My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[machinealive]

Driving time

@ JohnStone, Thanks again John, I really didn't want you to do all that work, but I really do appreciate it. I owe you some experiment time. Tell me what experiments you want me to run and I'll do it for for you.

I got the driver done. Once the kids go to bed I'm gonna start with the testing circuits. Thanks again JohnStone. Oh yea, John I was really not trying to mod your great work, Once signal leaves the Fod3180, It's the exact same circuit. That was the best laid out circuit, I've ever built. I do have the correct opto's coming.

I'll post a little vid of your "creation" hard at work asap.

Also, If you don't want to post avalanche related material here yet, you can pm me any material you think I should read about, or things I should start thinking about. There is not alot of info out there, that I've found, yet.



edit(UFO and JohnStone I relized I should have 1 or 2 big rheostats in that welder I have.

[JohnStone]

@ JohnStone, Thanks again John, I really didn't want you to do all that work, but I really do appreciate it. I owe you some experiment time. Tell me what experiments you want me to run and I'll do it for for you.

I got the driver done. Once the kids go to bed I'm gonna start with the testing circuits. Thanks again JohnStone. Oh yea, John I was really not trying to mod your great work, Once signal leaves the Fod3180, It's the exact same circuit. That was the best laid out circuit, I've ever built. I do have the correct opto's coming.

I'll post a little vid of your "creation" hard at work asap.

Also, If you don't want to post avalanche related material here yet, you can pm me any material you think I should read about, or things I should start thinking about. There is not alot of info out there, that I've found, yet...

Hi Machine,
do not mind. The circuit was easy to modify because the task was mostly deleteng items. I thought it would be a convenient way to show up with a simpler design for less amperage.

Regarding avalanche: This effect is one of fastes procedures in semiconductor material. (basic knowledge from Fairchild)
I assume SHE will be attacted strongly by those fast changes.
In fact it is similar to using a neon with current limiting resistor and you add a cap across the neon. The cap will charge up to the break down voltage of the neon (ca. 90V) and will discharge suddenly with a flash to the minimum exstinguishing voltage. The prcedure will occure again and again.
At semiconductors built for avalanche - only concern is heat. If we master it we can use it for long time. Unfortunately this effect is not used for MOSFETs and driving will be very different -> a dedicated research if used for high power applications.

Some stuff from IR
same from NXP
Unfortnately I do not find any application using MOSFETs intentionally for this task.

JohnS

[iankoglin]

Kogs first attempt @Target3001

G'Day John Stone
I really appreciate your effort in helping all of us here
I have downloaded Freebie Target 3001 and this is my first effort I am having difficulty in trying to find where I actually draw the backside of the PCB showing holes to be drilled and lands.
I tried to up load this to Photobucked but it would not let me So I joined Dropbox and when I tried to download it from dropbox to my computer it would not allow me to view the PCB layout it came up with an error I know that if I want to send Videos I can insert them into a Word doc and they play OK so I tried the same with the T3001 and it works also

This PWM circuit I am sure outputs square wave pulses to two different series of opto's and they pulse one series when the wave is high and one when the wave is low.
I was intending to use this circuit to pulse using only one side of the wave to several 555 mosfet drivers.

I have loaded the Word doc here it also has the circuit that I copied it was given to me some years ago by Stevan Cerovic he gave it free to use openly

https://www.dropbox.com/home#!/home/...Sharing%20docs

please could you paruse this and perhaps tell me if it should be OK and how to make the drawing of the board?

I did send you a PM but disregard it

Kindest Regards

Always trying and learning

[JohnStone]

Hi Iankoglin,
just first answers in short because I am still at work.
See introductory vids from target 3001. Hit "First steps".
It is no drawing program but a set of specialized commands. You add components and they have all pads and holes necessary included. Diffferent items ere being entered in different drawing layers (imagine transparent foils) . You can switch on and off any layer in order to see what you want to see.
You choose to draw wires the corresponding layer will be used.
The tut. vid shows wery nicely how to draw a simple PCB with two connectors and and LED / resistor.

Usually you draw a schamtic first and then you switch to PCP layout, position your components waiting on richt hand side for your action. They are tied together with grren rupper lines representign the connection drawn in circuit diagram. Then you convert those green rubber lines to solid copper wires by drawing them.
Foloow the vids. It is quite easy.

