Originally posted by Turion
View Post
I have a 12" x 12" x 1/4" aluminum plate sitting in a water bath of about 4" deep. This is in an 11-gallon plastic tote. My motor is one used in robotics and is labelled CIM. Its a brushed dc motor.
I began running my system late last evening. The outside temperature was 21 degrees. I don't know what the temperature was in the lab (spelled: g-a-r-a-g-e ...) The aluminum plate is tethered to the negative terminal of battery 3 via an alligator clip lead.
I had no load on the motor at all. Once running, the system settled into a solid run-state with both primaries sitting at 11.3 volts. They haven't been charged since last March 2013. The system ran and ran and the third battery would not drop once it went down to 14 volts... The motor was running like a scalded cat... But everything became steady-state. My third battery would not go negative so I loaded it down with 2 car headlamps, a tail light and a dome light. I did NOT put a load on the motor to balance the system and bring the voltage back up but for some reason my primaries held steady at 11.3 volts over a couple of hours. Then finally battery 3 went down to 1.5volts.
Being that it was around 3am, I decided to shut the system down and I went ahead and charged my primaries... When I shut the system off, battery 3 shot up to 14 volts in a minute or two... The primaries bounced back to 11.5 volts
I have some thoughts about this system in its current configuration. I made some notes last evening, and I'll share them here for what they're worth. They are not confirmed as yet, but there are some on this thread who will recognize what I'm saying...
The more I think about it, and we all know it but I think we tend to overlook it, (or at least I do) is that when the battery goes negative, it's because negative flux from the ambient is flowing into the battery. For the life of me I could not seem to get my battery to drop in voltage below 1.2 volts... See, draining it can only take it to ZERO and THAT'S ALL. When it goes beyond that, into the negative range, it CANNOT be that more energy is coming out of the battery, BECAUSE ITS AT ZERO! see this?
So, when it starts rising in the negative, its because negative energy is beginning to flow INTO THE BATTERY - and it is assisted asymmetrically through the use of the aluminum plate IN WATER. By adding this plate submerged in water and tying it to the negative terminal (negative = CONVERGENT) we are greatly expanding the negative half of the battery dipole and magnetic field. This forms an asymmetrical magnetic field balanced in favor of the negative side.
Now think this through with me. When do you see the most lightning activity? Isn't is during a thunderstorm? What is present in the thunderstorm - its copious amounts of WATER... Its so ridiculously simple - we are way over-thinking this... Remember Wally's video 2 where he shows the battery having a greater negative charge than a positive one? Where was the extra flux coming from? It was coming from the coil! The switch was placed (automotive points with magnets) between the positive and the coil so the coil discharge was into the negative side of the battery - fortifying the negative flux field. This same thing is being done with the plate submerged in water. The metal plate is magnetically coupling with the magnetic flux field of the water and the clip lead allows a direct path to the negative terminal of the battery.
Once we get the magnetic field of the battery switched around, it leads with the negative side - the CONVERGENT side - opening the gate so that now the flux we are using is coming from the ambient THROUGH THE BATTERY - not from the battery itself...
That we need only one battery becomes obvious at this point... My expectation would be that once negative, it will power a load indefinitely and that as more load is applied - the incoming flux should increase and the battery should get colder - but that's yet to be played out in further tests... However, this is what happens in a properly tuned 3BGS...
If you consider the asymmetrical charge created in the third battery, then it becomes obvious why we were told to connect an aluminum plate to the negative side and place that aluminum plate in water. Water is teeming with magnetic flux and as such becomes like the motor being spun in reverse of what the battery would want to drive it... Both functions are two ways of obtaining the same result - opening the doorway to the ambient as the battery draws in energy from any place its available in an attempt to "right" itself... We stick our foot in the door with a load and keep that door from closing and we'll have it...
So now I'll also play with trying to force it negative with my 2.5hp dc motors... Hopefully I'll be able to catch it just right... When I ran these motors against a 5ah battery, I was able to drive it negative easily and this was without having to drain it to zero... but I was unable to keep it negative long enough to get a load on it... We don't really need to drain it to zero - we can push the magnetic field out of alignment with larger negative flux fields... Look at David's post - he says his battery was sitting at 11.something positive then quickly became 11.something NEGATIVE...
This is no different than slowly pushing opposing magnets together in slow, small and deliberate circles as you slowly work the opposing fields together... If you push them together hard, they will fight back... Do it slowly, and they move out of the way for you and will come together as one magnet... Try it - its a very easy experiment to do...
Best regards to all,
Luther
BTW, the AC in the system is coming out of the motor. The AC battery configuration of Randy's proved that...
Leave a comment: