3 Battery Generating System

[ehsanco1062]

My first run didnt work

Hi Matt
I did my first run today after putting all the batteries out and did all the preparation to run the scalar I even put two switches for cutting the power off the primary battery and when I run the codes for the stamp nothings happen the load bulb didn’t lit no change in all the readingno oscillatiing nothing at all so I turn off the scalar and making this post I film the whole proses and I have some picture I didn’t want to mess with anything because I don’t want to be shock by the high voltage.
Here is some picture

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/photo.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/photo-1.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/photo-2.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/photo-3.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/photo-4.JPG
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/photo-5.JPG
I will post the video later
Good luck
Ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

Hi Matt
Here is the video

Scalar Charger first run - YouTube

Ehsan

[Matthew Jones]

SO your code by default only pulses one time and the pulse is very small. So you need to change a few things.

SW VAR Word 
SW = 0

DO UNTIL SW = 1 
  PULSOUT 0, 10 
  PULSOUT 10,10 
  SW = (SW + 1)
LOOP

So the first thing you can do is pulse more ....

SW VAR Word 
SW = 0

DO UNTIL SW = 200 'Or higher if you want.
  PULSOUT 0, 100 'Pulsout longer
  PULSOUT 10,100 'pulsout longer
  SW = (SW + 1)
LOOP

And keep going up until its starts to work.
I am sorry I am not answering right away. I have not got any emailsd from this thread although I subscribed. I do not know whats going on.
Matt

[Matthew Jones]

Also when the thing runs you should see the results on the scope although it will be very short. So when you run it make sure you look at the scope and see if if you get some pulses.

Matt

[ehsanco1062]

SO your code by default only pulses one time and the pulse is very small. So you need to change a few things.

SW VAR Word 
SW = 0

DO UNTIL SW = 1 
  PULSOUT 0, 10 
  PULSOUT 10,10 
  SW = (SW + 1)
LOOP

So the first thing you can do is pulse more ....

SW VAR Word 
SW = 0

DO UNTIL SW = 200 'Or higher if you want.
  PULSOUT 0, 100 'Pulsout longer
  PULSOUT 10,100 'pulsout longer
  SW = (SW + 1)
LOOP

And keep going up until its starts to work.
I am sorry I am not answering right away. I have not got any emailsd from this thread although I subscribed. I do not know whats going on.
Matt

It's ok Matt you don't have to be sorry I know you are busy and you have a lot of things to do .
I will follow your instruction and did more test today and I will post all the result I will get and probably vid
Thank you Matt

Ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

Hi Matt

It seems that I made a mistake on my wiring from basic stamp to the drive board and I fixed that so it's running but I couldnt make the cap charge more than 25.1v .
I did go to
SW=600
PULSOUT 0,400
PULSOUT 10,400

So I see the pulse on the scop and reading on cap but there is no charge on the charging battery and the bulb don't lit.
Any farther thing to do to make the cap go to 48v ?
I will post video later
good luck

Ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

Hi Matt

do I have to discharge the caps after each run ?
I have noticed that when i disconnect the loadbulb and make run there will be no pulse !
I still can not go above 25.2v no matter what I change the pulseout and SW values.
I have noticed that the pulse is about 130v on the scop

good luck

Ehsan

[Turion]

Ehsan,

Discharge cap between runs. That's the only way to know for sure you're hitting 48-50 volts

[ehsanco1062]

Ehsan,

Discharge cap between runs. That's the only way to know for sure you're hitting 48-50 volts

Thank you Dave but this will be a terrible prosses because I have voltmeter hooked on each cap so I have to disconnect the voltmeter first and then discharge the cap!!
will discharging the cap and the voltmeter hooked on them will damage the voltmeter ?
that will be cool if it dosent.

here is the video:

scalar charger running part 1 - YouTube

Good luck

Ehsan

[Turion]

Ehsan,
There is no easy way to do this, but what I would suggest is connect two wires to the cap. Connect your leads to the meter to the ends of these wires. Then disconnect the leads and short the two wires together to discharge the cap and reconnect the leads to the meters. You want to short the wires together rather than shorting across the aluminum terminals of the cap or they will eventually burn up. I have no idea how shorting will affect the meters, so I wouldn't recommend leaving them attached.

I think if you read back through Matt's posts he said you might not get above 25 volts with only two batteries. I don't remember the post number for that, but I know it is something he has talked about and he might have even said something about how to get around it.

I will be back to working on this in the next couple days. Have had a couple other more pressing projects. The door down to my basement kingdom finally rotted away from the hinges and collapsed. (It's an outside entrance like a storm shelter) and I have been tearing out the framework and replacing it. Installing a new door and doing some cement patch work, so haven't gotten much done on this project. Both this and my 3BGS are just sitting there driving me crazy. And I had to use a table saw to cut boards. NOT my favorite thing to do!! I was thinking about Matt the whole time.

Best of luck.

