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  • Originally posted by Duncan View Post
    I'm running on a bit of a tangent as you all know .. still we are trying to boot the ball into the same net, so If I see something or its reported and I think it pertains .. I'll post . Such is the case in this regard . I did not know granite is radioactive .. neither did I Know it is magnetic . All that aside this was posted..

    I know full well there are strange thing happening when an LA battery is being charged !! I got a serious ear bashing from my wife, when after a couple of days charging a battery on one of our Granite work surfaces, upon moving the battery the Granite had taken on the shape of the cell structure within !! And despite a whole day of re polishing there is still the faint outline !!

    The pleasures of OU research !!


    It may not mean much to you .. but it speaks volumes to me . I questioned the man, That occurred with a standard battery charger.


    Hey Duncan, i have done a few experiments with granite dust, ( or metal dust, as we call it ), straight from a quarry.

    The parramagnetic strength vary's from quarry to quarry, i have tested samples from 4 quarries in my area, the difference in gauss, etc, is profound.

    This dust is an incredible long life soil fertiliser.

    My other interest in this dust is for a core material for motor coils and i will be trying some highly parramagnetic dust mixed with high temp epoxy, in my next build, just to see.

    Regards Cornboy.

    Comment


    • Hi Dave
      Funny you mention the motors run faster wired up a certain way..
      When I was a kid, my dad and I (well mostly me) raced r/c cars. The modified motors all had replaceable brushes and a person could adjust the timing. You timed it in relation to the brushes and magnets. If I remember right advanced timing gave you more rpm, but more current draw, I..e heat. Wouldn't last as long. Retard the timing and the motor had more torqe but still draws more current. We had to find the sweet spot between runtime and speed. Of course the drawbacks were heat . Maybe a person could adjust timing of the motor to compensate for load on the 3bgs.
      Jason
      Last edited by cornfused; 01-16-2014, 12:32 AM. Reason: spelling

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Cornboy 555 View Post
        Hey Duncan, i have done a few experiments with granite dust, ( or metal dust, as we call it ), straight from a quarry.

        The parramagnetic strength vary's from quarry to quarry, i have tested samples from 4 quarries in my area, the difference in gauss, etc, is profound.

        This dust is an incredible long life soil fertiliser.

        My other interest in this dust is for a core material for motor coils and i will be trying some highly parramagnetic dust mixed with high temp epoxy, in my next build, just to see.

        Regards Cornboy.
        Its obviously sometime ago that this 'accident' occurred however since I drew the guys attention to it .. he has tested the area with gauss meter and finds the area now more magnetic than the rest significant ? I wouldn't know, neither does he I report because .. It may be, here's his post

        Dear Duncan.
        It always amazes me how a simple statement made by one can inspire another !! My little accident occurred a couple maybe 3 years ago, dementia or just getting older who knows ?? I had learned to cut out the area in question from my sight !!However we both looked yesterday and the distinct lines are now so faded as to not be there anymore, just the very poor attempt at my repolishing remains !! Grin

        I have Granite, not because I can afford it but because a very old friend owns Granite business !! Wink So your test could well be quite simply tried !! Big but !! My work surface is much more strongly magnetic than the other bit's and bob's that I have!!

        Do you think this might have a bearing ??

        Last edited by Duncan; 01-16-2014, 12:34 AM.
        Whatever you can do,or dream you can,begin it.Boldness has genius,power and magic in it.Begin it now.

