3 Battery Generating System

[Duncan]

Yes It was puzzling then and its still a bit of an enigma now,I have been beavering away on the Don Smith thread as you Know David and Whilst Don Smith devices would seem to have absolutely nothing to do with your three battery system I start to see many parallels, I suppose that’s hardly surprising as your circuit had its seed in the “Tesla’s four-battery switch” and Don Smith... In Tesla’s magnifying transmitter. I find it absolute astounding that there is free energy to be had but there is! I’ve seen it and so have you! The chances of there being being several sources is negligible therefore I surmise the systems are tapping the same source using different methods. As you are probably aware multiple examples of the Smith/Tariel/Tesla devices have been built and shown to have sizeable power gain including my own, we are however producing cold electricity,radiant power,reactive power (a rose by any other name) and one of the conversion methods as we all know is batteries .. hence my interest in your thread. A little more thought draws some more similarities between the two devices a/ spark gap (in your case at the brushes) HV diodes (In your case commutation) a tuned inductance (In your case motor windings) capacitance such as to bring linear wave resonance about (In your case fulfilled by batteries and the variable speed of the motor) which of course will alter the wave length, perhaps I'm way off the line David but I reckon its worth consideration we have in common the “dude battery” enigma and I have been experimenting with contaminating the electrolyte, which It sounds like your about to start doing my greatest success in that regard so far has been with mixing the electrolyte with about 30% swimming pool cleaner, but I don’t really know why so its all in the “lap of the gods” really. I would also be Inclined to try very slight variations on the battery cable length as a very basic understanding of linear wave resonance is what has caused an explosion of these Tesla machines that work, here is a very young E.P.D explaining all about the linear wave
Part 1 of 6: Eric Dollard Tesla Longitudinal wave Energy SBARC Ham Radio with Chris Carson - YouTube (that’s the first of six) Keep in mind David that officially the linear wave does not exist in any shape manner or form. Anyone teaching it is in for a long spell of unemployment, (Blacklisted) everywhere it appears its disguised and given different units. Do notice that the linear wave moves much faster than the speed of light at 291000 miles/sec.
To put this in very simple terms given the right conditions you can extract power from your battery before the battery can react and then repeat the operation, the spark (infinite frequencies) provide the charge all in a DC pulsing envelope (the commutation) judging by our experience with spark gaps the pressure of the motor brushes could have a massive effect.. I hope what I write here gives food for thought and not confusion, after all you guys are “building and doing” free energy is really a big Dam that’s about to break and anywhere I feel I can apply just a little bit more pressure... I will
I am in no way preaching just stoking the fire! Best wishes Duncan

[Turion]

Duncan,
I am so glad you brought the issue up of the lengths of the battery cables, because one of the things I probably forgot to mention on this forum is that on my original device I used battery cables to connect the batteries in series, not small wires, and I believe it made a difference, because when I traded them out, the effects weren't as good. So the only place I had smaller wires was to the connections on the motor and from battery 3 to the loads. And in my replications I have used the largest wire I could find at Lowes to connect my batteries, which is AWG6. I don't think we can discount any of the variables when we are trying to build these things.

As for the reactive power, yes I believe this system produces reactive power, but I also believe it either produces generative power, or the reactive power is converted somehow within the system. The speeding up of the motor when you have the loads balanced seems to be the result of reactive power, but the torque it produces in the motor is way more than the torque I have ever been able to get on a reactive motor. What I should probably do is measure the rpms of the motor before and after that speed up and see how many volts it takes to induce that higher rpm without the balanced load. It would give me some idea of what I am getting 'for free' by balancing the load, not to mention that there is little or no drain on the primaries when the loads are in balance. So very many things to learn!

I wish we had more people here experimenting with the same basic system. ...one of the 12-volt CIM motor like those used in robotics, model FP801-005, two 18 amp hour lead/acid batteries connected together by AWG 6 wire, and whatever amp hour dead third battery they can find. Using a second CIM motor as a generator and loading it down with a specific number of light bulbs to power. Until we have something like that going, we are all over the map with test setups. Fortunately, this system SEEMS to give us lots of leeway and still have the ability to be successful.

