3 Battery Generating System

[Turion]

Info

bi,
I’m on the road to AZ. Will look at my Amazon purchase history when I get there this evening. That’s the only way I have of giving you a link or part number, and even THEN it will just be a guess. I have purchased probably close to a hundred different boost modules trying them out to see results. If you want to wait until I get back home next Sunday, I can look at the setup that is on my bench right now, but I am pretty sure it is Drock, and they are also current limited. Zahn are probably the best and you would only need one because they are NOT current limited. Expensive though. There are at LEAST three people out there who have built this and have it running with POSITIVE results. If they want to pop in and link to which module they are using, that would cut down on your wait time.

It won’t work for you with a stock motor. It MAY work if you pulse it with a 555 timer. Matt’s motor pulses at the right frequency, the dual boost modules give you a higher amp output and the higher voltage necessary to act as a “battery charger.” All the system does is recirculate SOME of the energy, running it through the motor to give you mechanical work while charging the battery.

The ONLY purpose of the generator attached to the motor and a load attached to the generator was so that solid measurements could be made. Run the motor/ generator combo straight off the battery until the motor stops because the battery runs down and see how many watt hours went to the load with a simple watt meter.

Then run the motor/generator combo on the circuit and see how many watt hours went to the load before it stopped working.

It was always about testing the circuit with the motor as a load, as ALL our past experiments have been. That’s why your data about how long the light bulb would run just made me shake my head.

[wonza]

Full parts list

Is there a full parts list somewhere? Batteries and everything. I've peaked into this thread now and then over the years, but only recently have some more available $$ to start to experiment with things more. Is there a schematic also? Thanks in advance.

[bistander]

Load

bi,
I’m on the road to AZ. Will look at my Amazon purchase history when I get there this evening. That’s the only way I have of giving you a link or part number, and even THEN it will just be a guess. I have purchased probably close to a hundred different boost modules trying them out to see results. If you want to wait until I get back home next Sunday, I can look at the setup that is on my bench right now, but I am pretty sure it is Drock, and they are also current limited. Zahn are probably the best and you would only need one because they are NOT current limited. Expensive though. There are at LEAST three people out there who have built this and have it running with POSITIVE results. If they want to pop in and link to which module they are using, that would cut down on your wait time.

It won’t work for you with a stock motor. It MAY work if you pulse it with a 555 timer. Matt’s motor pulses at the right frequency, the dual boost modules give you a higher amp output and the higher voltage necessary to act as a “battery charger.” All the system does is recirculate SOME of the energy, running it through the motor to give you mechanical work while charging the battery.

The ONLY purpose of the generator attached to the motor and a load attached to the generator was so that solid measurements could be made. Run the motor/ generator combo straight off the battery until the motor stops because the battery runs down and see how many watt hours went to the load with a simple watt meter.

Then run the motor/generator combo on the circuit and see how many watt hours went to the load before it stopped working.

It was always about testing the circuit with the motor as a load, as ALL our past experiments have been. That’s why your data about how long the light bulb would run just made me shake my head.

You did label the bottom box "LOAD".



From your diagram it is obvious the battery delivers the input power to the system and you have the box labeled load, meaning it is the output of the system. I used a resistor as the load. What's wrong with that?

I thought you might be able to get back to the converter from this site. Like was it similar to the ones Matt is fond of?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...2jF5N1o1KOjxQk

Or something fancier?

[Turion]

Clarification

bi,
You are correct. There is a box labeled “load”!
But it is running on the output of the generator and how well it runs is dependent on motor speed, quality of generator and the load itself.
It is really a separate circuit independent of the main circuit, except that puts a load on the motor.

It is the motor and boost module that are running on the battery. The motor either runs better on this circuit, or it does not. The MATT motor that is. I will have time tonight to get on the computer and find what info I can and post it.

Parts List

One motor
One battery
Two boost modules
Those are the basics. To really test, you almost need...
A second motor to use as a generator
Some kind of light or resistor as load.