        Comment


        • Timing

          Originally posted by cornfused View Post
          Hi Dave
          Funny you mention the motors run faster wired up a certain way..
          When I was a kid, my dad and I (well mostly me) raced r/c cars. The modified motors all had replaceable brushes and a person could adjust the timing. You timed it in relation to the brushes and magnets. If I remember right advanced timing gave you more rpm, but more current draw, I..e heat. Wouldn't last as long. Retard the timing and the motor had more torqe but still draws more current. We had to find the sweet spot between runtime and speed. Of course the drawbacks were heat . Maybe a person could adjust timing of the motor to compensate for load on the 3bgs.
          Jason
          In my runs, timing is a significant variable. My results are always better with more advanced timing. Direction the rotor spins has also been a large factor too. And not only due to timing. My motors allow the brush plate to rotate so I can adjust the timing to my liking for either direction. The winding direction on the stator is what determines optimal results after timing is adjusted for that particular direction. I always tune my motor for optimal charging on battery #2. Everything else will be where you want, if you do that and have the right components. I ALWAYS have found the best results when I split the positives with the motor. I have also found a lower rpm works better than higher. Not sure why. I have had motors that run from a few hundred rpm to 7500 rpm. All on the same 2300 rpm rated chassis. Yeah Dave, I had that MY1016 running at 7500 rpm. Scary. Not done with that one yet. I think @erfinder is about to share that coil topology soon in his thread. Guys, I highly recommend you figure a way to move that brush plate in relation to the fixed PMs in your motors.
          My nickels worth.
          Good Luck,
          Randy
          _

          Comment


          • test with aluminum sheet

            Hello to All,

            Found interesting results with aluminum sheet in water.
            1) connected wire to pos of #3 battery from aluminum sheet
            2) placed car window motor across two neg not pos post
            3) no lights on #3 to balance system

            While I waited to see #3 drop in voltage and motor start, the primaries voltage started jumping 22 volts to 19 or 20 then back up to 22 again. I tested #2 primary and found it was the one.

            So I connected 12vdc light (50 watt) to #3 and the motor started with a surge sound each time the voltage jumped in the primaries 1 and 2.

            This happened for five minutes or so and charged the primaries up. But then would start to lose voltage. The #3 would hold around 2.8 volts.

            Each time I turn off the motor, let the primary alum batteries sit, they return to 11 volts or so each. I don't recharge them. Then just connect motor and watch the same thing happen. Without light on #3.

            Just curious to what you all thought. I did make a video and will post to YouTube later.

            wantomake

            Comment


            • draining the battery

              Hi WTM, I can't say , but I have seen a load to drain my dead battery go dead , after 10mins, come back to life, then repeat. I just get tired of waiting for it to finish.
              Strange though you would think with the constant load of the motor , the battery shouldn't be able to recover, in order to run it?
              artv

              Comment


              • can It be known

                Hey shylo,
                I really get excited to see and hear of these strange anomalies in batteries. But what causes this to happen. How do we repeat these pulses of energy. Can It be manufactured and placed in a box so we can be free.

                Can It be known? So good feeling to experience this but frustrating to not be able to give a setup to a family with no job, money or power to heat their home.

                So can It be known, one day one of us will find IT,
                wantomake

                Comment


                • attempt to restore old batteries

                  Hi All,

                  Most my big batteries are in my well pump room, unheated. I wanted to try and use 3bat system to restore some of them. Most the old batteries I have are probably good candidates for a bad battery. But, I am not ready for that right now. I have some solar panels I want to set up next spring. If I can reclaim some of these old batteries, so much the better. This is easier than building a Bedini setup.

                  Anyway, I fired up the wood stove in my studio and drug in some smaller batteries. One good hardly used two year old lawn tractor battery from walmart, one 12 year old SLA battery about the same size. This battery slowly climbed to 10 volts with trickle charge. Highly sulphated. Two other identical batteries only got to 2 to 4 volts. So, I used this one for bat number two.

                  Bat 3 is a really old small battery out of a UPS system for computer. Will not hold any charge to light anything but a flash on a led. This bat is about 4 inches square in size. Has a standing voltage of about 5.

                  To get anything to run I had to put a small two watt dash light bulb across bat 3. I have everything hooked up to split the negatives like in skeptic video 9.
                  I had to spin it to get it started, but there was 20 volts across the bulb. I was afraid it would blow the bulb, so I put a 130 ohm 2 watt resistor to drop the voltage to about 14.

                  After about an hour, I noticed the resistor was really hot to touch, so I paralleled it with another 130 ohm two watt resistor. This gave me 65 ohms and reduced the brightness of the bulb with about 10 volts.