Dave

[Turion]

I don't think people jumping on this thread are going to believe it's for real. It just sounds too simple. I think the only way to get people to start taking notice is to put a known load on the motor and a balance on battery three so that it's easy to show how many amp hours of energy or kilowatt hours of energy are being used, and then start doing extended runs and posting the data. The more of us that can list those kind of statistics here, the more people will come to understand that this is for real and anyone can do it with a little hard work and some TIME spent tuning the loads to each other.

Dave

[FRC]

Cables

Now that you mention it Dave, I have also noticed that the results are better
when using heavier cables. I started using booster/jumper cables in my last few runs.

George

[Turion]

Sorry about that George. I wish I could go back and edit my initial post and put in all the stuff I have remembered over the last few weeks as we have been going through this. It certainly would have helped people to be more successful.

And it has taught me to take much better notes as I work on things. That's for sure!

Dave

[Sanskara316]

I've run my setup again last night, I replaced the not so bad battery with a new very bad battery. I'm only using 3, 6volt batteries. The bad battery holds .5 volts on the meter. When I switch the set up the motor won't run without connecting a load on the bat3. I've connected a 6volt bulb on it and it lit so bright. then suddenly it went light went dim and the motor was spinning so fast. I'm using a 12 volt fan, it keeps a certain cycle, bright lights low spin, then low light fast spin on the motor. I'm having trouble staying in the zone. but good news is bat1 and bat2 lost only .02 volts. after 30 min. the bat1 and bat2 recovered after an hour or so.

[Turion]

Sanskara316,

DId you let the batteries with the motor connected sit for 15 minutes before adding the load? If you do this, and it still won't start, you probably don't have a battery that will work without losing some of the voltage from batteries one and two. The way to tell for sure is this....spin the motor by hand without the load connected. If it continues to spin on its own, no matter how slowly, then there is a circuit through your bad battery and it will probably work. If Neither of those things work, when you connect the load to the two poles of the bad battery, you are simply bypassing the bad battery and that's not what we want. For sure that will pull voltage out of one and two although over time, and they will recover, but you really don't quite have a COMPLETE working system yet, and I would rather figure out how to get you one.

Dave

[Sanskara316]

@Turion
I didn't tried to spin the motor manually though, or maybe the battery is just so dead, if it doesn't work i'll try to replace it with not so bad battery. and see if it'll work. tnx a lot

[Turion]

You could hook another bad battery to it in series, not for long, just for a minute, and that would tell you if there is a circuit through that battery without the load in place. If it has a circuit through it, I would continue to use it. If not, you need another battery, but you might put that one in parallel with a new one and see if you can recover that battery.
Dave

[provelless]

This seemed simple enough to try so I gave it a shot, not a electronics guy at all. Here's what I started out with.


DC fan,remember when you rode a school bus and the bus driver had a small fan pointed at him, thats it.
Bat 1 12.74
Bat 2 12.83 (just pulled it off trickle charger)
Bad battery 9.92 never would charge up and would instantly drop to 10 volts when removed from charger. By the way this battery has been sitting on a concrete floor for two years.

I let my fan run for around 20 minutes, during test:
Bat 1 12.56
Bat 2 12.56
Bad 15.26

After I shut fan off I checked good batteries, still at 12.56 but bad battery was at 12.41 and dropping very slowly. This morning about 14 hours later good batteries had fully recovered and bad battery had dropped to12.21.

So i've ran this fan for 20 minutes, probably more, gained voltage in bad bat and lost nothing, thats amazing.

PS on bat 2 that had just came off trickle charger I assumed it would have dropped some, so when I say it fully recovered it didn't get to 12.83 but to 12.64 so there is some room for error. My neighbor brought me another bad battery I will try it next.

