Larry...

OK you are wight UFO I have a digital watt meter that tells consumption very accurately, but lead acid batteries are expensive (and I won't use lipos like you do even though I have lots of them I couldn't explain burning down our property to my wife) so maybe in a couple of months I might be able to buy 3 lead acid batteries. I try to use what I have if I can... you know poor people have poor ways. I could build a cement block bunker for them of course that would take up a lot of room on my bench. I'll look into making a smaller one out of fire bricks.

Regards
Larry

Hello Larry,

Then do the test with your power source Larry...and check the consumption and input, that is great you have that meter!
So please, do not wait for two months !!

I am not afraid of LiPo's Larry...I have run them to a point of heating up and swelling like balloons ...hahaha...however, nothing happened so far as getting on fire or exploding, I have also taken them apart, take the bad cells off and make up a new set by exchanging cells from other battery...and soldering with a 75 Watt soldering iron I have for those purposes. ..At the Hobby Shop where I buy them, they offer me to get one of those "explosion proof" bags...I never use them...so they call me "LiPo Dare Devil"...

But will tell you something ...they are the best batteries to run tests with this set-up...Oh!...and motors...You know they only last (under typical conditions) 10-15 minutes when running any given R/C Brushed or Brushless Motor right?...Well, I got them to run for long hours Larry...and not going below factory spec's per cell (below 2.9V) at all...

By the way Larry...I call "Open Loop Circuit" to any given circuit that "switches on-off" or opens its contacts at any given time during operation...Hot Electricity flows only in closed circuits. I know that Larry...However, Radiant do not require closed circuits...it works on just one connection contact...and bulb lights up...
Relating to Motors-Generators we know the "All Closed Loop Windings"...or Symmetrical, like Lap winding...short circuit motors, Closed Loop Machines...they are at "all times" closed...not in mine Larry...and they just need to open for a few seconds...that's all we need...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[JohnStone]

FET driver

Now I finished my update for my PWM generator / FET driver. Find the update on dropbox.
This is all I can advice up to now. Unfortunately one document can not forward the whole science reagrding this matter. But I am sure the essentials can be understood and are suffitient for building successful replications.
As I am very restricted in free time I will focus from now on to get my setup ready for experiments.

If you have a functioning unit - DON'T jump to this one. Maybe it will be of use for further setups being built from new.

[prochiro]

Pwm

JohnStone
This is truely a good day. You have given us the most excellent and controlable and repairable PWM set up one could hope for. Thank you soooo much. Another reason it is a good day is that Kogs should be hitting the start button on his circuit.
I will make the 12 volt changes at A and D as well as Item E3.
Another reason it is a good day is Bob has some info on the carbon(CF). We also have a lot of questions to be ironed out.

[JohnStone]

Just added some minor changes to the recent doc.

I feel sorry if I hear that some of you are seriously restricted in funds and components. But I feel happy if I see that YOU being affected get things running - that's real SMARTNESS!

[prochiro]

103 volts

To all
Stay tuned because within two hours, Bob is reporting with pictures on our setup using .010ma input and 103 volts out. Much more to do as every success brings many more questions. In case you are wondering what the delay is, he must drive 15 or so miles into town and sit in the parking lot at walmart to use the wifi to send and recieve emails. What a guy.
Dana

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

2nd CF Test

UFO,

Last night I decided to build a second coil with CF (carbon fiber) for testing as a secondary coil. I have posted pictures on Photobucket (Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket) the following is what I can remember at this moment.

The first attempt failed (I now believe because it was too far out from the center of the core). I used a spool w/ a 3" hole in the center around which I wound a 2" wide insulated CF tape. Around that I wound four 300' strands of 19AWG copper magnet wire, Litzed, in parallel (all beginnings together, all ends together) connected to the UFO circuit using 4 MOSFETs. The CF coil was not connected to the circuit. The idea was to simply harvest Radiant Energy with the CF coil as a secondary. Nada.

