3 Battery Generating System

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Home made AGM's for more control

Hello, I made pure lead plates yesterday from a junk deep cycle battery. I have a question for all: What makes the difference in performance of the 3BGS/5BGS in term of type of battery used ? The SEPARATORS. The AGM use a separator made of fiberglass tissue. It contains boron, silica, potassium permanganate and other compounds. You can either buy fiberglass or mat glass separator for very cheap on the internet. I will do that. You need to add the diluted sulfuric acid too for the normal chemical transformation to take place inside the cells. I will then form the plates with a regular charger and then let it sulfate over time. I will try to test the system will low voltage (a 1,5v dc motor and single 2v cell). You can create high voltage spike with very low voltage but you need more motor speed (higher frequency). I know that silicon and other oxides or sulfates can create semi-conductor properties. A one way energy valve. Some things to think about guys.

[OrionLightShip]

Do me a favor and measure the gap between the plates on that FLA battery. Exact measurement with calipers would be the best if you or a friend have a set. If not, just get as accurate as you can.

Hello, I made pure lead plates yesterday from a junk deep cycle battery. I have a question for all: What makes the difference in performance of the 3BGS/5BGS in term of type of battery used ? The SEPARATORS. The AGM use a separator made of fiberglass tissue. It contains boron, silica, potassium permanganate and other compounds. You can either buy fiberglass or mat glass separator for very cheap on the internet. I will do that. You need to add the diluted sulfuric acid too for the normal chemical transformation to take place inside the cells. I will then form the plates with a regular charger and then let it sulfate over time. I will try to test the system will low voltage (a 1,5v dc motor and single 2v cell). You can create high voltage spike with very low voltage but you need more motor speed (higher frequency). I know that silicon and other oxides or sulfates can create semi-conductor properties. A one way energy valve. Some things to think about guys.

[Turion]

Just picked up SIX dead AGM's at my local Batteries Plus store. He had 10 more but I didn't have the money. $10.00 each, but worth it

Also got my Arduino in the mail. AND got 2 new 12 amp hour AgM's and two me 3.5 amp hour. So I have enough bad batteries and motors to put together about six setups now after I get primaries all conditioned and transducers flipped. Fun times!!

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Do me a favor and measure the gap between the plates on that FLA battery. Exact measurement with calipers would be the best if you or a friend have a set. If not, just get as accurate as you can.

But can I know why those mesurements? Cause I have some FLA's and they have plastic insulators between the plates. Not good at all for this setup. I know that we need as small gap as possible for this to work the best but it's not limited to that. It's the type of insulating material and the chemicals involved between the plates that's the most critical factor IMHO. I don't want FLA's. For that reason I will spend my free time on AGM's now.

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Just picked up SIX dead AGM's at my local Batteries Plus store. He had 10 more but I didn't have the money. $10.00 each, but worth it

Also got my Arduino in the mail. AND got 2 new 12 amp hour AgM's and two me 3.5 amp hour. So I have enough bad batteries and motors to put together about six setups now after I get primaries all conditioned and transducers flipped. Fun times!!

Yeah Dave! You're a lucky dude. I don't have this luck to find bad batt's easily at this present time. Sad.

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Temperature reading on the transducers

It would be a conclusive test to do when starting a cycle with the 3BGS/5BGS. Taking a reading on all the batteries to see if there is an temperature anomaly that taking place in there. This would be an eye opener to some skeptics people out there.

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

REAC batteries wirering

Hello everyone,

I've been a member of this forum for a couple of years now. Yes, I'm more like a silent reader, trying to learn anything required to build some kind of power generating device by myself. I'm just a hobbyist, but i had to study all the electronics theory (of course the official kind of theory taught in school) about 20 years ago. I could never really get it, and I always had the feeling something was wrong with it because it seemed so complicated. I just hated it and tried to stay away from electronics. Until i picked up the idea of "free energy" which made me start playing with electronics, always trying to stay an open and unbiased observer, following various topics which i got interested in.

