My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[JohnStone]

Hi All,
I've had endless problems with using Evergetic Forum.

Aaron says he knows of no one having similar problems.

When I submit a post the response page won't come up.

So I try again and same result.

Hence duplicate postings.

Today one place said I was the last poster on this thread and the thread did not show the post. Then it shows two posts after I spend 10mins trying to log in. Maybe someone has a better understanding of this than I.

Goofy stuff!

bro d

Me too! No idea why. Use "advanced" edit. It works all time!

[JohnStone]

Hi Folks!
The basis of UFO technology is the asymmetric winding. This opens the door to many differnet additional measures being of no use in symmetrical world. And there are plenty of them - and all have their specific implications.

Pulsing the asymmetric prime mover is one of those measures. I explained again and again that we need to think in terms of functional blocks.

• Generator
• FET driver
• FET stage
• Coil
• ...

Ufo started his public activity showing what radinat is in order to grasp this element of his technology. Here we can evalutae on how to proceed with the building stones applied in this thread.

Ufo started another thread regarding asymmetrical winding being another puzzle part. Once being there on solid ground we will go further.

Here we perform the very same approach you were tought as child - assembling a puzzle.

Surely one of the future steps will be to put these two technologies together - he mentioned it many times. But do not expect to just join these parts and you have all well done. There are many chances in order to pulse the motor. But if you have built your pulser in a modular way you can make your FET stage working with high voltage / high currents or replace the pulse generator with some control from the motor directly in order to synchronize it properly..... We can do it with descrete components or by dead simple and cheap microcontrollers (dummy grade but highly effective). You will get help in any extend.
The prospect above is for example only. I do not claim to know what is next. There are MANY additional ways to climb.

So be calm and patient and do it like hiking in the mountains: watch the far montains and enjoy them AND do the next step in the dirt and enjoy it as well. But do not try both at same time!

I educate myself in some extend just now in order to prepare for possible future demands. And please note there are some brains here discussing from time to time further approaches - behind the curtain - in order to have a garden full of flowers being prepared to pick the right selection in order to assemble a well tunded bunch for every casuality.

The attribute of experts is not the knowledge only but the aibility to do the right activities in the right time and right order. This notion refers to our community and the aibility to act together far more effectively than any single brain.
JohnS

[Donald Haas]

Hi Dana

[QUOTE=prochiro;218394]Donald Haas
Good to see you are making progress and going slowly.

Hi Dana,

I have to wait for a 250k pot to proceed with the basic circuit.

I bread boarded the circuit with 2 LM393's and not seeing anything.

I powered it with 11.5v and scoped it at output and nothing is showing.

The gnd is the input and output neg, right?

I'll try it again with soldering.

I can test this without a mosfet connected, right?

I'm very grateful for your helpfulness.

bro d

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Donald

[QUOTE=Donald Haas;218507]

Donald Haas
Good to see you are making progress and going slowly.

Hi Dana,

I have to wait for a 250k pot to proceed with the basic circuit.

I bread boarded the circuit with 2 LM393's and not seeing anything.

I powered it with 11.5v and scoped it at output and nothing is showing.

The gnd is the input and output neg, right?

I'll try it again with soldering.

I can test this without a mosfet connected, right?

I'm very grateful for your helpfulness.

bro d

Hello Donald,

The output signal from oscillator is very low, as it also changes from High to zero, this will not show on regular meters, and the Scope has to be set at very high sensitivity as very short time display (so you could see the wave bigger)

Am I right...Sir John Stone?


Regards to all


Ufopolitics

[Donald Haas]

cct works now

[QUOTE=Ufopolitics;218549]

Hello Donald,

The output signal from oscillator is very low, as it also changes from High to zero, this will not show on regular meters, and the Scope has to be set at very high sensitivity as very short time display (so you could see the wave bigger)

Am I right...Sir John Stone?


Regards to all

Ufopolitics

Hi UFO,
That cct from page 12, post 349 looked to me like two comparators, but they are designated 1a and 1b.

It is a double device and when I realized that I'm to use only one in the circuit then it works fine.

One would need to change caps size to get full frequency range.
The off corner of the square wave is very sharp. It drops off with no trace on the scope. The front edge of the wave becomes increasingly round when the frequency is up over 20khz.

Saw 62khz with a 51Pf cap. Saw 1hz with a .101uF cap with a 5m pot.
The duty cycle is adjustable as advertised. 0 to 99.5%.

