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I need to order some components to duplicate your original setup, so I am just playing around with what I have sitting around. So I realize this is not an exact duplication, but I do have something astonishing to report about my setup.
I have trashed all my mosfets in other experiments, so I am using some BJT's from a tesla switch experiment I worked on last year. I created the setup you used in your original post with a dead battery as my load. I wound an air coil around a 500ml water bottle with 285 turns of what looks like #24 magnet wire. Inside diameter is about 2" and height is about 2". Diodes are standard as I am using two legs each of two bridge rectifiers. Although I did try some 1N914's that didn't seem to make any difference.
The battery started at 4V as it was a trashed battery I used a year ago in my Telsa Switch experiments. The battery has just been sitting this whole time and was bad last year too. I wanted my Telsa Switch to rejuvenate it, but that never happened.
Anyways, I hooked the setup to a variable power supply and dialed it up to 20V and adjusted my pulse generator to a width and frequency that gave me highest battery terminal voltage with the least amount of current. Battery went to 12.30 volts with 1.1 amps coil load.
I periodically tested how much energy was in the battery by shorting a small gauge wire across its terminals. Initially this resulted in voltage dropping to zero and a minimal amount of yellow and blue sparks. Over about 3 hours the battery seemed to be recovering with more intense discharges and less voltage drop from each previous test. I went to bed and let it run all night (about 7 hours).
I was expecting to see great results in the morning, but was disappointed to find that the batt voltage was only about 12.33V. I tried my short circuit test again and received a very long (1 second duration) and moderate intensity yellow spark. Trying to short immediately again resulted in discharges similar to the day before when I started the test.
I then tried to retune it, but was still coming back to my original settings. My scope showed pulses of about 13-13.5 volts and a DMM hooked to the battery showed about 12.3V. I then continued to periodically short the battery when all of a sudden the voltage on my meter jumped up in the 17-18V range. It is a cheap meter, so I immediately thought my meter was incorrect until I also saw the same thing on my spope with pulse amplitude now reaching 18-24volts. This would only last for about about 10 seconds and then everything dropped back to the readings and pulses I had been seeing since I had started it up the previous day. I was able to get the system to start the high voltage pulses again by shorting the battery as I had been doing. Each time the pulse train would last for about 10 seconds. I could do this over and over and it continued to happen, but since I had the larger pulses, I expected to see larger sparks each time I shorted, but did not. I then decided to vary my pulse width and voltage to see if that made any difference. I did this both before the start of the high voltage pulse train and during it. I found that decreasing my pulse width let the oscillations last longer. And I also realized a lower power supply voltage helped too, but that also decreased the high voltage pulse amplitude. I found that increasing the voltage beyond 20V would not let the system oscillate for more than a few seconds. By bringing the pulse width down slightly at the 20V setting I was able to maintain the oscillations almost indefinitely. I reasoned that I was over-powering the coil.
Once maintained, I just let it charge that battery that way for about 30 minutes, but my short circuit test showed no significant energy in the battery. I originally thought there was a hyper sweet spot I was tuning to that let this happen, but I found that I could vary the frequency during the oscillations without them ceasing - it only affected the amplitude. I continued to vary the frequency and pulse width until the oscillations stopped then I had to short again to start it again. At this point, I was shorting about once every 10 seconds as that was how long it was for me to try and slowly tune before I lost the oscillation. Then all of a sudden shorting it resulted in large yellow discharge similar to one you would get from a fully charged battery. It burned the tip of my wire in two and created welding arcs on the batt terminal. Oscillations did not restart at this point. I restripped my wire and shorted again with the same intense welding arc. Unable to restart oscillation. I could not believe this as it seemed the battery had charged up in just a few seconds. My meter read 12.04 volts. I shorted 4 or 5 more times expecting the arcing to finally run out, but it did not. I then hooked up a car headlight with burned brightly for about 5 minutes with batt voltage holding steady. After that the voltage started dropping steadily for the next few minutes until at 10V I unhooked the light and tried to restart oscillation to recharge the battery, but it would not. I then hooked the light up for 30 minutes and let the battery completely discharge to a few 10ths of a volt hoping that a more dead battery would restart oscillations - did not work.
Currently I have readjusted things exactly the way it was before I went to bed and have the system running hoping to be able to restart the oscillations.
I have no idea why this happened or how to do it again. But if I had not witnessed the "flash" charge of a bad battery (I think it has a bad cell), I would have never believed it.
I have also seen some strange things with my Tesla Switch, like literally blowing the electrolytic caps up on the inverter I was using to make 110V.
If anyone has any insight into what I have observed, how and why it occurred, I am sure that everyone here would be interested to know.