Dave

[ehsanco1062]

Ehsan,
There is no easy way to do this, but what I would suggest is connect two wires to the cap. Connect your leads to the meter to the ends of these wires. Then disconnect the leads and short the two wires together to discharge the cap and reconnect the leads to the meters. You want to short the wires together rather than shorting across the aluminum terminals of the cap or they will eventually burn up. I have no idea how shorting will affect the meters, so I wouldn't recommend leaving them attached.

I think if you read back through Matt's posts he said you might not get above 25 volts with only two batteries. I don't remember the post number for that, but I know it is something he has talked about and he might have even said something about how to get around it.

I will be back to working on this in the next couple days. Have had a couple other more pressing projects. The door down to my basement kingdom finally rotted away from the hinges and collapsed. (It's an outside entrance like a storm shelter) and I have been tearing out the framework and replacing it. Installing a new door and doing some cement patch work, so haven't gotten much done on this project. Both this and my 3BGS are just sitting there driving me crazy. And I had to use a table saw to cut boards. NOT my favorite thing to do!! I was thinking about Matt the whole time.

Best of luck.

Dave

Thank you Dave that help much I will try to find that post of Matt and read it cearfully.
I hope you will be back for the both projects and good luck .

here is the second video:

scalar charger running part 2 - YouTube



Ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

Dave this is Matt's post :

The point of winding a transformer is to minimize the air space. So try to fill it up with copper. Litzing it will not do that unless you use a very small wire.

No bad Battery. I would put 2-4 good batteries of the same type you would use in the serial portion. This should leave you with some charged batteries if the serial drop to much. Even with one batt it should create a slight resonant's across the windings and the load that will help in the long run.

This thing will not run a huge load either. Thats not the point. We just want to run a small moderate load and maintain charge in the primary batteries for as long as we can. If your batteries are 100 amp hour you will not run more than 5 amp in the load portion.
It will be somewhat of a balancing act. The primary batteries will drop some and hold. If they continue to drop you can lighten the load or adjust the frequency. As the frequencies get charted we will start to increase the load.

If it rains tomorrow I will have time to get mine together (All I need is together just need a little wiring) to start exploring frequency issues. I am hoping I can cover the frequencies needed with the stamp but in case We might have to go with a faster solution. Not sure yet.

It will be a neat thing though have no doubt. I have already seen what this thing will do in pieces of other circuits.

Cheers
Matt

He said we can use 2 or 4 batteries but he didn't said that we should connect 4 batteries in series to get 48v I think he said that because during the long run if the primeries drop much then we have agood bank of batteries to maintain the presses go untill the system compensate the charge back to the primaries.
The question now how to get 48v-52v charge to the cap?
I hope Matt can give us ahand as he always did.

Ehsan

[Matthew Jones]

The problem, when you charge a battery is you go from 24 volt to 12 volt. That leaves 12 volt across the primary wire. If you double the wire your going to get something like 22 volt+. But thats not enough.

So the solution is to take out one cap and use 4 wire from the transformer.

But first if you have the parts try to use a full bridge rectifier instead of 1 diode going to the cap.

The one diode might be letting the negative portion of the spike onto the positive pole of the capacitor, Maybe not sure.

But you have it. You see the spikes. They travel at the same time both positive and negative.

Now is the hard part grabbing the power and making it useful immediatly.

But its coming you'll see.

You might also make the pulse bigger than 10. You can try 50, 100, ect.

Your getting there though good work.


Matt

[ehsanco1062]

The problem, when you charge a battery is you go from 24 volt to 12 volt. That leaves 12 volt across the primary wire. If you double the wire your going to get something like 22 volt+. But thats not enough.

So the solution is to take out one cap and use 4 wire from the transformer.

But first if you have the parts try to use a full bridge rectifier instead of 1 diode going to the cap.

The one diode might be letting the negative portion of the spike onto the positive pole of the capacitor, Maybe not sure.

But you have it. You see the spikes. They travel at the same time both positive and negative.

Now is the hard part grabbing the power and making it useful immediatly.

But its coming you'll see.

You might also make the pulse bigger than 10. You can try 50, 100, ect.

Your getting there though good work.


Matt

Hi Matt

I don't have FWBR that can Handel 400v 15A
And if I order it it will take more than 10 days ,I have more than 10 pices of FWBR but it can handel only 4A and maybe 2 pices 6A.
So the next step is to remove C2 and D4 and connect the wire that goes from L7to D4 with the wire that came from L5 to D2 ,and connect the wire from L8 to the wire that came from L6 to the negative side of C1.and did the run and see the result or what?
When I will get FWBR then I will remove D2 also and connect the wires that goes to D2 and the negative side of C1 to FWBR and the output of the FWBR go to the cap C1 is that correct ?
And if you have another instruction or suggestion please inform me.
I tried pulses up to 600

Ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

Hi Matt

I am still waiting for your instruction , I will not make a move untill you will say its ok I don't want to blow things here in the apartment .

Ehsan