Unfortunately your link is wrong. It points not to a file.
You should have a dropbox drive in your file explorer. Right klick on the file you want to share and copy public link to your post in this forum.
JohnS

G'Day John Stone
I really appreciate your effort in helping all of us here
I have downloaded Freebie Target 3001 and this is my first effort I am having difficulty in trying to find where I actually draw the backside of the PCB showing holes to be drilled and lands.
I tried to up load this to Photobucked but it would not let me So I joined Dropbox and when I tried to download it from dropbox to my computer it would not allow me to view the PCB layout it came up with an error I know that if I want to send Videos I can insert them into a Word doc and they play OK so I tried the same with the T3001 and it works also

This PWM circuit I am sure outputs square wave pulses to two different series of opto's and they pulse one series when the wave is high and one when the wave is low.
I was intending to use this circuit to pulse using only one side of the wave to several 555 mosfet drivers.

I have loaded the Word doc here it also has the circuit that I copied it was given to me some years ago by Stevan Cerovic he gave it free to use openly

https://www.dropbox.com/home#!/home/...Sharing%20docs

please could you paruse this and perhaps tell me if it should be OK and how to make the drawing of the board?

I did send you a PM but disregard it

Kindest Regards

Always trying and learning

[iankoglin]

Hi Iankoglin,
just first answers in short because I am still at work.
See introductory vids from target 3001. Hit "First steps".
It is no drawing program but a set of specialized commands. You add components and they have all pads and holes necessary included. Diffferent items ere being entered in different drawing layers (imagine transparent foils) . You can switch on and off any layer in order to see what you want to see.
You choose to draw wires the corresponding layer will be used.
The tut. vid shows wery nicely how to draw a simple PCB with two connectors and and LED / resistor.

Usually you draw a schamtic first and then you switch to PCP layout, position your components waiting on richt hand side for your action. They are tied together with grren rupper lines representign the connection drawn in circuit diagram. Then you convert those green rubber lines to solid copper wires by drawing them.
Foloow the vids. It is quite easy.

Unfortunately your link is wrong. It points not to a file.
You should have a dropbox drive in your file explorer. Right klick on the file you want to share and copy public link to your post in this forum.
JohnS

G'Day John
Thanks for your reply
I think I have it OK now

This is a word doc

https://www.dropbox.com/s/i9pylsql07...0%20SG3525.doc

this is the Target T3001 file
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7vl6pbia43...0ver%201.T3001

Kindest regards

[prochiro]

Monster Pulser

@JohnStone and/ or Machinealive

I am having issues with the pulser as there is current in the drain and source even with no battery connection to them. I may have something wrong. Just wanted to see how other projects are coming and if successful befor I tear it apart any more.
Dana

[JohnStone]

.......
https://www.dropbox.com/s/i9pylsql07...0%20SG3525.doc

this is the Target T3001 file
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7vl6pbia43...0ver%201.T3001
....

1.
Wow, that chip SG3532 is great
• 8.0 V to 35 V Operation
• 5.1 V 1.0% Trimmed Reference
• 100 Hz to 400 kHz Oscillator Range
• Dual Source/Sink Outputs: 400 mA Peak
• 600ns rise time / 300ns fall time when driving a FET directly (1nF load)

2.
- Glad you seem to master target 3001. Nice circuit diagram.
- You have a drawing problem at R2. You run VCC wire across the R2 connector - move this wire to left.
- Two capacitors 100nF ceramic missing at pin 13 and 14 to GND. Add an additional cap of 10µF between power feed and GND.
- R1, R2 are calculated for about 12V operationg voltage (not less!)
- You might want to supply this circuit with a socket charger in order to not dedicate a lab PSU for this generator.
- Add a 1N400X diode at + supply pins in order to prevent damage by accidetly reverse power connections.

- Watch more tutorial vids! You will get perfect!

3.
- At PCB you should draw wires with 50 mil and aura 25 mil in order to get them edged properly.
- Prevent 90degree edges wherever possible. Adjust drawing angles here:

- The wires are seen from top of PCB as if PCB were transparent. If you want to edge you need to print it 1:1 regarding PCB border and flip the grafic in any grafic program.
- Grid: Shift F5 and switch grid on and set it to 100 mil (like bread boards) and set it to show every gird point (standard eery second). Then you have an imagination on distances. You can reduce distances.
- Adjust components to this grid. (select component, right mouse button, hit menue 4th choice from bottom "shift to grid").

