3 Battery Generating System

[Turion]

Rotor?

Wantomake,
I remember sending you a rotor. But I have sent so much stuff to so many different people I don’t remember if I sent you the magnets you need. If not, let me know. I think I might have some lying around. I’ve gone to 12 magnets on the rotor instead of six, and smaller, thicker magnets.

I have probably said this before, but I have a separate machine that holds a single coil and I can switch out the coil and rotor on it for testing. With six 2”x 1/4” magnets on the rotor I get “X” output. When I went to 1” x 1/4 magnets I got 75% of “X”. But since I could put twice as many of them on the rotor my total output was 150% of “X”. Then I increased the thickness of the magnets to 1/2” and my output went up over 200% of “X”.

Now this is just data running ONE coil, but if it works out to be the same kind of output for ALL the coils, I will be very happy, since all the info about generator output I have given on this thread was for the machine with 12 coils and six of the 2”x 1/4” magnets.

The machine I am putting back together is only a TEN coil machine, not 12, so it will not have as many coils to produce power, but my hope is that because I have gone to the smaller thicker magnets that I can get more of on a rotor, the output will be the same or MORE than what the bigger machine was getting.

[Turion]

Printing

automan,
Bob was going to call you a week ago. I told him I was going to call you just to get caught up, but then my daughter lost her baby and I had to go out of town. Probably first of the week I will give you a call. Bob has been drawing everything up. I just don’t have any time.

[automan]

If I can help

Hey Dave, I'm always available to help with CAD, printing or CNC if needed. Contact me anytime buddy.

[wantomake]

I want one

I tried several things attached to the core to try and absorb the heat. I tried this without lengthening the coil core and it seemed to work, but leaked like crazy. I do NOT know for sure how the longer core will affect coil output or the heat issue, but the water, and the fact that the bottle of water is also surrounded by air seemed to negate the heat issue completely. A death in the family has kept me out of town for the last week, but while I was gone my mom totally organized my shop, so when I get home I will be able to get back to work on this at least a little in the evenings now that I have some bench space to actually put a machine together again. It may take me a couple weeks as I have to wind an entire NEW set of coils as I melted the last set, but as I assemble this thing I am going to put together a set of instructional videos.

I have been talking with Bob French and we are considering putting together a small three coil prototype unit that we will use to demonstrate how all these principles work and that they DO work, and then find someone with a 3D printer who can make a “kit” for those who are interested. We have NO interest in getting into marketing anything to anybody. No TIME. But when we prove it all works, maybe someone will step up. We figure we may be able to produce power AND heat water with a properly built machine.

Turion,
I've got the rotor still. Not done any shop work in months.

I would be interested in a kit.
Thanks
wantomake

[liber63]

Hi Dave,
Good idea for the plastic container. I 've just burned a spool today when testing a coil. Fortunately not the wire. Been testing only few last weeks with lots of time on fixing, rearranging, trying to secure and fixing again. A lot of work on mechanic part. Tried few different things with the negating magnets but could not find the right spot. Maybe i will try with much smaller magnets.
I use just a fat bolt for core on the coil for start, just learning swimming, and today I used the same bolt but more than double the size. Did not seem to diminish the output. But this is based on my original tests that had been made with bolt 1/2 longer than the coil already.

[Turion]

$$$

I have no plans or even a desire to make $$ off the generator. It is there for everyone to build and benefit from. Or not. I have done MY part. What people choose to do or NOT do with it is up to them. I do intend to show a working unit over the next couple months as time allows, with measurements to put to rest all the BS I have put up with on this forum.

[Sawt2]

I tried several things attached to the core to try and absorb the heat. I tried this without lengthening the coil core and it seemed to work, but leaked like crazy. I do NOT know for sure how the longer core will affect coil output or the heat issue, but the water, and the fact that the bottle of water is also surrounded by air seemed to negate the heat issue completely. A death in the family has kept me out of town for the last week, but while I was gone my mom totally organized my shop, so when I get home I will be able to get back to work on this at least a little in the evenings now that I have some bench space to actually put a machine together again. It may take me a couple weeks as I have to wind an entire NEW set of coils as I melted the last set, but as I assemble this thing I am going to put together a set of instructional videos.

I have been talking with Bob French and we are considering putting together a small three coil prototype unit that we will use to demonstrate how all these principles work and that they DO work, and then find someone with a 3D printer who can make a “kit” for those who are interested. We have NO interest in getting into marketing anything to anybody. No TIME. But when we prove it all works, maybe someone will step up. We figure we may be able to produce power AND heat water with a properly built machine.

Sorry for your loss


As for the coil cooling Sounds good, I hope you're able to make a few bucks in the process.

