3 Battery Generating System

[bistander]

Reply

Hmm, I thought this thread is about makers, about sharing experiences, about learning together from each other. I shared without any restriction all that I have learned, with failures and small progresses, sometimes...
I am not complaining about anything, I don't ask anything, I'm not judging no one, I am only asking:
what is the purpose of this thread, after all?
Anyway, I want to thank everyone who tried to help me: hat off!
Good luck in your researches!
Best regards,
Teodor.

Hi axxelxavier,

It does seem like Turion contradicts himself and avoids answering questions. I thought Aaron's resent posts explained the phenomena at the heart of the matter. So I altered my experiment plan to explore directly what he explained rather than repeat what you did. I just need to wait on delivery of the instrument (in the mail) so I can document the charge cycle energy. Hope you stick around. I like to see your data posts.

Regards,

bi

[Turion]

Clarification

I said none of the 3 Battery stuff we have presented AS IT STANDS can be scaled up to run a home. That does not mean with a GENERATOR it couldn't, and it doesn't mean that if the concepts taught here are PROPERLY APPLIED you couldn't get what you need. I just don't want people believing you can get all the energy in the world out of a 3 Battery system, because it is too small to do much of anything the way we have presented it. It is only for proof of concept, and even THEN people don't build it correctly, so why show anything ELSE?

[Iamnuts]

Battery store.

I needed a battery today and called by my supplier.
When they were filling the acid I had a look round and noticed a few Optima
batteries in a corner.
They looked a bit different so this evening I had a look on the ‘bayOptima YELLOW TOP YTS 4.2 8012-254 8012254 AGM Battery 12Volt 55Ah 765A is an AGM technology dual-purpose deep-cycle and starting battery. This battery has three times the cycling capability (rechargeability) with ultimate cranking power for your auto, car or truck to outperform traditional batteries. This battery is perfect for powering heavy electrical loads, including winches, audio systems, inverters, and other demanding vehicle accessories and electronics. Lower internal resistance provides more efficient power output and faster recharges.

Main Features:

Lasts twice longer than traditional batteries
More than 15 times the vibration resistance
Completely spillproof, mountable in virtually any position
Maintenance-free
Faster recharging
300+ discharge/recharge cycles

Unfortunately all of this comes at a price. They seem to me to be about
three times the price of the ones I usually buy.

[axxelxavier]

Hi axxelxavier,
It does seem like Turion contradicts himself and avoids answering questions. I thought Aaron's resent posts explained the phenomena at the heart of the matter. So I altered my experiment plan to explore directly what he explained rather than repeat what you did. I just need to wait on delivery of the instrument (in the mail) so I can document the charge cycle energy. Hope you stick around. I like to see your data posts.Regards,bi

I don't want to argue, with nobody. I payed attention to Aaron's explanations, as they fit with my own other projects. Maybe I will talk about them, when I have some validated results to show. Or maybe not.
I will consider sticking around, to see your tests - I'm curious if they coincide my current path.
If interested, I am going to make some other 3BGS tests, in a „classical manner”, maybe will present some interest for you or anyone. This time, however, batteries are charged differently: one with classical charger, and the other with a pulse charger. I will make this test probably in the weekend, to fit in a bigger time frame work.

... and even THEN people don't build it correctly, so why show anything ELSE?

Maybe some of us need encouragements, maybe some of us need examples... I cannot afford LiFePo4 or some fancy high tech devices (including oscilloscope), and I know the motor - generator system works, but right now I'm looking for a silent version (solid-state?), because the noise is simply too annoying in my small apartment. There must be other ways to achieve the same result.
And yes, I am a practical man, I want something which I can use in real life.
Lighting in my house (100-150 watt), while regenerating / recharging some batteries, will be enough, for me.
Best regards,
Teodor

[altrez]

Hello All,

What is the most current schematic for each circuit that everyone is using to test with? I want to make sure that I have the right setup for my next run of tests this week.

Thank you,

-Altrez

[altrez]

Hi axxelxavier,

It does seem like Turion contradicts himself and avoids answering questions. I thought Aaron's resent posts explained the phenomena at the heart of the matter. So I altered my experiment plan to explore directly what he explained rather than repeat what you did. I just need to wait on delivery of the instrument (in the mail) so I can document the charge cycle energy. Hope you stick around. I like to see your data posts.

Regards,

bi

Hello bi,

Can you please share the name of the device / link that you ordered. I would like to buy one so we can compare results.

Thanks!

-Altrez

[bistander]

Data instrument

Hello bi,

Can you please share the name of the device / link that you ordered. I would like to buy one so we can compare results.

Thanks!

-Altrez

Hi Altrez,

Sure. It arrived today. Later tonight or tomorrow, after I get it wired into a circuit and see it actually function.

Glad to see an interest.

bi

Edit: It took a while but I am communicating with the device. I'll try storing data tomorrow. Looks like a nice device. Like the quality.
https://moosh.im/mooshimeter/

[Iamnuts]

Well done!