So this time I built a CF coil that was about 2" in diameter having 7 "wires", 15' in length, of 1k tow (that's a 1000 fiber strand). I set this coil inside the one described above and hooked the copper coil to a UFO circuit with two K2837 MOSFETs on my combined circuit. The CF coil I attached to different loads during the test period.

With no results at first and measuring very little voltage in the CF coil, I eventually placed NTE576 diodes on the CF coil leads and bingo! 47v! while the ammeter showed almost no draw on the 24v Primary. (Unfortunately I have not yet received my new meters, having burnt up 3 in two days, so I was using a 5A meter.) The draw was well under 100mA, around 10-25mA probably. I had a huge Neon bulb (1.5" dia. bulb) that I could never light, but it did light on the circuit Output at lower levels so I used it to help indicate the strength of the normal circuit Output.

I found a NE-2 Neon would light if placed across the CF coil, and brightened if I touched it (grounding it). So I hooked one leg of the NE-2 to a lead from the CF coil and one to a free-standing coil...and it lit well! Then I added the other lead from the CF coil and it brightened a little more! This is freaking me out at this point. I dropped the grounding lead and it bounced off the huge Neon and I saw a little flash...so I touched the grounding lead to various places and found that if I connected it to the Neg. of the Output, BOTH the NE-2 and the huge Neon got much brighter!!! We're on to something here folks. I've got both CF coil leads going to one leg of the NE-2 and the other leg going to the Output Neg. and everything likes it.

Most of this testing was taking place with less than 100mA draw. I found that a maximum CF coil voltage of 122-127v was obtained using just under 200mA of 24v. I did see flashes of 130v or more, but nothing that I could reproduce. Going much above 200mA the draw would jump suddenly to 5A and I don't know what voltage this produced as I was more concerned with getting it down so a to not let the smoke out of anything.

In the pics, you may notice that the CF coil is leaning off to one side. I found that this is where it produces the best. It also did well very near the center, but after repeated attempts, this other spot did best. As you said, the Cold Energy is in the center and Dana (my comrade in arms) pointed out that Romero placed magnets off-center on his coils.

All in all, for a second try, I think we've done well...indeed. And we're having fun.

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Great testing Bob!!

UFO,

Last night I decided to build a second coil with CF (carbon fiber) for testing as a secondary coil. I have posted pictures on Photobucket (Pictures by bobfrench - Photobucket) the following is what I can remember at this moment.

The first attempt failed (I now believe because it was too far out from the center of the core). I used a spool w/ a 3" hole in the center around which I wound a 2" wide insulated CF tape. Around that I wound four 300' strands of 19AWG copper magnet wire, Litzed, in parallel (all beginnings together, all ends together) connected to the UFO circuit using 4 MOSFETs. The CF coil was not connected to the circuit. The idea was to simply harvest Radiant Energy with the CF coil as a secondary. Nada.

So this time I built a CF coil that was about 2" in diameter having 7 "wires", 15' in length, of 1k tow (that's a 1000 fiber strand). I set this coil inside the one described above and hooked the copper coil to a UFO circuit with two K2837 MOSFETs on my combined circuit. The CF coil I attached to different loads during the test period.

With no results at first and measuring very little voltage in the CF coil, I eventually placed NTE576 diodes on the CF coil leads and bingo! 47v! while the ammeter showed almost no draw on the 24v Primary. (Unfortunately I have not yet received my new meters, having burnt up 3 in two days, so I was using a 5A meter.) The draw was well under 100mA, around 10-25mA probably. I had a huge Neon bulb (1.5" dia. bulb) that I could never light, but it did light on the circuit Output at lower levels so I used it to help indicate the strength of the normal circuit Output.

I found a NE-2 Neon would light if placed across the CF coil, and brightened if I touched it (grounding it). So I hooked one leg of the NE-2 to a lead from the CF coil and one to a free-standing coil...and it lit well! Then I added the other lead from the CF coil and it brightened a little more! This is freaking me out at this point. I dropped the grounding lead and it bounced off the huge Neon and I saw a little flash...so I touched the grounding lead to various places and found that if I connected it to the Neg. of the Output, BOTH the NE-2 and the huge Neon got much brighter!!! We're on to something here folks. I've got both CF coil leads going to one leg of the NE-2 and the other leg going to the Output Neg. and everything likes it.

