My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Magneticitist]

really looking forward to see more about ufopolitics motor.

very interesting development there.. as for the solid state pulsing of coils, im still confused as to what is being done differently there than other similar circuits such as a joule thief or bedini.. i understand there is an alteration with the diode along the positive input rail, but other than that, im trying to figure out how it really differs from any pulser outputting spikes of similar voltage.
neons can be easily fried and bulbs ran underwater with normal blocking oscillators so can someone help explain the major differences here, at least regarding the separation of cold and hot electricity?

is there a form of electromagnetic radiation that simply falls into a separate category of EM radiation?

[prochiro]

Kogs

Kogs
with the reg and occ and fet setup all hooked up do you still have at least 2 volts on occ output. If so then follow up to gate and see where it goes below 2 volts. The problem may be there, such as too much resistance.
Dana

[iankoglin]

Getting there

Kogs
with the reg and occ and fet setup all hooked up do you still have at least 2 volts on occ output. If so then follow up to gate and see where it goes below 2 volts. The problem may be there, such as too much resistance.
Dana

G'Day Dana
My wife wont like this But I Just have to give you a big
My problem all along has been the resistor connecting the Oscillator to the mosfet circuit it should have been 10k but I only had 100R
Like I said before I think it is just the nut on the end of the soldering Iron

I am really pleased with the people on this list every one is patient and wants to help even the NumSkulls

Tomorrow I will connect the coil and the CLF bulb then I can start to

I think this is this the way to hook it up at least this is the way I see it
Please If you would just check it over for me to see If I am correct



Thanks a million to all those who have helped me

Regards

[prochiro]

Kogs

The setup looks good. Getting the CFL to go is sometimes tricky the first time. Work in a dim lite room and touch the CFL which sometimes helps. Once you get the nack, it will lite every time.

Kogs, just give your wife the Hug as she has been the one who has been your greatest help.
Dana

[JohnStone]

FET Control

Quote: "First, if you have 2.5 volts to the gate, that part should work."
This holds true only for some special FETs! Depending on the type you use you should rise the gate / source voltage up to 6 Volt minimum better 10V in order to have full ON channel state at drain / source. The requested min. VGS can be found in the data sheets.
Example:
VGS_vs_ID.jpg

You can see at this example the dependence of VGS / IGS and temperature. At 2.5 V you have some conductance but a garanteed death zone if applying more current. There is another graph wehre they state that at 2.5 V and 1A there are 6V at FET DS = 6Watt dissipation for nothing than a dirty shortcut!

Every individual type has a special behaviour. So consult the data sheets in order to not fry your FETs. The problem is if you do not control the gate right the resistance of the conductive channel DG increases but not overall - the condictive channel gets smaller. (imagine a houer glass with variaable constriction in teh middle part) So the increasing heat concentrates on a smaller volume in the center of the DS channel.
A 12V swing for FET control is a good ans secure choice for nearly all FETs available.

There is another view to the FET control. The gate contains a capacitor of about 1nF. The faster it is charged the less heat and the more OU. At minimum voltage the chraging / discharging procedure takes long time and the probability of FET death increases considerably.

I hope you understand that sonversely from transistors at a FET many parameters lead to heat death if not controlled properly. Many of you experienced this - but learn from this!

If you want to have success please do not take shortcuts at this item! Do it right first time!

[prochiro]

Fets

Hi JohnStone
I am learning so much about fets from you and although I sometimes do not understand all that you say, little by little it is making sence to me.
What I was thinking about was how to get Kogs base voltage up a little for better function. I think that that would be in decreasing the resistance somewhare back in the occilator area. Now, just for fun, in the diagram that Kogs has shown, where might one start to get this done.
We do not want Kogs to blow anything else today. I know just enough to be dangerous and would probably guide him wrong. I will however learn the correct way to do this myself, from you, so as to better set my systems.

Thanks Dana

[JohnStone]

Hi prochiro,
I kow, I know how lost you feel in these matters. Now let's see what I can do for you!

Oh: Move the switch from GND to + lead. Disconnecting GND can destroy a lot of values you possibly can't replace!

1. First of all the question: what measurement tools do you have. A DVM is less than basic. Look for the good links from Larry regarding the soundcard oscilloscope. Another member suggested additionally an external sound/USB device for input in order to protect your PC from accidental damage. That is an extremely good tool for exactly this task. Focus on it.
Please take in account that this crcuit is the beginning only - later circuits get more complicated and it will pay very soon if you take effort in this direction.


2. You shoud learn, that it is very important to isolate functional units for test and examination. Perhaps you remember my circuit suggested - was devided in individual measurable circuits. Step by step they can be added up to a functioning oscillator.