Continue! You will get a master!
JohnS

[machinealive]

controller

Hey Dana, JohnStone

OK, Well last time I posted I thought I had the circiut beat, but.... I had a nice pulse at the gate but try as i might I could not get fets to switch, i checked over and over.
So I rebuilt the circuit, pulsing the nand with no opto, promise I will put one in as soon as they arrive, and just now I am able to get neons to light, with two fets in parallel. .

I think I may have figured out the original circuit problem, now, and I will look at that today, I will post Dana, as soon as it works. I had to get something going to pulse that motor, I could care less if the fets cook, at this point, I gotta see that motor pulsed.

I did nothing to your circuit, JohnStone but leave out the opto,

The rheostat from the old welding machine is 66 ohms, and seems ok, for being in a junk heap outside for ten years. Hopefully that will keep the starting amps down. Johnstone, UFO, Dana, would you guys bother with using the rheostat.

edit( Hey, just got the neons flashing with the original circuit, there is quite a bit of oscillations at gate, I noticed that with both circuits)

[JohnStone]

.....

The rheostat from the old welding machine is 66 ohms, and seems ok, for being in a junk heap outside for ten years. Hopefully that will keep the starting amps down. Johnstone, UFO, Dana, would you guys bother with using the rheostat.

A rheostat is an ideal means in order to protect all sorts of equipment.
But please be aware that if you reduce the resistance to minute values ALL heat focuses on that short part being still active in your rheostat. That might kill it within short time.

Please be aware that you are not allowed to drive those gates 74HC132 above 5V!
JohnS.

[machinealive]

Here is a little vid of the monster finally AWAKE, but groggy

JohnStone's Monster Is Alive Video by machinealive | Photobucket

[JohnStone]

Arduino

Hi Nico,
Cornboy is eager to buy an Arduino and he suggests to use the micro. There are good reasons to use it beause it is a recent design and will be available for long time. It is compatible to Leonordo as well. I see an andvantage to have more ports available for future use.
Will it be OK if we suggest this micro (Leonardo or micro) to all those guys out there being eager to start with Arduino generator?

See differences to uno/nano

BTW: I succeeded in generating multi pulse actions out of a predefined data array. Just proof of concept. Pulses and timing can be set deliberately for up to 8 channels (bits of a port)
JohnS

[JohnStone]

Here is a little vid of the monster finally AWAKE, but groggy

JohnStone's Monster Is Alive Video by machinealive | Photobucket

Hi Machine,
GRRRRREAT! I still wait for material from Farnell.

Did you measure how fast FETs switch? I am eager to know quality of switching.

Please be aware those resistors between driver and gate need to be tuned as low as possible in order to just prevent oscillaltions: else-> slow switching!) No power types required. You have quite long distance between driver and gates.
It will pay to test with resistors short circuit. If no oscillations occure -> great! But you need to test at higher amps with resistive load.

I missed GND wires in your vid from driver pin5 in prallel to resistors to the respective source pins of FETs. The current back path needs to run just near to and opposite to drive path in order to make FETs switching fast and avoid spurious oscillations. (Imagine current likes highways)

JohnS

[Cornboy 555]

Basic Stuff

Good one Machine, look forward to you pulsing that beast with a monster.

@ Jonh Stone, i am preparing to build pulsing units for MAG3, i will use seperate 12v SLA to power drivers and 74HC so will use7805 for 74HC and direct power from battery with resistor, not 7812? am i looking at this correctly?

If this is correct i notice max input current for micrel is 50MA, what current would you recomend for powerfull but long opperation, and what wattage and ohm's value for resistor?

Displaying my very limited electronics knowledge here, these are basic questions, i know.

Thanks in advance Cornboy.

[iankoglin]

1.
Wow, that chip SG3532 is great
• 8.0 V to 35 V Operation
• 5.1 V 1.0% Trimmed Reference
• 100 Hz to 400 kHz Oscillator Range
• Dual Source/Sink Outputs: 400 mA Peak
• 600ns rise time / 300ns fall time when driving a FET directly (1nF load)

- Two capacitors 100nF ceramic missing at pin 13 and 14 to GND.