[Turion]

Answer

I tried several things attached to the core to try and absorb the heat. I tried this without lengthening the coil core and it seemed to work, but leaked like crazy. I do NOT know for sure how the longer core will affect coil output or the heat issue, but the water, and the fact that the bottle of water is also surrounded by air seemed to negate the heat issue completely. A death in the family has kept me out of town for the last week, but while I was gone my mom totally organized my shop, so when I get home I will be able to get back to work on this at least a little in the evenings now that I have some bench space to actually put a machine together again. It may take me a couple weeks as I have to wind an entire NEW set of coils as I melted the last set, but as I assemble this thing I am going to put together a set of instructional videos.

I have been talking with Bob French and we are considering putting together a small three coil prototype unit that we will use to demonstrate how all these principles work and that they DO work, and then find someone with a 3D printer who can make a “kit” for those who are interested. We have NO interest in getting into marketing anything to anybody. No TIME. But when we prove it all works, maybe someone will step up. We figure we may be able to produce power AND heat water with a properly built machine.

Interesting idea Dave, have you been experimenting with the idea? I may have to give it a try to see how long it takes to heat the water up.

[Sawt2]

If there is anyone out there actually building the generator I have discussed here, I have some additional info that will eliminate the overheating of the coil cores that I have discussed here. Lengthen the cores beyond the coil by 1” and submerse the end of the coil in water. This can be done by cutting a hole in the lid of any small plastic container with a screw on lid and using a hot glue gun to secure the core in the hole created in the lid. Fill the container with water and screw it onto the lid. Problem solved.

Interesting idea Dave, have you been experimenting with the idea? I may have to give it a try to see how long it takes to heat the water up.

[Turion]

Updates

If there is anyone out there actually building the generator I have discussed here, I have some additional info that will eliminate the overheating of the coil cores that I have discussed here. Lengthen the cores beyond the coil by 1” and submerse the end of the coil in water. This can be done by cutting a hole in the lid of any small plastic container with a screw on lid and using a hot glue gun to secure the core in the hole created in the lid. Fill the container with water and screw it onto the lid. Problem solved.

[kenssurplus]

If anyone is interested to see how I did mechanical switching (true I built it for 3 phase coil shorting, but there were other iterations for cap dump and cap / battery removal and reinstertion ), I have a comprehensive bench detailing the parts and procedure here:
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[mobigozer]

Thanks for Bob French's video Dave, very nice video. I will try doing this with a 12v doorbell I have in my workshop.

[Cadman]

Soft Iron & Ferrite powders

Matt sent me some for testing that he has a source for.

I found some on Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Iron-Ox...ateway&sr=8-10

I haven't tested EITHER one yet.

Finally found a good source that sells high quality, high purity iron in small quantities at a reasonable price and thought I would pass it on here in case anyone is interested.

Chemical Store Inc.

Iron Powder -- 5 Lbs, -- $29.00
Soft Magnetic Iron Powder -- 5 Lbs. -- $45.00

http://shop.chemicalstore.com/
Iron Powder is under “I”
Soft Magnetic Iron Powder is under “S”

IRON100 Iron Powder
High purity, hydrogen reduced, highly reactive, high surface area, fine iron powder for chemical reactions, magnetism experiments and making magnetic paints. All particles are 150 micron or smaller.
Apparent Density 2.52 g/cm3
Flow rate 29.00 sec/50g

Chemical Analysis (wt %)
C 0.030
O 0.20
S 0.006
P 0.025
Mn 0.008
Cr 0.05
Ni 0.05
Si 0.03
Cu 0.02
Mo 0.003
Fe 99.5+

SM1001 Soft Iron Powder
Ultra pure soft-magnetic iron powder used to manufacture electromagnet cores, transformer cores and other soft magnetic P/M parts that require high magnetic permeability, high induced magnetization and low coercive force. Apparent density is about 2.92, purity is more than 99%, U.S. Mesh size = about 100.

Typical Chemical Analysis:
Fe 99.4
Mn 0.04
S 0.009
O 0.06
C 0.00

Manufactured by Iron Powders of North America. Iron-Powder.com

[Turion]

Switching

One of the BEST mechanical switches I have ever made was as a result of my work with Matt on his "Simple Motor". He used a set of automobile points opened by a cam on the end of the shaft. I found that this took too much work, so when Bob French and I began to do a replication of the simple motor a year or so ago we removed the spring from the points, and used a magnet on the rotor to repulse a magnet glued to the points, closing them to make contact. The virtual south on the rotor between the timing magnets will immediately open them back up. Almost any set of auto points can be used to do this and very, very small neo magnets. Auto points are set up to accept that spark without wearing out quickly, and there is a beautiful blue spark when you have the machine running correctly.

Bob French actually has a video of the switch working, but it is his video, so I hesitate to post links to someone else's stuff.

[Cadman]

Thanks for the link.

So far, the companies that manufacture soft ferrites seem unwilling to sell to individuals in small quantities.

I had looked at this Fe304 earlier and discarded it as a candidate because it’s magnetite.

Maybe it deserves a closer look. Perhaps when it’s mixed with a resin and cast, the particles will be electrically insulated and behave like a soft ferrite?

It’s worth a try, the cost is certainly low enough.

Thanks again