My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[tomturbo80]

Hi all,
I know, you're already much further with your monster driver, but I would again as a question about ufo's first circuit.
My setup with 1 FET and my setup with 6FET's work only correctly if I remove the 15k (after 100Ohm of PIN3) and 47k´s (of gate) to GND.

Also in the simulation the precipitous flanks remain after remove resistors?!
Would be very grateful for help.
nice greets
tomturbo80

[prochiro]

Hi tomturbo80
As I recall that circuit worked as shown. There was two versions of that circuit. The one you should be working on has a wire from D3 running more or less straight down to ground on bottom of picture. Are you using 36 volts? That might make the difference. The 47K's are so high resistance that removing them should not make that much difference unless you had them tied in series rather than parallel. I believe they were to prevent overload as a pull-down to get fets off fast. Check your circuit for any other difference in parts and correct method of wireing. Helping you is our pleasure, just make sure that every posted question keeps us informed of the exact circuit you are working on as JohnStone asked. UFO has gotten a lot of miles on that circuit.
Dana

[JohnStone]

Manual for Monster Driver 5.1

Thanks for your patience!

• Now I dare to release LAB NOTE 004 - the current manual for Monster Driver V5.1. It is still labelled with "prerelease". It will be finally released if several replications were proved to perform well.
• First publication in the forum was here
• Discussions and valuable knowledge can be found starting with this post
• Data published for milling here

I am so sorry that some of you are not experienced in electronics. Thus you might get lost. I tried my best in order to keep things simple and understandable by non professionals. Else consult the forum where I posted plenty of knowledge regarding FETs and other electronic knowledge.

I enjoyed developing this driver and sharing it with YOU. I will focus from now on preferred on Arduino control and own lab work.

BTW: I remeber there was a discussion regarding a company being eager to rebuild such circuits? Was it Sparkfun? They build PWM pulsers as well. If they are interested and build this driver we could get plenty of professionally made drivers? Some suggestions?
JohnS

[Cornboy 555]

RMCybernetics.

Thanks for your patience!

• Now I dare to release LAB NOTE 004 - the current manual for Monster Driver V5.1. It is still labelled with "prerelease". It will be finally released if several replications were proved to perform well.
• First publication in the forum was here
• Discussions and valuable knowledge can be found starting with this post
• Data published for milling here

I am so sorry that some of you are not experienced in electronics. Thus you might get lost. I tried my best in order to keep things simple and understandable by non professionals. Else consult the forum where I posted plenty of knowledge regarding FETs and other electronic knowledge.

I enjoyed developing this driver and sharing it with YOU. I will focus from now on preferred on Arduino control and own lab work.

BTW: I remeber there was a discussion regarding a company being eager to rebuild such circuits? Was it Sparkfun? They build PWM pulsers as well. If they are interested and build this driver we could get plenty of professionally made drivers? Some suggestions?
JohnS

Hello John, RM Cybernetics in England would build this driver for us, but i wouldn't feel confident enough to talk to them about it myself.

I am sure you or Dana could communicate what was necessary.

Regards Cornboy.

[Donald Haas]

Donald,
please note there are two different sets of data available:
Initial realease as PDF:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post224329
Same release but manufacturing data being generated automatically by CAD: http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post224748

Some text was entered in PDF manually for explanation. Thus it is no wonder to have some differences being of no importance for the layout. But I admit you are very attentive!

Sorry for confusion!

Please do not use grafic dataout of my V4 PDF for layout. I will revide it soon to be conforming V5.1 version.
JohnS

Hi JohnS,
Thanks for the response.
I worded my question with redundance to the point of confusion.

If Dana's pic and the mirror image in V5.1 are identical then there seems to be an error.
The unaltered pic of the copper etched on the bottom of the pcb has to be the "anti-mirror".

Please check,

Regards,

Donald

[prochiro]

Donald, Donald Donald
The PDF picture is the one you print on a laser printer and heat press on the back side. I did that and it works fine. I also got into T3001 and exported the G-code for the bottom (which had no writing on it and automatically mirrored), then ran the three files on the mill. one for holes, one for isolation of wires, and one for removal of all extra copper surface. You are looking at the bottom of my board so flip it over in your mind and see it like JohnStones pictures. It is confusing if you mix both types of production in your mind at the same time.
Dana

[Zardox]

Just a quick thank you to JohnStone.
That is a very nice professional looking circuit and manual you have designed.
I personally wish to thank you for your generosity and hard work.
Thank you for sharing.

[Donald Haas]

Donald, Donald Donald
The PDF picture is the one you print on a laser printer and heat press on the back side. I did that and it works fine. I also got into T3001 and exported the G-code for the bottom (which had no writing on it and automatically mirrored), then ran the three files on the mill. one for holes, one for isolation of wires, and one for removal of all extra copper surface. You are looking at the bottom of my board so flip it over in your mind and see it like JohnStones pictures. It is confusing if you mix both types of production in your mind at the same time.
Dana

mirrored

MIRRORED Photo by brodonh | Photobucket

unmirrored

MIRRORED Photo by brodonh | Photobucket

Attempting to save some time and grief.

bro d

[JohnStone]

Hello John, RM Cybernetics in England would build this driver for us, but i wouldn't feel confident enough to talk to them about it myself.

I am sure you or Dana could communicate what was necessary.

Regards Cornboy.