I have replicated a couple of things, like Joule Thieves, Bedini Motors (including the Ossie Callanan type using a reed switch), Slayer Exciters (can't run my best 12V setup in the house cause it's a WLAN killer ), as well as some experiments concerning Ed Gray and Don Smith.

I have also (kind of) replicated the three battery version of the 3BGS setup, my "bad battery" btw was a 12 Volt 3.2 Amp hour "valve regulated" AGM battery ("ConradEnergy CP1232") which had become rather useless but distinctly changed its behavior after being part of the setup for a while (resting voltage had been down to 11.5V or so, but rapidly went down when loaded even with a small load). The primary batteries were a STR Exide S3 12V 55Ah sealed lead acid battery, that was sitting around 12.70V and a Varta Asia Dynamic D47 12V 60Ah sealed lead acid battery, around 10.50V (i believe two of its cells must be shorted, since i can't get it to a much higher resting voltage, but seems ok otherwise). So i had something above 23V on the primaries. The little motor i was using is a "LRP Blast S10" RC motor which didn't turn at first and started running after a while. I was kinda surprised and excited so i forgot to wait and see if the motor speeds up again. When i connected the (heavy) load (a 12V 55W car headlight bulb), the motor almost jumped off the battery it was resting on. The bulb seemed to be at full brightness, the little motor spinning violently. I had nothing to load the motor, so i used a small piece of wood to manually brake the motor down until smoke appeared. I would let go and run the motor freely for a while, and then used the piece of wood to brake it down again. (I think the bulb was even brighter whenever i did this, but i can't remember exactly) I repeated braking a few times, and stopped the experiment for other reasons. But since then, the little AGM battery has come to life again. The primaries lost a bit during running, but recovered almost to where they were.
So my personal experience with the 3BGS so far is that even if there are some low losses in the primaries, i had a little motor running with high speed and high torque and a brightly shining bulb (and a lot of noise ) on the other hand. Not to mention i had lost my "bad battery", which is the reason i never could really repeat the experiment.

The "5BGS" requires even more batteries, some of which even have to have their polarities changed in order to be run as so-called "transducer batteries".
So no 5BGS for me so far.

I'm just a silent reader/replicator. Not a rather good one. But I'm very much interested, personally, for the sake of knowledge, and for the sake of fun, (and ultimately for the sake of energy independence for all) but not for financial interests. It's just that i have not much to contribute, so i have remained silent. Until now. Just to remember some of you guys that there are guys like me. Interested followers. Who remain silent, until perhaps one day they have something to contribute.

BTW, which remembers me of the Ossie Callanan document "A Working Radiant Free Energy System". Have a look at the very last image in the doc, where Ossie shows his REAC. Unlike in the table shown above, the REAC batteries are not all connected + to -, i can see seven batteries in series, and the second and the sixth are connected in reverse!
[+-][-+][+-][+-][+-][-+][+-]

This immediately reminded me of the transducer batteries, with their puzzling polarity hookup. Just thought this might be of interest.

Keep up this great thread! Thanks to everyone!
Greetings from Austria!
KeX

If you carefully look at the picture of the REAC at the boddom of that PDF file, you can clearly find that in the back, those 2's are flooded lead acid batteries with a polarity + on the left side and - on the right side. In front, those are all AGM's with reversed polarities. - on the left and + on the right. They are all connected in series Kexos. Not the same as the transducers hooked up.

[kexos]

analyzing the REAC picture

If you carefully look at the picture of the REAC at the boddom of that PDF file, you can clearly find that in the back, those 2's are flooded lead acid batteries with a polarity + on the left side and - on the right side. In front, those are all AGM's with reversed polarities. - on the left and + on the right. They are all connected in series Kexos. Not the same as the transducers hooked up.

Hello everyone,

@CrystalDipoleMatrix: Thanks for having a closer look. Exactly right, those two lead acid batteries in the back got my attention. Let's discuss that for a moment.