Most of this testing was taking place with less than 100mA draw. I found that a maximum CF coil voltage of 122-127v was obtained using just under 200mA of 24v. I did see flashes of 130v or more, but nothing that I could reproduce. Going much above 200mA the draw would jump suddenly to 5A and I don't know what voltage this produced as I was more concerned with getting it down so a to not let the smoke out of anything.

In the pics, you may notice that the CF coil is leaning off to one side. I found that this is where it produces the best. It also did well very near the center, but after repeated attempts, this other spot did best. As you said, the Cold Energy is in the center and Dana (my comrade in arms) pointed out that Romero placed magnets off-center on his coils.

All in all, for a second try, I think we've done well...indeed. And we're having fun.

Bob

Hello Bob!!


Great testing man!!

Yes the Carbon Fiber has very "unusual" properties when it comes to Radiant...
I have also noticed that adding a ground will make it stronger, You've got Her in Bob...Radiant could only use one terminal to flow energy into a Neon...or a CFL...
Now, one thing I noticed on your pictures is that the CF Coil inside is too narrow width compared to the Primary you have...I tell you that the closer secondary could be to the inner walls of your primary...the better results you will get out. When you lean it on one side it was getting closer to a partial side of inner wall...that is why you've got better output there...so imagine every area closer to primary inner walls...

The other thing you could try is making a small spark gap...with a couple of carbon brushes from an old motor...sharpen the ends to a finer point...secure them isolated and attach both ends of secondary to them...then get a neon just close to its space..and watch it glow in your hands.Is a nice tests.

I am very glad you got the oscillator going again!!,...Great news man!!

Yes, we will get there soon Bob!!

Warm regards friend!


Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

Radiant

UFO

Both Bob and I were waiting, biteing our nails, to here from you. So I have a lot more carbon and heat shrink comming and will try my vaccume trick on them to get them together faster. You are saying to just fit the outside of secondary within primary core giving more direct contact, and do you have any suggestions with the carbon length,number of wires ect. I can think that as in a copper coil the same type of design would apply, but as the carbon takes hours and hours to stuff into the covering, any best quess would be helpful to start with. The rough cost per 100 foot of carbon in heat shrink is 21.60$. Again, we will both rebuild our coils to the exact pattern and length you suggest. Bob is such an excitable person, he keeps calling me and saying , guess what, guess what, guess what. I was checking out conductave epoxy, boy that stuff is not given away. Any suggestion about termination methods. I thought that a copper heavy wire with the tow rapped around and conduction epoxied in place???
Also is there any thought that if we made a larger primary with a larger core diameter, and then having more surface to react with a larger secondauy might be cool. We have many new questions and this week will be full of testing. Thanks for all your advanced direction.
Dana

[larryross]

Hi All
I have made what I would call carbon fiber magnet wire. It is round and has an insulated coating. (not shrink tube). I will test it to make sure it works before I post any more about it except it's cost will be (if it works) around $25 for 4500 feet of 2K size, but will be labor intensive unless I can come up with a way to mass produce it.

Later
Larry

[prochiro]

Carbon

UFO
It seems that using the tape style of 2" carbon (which has its own covering) can be rolled over the core like a traditional wind and then the copper primary can be rolled on next which brings them even closer togeather. This works the same as long as the diodes are in place. One funny thing is that if you set up the coil that way, putting the intercore coil in does nothing.
Dana

[torpex]

Hi all,

I had a strange fault, my LM350 regulator has exploded unexplained. I've used it for several days and today "boum". Occurred when the circuit was adjusted and changed at low frequency. Only 24v input. Luckily I put a zener protection, has made its mission.
if it was the radiant ... I was scared

The circuit repaired:



@JohnStone
Excellent work and good documentation. A doubt:
What is the difference between the 555-8ma and a specific mosfet driver?

@Bob,Dana
I'm glad that the circuit is already runing.
What was the problem in the circuit?