Thanks for hint. I dropped a message to them. I offered the pulser as open source for them and asked for a quote for 20 kits.
JohnS

[JohnStone]

mirrored

MIRRORED Photo by brodonh | Photobucket

unmirrored

MIRRORED Photo by brodonh | Photobucket

Attempting to save some time and grief.

bro d

If you want to know the absolute, ultimate, incorrupt truth look at the bottom side of the 3D view in manual (appendix)

[JohnStone]

Warresk posted in teh otehr thread:

Hello,

I totally just threw this together. I dont have too much knowledge with electronics but I like to try and figure things out and build my own. Please let me know what you guys think of it....ways to improve it?

Im currently running ableton (which i used to use for DJing) with analog, outputting a square wave with width modulation, rectifying it with a diode and using the signal to switch 2 mpsa06 transistors in parallel. Ive got 12 volts across the transistors which in turn switch 3 irf740a mosfets in parallel. The fets then switch my power supply of 13.8 volts (i need to get some rechargeable batteries) acrpss the motor.

It works great and allows for some interesting types of pulsing.

Heres a video of the setup:

Asymmetric motor pulsed with audio signal +radiant energy circuit - YouTube

Thanks for any feedback!

Warrensk

Hi Warrensk,
as I mentioned before you are inventive! Unfortunately your driver circuit is less effitient, dangerous for your FETs.
Different from transistor a FET is being controlled by voltage and not by current. Imagine a FET to have a parasitic capacitor between gate and drain (1nF). You charge it but have no means for discharge. So the shut down is undefined.
If you decide to use a NE555 circuit as simple FET driver you will get a major enhancement.
More advise on request.
JohnS

[prochiro]

@bro d and all
When making a PCB board with the etching method follow this procedure.
1. Print out the drawing at the bottom of the V5.1 manual.
2. Lay the copper clad board out on the table so that the copper side is up.
3. Turn the printed picture over so that the print side is down and lay it on the copper top.
4. This is the correct orientation for etching. There are many internet references on how to etch. Clean it up with a lacquer thinned rag to get any unwanted lines and such off the board before heating and again after etching to get it clean and bright.
5. What you will see on your board is the correct back of JohnStones drawing.
6. I really hesitate to get into a conversation of mirrored or not mirrored as it gets crazy relative to if you are doing a one or two sided wired board. It just happens that JS has printed the top drawing here and for a one sided bottom, it is the same LOOK as the bottom mirror print.
Dana

[prochiro]

resistors

@JohnStone
John, which resistor should I play with to get better pulse after the opto. I am getting improper mix and always on state into IC4. Is it the 470 Ohm resistor? What ever one it is may need to be greater resistance. System supply is 18V and getting a clean 12 volts thru 7812.
Dana

[JohnStone]

@JohnStone
John, which resistor should I play with to get better pulse after the opto. I am getting improper mix and always on state into IC4. Is it the 470 Ohm resistor? What ever one it is may need to be greater resistance. System supply is 18V and getting a clean 12 volts thru 7812.
Dana

Sorry - optos seem to refuse cooperating with you

Test procedure:
1. disconnect generator from driver board and energize driver board
2. check opto pin 4 to have 5V
... if not you have wrong 5V supply or wrong wiring
3. check opto pin 3 to have 0V
.... if not -> your opto output is defective (shorted collector emitter) or R1 is not 470R or wrong wiring. (R1 is calculated for 10mA@5V)
4. connect at connector K1
.....pin 3+4 / 2+1 / verify pin 1 to be on GND
.....LED from 12V to K1 pin 5
5. disconenct LED from 12V / disconenct pin 1+2
6. Check generator output to pulse with 12V
..... R2 is calcualted for 12mA@12V
..... for generator 5V pulse make R2 to eb 470Ohm
7. connect GND of generator to K1 pin 2 and output to LED at pin 5
.... LED shall blink with frequency
.... opto pin 3 shall go high if LED at K1 pin 5 is on and vice versa

- Please check and post at what action you get stuck.
- Please post your gen output circuit. Is it a push pull output like 555 or LM324/358 or pull down with pullup resistor like LM339/393 .......

BTW: I just detected the drawing of opto is erroneous. The letters E an C neeed to be changed - but the pin numers are OK.

Good luck!
JohnS

[iankoglin]

QUOTE=JohnStone;225069]Hi,
well all is fine. And you found how to add those jumpers! Great.
One hint: I doubt you intentonally added unplorized film caps 47µ. Try to replace them by electrolitic ones 30....50V depending on your PSU planned.
Howto:
selct both caps 47µ (with CTRL key pressed) in schematic
Go to menu "components" -> "replace components" -> selcet corresponding electriolitic cap in the components view -> replace
Then adjust them in PCB view.
John[/QUOTE]

G'Day John
I have included a WORD doc that contains drawings and T3001 circuits
I have been busy drawing up Your Fet Driver with 555 ver 3
each one of these drivers is connected to my SG3525 PWM
I will have 0ne driver from each each of the top 3 opto's as these ones are I believe on when the square wave is high, the bottom 3 Opto's are when the square wave is low each driver will drive two mosfets with short same length twisted DC high current leads that will allow me to drive 6 mosfets

Please if you have some time to paruse these T3001 circuits for me and let me know if they should be OK I would appreciate it as I want to build them and test them.

And after the testing Proves OK then I want to drive a small mobility scooter motor modified with these 6 mosfet in my Happy motor circuit with 36v (three 12v car batteries in series) and using voltage regulators to step down the voltage for firstly the SG3525 Oscillator then again for the NE555 Mosfet drivers.

Please another question
With the SG3525 Oscillator How many Opto's do you think I could run and could I use the bottom Opto's or just have more top ones and delete the bottom ones?

Here is the link to the Word doc

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2341hp2yu1...t%20driver.doc[
Kindest Regards Kogs