My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy

[Cornboy 555]

Hello Garry, like DANA says, open a free account with photobucket, then upload your images, to there. when images are at photobucket, go to your library, put cusser on photo you wish to share, and click share, then click on top RH -- links, then click on IMG codes, it will go coloured, yellow i think, that will copy photo.

I always start my post first, then transfer photo, to post on forum, you click on small yellow square, which says insert image, a box comes up, then right click on blank box and choose paste, and then ok.

Hope i havn't confused you any.

Please keep asking if un clear.

Regards Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

Hey John Stone, thanks for final instructable, very much appreciated, will try to get it completed tonight, and scope final output, to post here.

Thanks Again Friend Cornboy.

[prochiro]

I urge you to add some additional protection components:[/COLOR]
A: Add a neon in parallel to FET pin 2, 3. It will light above 90V. Check with motor under load if it lights. If yes replace neon by two or three of them in series.
B: Add a fast diode in parallel to FET pin 2,3. There are operating conditions where the internal parasitic diode is not fast enough in order to protect from reverse polarity when inductive loads are being switched off.
C: You might want to add a so called snubber circuit in parallel to above circuts: Resistor 68 Ohm and cap 390pf 500V in series.

@JS
Just to make sure I am thinking correctly, on item B, the diode is from pin 3 to 2 , correct. Would a 1N914 or be enough? I also see on some diagrams both item A and B inserted. Good or bad here: I am doing fast and high revving tests from 12V to ?
Dana

[JohnStone]

Hi Dana,
there are several possible deseases we need to cure. AS I still wait for my PCDs it is a kind of blind flight for me - and unfortunately for you.
FETs can break down because of too hihg voltage but they suffer on too fast voltage increase as well. Then they might break down at lower voltage than specified.
Sorry for being superficious at last paragraph at my yesterday post. It was late night.

A: Using neons is the first cheap approach for curing overvoltage and adds the advantage that you can see if they are active and perform their dedication. Fortunately neons are quite fast as well.

B: Any FET has an intrinsic parasitic diode because of semiconductor process. This diode protects the FET from reverse voltage by shorting D/S in this case but for reverse voltage only - of course. This case occures if we drive a coil / motor and at switch off it starts oscillating with its natural frequency. Now tehre are cases wher the negative voltage occures instantly and increases to dangerous values BEFORE this intrinsic diode awakes from snoozing. Because auf manufacturing process of FETs it can not bemade fast er. In these cases we add an exrernal fast diode in order to act in right time omitting nay action of the intrinsic diode.
1N914 is fast but 100V only. It will die instantly if spikes go well above 100V . But together with one single neon it might do well. Just now I have no recommendation because there are thousends of types available. You may ask here for types you have available. I will consult for you data sheet.

C: The snubber components can be added in order to slow down excessive steep voltage increase (steepness of edges) and protect FET form lower voltage breakdown. They consume the energy for short time and make edges less steep.

All of those measures degrade switching capability a bit. Therefore they shall be added if required only. Those cases depend strongly on individual setup (L of motor, current, voltage .....).
As the reports state that gate resitors die I assume a voltge breakdown from drain to gate. Is there any knowledge what components die aside gate resistors. Such info might give some hints to real cause of problem.

JS

[Ufopolitics]

Just a Thought...

Hi Dana,
there are several possible deseases we need to cure. AS I still wait for my PCDs it is a kind of blind flight for me - and unfortunately for you.
FETs can break down because of too hihg voltage but they suffer on too fast voltage increase as well. Then they might break down at lower voltage than specified.
Sorry for being superficious at last paragraph at my yesterday post. It was late night.

A: Using neons is the first cheap approach for curing overvoltage and adds the advantage that you can see if they are active and perform their dedication. Fortunately neons are quite fast as well.

B: Any FET has an intrinsic parasitic diode because of semiconductor process. This diode protects the FET from reverse voltage by shorting D/S in this case but for reverse voltage only - of course. This case occures if we drive a coil / motor and at switch off it starts oscillating with its natural frequency. Now tehre are cases wher the negative voltage occures instantly and increases to dangerous values BEFORE this intrinsic diode awakes from snoozing. Because auf manufacturing process of FETs it can not bemade fast er. In these cases we add an exrernal fast diode in order to act in right time omitting nay action of the intrinsic diode.
1N914 is fast but 100V only. It will die instantly if spikes go well above 100V . But together with one single neon it might do well. Just now I have no recommendation because there are thousends of types available. You may ask here for types you have available. I will consult for you data sheet.