Enough mosfet gate voltage may be an issue at the extremes.

Runs on 3ma.

bro d

[prochiro]

Donald
So glad you have it up and working now. Do not use fets on high without proper drivers or your shop will stink.....
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

The Electronics Side...

Hello to All,

It's been a while since I do not write here addressing "To all"...
So far I have been responding and helping some members...in their replications...

But I feel it is time I should make a "return" here in a more consistent basis...

We need to talk about the Electronics again...
And I am very glad we all have here such experts like Sir John Stone, a great asset and contributor to this project, and We both already had some talk about this...
I have tried an old transformer charger with the Mecc Alte-Imperial set up today.
It is a "dinosaur" that they still use to charge deep cycle batteries on electric small vehicles and golf carts.

I did not like its spec's

Input: 115V/15.5 A (I liked this side)
Output: 36V/25A (Not this low Amps)

But I still hook it direct by bypassing its electronic circuit that through a relay triggers the mains to turn on Primary on Transformer...this is designed as a safety feature...that will not start charging if batteries are completely dead...so an initial voltage excitement from batteries normally triggers it on...

I plug it from the AC Line 120V to the Motor Input...and it started to run very slow...no sparks on commutators at all...but it gained enough speed...however...it did not reached even the 3000 RPM's...

So, here we go...

We need to come up with some kind of dedicated PSU that will be very "cheap" to run (AC Input wise)...a switching power supply unit...BUT, with higher than 25 Amps out at 36 Volts...and We are talking about and around...80 Amps steady.
This would be our "Transfer Supply Module".

And here I need to address directly Sir John Stone, as others that want to join in and that are great at electronic PSU/Controllers design.

The Design John, could be done as your previous and awesome Modular Concept, where we could consider different Paths to obtain different functions, using the same Main Power Source Module spec's/parameters...meaning: Using same 36V/80A (for instance, but it could be different numbers, I am saying this to play in the High Side rather than on the equal and possible decay factor)...and in a not expensive way derive from here the Robust Transfer Supply Module, The BMS (Battery Management System, which will be also in charge of disconnecting batteries when fully charged from charging...as also directly interconnected with Transfer Supply Module) and the Speed Controller Module.

Resuming:

1-Main Switching Power Supply, low Input Amps, 120V
2-Transfer Switch/Supply Module
3-BMS (Battery Management System)
4-Speed Controller (Pulsed of Course, and connected to a speed sensor attached at back of Motor (they sell those ready to install...no big deal here)

5-A last one and less Important (so far My Motor does not heat up at all,but Generator will, as eventually at long operating hours Motor will also heat up) would be a Temperature Control Unit, that have temp sensors installed at specific locations triggering dedicated small fans to attend/ventilate those areas...similar to a PC Fan Control Unit...that triggers the Hottest or working Hard Drives in a Server...or VPU, or CPU...etc,etc

I know it is not a simple deal...but this (hope not missing something important here, but if I do, we could add it up) would be all we need to make a Universal System that will work not only for an "Auxiliary Energy Generator" but for many other applications this tech could apply to.

Warm regards


Ufopolitics

PD: I almost forget!!...I still need to finish "Tuning Up" My Imperial Motor...and that includes installing the missing brush... ... setting the right connections at output brushes (series instead of parallel) and then checking Output readouts (V&A) with a load on...so we need this Data, to somehow "assist" the Main Power Supply Module at the other "High Generator End"...

Note: I may be adding new stuff here between here and there...so check edits

[Cornboy 555]

Thanks JOHN.

Hello to All,

It's been a while since I do not write here addressing "To all"...
So far I have been responding and helping some members...in their replications...

But I feel it is time I should make a "return" here in a more consistent basis...

We need to talk about the Electronics again...
And I am very glad we all have here such experts like Sir John Stone, a great asset and contributor to this project, and We both already had some talk about this...
I have tried an old transformer charger with the Mecc Alte-Imperial set up today.
It is a "dinosaur" that they still use to charge deep cycle batteries on electric small vehicles and golf carts.

I did not like its spec's

Input: 115V/15.5 A (I liked this side)
Output: 36V/25A (Not this low Amps)

But I still hook it direct by bypassing its electronic circuit that through a relay triggers the mains to turn on Primary on Transformer...this is designed as a safety feature...that will not start charging if batteries are completely dead...so an initial voltage excitement from batteries normally triggers it on...