Two things i've noticed.
(1.) if all batteries were connected in series + to - (as usual), then the two batteries in the back have opposite polarity (+ on the left post, - on the right) than all the others. In my personal experience i have never seen such a lead acid battery, but that doesn't mean anything.
(2.) The batteries in the back seem to have their right posts marked red as well, just like all the others, which usually means + (examine esp. the battery on the right handside in the back).

Sure, the image is a bit blurry, and i could be wrong. The red spots might be some sort of corrosion (But i don't think so). If the two batteries' polarities has been *internally* toggled, i'm wrong too, even if (1.) and (2.) is true.

So it's not clear to me that the two batteries in the back have their + poles on the left hand side AT ALL. Please explain!
What makes you think that those two batteries in the back have a different polarity orientation than all the others? Except for the schematic suggesting they all shold be hooked up + to -?

Thank you!
Best wishes,
KeX

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

@KeX: Flooded lead acid batteries have their posts (faced southward) placed in the opposite direction then the sealed lead acid ones. It's just the way it is.

Have a good day, jean.

[citfta]

Not quit true

I haven't looked at the picture you guys are discussing but I have several U1 size small lawn and garden tractor batteries. Some of them have the posts the same as sealed batteries and some of them don't. These are all flooded lead acid batteries. So just because one is sealed or flooded does not mean the posts have to be a certain way. I have accidentally hooked one of them up backwards because I forgot to check the markings by the posts.

Respectfully, Carroll

[kexos]

REAC issue still not clear

Hello everyone,

@CrystalDipoleMatrix: Dear Jean, since my knowledge concerning all the different types of lead acid batteries is rather limited, you may know more about them than i do so you could be right. Still seems strange to me though. There are still the colored spots, telling another story. Don't want to deny i could be wrong. But it's still not THAT clear to me. Well. Life is full of mysteries and miracles.

I just wanted to point out i've noticed something unusual on that special picture which didn't seem to fit. At least now i know there are batteries that have their + pole on the left hand side.

Thanks for your help in making this point clear!
Best wishes,
KeX

[Matthew Jones]

Generally if a battery (Mostly car batteries) has number like M-2145, that would by default be a right hand positive post. But the same battery may be made opposite its number would be M-2145L. That would be a Left hand same rating as above.

All vehicle batteries generally follow that rule.

Anybody testing, ready post some results?

Matt

[Turion]

Yesterday I did a 10 hour run with 18 amp hour AGM's. I ran a stock Razor scooter motor hooked to my generator as a load. From the generator I connected the output through a full wave bridge to my light board. On the light board I had a single 25 watt bulb turned on. On the inverter side I plugged my AC light panel into the inverter. I ran one 7.5 watt bulb and one 11 watt bulb. The AC bulbs I get tend to be weird Wattages because I try to find really low watt AC bulbs to screw into a standard socket, and that's what is available at Lowes.

I let the buffer battery climb to 14.2 volts before attaching the AC loads and 18.5 watts balanced the load on the DC side. My buffer wanted to climb, so once in a while I would flip on a 3 watt AC bulb for a few minutes just to bring it back down. At the end of the run my primaries had gone up just slightly. One .02 and the other .03.

Since my generator really doesn't pull any more load once it is up to speed, I am adding the rest of the 12 coils to it to see what it will put out. I am feeling like the system is pretty dang stable. It still takes watching to keep things from climbing, but a few "if, then" statements on a microprocessor would take care of that. Use sensors to measure the voltages on the different batteries and turn on transistors that switch on loads.

I woud LOVE to step this thing up to run some really big loads on the AC side, but give me a 12 volt DC motor that runs my generator for fee like I have RIGHT NOW, and I am a very happy camper.

Dave

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Hi Dave, would be nice to make some videos of your setup and a before/after primaries voltage. I'm sure many folks would appreciate that. Thanks, jean.

[OrionLightShip]

I woud LOVE to step this thing up to run some really big loads on the AC side, but give me a 12 volt DC motor that runs my generator for fee like I have RIGHT NOW, and I am a very happy camper.

Dave

Doesn't get any better than that! Wait, actually it does. You're producing light, heat, and electricity.