2a:It does not matter that you have another circuit but please examine your oscillator first. You should know it to be functioning and not guess. No blind flight please!
If you have no oscilloscope please account for this voltage peak detector. I hope you understand it. You get after short time the maximum voltage of your oscillator output - independently of frequency and duty cycle. Imagine: You dip a bowl (capacitor) in water and it will be filled after a while to exactly the same level (voltage) of the water outside. You need to poor the water out in order to take another measurement.


2b: Examine the FET stage before you connect the oscillator. As I mentioned above it is essential for FET health to get it controlled right. If not - it will be killed.
Imagine: You grab with bare hands a fast moving rope. You will burn your fingers! This how a FET feels if you push much current (rope) through the drain /source channel (grabbing fingers) if not controlled right.
If you have suffitient gate voltage it is like the same rope moving through a wide metallic ring (drain source channel again). Mostly no friction, good guide for the rope.
As I mentioned above you should not be content below 8 or 10 Volt.
BTW: What FET do you use, I will tell you what voltage to apply - minimum.
Now, how to test the FET stage?
Put the coil apart for now and use a resistor instead as load. You can calculate the current depending of your voltage. Start with 1 A (12V / 12Ohm or 24V 24Ohm)

• Connect the resistor directly to the battery and measure the current.
• Connect a LED with a 1K resistor in parallel to the resistor. It will go on if you reconnect the assembly to your battery. The same will do the FET later on.
• Build the assembly above with FET in series. See schematic
• Connect a 10K pot to 12 V and measure the varying voltage at the wiper.
• Connect the assembly to the FET (wiper = gate / GND to source)
• Increase V3 up to the minimum V2. Now you have the minimum voltage for driving 1A at this current temperature. (Operate circuit short time only because of heat)
• Similar measurement with more current - check voltage necessary
• Check with coil (1 Ohm) again -> for very short time

Now you have educarted yourself and know what your FET stage is capable of.

3. NOW: You are ready for connecting your oscillator -> BUT: start with 1Amp and LED again and perform the steps above with oscillator.

[prochiro]

JohnStone

Boy, you said a mouthfull there. Thanks from me and Kogs.

[iankoglin]

Education Of Kogs

G'Day John and Dana

I was going to connect my coil and CFL to the 6 mosfet Circuit tomorrow.
But Now I dont think so, I may just try with the one Mosfet circuit first

I really appreciate you both and every one else for the help I receive
I will have to closely study this info Thanks John , I am sure it will take me more than a few days to ingest it.
As a simple joiner I am very adept at making things with wood 6 years ago I tried to educate my self about 555 timers as I really wanted to build a Ron Brandts Tesla Switch But for me it was very difficult to understand I joined the BM3 Forum and have spent these last years building several Bedini Energisers.
I have found on this list I need to learn more about the workings of each component
Kindest Regards

[prochiro]

Kogs

You are wise in going to lower number of fets for testing and for takeing the time to learn what John is teaching. Without understanding each piece and how thay relate together, you will always be making someone elses circuit and when it does not work, your screwed. I am taking time to do the same.
Dana

[ZeropointEnergy]

Well done Mate!!

G'Day Dana
My wife wont like this But I Just have to give you a big
My problem all along has been the resistor connecting the Oscillator to the mosfet circuit it should have been 10k but I only had 100R
Like I said before I think it is just the nut on the end of the soldering Iron

I am really pleased with the people on this list every one is patient and wants to help even the NumSkulls

Tomorrow I will connect the coil and the CLF bulb then I can start to

I think this is this the way to hook it up at least this is the way I see it
Please If you would just check it over for me to see If I am correct

Thanks a million to all those who have helped me

Regards

Hey Kogs,

I'm very pleased that you finally obtained the desired result. Looking forward to seeing the pics in all their glory.
Use a neon or a few in parallel if you want to start at the lower frequencies or like Dana said will take more tuning to active the CFL.

Best of luck in the "Happy Motor" we have spoken about and call if you want to chat mate.

Regards
Zero

[JohnStone]

You are wise in going to lower number of fets for testing and for takeing the time to learn what John is teaching. Without understanding each piece and how thay relate together, you will always be making someone elses circuit and when it does not work, your screwed. I am taking time to do the same.
Dana

Well said! Start simple - one FET, low amperage, low voltage. This setup is more forgiving.
Imagine: You just got your driving license. Will you be ready for serious competitions in formula1? The most extreme you can do is - watching it at TV. Beside that (coach patato racing:-)) you will learn driving by slow daily traffic.
With this in view Bedini disclosed his SSG setup, Ufo disclosed his single FET /coil/CFL setup. Learn and master it! It is a big chance in it! Bedini complains that people rearranged the setup long before they understood basics.
After a while you can treat the accellerator pedal more distinctly.