C: The snubber components can be added in order to slow down excessive steep voltage increase (steepness of edges) and protect FET form lower voltage breakdown. They consume the energy for short time and make edges less steep.

All of those measures degrade switching capability a bit. Therefore they shall be added if required only. Those cases depend strongly on individual setup (L of motor, current, voltage .....).
As the reports state that gate resitors die I assume a voltge breakdown from drain to gate. Is there any knowledge what components die aside gate resistors. Such info might give some hints to real cause of problem.

JS

Hello John Stone, Hello All,

I was thinking (and it is just a "fast" thought)...I highly could be very wrong...

Could we add Higher Wattage resistors at Gates?

It seems like the FET's are allowing certain HV flow back through their Semi-Conducting Internal composition from Drain to Gate...and they do not blow simply because their High Voltage rating (600V)...(also have in mind the speed and Capacity of Radiant Energy...SHE will make paths where there are none) but burning resistors from a "backend flow"...as I have not heard that the component before resistors gets damaged....which I believe is the opto?

Is just a thought.


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

If the driver can source 12amps briefly, at 12 v. That's 144 watts. That is why resistors are frying? I didn't lose any fets, on new board, just resistors. So 12v/20ohm is only 600 ma. I never had a chance to try the 20 ohms yet, until i finish with the hgs, but I'm sure they would be fine. I still wonder how Dana is getting away with using 1 ohm.

[GChilders]

Pics

@Cornboy, Dana

Thanks for the info on pics. I thought it was something like that. Anyway I will open a photobucket account.

@ John Stone

John I couldn't find a voltage regulator 7805, or 7812 will the LM7805CT, and LM7812CT by Fairchild work ok.

Thanks Garry

[prochiro]

Garry
Typically. the 7805 series carry a current from 1 to 1.5 amps. For practical purposes, they can be considered the same for most cases. Some are labeled "L", "LM", and some just a 7805. The letters after the number are a little more important but not really for us. If you want a 7805 and 7812 just look for those numbers and order some. I use what is called L7805cv.

Now if you are ordering diodes for the monster, that is different. We then find that the name of those diodes has many sub types that are selected by just what we want the diode to do or withstand. If your fet type changes, so does the diode type.
Dana

[Cornboy 555]

Monster In The House.

Hello all, it's alive and Kickin', my first Monster, and i mean kickin, dont touch the heatsink when you are pulsing a coil without diodes fitted to take away the lady!!

The three neons were lighting at 2HZ with 12V, pulsing a coil of 2.4 ohm 1mm wire, so i didn't push it any further.

Still waiting for Cree SiC diodes, then i will make a small vid of some experiments, i've been wanting to do, finally with a pulser that's designed Strong.

Thanks JS, and Sampojo.

I installed Fets on top side and heavy wiring and gate resistors, on bottom, trying to get as compact and thin as possible, will be mounting 9 of these in an aluminium case with fan.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

@ JS, nice square wave at gate, with no resistors, and at 2.5Ns on scope showed around 1.7 Mhz ocillation, in the shape of a sine wave, so i fitted 4 ohm resistors, and still same ocillation.

Slow pulsing a coil, at 2hz, nothing showed the slightest sine of any heat. went up to 13Khz, with light bulb 12v, no heat anywhere.

Have to go make a livin, packing eggs today.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[JohnStone]

@UFO: In terms of conventional electronics those resistors will not get overloead unless we pulse them in MHz ramge. There is not parasitic component in the FET being able to deliver such current without damage of FET.
But you are completely right: radiant pefroms conforming additional physics and migh thave a secret tunnel through FETs.
As tradeoff I suggest to add several resistors in parallel i.e. 5 x 100Ohm or what you have in your scrab box. But please use metal film or carbon composit resitors. Standard carbon film ones have acarbon coating and for value adjustemnt they mill a spiral around. This shape IS in fact a COIL as well and might foster oscillations.

Carbon composition:
[IMG]

Carbon film (inductive):



Reviewing current production technology for metal film resitors I detected that some manufactureres use helical trim as well.

But if we decide to stack those resistors we can use SMT types (recommendation: size 1206).
1206 (3216 metric): 3.2 mm × 1.6 mm (0.13 in × 0.063 in). Typical power rating for resistors = 0.25 watt
Those have surely minimal inductance possible.

