3 Battery Generating System

[Mario]

Skeptic,

of course once everything is solved everyone will want to jump on board, that's easy...

How about contributing by doing some of the the dirty work to get there, instead of talking and asking others to do it for you?

Mario

[Turion]

Skeptic,
Thats a great idea for a test. If I had the money for the container to hold the water, (probably a five gallon bucket would work, and I have one) the pump to pump the water, the meter to measure water flow in gallons per minute, and the means of connecting the pump to the motor. I'm doing a bit of research right now to see how much that will cost. I will see if I can budget for it.

I'm trying to build a house, restore a 1972 FJ55 "Iron Pig" Landcruiser, Keep up with the repairs on my existing house, and I have no income other than what my wife makes, or I win at the casino, so things get tight from time to time. Right now happens to be one of those times. (Even though I won $600 last weekend!) When I have some idea of what that cost would be, I will report back here and we can go from there.

[Skeptic]

Turion,

Thank you for considering a possible test. An inexpensive example of a meter to measure the water is on Amazon under "AbsolutelyNew Water Saver Usage Meter". or "P3 P0550 Water Meter". Be sure to check PSI requirements.

[IndianaBoys]

Skeptic,

Good find.

Home Depot has them as well:
Water Saver Usage Meter with Digital LCD Display-AN951 at The Home Depot

PRODUCT OVERVIEW

The Water Saver Usage Meter connects easily between a garden hose and a spray-nozzle, so you can measure how much water you're using during lawn & garden care, car washes, and more. It features a large, impact-resistant LCD screen that clearly shows the usage volume in gallons or liters. It also features a Reset button to clear the cumulative total, as well as to switch between gallons and liters before each use. A 10-second auto-shutoff helps save battery power. Its durable ABS housing helps resist the elements. Water Saver fits standard outdoor hoses, spray-nozzles, even faucets.

Connectors: 3/4 in. male connector and 3/4 in. free-spinning female connector
LCD Screen: shows gallons or liters to 1/10 (0.0 to 999.9)
Minimum flow rate: 0.5 gpm
Accuracy: +/- 10 percent for flow rate larger than 0.5 gpm
Maximum water pressure rating: 80 psi (more than accommodates most household water pressure, which is typically 65-80 psi)
Power: Runs on one CR2032 battery (included)
MFG Model # : AN951
MFG Part # : AN951

Turion,

Thank you for considering a possible test. An inexpensive example of a meter to measure the water is on Amazon under "AbsolutelyNew Water Saver Usage Meter". or "P3 P0550 Water Meter". Be sure to check PSI requirements.

[Turion]

That I can afford and will pick one up at either Home Depot or Lowes. Now to find an inexpensive water pump that will run on 12 volts. I know they are out there because I bought one that was fairly cheap a while back to use with my 55 gallon water storage tank that is under my camping sink up at my property. Just need to spend a little time looking.

[Stealth]

Harbor Freight has several 12 volt water pumps at cheap prices. Easily ordered from their website. Good Luck. stealth

[Turion]

Dang! Harbor Freight has one I can afford. I'm about to run out of excuses NOT to get this test done. I'll swing by Harbor Freight first thing in the morning and then over to Home Depot to pick up the meter and stuff I will need to connect the two.

Let's be very, VERY clear about this test before I even set it up. The primaries are GOING to lose some voltage. The motor on this pump is NOT a motor I have worked with before, so keeping it in balance in the system will be a problem from the very beginning. I would need several days if not a couple of weeks to figure out how to keep the setup in balance, and I don't have the time to do that right now. So what I will be showing with this is that you can get way more out of the batteries than their rated hours of performance using the 3BGS system. (Actually the 5BGS) I will put two fully charged batteries, two "no voltage" transducers and one "discharged" buffer battery in parallel and run the pump until it stops. Record the total volume of water pumped. Then I will charge the primaries, discharge the buffer battery to the same voltage it started with OR LOWER, and drain the two transducers to their original voltage OR LOWER, and run the test again. I will record the volume of water pumped and we can compare the two totals to each other. If that is acceptable, then that is what I will do.

Dave

[Mario]

Dave, if you really want to do him this favour.. can't you use one of your tested motors to run a pump so that you don't have to spend all the time to figure out how to balance the system with an unknown new motor pump?

Mario

[Turion]

If I could find a water pump that was just a pump without a motor, I would do exactly that, and figure out some way to connect my motor to that pump, but every pump I have found has a built in motor.

Besides, my setup is balanced NOW because I know the load my motor is running. (My generator) With a pump as load, even if it is the same motor, it will be a different load, and that will make balancing it difficult.

Doesn't matter though. I should STILL be able to show that I can pump a whole lot more water with the motor running n the 3BGS setup.

Dave

[Skeptic]

Thanks to everyone for getting on board with this. If successful, it could likely raise the project's visibility exponentially and could help recruit the talent to put this technology into every house and vehicle.