I plug it from the AC Line 120V to the Motor Input...and it started to run very slow...no sparks on commutators at all...but it gained enough speed...however...it did not reached even the 3000 RPM's...

So, here we go...

We need to come up with some kind of dedicated PSU that will be very "cheap" to run (AC Input wise)...a switching power supply unit...BUT, with higher than 25 Amps out at 36 Volts...and We are talking about and around...80 Amps steady.
This would be our "Transfer Supply Module".

And here I need to address directly Sir John Stone, as others that want to join in and that are great at electronic PSU/Controllers design.

The Design John, could be done as your previous and awesome Modular Concept, where we could consider different Paths to obtain different functions, using the same Main Power Source Module spec's/parameters...meaning: Using same 36V/80A (for instance, but it could be different numbers, I am saying this to play in the High Side rather than on the equal and possible decay factor)...and in a not expensive way derive from here the Robust Transfer Supply Module, The BMS (Battery Management System, which will be also in charge of disconnecting batteries when fully charged from charging...as also directly interconnected with Transfer Supply Module) and the Speed Controller Module.

Resuming:

1-Main Switching Power Supply, low Input Amps, 120V
2-Transfer Switch/Supply Module
3-BMS (Battery Management System)
4-Speed Controller (Pulsed of Course, and connected to a speed sensor attached at back of Motor (they sell those ready to install...no big deal here)

5-A last one and less Important (so far My Motor does not heat up at all,but Generator will, as eventually at long operating hours Motor will also heat up) would be a Temperature Control Unit, that have temp sensors installed at specific locations triggering dedicated small fans to attend/ventilate those areas...similar to a PC Fan Control Unit...that triggers the Hottest or working Hard Drives in a Server...or VPU, or CPU...etc,etc

I know it is not a simple deal...but this (hope not missing something important here, but if I do, we could add it up) would be all we need to make a Universal System that will work not only for an "Auxiliary Energy Generator" but for many other applications this tech could apply to.

Warm regards


Ufopolitics

PD: I almost forget!!...I still need to finish "Tuning Up" My Imperial Motor...and that includes installing the missing brush... ... setting the right connections at output brushes (series instead of parallel) and then checking Output readouts (V&A) with a load on...so we need this Data, to somehow "assist" the Main Power Supply Module at the other "High Generator End"...

Note: I may be adding new stuff here between here and there...so check edits

Hello John Stone, UFO, and all,Just beat me UFO, am going to ask JS for help on switching setup for hall sensors.

Don't want to overload EE or maybe short out!!!

Just kidding JS. i know you are made of heavy duty stuff.

Have a bag full of vane sensors, (Hard Ferrite Magnet/Magnets, Hartferrit Magnet, NdFeB Magnet, NdFeB Magnete, SmCo Magnet, Hall current Sensor/transducer, Hall Effect Sensor, Halleffektsensoren, Hallstromsensoren, HKZ101, HKZ121, 2AV16A, 2AV51A, 2AV56) (CYHME301) Any chance you could check out their website and data sheet for sensors and maybe (pretty please) design me a bullet proof circuit for these to switch high power mosfet's for stator electromagnets on MAG3 design.

These are right up my alley as i can precisely machine vane to exactly communicate stators with rotor. also can be mounted on servo adjustable plate for advance and retard in communication with motor load.

Sorry for butting in UFO, just looking forward, now.

Warm Regards, Everybody.

Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

D- Head.

Hello John Stone, UFO, and all,Just beat me UFO, am going to ask JS for help on switching setup for hall sensors.

Don't want to overload EE or maybe short out!!!

Just kidding JS. i know you are made of heavy duty stuff.

Have a bag full of vane sensors, (Hard Ferrite Magnet/Magnets, Hartferrit Magnet, NdFeB Magnet, NdFeB Magnete, SmCo Magnet, Hall current Sensor/transducer, Hall Effect Sensor, Halleffektsensoren, Hallstromsensoren, HKZ101, HKZ121, 2AV16A, 2AV51A, 2AV56) (CYHME301) Any chance you could check out their website and data sheet for sensors and maybe (pretty please) design me a bullet proof circuit for these to switch high power mosfet's for stator electromagnets on MAG3 design.

These are right up my alley as i can precisely machine vane to exactly communicate stators with rotor. also can be mounted on servo adjustable plate for advance and retard in communication with motor load.

Sorry for butting in UFO, just looking forward, now.

Warm Regards, Everybody.