Add an additional cap of 10µF between power feed and GND.
- R1, R2 are calculated for about 12V operationg voltage (not less!)
- You might want to supply this circuit with a socket charger in order to not dedicate a lab PSU for this generator.

- Add a 1N400X diode at + supply pins in order to prevent damage by accidetly reverse power connections.

- Watch more tutorial vids! You will get perfect!


- The wires are seen from top of PCB as if PCB were transparent. If you want to etch you need to print it 1:1 regarding PCB border and flip the grafic in any grafic program.
- Grid: Shift F5 and switch grid on and set it to 100 mil (like bread boards) and set it to show every gird point (standard eery second). Then you have an imagination on distances. You can reduce distances.
- Adjust components to this grid. (select component, right mouse button, hit menue 4th choice from bottom "shift to grid").

Continue! You will get a master!
JohnS

G'Day John
Here is my Updated Drawing

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a7pm9a4fn0...%20Ver2b.T3001

Please could you explain where
1. Two capacitors 100nF ceramic missing at pin 13 and 14 to GND .

2. Add an additional cap of 10µF between power feed and GND does it fit across pos and neg after the diodes ?.

3. I want to use a voltage regulator so please what is the max voltage to input to this circiut ?.

4. Are the In400x diodes correct?

I really appreciate your input
Kindest regards


Always asking Questions

[IndianaBoys]

Hello Warren,

Great BUT...notice on video when you first start orange light comes out too strong...it should NOT be that way...you have some problems at the resistors (two) and the Potentiometer could be either not the right 250 KOhms...or have to adjust it to almost ZERO frequency at start.

Normally there always would be a first flash out at start...but then it should go off completely...and zero on frequency meters...then the dialing should be VERY SLOW...Radiant higher percentages/orange very low to NONE... should manifest at VERY LOW Pulses...

Remember Purple Light is Radiant...Hot is Orange...so that is your "Light Monitor" there...

I tell you what I did:

The two resistors that attach to POT, instead of using typical resistors...I used very small trimmers or very small potentiometers that could be regulated only with a small flat PLASTIC screw driver...NOW, the side that connects to Power Source Positive, no diodes, leg 4-8...be very careful adjusting it!...if you reduce resistance too low...you will definitively blow your Oscillator IC, so I recommend to adjust using a Meter hook to the two Trimmer terminals...NEVER BY EYES AND EARS!

Also set main POT Wiper at the LOWEST STARTING FREQUENCY STAGE (MAX Resistance Value) to do this adjustments.

I also used a VERNIER DIAL attached to POT shaft...this way you reduce the traveling when dialing by hand.

Last thing...this circuit should be grounded to chassis...to avoid interference with your hands ground and POT Regulations that normally tends to jump up the frequency at contact...

Vernier dialer's are isolated...but if using direct POT make sure the Knob is Plastic....You are dialing directly with your hands...NOT GOOD either!...This circuit is very sensitive.


Regards and hoping to see that Radiant Beautiful light soon!


Ufopolitics

UfoPolitics,

Ran across some great work WarrenSK is doing on Validation over at the Earth Ion Energy Forum:
VALIDATION 2

Subject: Asymmetrical Motor as Radiant Generator 3rd February 2013, 00:13
Hey all,

After building one of UFOPOLITICS modified asymmetric radioshack motors, I used the radiant output as the secondary in the circuit and got some interesting results. Since it has an input of hot and an output of radiant (Just like the circuit), I think a motor can be tuned to the environment this way. Perhaps it can be used to excite a larger coil into resonance. It's much like the schematic instead the coils are rotating in 3D and it also acts as a mechanical oscillator (no more burning out transistors and fets). Commutators can be modified for shorter switching times or faster off times. An array of asymmetrical wiring diagrams can be thought of and made with plexiglass, hole cutting drill bits and some super glue. Secondaries can be wrapped and connected with a dual commutator design much like teslas patents for his more advanced generators. I think Ill be heading the mechanical direction for oscillators and generators. Also going to try and make an ion valve and stimulate it with the output of the generator.


Asymmetric motor with radiant energy receiver circuit - Published on Feb 1, 2013
Asymmetric motor with radiant energy receiver circuit - YouTube

IndianaBoys