[thugugly]

Hey everyone,

Ian, it's great you got your circuit figured out.

Johnstone or Dana, have you guys had a chance to look at the hi side optos?
When I left I thought I had it figured out, but 36v would not switch, hi side. I hooked it up as low side and it is working so good. I hate to put more time into this since UFO has just given us years of work and it sounds like he already knows how the optics need to be wired.
I don't know.

UFO, do you already have the high low optics worked out, I'll continue with the optics if it's needed, it's really fun, but you have to say.

Thug

[JohnStone]

... have you guys had a chance to look at the hi side optos?
.....

UFO, do you already have the high low optics worked out, I'll continue with the optics if it's needed, it's really fun, but you have to say.
...

Hi,
sorry confused, what schematic do you refer to?

I am fairly shure Ufo refers to "opto" as sensor for rotor angle in order to fire the coils (similar to car ignition) - omiting the use of commutators for the motors. That is another league to play than your concern.
Nevertheless the opto drivers for FETs may be another building stone for the future setup. In this case the optos above will control the opto drivers. A plurality of circuits possible.
rgds John

[iankoglin]

@ John Stone

G'Day John Stone

I know, I know how lost you feel in these matters. Now let's see what I can do for you!
Thanks for your help

Oh: Move the switch from GND to + lead. Disconnecting GND can destroy a lot of values you possibly can't replace!

Larry did tell me to do this some time ago I did change the switch It is now in the Positive line I did not change the diagram

1. First of all the question: what measurement tools do you have. A DVM is less than basic.

Yes I do have 3 DMM 2 Dick smith (they read .o5v different to each other)and 1 Digitec QM1575 an Analogue Oscilloscope 2 channel LVang YB4328


2. You shoud learn, that it is very important to isolate functional units for test and examination. Perhaps you remember my circuit suggested - was devided in individual measurable circuits. Step by step they can be added up to a functioning oscillator.

2a:It does not matter that you have another circuit but please examine your oscillator first. You should know it to be functioning and not guess. No blind flight please!

I did show a vid with my Mob Phone of the Oscillator as I turned the pot it is here
Sho UFO :: Scope of Oscillator while turning pot video by Kogs1 - Photobucket
Some measurements on Output of Oscillator Before 10k Resistor to Mosfet Gate Measured on a Dick Smith DMM
Pot=zero, D/C=3.1, Htz=0, v=2.1, Lights dim(3x12v bulbs in series
Pot=half, D/C=50%,Htz=4.94, v=4.92, Lights well lit
Pot=Full, D/C=98%, Htz=4.57, v=9.59, Lights very bright

I hope these ore OK
I will continue with the other tests later today Mon 16July 2012 after I finish examining the rest of your instructions and have built the small circuit

2b: Examine the FET stage before you connect the oscillator. As I mentioned above it is essential for FET health to get it controlled right. If not - it will be killed.

As I mentioned above you should not be content below 8 or 10 Volt.
BTW: What FET do you use, I will tell you what voltage to apply - minimum.
Now, how to test the FET stage?

The FETS are STP11NK40Z I purchased 25 from Element14 along with the LM317KCS regulators and MUR440E3/54 Fast diodes
Some diodes I got on Ebay arehttp://www.ebay.ca/itm/390420545632?...84.m1439.l2649

Put the coil apart for now and use a resistor instead as load. You can calculate the current depending of your voltage. Start with 1 A (12V / 12Ohm or 24V 24Ohm)

• Connect the resistor directly to the battery and measure the current.
• Connect a LED with a 1K resistor in parallel to the resistor. It will go on if you reconnect the assembly to your battery. The same will do the FET later on.
• Build the assembly above with FET in series. See schematic
• Connect a 10K pot to 12 V and measure the varying voltage at the wiper.
• Connect the assembly to the FET (wiper = gate / GND to source)
• Increase V3 up to the minimum V2. Now you have the minimum voltage for driving 1A at this current temperature. (Operate circuit short time only because of heat)
• Similar measurement with more current - check voltage necessary
• Check with coil (1 Ohm) again -> for very short time

Now you have educarted yourself and know what your FET stage is capable of.

3. NOW: You are ready for connecting your oscillator -> BUT: start with 1Amp and LED again and perform the steps above with oscillator.[/QUOTE]

John Thanks a heap
Kindest Regards