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  • ron48
    replied
    I love reading your posts too with my milo not coffee

    Leave a comment:


  • i_ron
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    I’m not telling you to stop. I’m just saying don’t feel obligated to keep this going. If it strikes your fancy, go for it. You seem to be the only one posting.
    But not the only one reading.

    Ron

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Clarification

    I’m not telling you to stop. I’m just saying don’t feel obligated to keep this going. If it strikes your fancy, go for it. You seem to be the only one posting.

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    To the great beyond

    Ok. To the great bone yard of threads it goes. I'll be having coffee by myself with my thoughts unspoken.......

    What a pity

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Thoughts

    Wantomake,
    Please don't feel obligated to keep this thread on life support. Both Matt and I are perfectly content to let it pass on to the great beyond. Those that want to hang out and let others do the work so they can see if someone else is successful before they stick their toe in the water don't deserve the help. Those that build for themselves have enough info to build a basic setup and see for themselves if this is for real or not. And I am pretty good about responding to people through email or PM if they have specific questions I am willing to answer.

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    My1016 motor

    Been trying different things with the my1016 modified Matt motor. With 100° days here in South Carolina my shop times are limited.

    It's for learning purposes only. Shorting the coils, collecting coil spikes, just curious ideas. Using work bench power supply it's much easier to test un-necessary ideas for curiosity sake.

    Yes still nuking the coffee,
    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    Subject matter

    Sorry can't comment on the subject at hand.

    It's good so many innovative ideas being tested for this 3BGS setup. I want to add to this collective to finish this build. Thanks guys for all you are doing.

    I'm still at it just very very slow.

    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Like I said its bullet proof. Especially after you change the extruder, if you even have to. They keep that thing up to date like nothing else.

    Myself I do not have a reason for anything bigger. I would just mill the bigger stuff from solid material.
    You always need little spacer and shims and retainers this works great for those things. Printed a Door knob part a couple of weeks back.

    Good cad software is everywhere now days, Fusion 360 ands E machine shop, and Heeks are the3 I use the most, mostly fusion 360.

    Beats Duck tape and bubble gum for sure.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    3D printer

    I got one of the ones Matt is talking about on his recommendation, but haven’t even fired it up yet. Waiting for the filament to get here. May be here tomorrow.

    Be careful to understand the print area of any printer you buy. The one Matt is linking to seems bulletproof, but the print area may be too small for what you want to do with it. I have tons of plastic pieces I need to print in the rebuilding of my ‘71

    Leave a comment:


  • altrez
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Altrez,
    Hope you looked at the specs for the size of the print area of that machine! I have one too, and it is not designed for larger parts. It looks pretty bulletproof, but it is NOT a full size 3D printer. It is great for a LOT of things though and will come in handy printing all the small parts I need in rebuilding my '71 FJ55 "Iron Pig".
    Hey Dave,

    Yes I did. I think it will be a good introduction to 3d printing and its a great price. If It works half as well as I think it will I am sure it will be great!

    -Altrez

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Altrez,
    Hope you looked at the specs for the size of the print area of that machine! I have one too, and it is not designed for larger parts. It looks pretty bulletproof, but it is NOT a full size 3D printer. It is great for a LOT of things though and will come in handy printing all the small parts I need in rebuilding my '71 FJ55 "Iron Pig".

    Leave a comment:


  • altrez
    replied
    Originally posted by Matthew Jones View Post
    Monoprice MINI
    https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_...seq=1&format=2

    My extruder stopped working after about 6 prints and I replaced in with this.

    https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Extr...metal+extruder

    But short of that this thing just prints its a$$ off. I use PETG for filament but if your just getting started use PLA. Cura is the slicer you use with this and there are plenty of You Tubes on how to set it up for the mini.

    Matt
    Thank you Matt!

    I just ordered one and some PLA like you suggested.



    -Altrez

    Leave a comment:


  • Matthew Jones
    replied
    Originally posted by altrez View Post
    Hello Dave,

    Can you recommend a good 3d printer? I am in the market for one!

    Thanks!

    -Altrez
    Monoprice MINI
    https://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_...seq=1&format=2

    My extruder stopped working after about 6 prints and I replaced in with this.

    https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Extr...metal+extruder

    But short of that this thing just prints its a$$ off. I use PETG for filament but if your just getting started use PLA. Cura is the slicer you use with this and there are plenty of You Tubes on how to set it up for the mini.

    Matt

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Molded rotor for the MY1016 try #1 was an OUTSTANDING failure.
    Thanks for the data on mold difficulties


    .................................................. ...............................

    This post has been moved read here
    http://www.energeticforum.com/311201-post707.html
    Last edited by BroMikey; 06-16-2018, 03:34 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • altrez
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    Molded rotor for the MY1016 try #1 was an OUTSTANDING failure. Even though I spent a ton of time waxing the mold with release agent, buffing it, rewaxing it, etc., I could not get the mold to release the ferrite. I beat on it with a ten pound sledge and it still would NOT come out. The GOOD news is, the ferrite core did not chip or break even though I beat it to death. AND, Matt had already come up with a BETTER plan. A form made of thin walled plastic on the 3D printer that you simply fill with ferrite and LEAVE in place. Wind the wire around the whole thing, and away you go. He already has the design drawn up and has printed a couple experimental runs, changing the extruder size to make the walls thinner. I couldn’t stand it, so I bought the same 3D printer Matt has, and once he sends me the program I will be able to print some too.

    I also wanted to print some custom coil forms for the generator. Round on one end, so they will slide into the hole, but square on the other end so that once they slide in, the square end fits into a square opening so the coil can’t turn. For those of you who haven’t built a generator with lots of powerful magnets on the rotor going by coils, the coils want to rotate and it will actually pull wires loose.

    Give me a few days and we will update you on the MY1016 rebuild progress.
    Hello Dave,

    Can you recommend a good 3d printer? I am in the market for one!

    Thanks!

    -Altrez

    Leave a comment:

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