                  After about 3 hours running, I was able to get rid of the resistors and the bulb and run just on a 12volt led array to replace clearance bulbs on cars.
                  I am running a small motor I salvaged out of an old HP printer. Everything running smooth and quiet. Battery voltages about the same, bat one 12.2v, bat two 10.1v and bat 3 10 v.

                  Gee, all this writing just to get to the point of my post. I fired up my old bench meter and checked the battery 3 for frequency. My hand meter was showing AC voltage about double the voltage DC. It is polarity sensitive. Therefore I assume It is pulsating DC from the brushes? This is the reason I decided to check the freq. I am getting about 2.4 kHz across bat 3. For some reason I decided to check the freq of bat 2 thinking it would be the same.

                  But, battery 2 checked out at about 1.1kHz! If I had used a good battery on 2 position, it would have absorbed all the pulsing DC just like bat 1 shows nothing on the freq or AC settings. I was surprised the freq was different.

                  My feeling is the different size batteries with their high impedance are setting up different resonances with the coils in the motor? Freq much too high for it to be just brushes. I would guess brush freq would be in the neighborhood of 200 to 400 Hz?

                  Maybe this is old news for some of you. But, I can't recall much discussion on this thread re the freq of the pulses going to bat 3, and why bat 2 has diff freq?
                  Is it the capacitance of the batteries setting up resonance with the coils as in a parallel circuit?

                  Just putting this out there for what it is worth?

                  Chris

                  Comment


                  • Frequency

                    Chris,
                    Thanks for this input, and you are correct. There has been lots of talk about frequency and resonance, but not any data or any measurement from folks replicating. I will definitely start looking at this, especially when I have the thing working like it is supposed to. Getting the right frequency couldn't hurt!!

                    I haven't been posting here, except to respond to the posts of others, but that doesn't mean I haven't been working on this. Not a day goes by that I am not running some kind of experiment with the 3BGS, and usually more than one setup at a time going.

                    Maybe what you have posted will get some folks thinking and maybe thinking will lead to action, and action to results. Or maybe this thread will just die out. Who knows. But thanks for posting. We need people working on this.

                    So, are you having any luck restoring those bad batteries? LOL

                    Dave
                    “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                    —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                    Comment


                    • Chris,
                      This has been my experience with this setup. It is an RLC circuit with a spark gap. The battery plates do provide capacitance. The motor, is the L and sparking. The 3rd battery, the R. It is important to place the battery you to want repair in the 3rd position and use two good batteries in position 1 and 2. This is your power supply and provides little repair benefit to those positions. Position 1 does provide a little. I refer to position 1 as the power battery closest to the motor.

                      Most meters can't follow the mixtures of current, frequencies, and harmonics that take place in this simple circuit. It is definitely an AC/DC circuit. The interesting harmonics happen between the motor and the third battery, before a certain point of repair.

                      Good Luck,
                      Randy
                      Last edited by tachyoncatcher; 01-30-2014, 02:57 PM.
                      _

                      Comment


                      • @Dave
                        Well I just started started to investigate this restoration project. A small scale with a tiny motor and 2 watt load. Approx 4 hours run time and some improvement with being able to eliminate the bulb and resistor load. So, the resistance of the small bat 3 has gone down. To make use of my solar panels, I will have to move to larger things. Maybe I will try and get something bigger going on in my well house. The weather seems to warming up somewhat where I live.

                        @Randy
                        I see what you are saying. I could tell my bat 2 seemed to be supplying the resistor battery in 3rd position. I will remove bat 2 and put it in the well room. I have an old car battery that holds 12 volts for position 1. The lawn tractor bat will move to position 2 and leave small bat as it is in 3rd position. That way the newest battery next to resistor bat. I want to explore resonance with it in my more comfortable studio with wood heat.