Lenny
Update: the flash charge was an illusion as I later discovered that the battery terminal had a poor connection with a layer of black oxide on it
the oscillations were not an illusion as I later achieved 50+ volt peak oscillations even without the coil or the diodes - just power supply, BJT switch, and battery
the high resistance of the bad connection seemed to be the root of the phenomenon as after I cleaned my connections it would not manifest again
I even tried adding resisters inline, but no luck
The oxide layer between the two lead surfaces might have been forming a capacitor also
Last edited by yipyipdog; 08-06-2012, 11:08 AM.
Reason: updating my information which some was wrong
Didn't you just start a thread telling everyone about the secret of Kapnze?
I guess you didn't know the secret after all.
I use knowledge of Truck Driver from Ukraine - he talked me to put coil on top of induction cooker and start stream AC 240 volt throu pancake coil to LOAD
that is Secret of Kapanadze//// here is not Kapa Thread so I think your question is offtopic and you - troll or whatewer beast keep away from me
Amen Amen Amen!
My idea of charging batteryes permanenly using scooter is older that this Thread but I like to share it here because this is in main stream of topics
I did exp with coils similiar as UFO politics in 2010 and 2011 it is working! I have pics of that exp anyway!
Here I used bifilar coil 200 wingings and Pulse generator Ne555 to bright a lamp Best coil for free energy devices | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
This coil and Genrator is still alive and I am able to make short video but I didn get SE here! no secrets! no radiant! it just a lite from bulb that all
Here is schematics part of this i have used in single bifilar coil i have mentioned abowe
2012 may bring the "perfect storm" - solar flares, systems collapse
Ufopolitics,
I do believe the technology you have brought forward is paving the way for the new energy source and social transformation that is needed at this time:
"These new energy sources are less vulnerable to destructive solar storms, have no negative environmental impact, and could unleash unprecedented economic and social transformation."
Stay the course and never give up!
IndianaBoys
PS: What you are bringing forth is a novelty:
Novelty =
1. The quality of being new, original, or unusual.
2. A new or unfamiliar thing or experience.
I hope this is not "old news" now, but I got my oscillator working and I have a video of some cool effects. Although I did not attract metal to the radiant, I found it interesting that the camera had alot of interference, which I am assuming is magnetic interference.
I hope this is not "old news" now, but I got my oscillator working and I have a video of some cool effects. Although I did not attract metal to the radiant, I found it interesting that the camera had alot of interference, which I am assuming is magnetic interference.
Nice!...That is it...you got HER...is the Purple bubbly, wobbly light...
Your camera or mine or anyone can not keep up with Radiant Light...is faster, and spectrum is way different than regular white light..
Notice how you get the orange light also mixed up with the purple...it is the Square wave Up...(orange) and Down..(purple) ....there are points of lower duty you get HER full time...
Nice Rock and Roll Light Show!!...
Thanks
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
I'm sorry for answering this 2 months later, but...
It seems to me that flat wide CF works much better than making a "wire" of it. It seems to prefer crossing a "wide prairie" than use an "Interstate through a forest" even if the latter is unencumbered. (?) I have not gotten encouraging results using the 1k or 50k "wire" that I have made.
The CF tape comes with a plastic backer on it that is very convenient. Just make sure that there are absolutely NO hairs of the CF shorting across from one wrap to another. As a superconductor, even one little (extremely hard to see) strand can short a whole lot. Also, it is very strong stuff, but brittle and cuts easily. Take care not to have bends that are across sharp corners or sharp surfaces.
Some have expressed concerns about health issues, but the only one that I have seen in print is if CF dust is air born it is considered like asbestos. Someone told me that it doesn't get ejected from the body should it get in, but I see that sort of like glass where the body retains it, but is basically inert. (?) I'm no expert.
Very interesting thread, especially on the use of carbon fibre. Coming from an aviation background these static dischargers are now making more sense. I wondered for insulating the carbon fibre if drawing it through aquarium piping, which is quite thin, (some made of silicon and others PTFE -Teflon )would be a quick and satisfactory way of doing it? I guess attach the CF to a bit of iron wire and the CF could be coaxed through with a magnet – anyway just a thought.
Ok, I had spent hours preparing diagrams and notes and uploading photos here...
And all this effort was done in order to follow a duplication of my circuit..
And that means to build it AS IS, maybe playing a bit here or there with the tank circuit of 555, that's where you made adjustments to the square wave.
This is a simple Astable Operation of a T555, but modified a bit. So if anyone does not know about this op...there are many sites dedicated just to playing with waves, and the resonating part of 555, which is the two resistors and Pot, at legs 5,6,7...and the 001 Capacitor to ground...that's it.
If having problem with tuning...it could be the Coil was not done, either with enough turns, improper wire, etc...or something else was not ok.
So, I recommend to put in the Tank instead of the 1K resistors, replace them by two 10K Trimmers , before soldering set a mark (I do it with fine markers, of different colors) At 1K on wiper and body, so you do not get lost , also try different Cap sizes .