These are the cheapest boost modules that work for me. There are others that work MUCH, MUCH better, but these will prove the point.
Boost module
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-150W-D...a~Mj:rk:2:pf:0

These are the ones Matt linked to one time I believe
https://www.amazon.com/Gowoops-10-32...+Power+Voltage


Motor
https://www.ebay.com/itm/25H-Sprocke...2e2d:rk:5:pf:0


For a battery you need the largest deep cycle 12 volt battery you can afford, or two deep cycle 6 volt golf cart batteries would be BEST.

[bistander]

Changes

...
The ONLY purpose of the generator attached to the motor and a load attached to the generator was so that solid measurements could be made. Run the motor/ generator combo straight off the battery until the motor stops because the battery runs down and see how many watt hours went to the load with a simple watt meter.

Then run the motor/generator combo on the circuit and see how many watt hours went to the load before it stopped working.

It was always about testing the circuit with the motor as a load, as ALL our past experiments have been. That’s why your data about how long the light bulb would run just made me shake my head.

Bi,
Thank you so much for correcting my use of terms once again. It's a good thing you have THAT skill, because the numbers you gave for what you built would indicate that it is nowhere near COP>1. You still have everything working against you. With an inefficient boost converter, a stock motor, no speed up under load and magnetic drag from the generator, you are seeing what MOST people will see. Which is why they give up. Even WITH a Matt motor in that circuit it is the GENERATOR that determines success or failure. Without something unique, you get a system that may run for a longer period of time, but it is still going to run down. The only way to make up for losses in the system is to have a generator that outputs significantly MORE power than is needed to run it. The 3 battery system is an incredible assist to that, because it recycles a LOT of the energy the motor uses, but it cannot solve ALL the problems. Until you eliminate ALL of those issues, you will never get there.
...

Sounded like a different opinion of the generator a few months ago.

[bistander]

Not separate

bi,
You are correct. There is a box labeled “load”!
But it is running on the output of the generator and how well it runs is dependent on motor speed, quality of generator and the load itself.
It is really a separate circuit independent of the main circuit, except that puts a load on the motor.
...

How can you say it is a separate circuit? It feeds the load current back to the input.

[Turion]

Explanation

There is one circuit supplied by the battery. There is one circuit supplied by the generator. Two separate sources of supply. Two separate circuits. Yes, they feed a common battery, but one begins with DC and the other begins with AC.

There is no “different opinion” concerning the generator. Never has been. Never will be. On these small prototypes we have released, there are different objectives. We originally showed just the three battery system with the Matt motor. That was capable of getting extended run times if you had EVERYTHING perfectly balanced, and it was hard to do. NOT impossible though. Some folks got it and some did not. How well they wound and set up the motor, the condition of their batteries, all of that played a part. When we introduced the boost module it made getting those extended run times MUCH easier. MORE people were able to get it to work, although you STILL need a Matt motor and you CAN’T use crap batteries. But you’re still JUST talking about extended run times.

When you add the generator and start putting some of its output back to the system now you can get COP>1, which is what everyone wants. If your generator is big enough, meaning it has enough generator coils, you no longer need the Matt motor because the generator output makes up for ALL the losses in the system, as long as you are pulsing the motor somehow. But building a generator BIG enough has problems of its own. Try turning a rotor loaded with magnets past MORE than two or three coils and the motor will pull so many amps it burns up. Go ahead. I know. I burnt up at least a dozen motors before I came up with a generator that CAN have 10 or MORE coils on it and an be turned by a tiny MY1016 razor scooter motor without drawing more than 30 amps at startup and 12 amps while running. Something YOU say has “no value.”

Then I released the single battery circuit to show, in the simplest form, how the energy could be recirculated. NOT a COP>1 system. Just one that would give extended run times, but with the POTENTIAL to have COP>1 with the right generator.