[Turion]

provelless.
You will always lose just a little voltage out of batteries one and two when you run the system until you have a load on the motor and have balanced that with a load connected directly to the terminals of battery 3. Once you do THAT the real magic begins. Until then, it is just an interesting toy. Batts one and two should recover if you give them enough time, but for a real system, you can't have it turned off five times as long as you have it turned on. It's no good to anybody.

But you have seen the basics, which is good. Now take the next step, get a load on your motor, and balance it with a load on battery three. The blade on the fan MAY be enough load, but you still need to load battery three to balance it. To do that, add a small load to battery 3, like an auto tail light bulb. The motor will speed up. Wait five minutes to see if it speeds up a second time. If it does, you are balanced. If not, add another small load and repeat the process until you get that second speed up after adding one load. Once you have it in balance, run it for a really long run, say several hours, and see what you get. If it didn't take you TOO long to balance the load, I think you will be very happy with the results.

Then imagine using a much bigger motor, getting the work that motor does for free, the loads on battery three you needed to balance it for free, and you are still helping battery three to improve as a battery (too bad, because you don't want it to!!) The final goal would be to have an inverter hooked to battery three to run loads, and a generator hooked to the motor to power up a small home. Can that be done? I don't know. We haven't pushed it that far. We're still working with the small 12 volt motors. But the process SHOULD be the same. The bigger the motor, the bigger the load you need to put on it and the bigger the load on battery three to balance it out.

Dave

[tester16]

configuration change?

Hi all, I just rebuilt the unit and was curious to see if anyone else has tried the following.
I have noticed people also splitting the negative on the unit. I have not like the idea of connecting loads directly to the charge battery because, when I dont pay attention to the unit, the load would sometimes kill the charge on the charging battery. Has anyone hooked up a capacitor between the two negative terminals?
I have and the motor would try to spin then stop, as there is not potential difference. So, I hooked up a imhotep fan charger, with another charge battery, attached to the capacitor. The motor then runs fine.
I am running this setup with currently 3 12v batteries hooked in parallel with the bad battery. Charge seems to go up quick so far with the unit. The capacitor is rated 250 volts. While no load hooked up, it is charged to 40-41 volts, whereas my souce is at 34 volts. While running, with a load, the capacitor is at 15 volts. I did experience the speedup with the motor once it was in the zone. The motor i am using is a small 12-24v brushed motor.
I dont have enough meters with me to monitor the current and voltage through the batteries at the same time. Thank you.

[Matthew Jones]

The capacitor will just use energy. What happens is the negative plates get a charge and the positive plates induce a positive charge. Then that gets sent the charge battery on the ground pole and causes a loss.

Its perfectly safe to hook your load right up to the poles of the battery. I have been doing it for 6 years now with Tesla Switch and no problems at all.

Matt

[Turion]

tester16,
By using 3 batteries in series, you will always have a potential difference. I have run as many as six. With long runs, what is happening to batteries one through three? Are their voltages holding up, or dropping? If they drop, are they able to recover after resting? What load are you putting on the motor? What load are you putting on your primaries? How long is it taking you to balance your loads and have it kick into the zone?

Good to see you Matt! I feel better when I know you and Carroll are working on this thing.

Dave

[Neight]

ran me an experiment today, made a video too
gonna let it speak for itself.
here is the link -
3 bat gen sys + home made bat 3 - YouTube

Still testing, and need to check recovery after a long run, but if the primary batteries recover, this may be worth looking into.
My 12VDC motor is burning out, due to me overloading the drive shaft, and making it too hot. Need to get another, or a couple of them, or even a bigger one somewhere, but once I get a good motor again, I am getting back to testing with this setup!
enjoy the show

N8

On a side note,(and a big part of the reason I was overloading the motor shaft...) I did hook up an ignition coil as a load on battery 3, and was able to get some light out of a 4W fluorescent tube on the secondary. it wasn't full bright, but it wasn't too bad either. I am quite sure with a better motor and a consistent load on said motor, this system will easily power useful LED bulbs or even some fluorescents!
I will update once I am back in business, might be later this week, so I can find a new motor to run this on