3 Battery Generating System

[sunlight]

hello

hello thank you MATT for your advices best regard sunlight

[Matthew Jones]

hello someone can tell me how to test my motor after rewind thank you
best regard sunlight

Run it at 12 volt and 24 volt. Measure the current should be around 1.3 amp. Then check the rpms should be around 12v 2800 rpms 24v 5000 rpms. If its not there work on it.

Matt

[sunlight]

hello

hello someone can tell me how to test my motor after rewind thank you
best regard sunlight

[axxelxavier]

Oh OK, I thought you had wound with "0.5" (or 24 awg actually .511mm). "0.55" is closer to 23 AWG. Matt

Yeah, actually I used what I have around me, there was no reason to buy different gauge wire.
Best regards,
Teodor

[Netica]

I thought I answered this but apparently I didn't complete the post. Sorry... In the case with the boost converter the returned power goes to the smoothing cap at the end of the boost converter. This is less energy the battery has to provide. Reducing the cost.
Most the returned energy is used up in heat from hysteresis thats why the motors get warm. This can be solved but we have not confirmed that yet so I am not going there.

Matt

Thank you for your help with this Matt.

netica

[Matthew Jones]

It is about tuning, I think. I tried again to fine tune the backplate of the motor, and indeed, the motor draw 1,3 to 1,5 Amp on 3BGS, at 12 volts.
At 24 volt (the motor is connected directly to the booster, so no differential voltage, no 2BGS), the motor is drawing 1,8-1,9 Amp, so I think I can't do better than this except rewinding the rotor with 0,5 mm wire, not 0,55 as mine.
Anyway, the torque is quite impressive - I can't stop the motor by hand, even at 12 volts, so I can start the generator side tests...
Best regards,
Teodor

Oh OK, I thought you had wound with "0.5" (or 24 awg actually .511mm). "0.55" is closer to 23 AWG. That would definitely increase the current. More heat too.

https://technick.net/guides/electronics/awg_to_metric/


I apologize I should have included more metric measurements is the instructions. But you know us yanks we're kinda one sided about that stuff. Our way or the highway...LOL.

Matt

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Matt, Turion

As far as I understand the modified motor provides a pulse of power back to the positive from where the power comes from, now that has to go through the boost converter before it gets back to the battery, The boost converters have diodes in them because of how they work.
My question is how does the pulse get through the boost converter back to the battery positive, as I can't see how it gets past the boost converter.

netica

I thought I answered this but apparently I didn't complete the post. Sorry... In the case with the boost converter the returned power goes to the smoothing cap at the end of the boost converter. This is less energy the battery has to provide. Reducing the cost.
Most the returned energy is used up in heat from hysteresis thats why the motors get warm. This can be solved but we have not confirmed that yet so I am not going there.

Matt

[sunlight]

HI all

good evening to all finally my account has been activated thanks to the administrators, especially thank you to M.TURION who gave me two motors and parts needed to build the system 3bgs, he paid everything for me , including shipping to africa, i finished rewinding my motors and i wish to have the help needed to start .

Best Regards Sunlight

[axxelxavier]

I have run mine for hours on end maybe 8 at the most testing. The only true way to make the thing cool is to use a ferrite material for the rotor. [...] Hysteresis caused by the returned power is what causes the heat and no amount of venting is going to change that, just relive it a little.If you pulling more than 1.3-1.5 amp at 24v while idling something is still wrong but I can't be sure what. Mine runs at 1.4 24v and heats up to 31c at +- 5200 rpms. Its tuned for speed not returned energy.
Matt

It is about tuning, I think. I tried again to fine tune the backplate of the motor, and indeed, the motor draw 1,3 to 1,5 Amp on 3BGS, at 12 volts.
At 24 volt (the motor is connected directly to the booster, so no differential voltage, no 2BGS), the motor is drawing 1,8-1,9 Amp, so I think I can't do better than this except rewinding the rotor with 0,5 mm wire, not 0,55 as mine.
Anyway, the torque is quite impressive - I can't stop the motor by hand, even at 12 volts, so I can start the generator side tests...
Best regards,
Teodor

[Turion]

My exerience

Maybe if Matt gets a few minutes between explosions he can confirm this, but it has been my exerience with this system that when you have things a certain way it will charge the primaries down the negative leg.

[Netica]

Build and test it to find out.....

I am doing so, however because I am thinking about it and a part that I am having trouble understanding, and very close to utilising, I thought I would just ask.

I would have to say in all the time I have been on this forum that this is the most unhelpful reply I have ever received. The post wasn't directed to you and although I welcome anyone's input I don't welcome it in the way you have given it.

I can't see the problem in discussing certain aspects of what is being built after all thats the whole point of discussion and learning, not just for myself but others who may be working on the project to bring about a more complete understanding to everyone interested.

[Majestic81]

Build and test it to find out.....

Hi Matt, Turion

As far as I understand the modified motor provides a pulse of power back to the positive from where the power comes from, now that has to go through the boost converter before it gets back to the battery, The boost converters have diodes in them because of how they work.
My question is how does the pulse get through the boost converter back to the battery positive, as I can't see how it gets past the boost converter.

netica

[Netica]

Hi Matt, Turion

As far as I understand the modified motor provides a pulse of power back to the positive from where the power comes from, now that has to go through the boost converter before it gets back to the battery, The boost converters have diodes in them because of how they work.
My question is how does the pulse get through the boost converter back to the battery positive, as I can't see how it gets past the boost converter.

netica

[Matthew Jones]

I have run mine for hours on end maybe 8 at the most testing.

The only true way to make the thing cool is to use a ferrite material for the rotor. I have not had a chance to test it though. The material has to be a finer grain 200 mic and mixed and set with fiberglass reinforced epoxy. Maybe mixed at 80/20 epoxy and poured into a 3d printed shell to take shape. No alignment.

Turion started to test it but then had to move his house and thats still a ways out. Not sure when I'll get to it.

Hysteresis caused by the returned power is what causes the heat and no amount of venting is going to change that, just relive it a little.

If you pulling more than 1.3-1.5 amp at 24v while idling something is still wrong but I can't be sure what. Mine runs at 1.4 24v and heats up to 31c at +- 5200 rpms. Its tuned for speed not returned energy.

Matt

[axxelxavier]

Other pictures, this time in Celsius degrees. The biggest temperatures can be observed in the 4-th picture, with sensor on side hole. Pictures taken at cca 2,4 running time hours.
Very quiet in here...
L.E. Anyway, the motor was running for 4 hours continuously, last 3 hours on 12 volts, and the temperature of the MY1016 is constant, the motor is only warm, as can be seen in pictures.
For 24 volts or for using on big loads, though, some suplimentar ventilation holes must be done on sides. I would make bigger holes, also, on the back plate, because this is warmer than frontplate.
Best regards,
Teodor