@Garry: Sorrry for not specifying exact types of xx7805xx. The advice you got from others is correct. Nothing to add.

@Cornboy: Congratulations: You can be proud of you! Very well manufactured. We pomized you to get here to - is it? I hope others working in obscure are as successful.
You might buy a bunch of 100Ohm 1206 resitors and try to get rid of those 1.7 MHz oscillations. Those resistors cost allmost nothing.
JS

[prochiro]

Cornboy

Still waiting for Cree SiC diodes

Are those diodes for the mosfet or what. If for fet, I wonder what diode you have selected as I am having trouble selecting a diode with enough voltage. As for other Cree products, the CREE SiC-FETs from are 47.00 dollars but that just may be the cost of making things go fast.
Dana

[Cornboy 555]

Cornboy



Are those diodes for the mosfet or what. If for fet, I wonder what diode you have selected as I am having trouble selecting a diode with enough voltage. As for other Cree products, the CREE SiC-FETs from are 47.00 dollars but that just may be the cost of making things go fast.
Dana

Hi DANA, i am getting C2D10120A, 1200v 25A, you could use them across the fets, for extra protection, i am using them for radiant experiments, now that i have a reliable pulser.

I have three neons across outlet on pulser and have already tried 50 Ns diodes, as soon as you introduce a path for her majisty, the neons won't light, i am hoping with the Sic diodes with no reverse time, they will let here out, with more amperage, before she increases so far in voltage.

I will do a proper set up and vid it for all.

Regards Cornboy.

[Ufopolitics]

About HER...

Hi DANA, i am getting C2D10120A, 1200v 25A, you could use them across the fets, for extra protection, i am using them for radiant experiments, now that i have a reliable pulser.

I have three neons across outlet on pulser and have already tried 50 Ns diodes, as soon as you introduce a path for her majisty, the neons won't light, i am hoping with the Sic diodes with no reverse time, they will let here out, with more amperage, before she increases so far in voltage.

I will do a proper set up and vid it for all.

Regards Cornboy.

Hello Cornboy,

One small advice...

Whenever you allow a Path for "Her Majesty"...please do not do it at High Pulses/High Frequency...or High Duty...or else SHE will keep blowing any neon's you connect in Her path.

Try very low pulses first, meaning from 4-8 Hertz...9 MAX...then you will see Her purple light (plasma ball) on Neons...but you will also see some orange (Hot) Light, but at those low pulses SHE will prevail...Hot would be weak.

Neon's can not afford the presence of both Energies at higher pulses...

Just some hints to have some fun.


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

Hello Cornboy,

One small advice...

Whenever you allow a Path for "Her Majesty"...please do not do it at High Pulses/High Frequency...or High Duty...or else SHE will keep blowing any neon's you connect in Her path.

Try very low pulses first, meaning from 4-8 Hertz...9 MAX...then you will see Her purple light (plasma ball) on Neons...but you will also see some orange (Hot) Light, but at those low pulses SHE will prevail...Hot would be weak.

Neon's can not afford the presence of both Energies at higher pulses...

Just some hints to have some fun.


Warm regards


Ufopolitics

Thanks UFO, i have noticed already, the reverse flow is strong at low Htz, as i increase frequency on the coil i am pulsing the reverse flow seems to weaken, and the magnetic strength of the powdered iron core, weakens also.

i have tried different coils, with smaller wire size- more resistance, and am starting to get a practical picture now, of what is needed for maximum magnetic strength in our motor cores and windings.

i would say the balance will need to be between semi conductors, that can handle the backlash, and heat death of all our motor parts, to find max magnetic strength.

Still Learning!

Regards Cornboy.

[GChilders]

RadiantMotorControlVersion0.0.3

@all
I have finished version 0.0.3 of the Radiant Motor Control Program. This will be the last version that can be used without a timing device as I will release version 0.0.4 later this week and it will implement code that will only work with a timing device installed on the motor. Please read the tutorial for version 0.0.3. If you are familiar with version 0.0.1 just read the section titled what is new in version 0.0.3. This will explain the changes in detail and what new actions are needed from you to use the program.

Here are the links:
Program

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/l99zm97c724pwhh/O_gXfETTF0

Tutorial

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jd2c6y9dtx....3Tutorial.rtf

As always use it, modify it to fit your needs.

Cheers

Garry