                        In the well room I have two deep cycle marine batteries for position 1 and 2 and the three identical old SLA bats for position 3. Have several old radiator cooling fan motors laying around I can try for the motor. Also have two very old 6 volt golf cart bats. I can hardly move these things around anymore as I am getting old at 77. Really want to finish a lot of projects this year so I can relax.

                        Chris

                        Comment


                        • Dead batteries charging

                          Hi Chris, one of the things I've tried ,is when you finish several runs ,and that dead battery has charged (which were trying to avoid).
                          Hook it to a plug-in wall charger, I've been able to bring dead batteries back to life. It doesn't work with all my dead batteries , but it does work with some. (more capacity than they started with ,but not like new)
                          Also I found that by running the same battery in position 1 ,will damage that battery, You have to rotate.
                          I'm still using this system and will continue.
                          Definitely has some interesting aspects
                          The more things I do, the more questions I get.
                          Try everything you can think of,....the answer's there somewhere.
                          artv

                          Comment


                          • @Artv

                            Thanks for the heads up re bat 1 and restoring dead bats. Yes, for such a simple circuit, sure adds up to a lot of questions.

                            Chris

                            Comment


                            • Which Analogy Do We Choose?

                              Nikola Tesla for all his intuitiveness, sheer genius and observational skills declared he did not know what 'electricity' actually was. He certainly knew what it was not!

                              Ed Leedskalnin said he knew what electricity was and considered IT to be a transference of 'alternating magnetic particles'. The splendid series of videos about Ed Leedskalnin by Imhotep Labs on YT is very informative and clearly put. I thoroughly recommend them!

                              If you add Ed's theory to that of Sir William Crook's passage of infinitesimal 'tubes of force' (most notably revised by William Lyne in his book 'Occult Ether Physics') you get a magnetically focussed helical 'electrical' spiral wave of 'electricity' carrying along the 'aether' within itself. Can anyone say, "Inertia?"

                              Bill Lyne then goes on to present his case regarding 'Nazi Flying Saucers' and that they use a copper plate on all six sides (cubic perspective) which the leading coil producing a pulsed HF HV pulse and its diametrically opposed coil producing an HF AC waveform. The idea being that the etheric tubes of force 'electricity' are dissolved liberating the ether formally within them and eliminating inertia. Unfortunately this idea is very difficult (in its present analogy) to understand. Let me present a different analogy...

                              If we consider the 'electricity' fore and aft to exhibit acoustic properties then we may consider this. If the fore signal is pulsed HV DC (E.g. 144 MHz) and the aft HV AC (E.g. 144 MHz - in both directions) then if both signals are synchronized then a spacial absence (moving vacuum - 2 times force) should be formed fore and the combination of the aft AC and DC signals should create disharmony and cancel each other out (null zone). Since Nature abhors a vacuum and the acoustic properties of this analogy should be nullified then surrounding space should fill this rear vacuum and create thrust. I'm quite sure Bill Lyne will not tell you this during his conference speech, but you can ask him lots of questions.

                              If this analogy is accurate then an aft frequency of pulsed HF HV DC 180º out of phase may also work (Thomas Townsend Brown Thrusters anyone?). You might try that concept within your motors that capture Back EMF too. I hope this has been informative.

                              Comment


                              • adjusting the load

                                Hi All, I was exp. today ,not using the 3Bgs , though ,since I flushed my dead bat(it's special) .
                                Just the 2 primaries , and a standard pm motor, but I added a 3rd brush ,2 comm. positions off the +brush...
                                Use a common ground, but supply , 1 of the primaries , off 1 brush use the other for drive.
                                One causes rotation ,and charges a 2nd battery.
                                How much charge the 2nd battery receives, depends how you load the motor. Also the amount of load keeps changing. Something to do with how batteries discharge , they seem to rush forward , then relax, then repeat.
                                Keeping them in the , rush forward, aspect is the hard part.
                                Add a brush to a 12 pole com in the center ,use a diode ,and feed a 2nd battery, keep a common ground, then just keep flipping the batteries back and forth?

                                Hey Dave watching the Braden with great interest....time and money

                                Comment

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