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I'm here working on mine. Thought i'd be out all day, but have a bee swarm in the back yard and can't leave the dogs out in THAT. I can sneak into the basement and hope they don't come after me...since it has only an outside entrance.
Dave
“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist
F3 discharges C1. D2 is in place to straighten the AC out. F2 Discharges C2.
Follow me?
Matt
Thanks. Yes I do understand that D2 is in place to straighten the ac out.
C1 if it is going to discharge into P1 and P2 by F3 then it needs a UNBLOCKED + path to P1 + and D2 is blocking it's path to the + of P1 so no power can flow out of C1 - by F3 because C1's + is blocked by D2 and there is no other path for C1 + to P1 + the way you have it, unless I am missing something
Thanks. Yes I do understand that D2 is in place to straighten the ac out.
C1 if it is going to discharge into P1 and P2 by F3 then it needs a UNBLOCKED + path to P1 + and D2 is blocking it's path to the + of P1 so no power can flow out of C1 - by F3 because C1's + is blocked by D2 and there is no other path for C1 + to P1 + the way you have it, unless I am missing something
Mattthew
One more thing now that C1 and C2 have a + path to P1 and P2 the protection
diodes on F1 F2, and F3 represent a dead short across F1 F2 and F3 because the direction they are trend will let the - of C1 and C2 flow back through to the + of C1 and C2 when the transformer tries to charge C1 and C2 the power will flow back through the protection diodes on the Fets. The current will be to much for them and thy will blow out then on the next switching cycle of each Fet they will be blown out because they will no longer have the diode to protect them from transient spikes. I know reverse diode's like this will blow because Steve and I did it on a four battery TS. I hope this helps
What do you think?
Mattthew
One more thing now that C1 and C2 have a + path to P1 and P2 the protection
diodes on F1 F2, and F3 represent a dead short across F1 F2 and F3 because the direction they are trend will let the - of C1 and C2 flow back through to the + of C1 and C2 when the transformer tries to charge C1 and C2 the power will flow back through the protection diodes on the Fets. The current will be to much for them and thy will blow out then on the next switching cycle of each Fet they will be blown out because they will no longer have the diode to protect them from transient spikes. I know reverse diode's like this will blow because Steve and I did it on a four battery TS. I hope this helps
What do you think?
Ya you might be right. My caps aren't charging. No major damage will happen though. I'll turn them on mine and see if it helps. The caps aren't charging but they are old and I thought they may have gone bad.
Good news though...
Even without the cap dumper my bulb is lit. I have 12v battery charging at 14.20 volt and the primaries have been slowly coming back up.
I have made changes to the original schematic at F2 and F3, also at D2 we moved a wire. Also Added a 1kv .01 uf capacitor across the drain and source of F1. And Added a 600 v 10 amp diode across the drain and source for further protection.
OK so I got this thing running but I screwed up a bit and didn't pay attention to the impedance on my windings. I have got .6 ohms on my primaries. I should have used a bigger wire. The results of having more than .1 are you get voltage divider on the pulse so everyone should note how much resistance they have on the windings.,
Anyway I'll rewind it and fix it, soon as I can.
If someone is following this thread and is not doing the experiment but still want to help you could compile all the latest data so everything up to date can be found in one place.
This thing will work, I am already seeing it. It will take some time and patience to get some bigger loads out of it but what else do we have to do.
Matthew
I have seen some of what you have done and I know you know what you are after. It will work so thanks for not giving up on it or those that are willing to keep going.
I have made changes to the original schematic at F2 and F3, also at D2 we moved a wire. Also Added a 1kv .01 uf capacitor across the drain and source of F1. And Added a 600 v 10 amp diode across the drain and source for further protection.
MAKE SURE TO USE THIS SCHEMATIC!!!!
Cheers
Matt
Hi Matt
Thank you for the update but a couple questions these 1kv 0.01 uf capacitor and 600 v 10 amp diode are any or there is a special one I mean the capacitor can I use ceramic and also the diode is ultra-fast or normal diode just 600v 10A?
And about the transformer I am using now #23AWG shall I go with thicker wire or I will stick with this gauge after what happened to your transformer?
Ehsan
Take the wisdom even from the mouths of the insane
Matthew
I have seen some of what you have done and I know you know what you are after. It will work so thanks for not giving up on it or those that are willing to keep going.
Well you have seen it first hand. This one does the same thing but it is slightly less powerful and alot more controllable. I have several times now been able to make it work correctly with other circuits, I know this one is worth going after even if the load is not so big.
Thank you for the update but a couple questions these 1kv 0.01 uf capacitor and 600 v 10 amp diode are any or there is a special one I mean the capacitor can I use ceramic and also the diode is ultra-fast or normal diode just 600v 10A?
And about the transformer I am using now #23AWG shall I go with thicker wire or I will stick with this gauge after what happened to your transformer?
Ehsan
The diodes can be Ufast but it doesn't matter just high voltage is really what your looking for 2 amp is good enough. Thats just aa diode I had on hand. The cap is ceramic .1uf.
Both are probably not needed with most smaller setups but it won't hurt to have them.
Just measure the resistance of your wire. If its over .1 ohm you probably should do something bigger.
The diodes can be Ufast but it doesn't matter just high voltage is really what your looking for 2 amp is good enough. Thats just aa diode I had on hand. The cap is ceramic .1uf.
Both are probably not needed with most smaller setups but it won't hurt to have them.
Just measure the resistance of your wire. If its over .1 ohm you probably should do something bigger.
Matt
Hi Matt
My wire resistance is 1.6 ohm so I have to unwind the transformer and get a bigger wire maybe #20AWG but in this case I want be able to wind 12m long so what should I do?
Ehsan
Take the wisdom even from the mouths of the insane
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