Cornboy.

OOHHH, YEAHHH, forgot PIC.

[JohnStone]

Hi Ufo!
I have less time than usual and try to catch up. Just short reply.

1.
What about using your welder. They are made for secure touching the connections. This tells me that we expect a maximum voltage betwen 24 .... 70V. They are made for current but who cares? With the current control you adjust the maximum current in short circuit case only but at same time the voltage on your DC motor.
Some advanced welders exhibit a ignition HV at first touch but this will not disturb your motor.

1.a If you have a DC welder you are ready to go.
1.b If not: you need to build a rectifier bridge out of massie diodes. If you have access to a welder shop they might have such a "pet" as spare part. Else you can buy diodes like used at car alternators. You get them at eBay like these samples or ready made bridges like
these.

Such setups are available wordwide.

2.
For smooth manual control you can build a pulser UFO-style for those amps. But I would suggest to build enhanced FET drivers in order to get less losses. We can talk later on about this.
1a. FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY: rectified AC can be pulsed directly up to 30% duty cycle. This setup can be lethal! Non professionals stay away from this idea!


3.
Don't care about the controller itself. We will use a simple and cheap micro (12$). (Nico! Do you agree?) The program provided can be updated by anybody via USB and some key strokes. So it can start dead simple and everybody can update further enhancements.

3a. For simple use without frequency control it will measure AC voltage and output variable PWM to the pulser.
3b. For true home energy we will measure AC frequency and output PWM to teh pulser. Voltage control needs to be done seperately at the generator head.

[JohnStone]

OOHHH, YEAHHH, forgot PIC.

You lucky devil . I wish to live in your neigbourhood in order to team up with you. We could perform incredibly. My mechanic expertise is low level!

So what! Use those hall sensors.
Operate them from 12V

1. Add your opto (only one!) with 1KOhm in series between 12V and output.
2. For more output power add a 1K resistor as pullup and drive the input of a 555. Then drive your optos or wahtever power stage you want up to 200 KHz.

For more details I'd need to know waht exactly you want to perform.
JohnS

[nico8k]

Totally Agree!

Yes Sir!, I am totally agree and waiting for instructions

What do you need the Arduino do?

@Ufo No seas un Tano calentón!!! Y deja de responderle a los escépticos idiotas! Jaja Yo tambien soy medio Italiano (Mattícoli mi 2do apellido) y bastante calentón!... pero no lleva a NADA! Abrazo gigante!

Regards to everyone!!

Nico

[Cornboy 555]

I wish to.

You lucky devil . I wish to live in your neigbourhood in order to team up with you. We could perform incredibly. My mechanic expertise is low level!

So what! Use those hall sensors.
Operate them from 12V

1. Add your opto (only one!) with 1KOhm in series between 12V and output.
2. For more output power add a 1K resistor as pullup and drive the input of a 555. Then drive your optos or wahtever power stage you want up to 200 KHz.

For more details I'd need to know waht exactly you want to perform.
JohnS

Thanks John, I will get back to you.

Regards Cornboy.

PS. Maybe one day soon i will have to shout you a plane ticket.

[asollid]

Hello UFO Thanks for directing me to this forum after I watched your U -TUBE about ETERNAL POWER, RE DEFINED 1&2. It took me a month to read all the posts and build a working circuit. I used a coil of 3 ohms wound on a half inchbolt. The oscillator is two 555s. One for frequency (1-200hz) and one for duty cycle. The fet is a IRF 740 and the diodes are MUR460. The batterys are SLA 4ah 12v. CFLs lit up at about 20hz and 50% duty cycle. Then I tried the radio shack 12v motor because i can hear it rev up when i make adjustments. At about 200 hz the little motor sounded like it was going to explode so i tried an electric motor with propeller- that works ok. But not as much rpm. But now I have started to build your bifi coil to the dimensions you specified. I dont have the wire yet(e-bay)but i have built the pvc tube with wooden flanges. Also i have bought two new radio shack motors to build into one asymetrical motor. What i find most fascinating is your "Alien coil". It looks like you have used Xenon tubes insead of FETS. One Xenon tube at each end of the segmented primary coil. By the way, are the primarys bucking or aiding. I kind of suspect they are bucking because that will cause "splatter" of the fields perpendicular to the axis of the primary. And I appreciate your courage to mention the metaphysical qualities of the Radiant Energy. ITS HER!

[asollid]

I forgot to upload this picture