And I tell You why...Here, the Idea is to test FIRST, my original circuit AS IS...and The Two Diodes is the WAY I made a special diagram, very neat, nice colors to be understood well,
The main deal here, and the cause of all the arguments...is to replicate my design, that you ALL have seen working, then ...
Come back here and tell Us your readings
I want readings before Battery connected of Voltage and Mark Start Time
of Test, Then after finishing the test, mark time and take readings again.
It is very important to have at ALL TIMES Meters on this, including one at Battery Terminals, and tell you why.
If you are going Driving the Pot "Blindly" (no gauges, no readings On) and pass to a too high stage...You are gonna fry everything there...
Including the Coil...
I do not know if you read my post with Matthew here , where He told me about many of you replicating this experiment (In Your Side is an Experiment, in mine it isn't anymore)...and, That You all guys will come back here to tell me How it went...
The point is to test it and read it, then tell Us your "experiences"...
After each one has does that...then you could put even an Old Transformer on it, if you like...but not before we finish this "Stage" please!
This organized way we all come back and talk about it...
Cheers
Ufopolitics
Hello UFO,
Kelly of pdf fame, actually introduced me to your work.I am just at page 4.Plan to read all the post to get me up to date.But I must say I loved this post so far...
Kelly of pdf fame, actually introduced me to your work.I am just at page 4.Plan to read all the post to get me up to date.But I must say I loved this post so far...
Excellent work my friend.Keep it up!
Ged
Hello Gedfire!!
I have seen and read many posts you have written in the Donald Smith Thread...and I like very much your opinions as mainly your cool and nice personality!!...So You are very welcome here my friend!
I am very glad you are reading this thread as I am glad you've liked this post here...but I will be honest with you...it's been so long, and I have been involved lately in so many Motor Diagrams...so many rotations, windings, turns... angles and dynamics in general...that reading myself about a Calmly Solid State set-up...I really do not recall ever writing it...
Just kidding...Welcome Friend
Regards
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
I am trying to upload another one Driving my standard My1018 motor
Thanks to you UFO especially for your thread and all YOU others helping me
Kindest Regards
Getting there
Hello Kogs!!
Let me just say it is a great pleasure to see those lamps fully lighting up my dear friend!!
I also watched the Motor Video...is also awesome!!...very low power spent will run that Motor at High RPM's...and cold!!
Now it IS a Happy Kogs Motor!!...
That is the same Motor that Turion converted...the 16 poles...I drew a Diagram for it...and is doing awesome.
Warm regards Dear Friend!!
Ufopolitics
Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci
As I mentioned before I was hoping to have a Windscreen motor modified by one of my friends so I could wind it assemetrically he has several motors but they are all so different it is difficult for him to put together just the one.
He said he will have one soon
I am looking forward to making /modifying one so I can Fit on my Bicycle as my wife said I spend too much time in front of my computer and she says I need some exercise
Thanks again UFO for staying here to show us
Kindest regards to You All
I am trying to upload another one Driving my standard My1018 motor
Thanks to you UFO especially for your thread and all YOU others helping me
Kindest Regards
Getting there
Hi Ian,
Thank you for your video, it cleared something which bothered me a lot. My setup is running on 24V with just one IRF740 FET and four parallel strands of 22 swg enamelled copper wire wound side by side, over a double layer of 20 swg wire on a 2.5 inch long 2 inch diameter spool. Increasing the Duty Cycle does what your system does and at quite low settings the light output gets to a scary level, giving marked after-images if you look at it.
What bothered me was that increasing the Duty Cycle increases the power output, while my understanding of the theory was that as the cold electricity component is supposed to be fed in the OFF periods, so raising the Duty Cycle should lower the output power and not increase it, but I see that you are getting the same effect as me.
My inner coil half-wave rectified into a capacitor is giving me 116V which I have not yet load tested. Have you tested an inner coil? It would be nice to get this setup self-powered which I believe should be possible.
As I mentioned before I was hoping to have a Windscreen motor modified by one of my friends so I could wind it assemetrically he has several motors but they are all so different it is difficult for him to put together just the one.
He said he will have one soon
I am looking forward to making /modifying one so I can Fit on my Bicycle as my wife said I spend too much time in front of my computer and she says I need some exercise
Thanks again UFO for staying here to show us
Kindest regards to You All
G'Day UFO
Just a bit Extra not shown on the video
I also tried driving the modified RS motor or rather ran it with the large Mosfet driver I used in the videos of course it ran with much less power than the MY1018 I did notice that it was not sparking on the commutator until I was pushing it a bit harder then the sparks came and I decided not to push it any further as I am sure it would distroy it
When I ran the RS motor with a straight connection with the 12v battery it did not spark or just a bit as the commutator I am sure is not worn in yet.
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