That would seem to be a worthwhile goal.

[Matthew Jones]

Matt:

Attacking me is just a way to change the subject and I will not respond in kind. It doesn't change the fact that there is no clear proof of concept for 3BGS. If it's real, there must be a way to clearly show it. It is a time proven concept to wait for a clear proof of concept before jumping in with time, effort, and money. It seems rather unfair to call anyone lazy for not getting involved when there is no clear proof of concept. The whole point of the proof of concept is to get seriously minded and qualified talent to get involved. Want more people involved? Produce a clear proof of concept. This is how it's been done for hundreds of years. Why? Because it works. In this case, if successful, it would turn the scientific world on it's ear I would like to see that since I really want you guys to succeed.

I'll even give a relatively inexpensive example of a clear proof of concept. To be fair, the person who knows the most about running the 3BGS should be the one to do the test.

Hook up a water pump and accurate flow meter to all the batteries before running the 3BGS and record how much water is pumped from a small tank (and recycled back into the same tank). Then recharge the batteries and run 3BGS to a point that you believe there is more energy available and run the same test again. If significantly more water is pumped, then you have your proof along with many more people willing to invest time and money in the project, if not, then you do not have any additional energy. This test only measures work actually done regardless of motor speed (within limits). It would be hard to ignore 100 gallons pumped before and 150 after in repeated tests.

It doesn't matter what anyone believes will happen. Results speak for themselves. Look, every new invention has started out with people like yourselves seeing something that has promise. This needs to be converted into something that anyone can clearly see. That's why a proof of concept is so valuable - it simplifies the concept to the point that it doesn't require one to get involved before seeing that there is something there to be investigated. This causes huge interest and attracts talented people to help ensure the success of the invention. Do not underestimate what you had to learn before seeing results. A proof of concept lets anyone see results quickly without going through your learning curve.

This type of discovery with a successful proof of concept would no doubt attract more people then you would believe. Why? Because it would appear to violate the known laws of physics or at the very least demands a new law or principal be discovered.

Such a challenge could not be ignored by the scientific community as it would be of Nobel prize caliber.

Good Luck

And so one does all the tests that the armchair researcher like yourself proposes and it pans out. What then? Video? Public demonstration? Costly scientific analyses?
If your scared and you need proof, other than peoples word, you would not believe those either. You would find a reason to doubt no matter what.
I personally do not think 100 dollars for and experiment is unreasonable. Yours on the other hand costs more.

See no one is attacking you, you did plenty good pointing out that no matter what you will doubt, you will take then road of a skeptic and not try to find something. Just run people ragged with your "Ways to Prove".
I can name 2 dozen people who have been on this forum and sidetracked projects with the same nonsense. Your a dime a dozen.

Ignore me if you want, I could care less but people who read this should realize they are going to have work to find.

Personally I wouldn't waste my time proving to you unless you had actively participated and didn't get results. Maybe someone wants too.

Matt

[Turion]

Flipping Polarity

REMEMBER, BATTERIES CAN EXPLODE!!! IF you do not have the equipment in place to safely conduct these experiments you should NOT DO THEM.

Having said that, let me throw this out to the group as a whole. I have been kinda keeping it under my hat, but I don't have exactly what is necessary to make it work, and some of you might, so the time has come to share. I don't want valuable information to disappear, and this is just too valuable. If you don't get ANYTHING else from all the pages and pages of information on this thread, walk away with THIS piece of information.

Something happens when you flip the polarity on a battery.

And when I say flip the polarity, this is different from reverse charging a battery. By reverse charging I mean hooking the positive of a charger up to the negative pole and the negative of the charger up to the positive pole. You run the charger and eventually the voltage reading on the battery will go down, down, down, and then become a negative number and go up, up, up.

When you flip the polarity on a battery, it becomes negative and will SELF CHARGE. By this I mean once it is flipped, let it sit there and if you have your meter connected in the normal fashion (and NO CHARGER OF ANY KIND) you will get a negative reading that continues to climb. I have seen this happen ONCE. I have been TOLD that you can hook an inverter to the battery (normally...plus to plus and minus to minus) and it will run loads all day long while the battery continues to recharge itself. It has become filled with negative energy. If you have reverse charged the battery and try hooking an inverter positive to positive and negative to negative, well, POP goes the inverter.

I believe it is what happened to the battery on my original 3BGS setup. I think it is STILL happening on our 3BGS setups today. At some point we flip the polarity on the 3rd battery and we get it to start charging itself with this negative energy so we get all kinds of power, BUT we continue to hit it with the 24 volts from the two primaries and eventually it begins to reverse charge and it no longer self charges and the magic goes away.

I believe this MAY be the reason it is so critical that you have loads on battery 3 in the 3BGS setup. It isn't that we are balancing with the load on the motor as I thought. It's because we are using the loads to keep the two primaries from reverse charging the third battery that has flipped polarity.