If you would quit trying so hard to find fault and just open your eyes and really LOOK, you would see what we are trying to do. As we have learned new things we tried to share. But because of people like YOU we stopped sharing the new stuff. If people want that, they will need to follow the path and find it on their own. All I will say is that we have shown EVERYTHING that is necessary to put together a system that will power your home from the output of a single battery that the system keeps charged up. Now I know you. You’re going to demand proof of claims like you always do. That’s just not going to happen. There is money to be made from this and we intend to make some. Not just a little by selling books or kits or doing demos at conferences, but a lot. We certainly aren’t GIVING it away to people who whine about building the basic setup and learning ANYTHING about how this stuff works. We have invested thousands of dollars in this research and haven’t asked for or MADE a dime. It’s time we DID. Once we HAVE, if it is still possible to share, I’m sure the next steps will get out there. Unless someone else figures it all out and posts it FIRST.

[bistander]

Generator

There is one circuit supplied by the battery. There is one circuit supplied by the generator. Two separate sources of supply. Two separate circuits. Yes, they feed a common battery, but one begins with DC and the other begins with AC.

...

Was a meaning to ask about your circuit diagram. All the generators I've seen you use put out AC, right? You left out the rectifier and filter on the diagram. I on the other hand used a DC generator.

And from the very start, four years ago, your "Basic Free Energy Device" (thread) included a generator to "make" this free energy. A quote from post one on that thread:

A simple two coil device should put out TWICE the power that the motor consumes in running and 80-85% of what the motor uses should be recoverable. That is the basic unit. Just two coils and a rotor run by a motor with a flywheel.

And as I've said many times, the over unity generator you claim is all I'm really interested in.

bi

[Turion]

Response

Interested, but not committed enough to wind a couple coils and prove anything to yourself. A true researcher.

I didn’t put the bridge rectifier because I didn’t specify the KIND of generator. I just put “generator in the diagram. Could be DC. Could be AC.

One point I need to make. The “speed up under load”’aspect of the generator is possible, but you have to LOOK at things. You get speed up under load but decreased coil output. If you tune the system correctly you get NO speed up under load, but GREATEST coil output. The important part is no DRAG on the motor when generator is under load. Neutral. Free wheeling.

[bistander]

Coils

I've wound many coils and demonstrated (proven?) much to myself.

[Turion]

Oh?

So you’ve either proven the claims I’ve made for speed up under load and magnetic neutralization or disproven them? Which is it?

[bistander]

Proof

So you’ve either proven the claims I’ve made for speed up under load and magnetic neutralization or disproven them? Which is it?

I asked you first (to prove your claim of the 1800 watt out/300 watt input generator). But anyway, I've learned enough to know those two specific claims of yours don't matter in regards to machine performance under load, so deserve no further investigation from me. BTW, I have not seen proof from you that "magnetic neutralization" or "speed up under load" makes a positive difference in the machine while running at rated load. Just like cogging. So what if you eliminate it? It doesn't affect loaded performance anyway.

But go ahead and play with these distractions. I don't feel the need.

bi

[Majestic81]

Hi All,

I've setup the sequencer board in a 3BGS configuration using 12.8V -10A LIFEPO4 on 6 x 12v - 40A relay's.

As load I am using a 220V inverter with a boost converter before the load at around 24Volts.

I am able to run a 5W to 60W load on it.
I am awaiting AWG12 cabling before I will upgrade the load further.

Problem thought : how to keep a potential difference and thus running the load when all batteries are topping up at 14.4 volts?

[Turion]

Deal

When you prove to me that you can turn a rotor with 12 one inch neon magnets on it with a small electric motor past 12 generating coils with over a thousand feet of wire on them as YOU claim you are able to do...(since you have said speed up under load and magnetic neutralization make NO difference) I will drop everything I am doing and prove inputs and outputs. But I already know that you CANNOT, because such a setup would stop your motor DEAD. The difference here is I have already built this stuff, and you are just talking through your hat.

[Turion]

Problem

Majestic81,

If all batteries are holding voltage you just need to put an additional load on battery 3 to keep it pulled down and maintain your potential difference. Figuring out HIWMUCH of a load will be the problem. Too much or two little and it goes to pot. You have to balance everything.