Bistander, looking forward to seeing your results.
I’m sure you’re going to provide some reliable information.
If you have time, it would be nice if you could show schematic.
Thank you John.

[altrez]

Hi Altrez,

Sure. It arrived today. Later tonight or tomorrow, after I get it wired into a circuit and see it actually function.

Glad to see an interest.

bi

Edit: It took a while but I am communicating with the device. I'll try storing data tomorrow. Looks like a nice device. Like the quality.
https://moosh.im/mooshimeter/

Hello bi,

Thank you for the link. I ordered one off Amazon that will be here next week. I also got a 32 gig sd card for the unit to save data locally.

-Altrez

[bistander]

Data instrument

Hello bi,

Thank you for the link. I ordered one off Amazon that will be here next week. I also got a 32 gig sd card for the unit to save data locally.

-Altrez

Hi Altrez,

I hooked up a simple battery to resistor circuit.



It took a bit of fussing around but got it working reading both volts and amps. Still need to work on real time graph. I did record and store the data on the SD card. File included switch from resistor to charger. Got the file over to my laptop in Xcel. Looks like something I can work with.

Regards,

bi

[altrez]

Hi Altrez,

I hooked up a simple battery to resistor circuit.



It took a bit of fussing around but got it working reading both volts and amps. Still need to work on real time graph. I did record and store the data on the SD card. File included switch from resistor to charger. Got the file over to my laptop in Xcel. Looks like something I can work with.

Regards,

bi

Looks good. I am excited for mine to get here now. I am planing on starting all the way back to the beginning with just 3 battery's and work up from there.



-Altrez

[Iamnuts]

Find.

I like looking for the latest products, we use lead acid hard, they only last
several weeks and they’re done.
I found this battery and it looks impressive.http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...1&d=1549657418

[Iamnuts]

My belief.

This is the sort of thing my own experience has shown me.


Answering to the question "Is there data available to quantify a loss in lead-acid battery quality from low-voltage events?" here are two good sources:

"Battery life is directly related to how deep the battery is cycled each time. If a battery is discharged to 50% every day, it will last about twice as long as if it is cycled to 80% DOD[1]. If cycled only 10% DOD, it will last about 5 times as long as one cycled to 50%. Obviously, there are some practical limitations on this - you don't usually want to have a 5 ton pile of batteries sitting there just to reduce the DOD. The most practical number to use is 50% DOD on a regular basis." -- https://www.solar-electric.com/deep-...ttery-faq.html

"typical life of starter and deep-cycle batteries when deep cycled:

Depth of Discharge Starter Battery Deep-cycle Battery
------------------------------------------------------------
100% 12–15 cycles 150–200 cycles
50% 100–120 cycles 400–500 cycles
30% 130–150 cycles 1,000 and more cycles
" -- Lead-based Batteries Information ? Battery University

[BobFrench]

Simple switching...very cool. Add a little solar.

I have been running a 3 Battery System with the following setup using 6 batteries, but it can be done with 3 batteries also. I wanted to go to 24 and 48 volts with a 24v potential difference, so I'm using 3 pairs of batteries. The middle battery (or batteries) are always part of the Primary...they never become used as the Battery 3. So I am only switching between the other two.
Also, I am adding solar to the middle batteries and this makes some very interesting advantages when there is good sun. Because the solar pushes these batteries high and they are in series with the other Primary batteries, The Primaries and the potential difference between the positives remain very high for a long time. It also allows for Battery 3 to be charged to a higher level before the system has to be switched. And because there is extra energy from the solar, all the batteries can gain as the system cycles.
I added a DPDT switch and by throwing that one switch I swap batteries AND reverse the leads of the load. This is because the middle batteries can have their positive as the high voltage positive (+) all the time and the other batteries provide the low voltage positive (-). This means that with one switch the low voltage positive changes. And the load is always attached to the middle Primary's high voltage positive (+), so only the low voltage side (-) needs to be changed. When it comes time to run the energy back the other way, you just throw one switch...and it's done.
Notes: The big orange switches are set and not changes in this setup. I use them to switch each pair of batteries between 12v and 24v. With this current setup they stay in 24v arrangement all the time. Also, if you notice that there are three thick red wires attached to the black switch. They are for switching the batteries and there are black wires for the load switching, but they are hard to follow. BTW, the load lead switches to the opposite side from the Secondary that is being switched to.
It's been a while since I've posted, but I've been researching, experimenting and building all the time...every day. Enjoy.

Bob

[altrez]

Hello All,

I picked up on Amazon a small adjustable DC load so I could test my battery's consistently. It works pretty good so far and I am testing now with a 7ah battery at the c20 ratting.





I am going to compare the time on a stand alone battery and then on the 3bs with this as the load. Seems like a good start.

-Altrez

Edit: Not sure what I was thinking this morning but that was a 5ah battery. I have adjusted the load to 0.250