Now, how to flip the polarity on a battery. This is where we need to do some experimenting because once we know how to do this, it won't be the 3BGS anymore, it will be a single battery to which we connect loads. That battery will be our sail in front of a wind that blows forever.

So here is the method. Hook a battery to a DC generator and run it as a motor to see which way it turns. (A highly efficient motor might work as a generator) When you have established the direction of rotation, hook a second motor to the first. With the first motor running in one direction, apply power to the second motor so as to cause the first motor to stop and reverse direction. Once the battery is showing a negative voltage, disconnect and see if it is self charging. If not, hook it back up following the same procedure and while it is running, short across the battery you are trying to reverse for a split second.

If you are successful, let us know. REMEMBER, BATTERIES CAN EXPLODE!!! IF you do not have the equipment in place to safely conduct these experiments you should NOT DO THEM.

Dave

[Mario]

Hi Dave,

thanks for sharing this, I'm trying to understand what's the difference (from the batterie's point of view) between reverse charging with a charger and the method with the dc generator you described. Both are pumping current backwards into the battery until it crosses the 0 point. One difference could be that the current generated by the generator is somewhat pulsed?

I think T.Bearden describes something similar in EFV about the battery slowly crossing the zero line and getting filled with negative energy. Will try to find it when I get home.

Mario

[Skeptic]

Matt:

If you think that my proposed test is being done for ME, then you have not understood my purpose at all and perhaps you never will. You seem to have some issues that are beyond my ability to resolve for you. I hope you can at least understand that I want this project to be successful, and desire no recognition, control or credit in any way. I have simply made some suggestions that others are free to accept or decline. Please do not try to discourage others for trying out that which you cannot understand.

Further discussions with you would only waste both our time and would not be productive. If you want the last word, please be my guest. I feel no animosity towards you at all and realize you are not a bad guy but are just trying to help in your own way.

Good luck

[Wistiti]

REMEMBER, BATTERIES CAN EXPLODE!!! IF you do not have the equipment in place to safely conduct these experiments you should NOT DO THEM.

Having said that, let me throw this out to the group as a whole. I have been kinda keeping it under my hat, but I don't have exactly what is necessary to make it work, and some of you might, so the time has come to share. I don't want valuable information to disappear, and this is just too valuable. If you don't get ANYTHING else from all the pages and pages of information on this thread, walk away with THIS piece of information.

Something happens when you flip the polarity on a battery.

And when I say flip the polarity, this is different from reverse charging a battery. By reverse charging I mean hooking the positive of a charger up to the negative pole and the negative of the charger up to the positive pole. You run the charger and eventually the voltage reading on the battery will go down, down, down, and then become a negative number and go up, up, up.

When you flip the polarity on a battery, it becomes negative and will SELF CHARGE. By this I mean once it is flipped, let it sit there and if you have your meter connected in the normal fashion (and NO CHARGER OF ANY KIND) you will get a negative reading that continues to climb. I have seen this happen ONCE. I have been TOLD that you can hook an inverter to the battery (normally...plus to plus and minus to minus) and it will run loads all day long while the battery continues to recharge itself. It has become filled with negative energy. If you have reverse charged the battery and try hooking an inverter positive to positive and negative to negative, well, POP goes the inverter.

I believe it is what happened to the battery on my original 3BGS setup. I think it is STILL happening on our 3BGS setups today. At some point we flip the polarity on the 3rd battery and we get it to start charging itself with this negative energy so we get all kinds of power, BUT we continue to hit it with the 24 volts from the two primaries and eventually it begins to reverse charge and it no longer self charges and the magic goes away.

I believe this MAY be the reason it is so critical that you have loads on battery 3 in the 3BGS setup. It isn't that we are balancing with the load on the motor as I thought. It's because we are using the loads to keep the two primaries from reverse charging the third battery that has flipped polarity.

Now, how to flip the polarity on a battery. This is where we need to do some experimenting because once we know how to do this, it won't be the 3BGS anymore, it will be a single battery to which we connect loads. That battery will be our sail in front of a wind that blows forever.

So here is the method. Hook a battery to a DC generator and run it as a motor to see which way it turns. (A highly efficient motor might work as a generator) When you have established the direction of rotation, hook a second motor to the first. With the first motor running in one direction, apply power to the second motor so as to cause the first motor to stop and reverse direction. Once the battery is showing a negative voltage, disconnect and see if it is self charging. If not, hook it back up following the same procedure and while it is running, short across the battery you are trying to reverse for a split second.

If you are successful, let us know. REMEMBER, BATTERIES CAN EXPLODE!!! IF you do not have the equipment in place to safely conduct these experiments you should NOT DO THEM.

Dave

Thank you Dave for sharing!
What if it be reverse with radiant pulse charger...?
I May give it a try....