3 Battery Generating System

[Turion]

Rydan,

Glad you are giving this a shot. If I understood what you posted, you connected the motor between the positives and connected the lights between the two negatives? With a setup like that you can probably get extra energy out of the setup for about 20-30 minutes at a time, then will have to drain batt three, let the batteries rest for 20-30 minutes, and start over again.

If the motor won't run when you connect the setup up, that is normal. It usually takes about 15 minutes for the motor to come on. You MIGHT be able to get it to run by spinning it by hand. OR, if you connect another small motor directly to battery three, that will pull current through the system. Once the setup is running, disconnect the motor that is connected directly to battery three.

Good luck and thanks for the post! Wish there were more people messing with this.

Dave

[Rydan]

re: 3 batt system

Turion, Correct, i did connect the led strip between the negatives.

I have also since removed the motor connection from the positives, as I could never get itworking.

I did notice however, that just leaving the led strip connected i will stay lit for hours quite brighly. I think for now the most i have left it on i 4 hours and still charging, though slowly. i found that using anything rechargeable in battery department or using a load with too much amp draw, seems to negate this effect.

still running my light as I type this. was thinking voltage has more say in the ouput potential, as only running 12 strip from about 9v, while not optimal, it dosen't seem to be taxing any charge at all, in fact increasing charge across all batteries.

I only really wanted to see if i could put together a portable highly effecient camping light as a proof of concept.

anyways, lots more to this than meets the eye. will keep tinkering.

[Turion]

Is your motor brushless? Brushless motors don't seem to work, although it should STILL start and run...just won't give you the charging effect. You will get a better charging effect using the motor, and can draw out more power. The two suggestions I gave you should work.

Also, I have found that the better the charge on my primary batteries when I begin, the more power I can pull out of the system...probably because of the potential difference between the primaries and the bad battery. With UFO's motor, that I am working with now, I cannot even get it to start and run unless my primaries are max charged. Then they go up in voltage above what the charger was able to put in them.

I am glad you are getting positive results. And you are right, there is way more to this than meets the eye and we haven't begun to even explore the potential of this setup. It doesn't HAVE to run down the primaries if you are careful and don't try to "power the world" on two tiny batteries. The problem with most people is they want, want, want, and when this setup doesn't give them all the power in the world, they give up and move on. They need to realize there is something here and we need to figure out what is happening and HOW so we can scale it up.

Keep up the excellent work. There are people working on this who aren't posting here, although I hear from them time to time by e-mail, and every bit of new data helps.

Dave

[ewizard]

Turion, just saw your post mentioning grounding this setup. Because of the unknowns in this type of electrical power that is being generated may I suggest that you stick to grounding only on water pipes (which would normally be a better ground anyway) and forget any thought of connecting to gas pipes. We don't want to read about any explosions in your neighborhood.

[Turion]

LOL
As many mistakes as I have made in building things, using a gas line as a ground would not ever be one of them. I promise. I am NOT crazy!

Dave

[Turion]

Ran another test today. I ran the UFO motor with a 25 watt load for an hour, and the batteries were where they started without putting any kind of a load on the motor. I am letting them rest now, to see how high they climb, and then will start the test over again with a 50 watt load for an hour. I am taking video at the beginning and end of these runs, but not letting the camera run for an hour, since that is really a waste. But there's no use posting all this on Youtube since everybody knows what the setup is.

Dave

[Sanskara316]

Hello Turion
Wow, I think It's finally coming together, I think maybe, Ufo Politics Circuit, 555 timer oscillator and the coil and diodes works the same as 3bgs set up, The motor acts like the oscillator pulsing dc to the Bad Battery, In turn the Bad batter Acts like the coil with reverse diodes, the bad battery is connected in reverse and has capacitance, like the coil, so I think since the bad battery is reversed, radiant energy if flowing from there supplying the load. and now with the UFO machine its works even better. I'm gonna try to do this setup again with the UFO's machine, I've already converted the burned 12 volt batteries Thanks to UFO I'm able to use it again. Keep it up, I can already smell your success

[Turion]

Folks should drag out some batteries and some motors and give this a shot. Some interesting developments in the last couple days. Don't wanta spill the beans before we have tested everything and have something anyone can replicate with off the shelf part, but it's here folks. You just gotta take the time to find it.

Dave

[penno64]

Great work

Come on Dave, spill the beans


Penno

[ehsanco1062]

Ok Dave
let's here the good news in details, we have been waiting for this for along time

Ehsan

[Turion]

YOU'VE been waiting for a long time! LOL. I have been working on this silly thing for five years now.

OK, here's what we THINK. In my original setup, I had batteries that were marked "Sealed Lead Acid", so it was my assumption that I was using sealed lead acid batteries. Logical, right? And I have been saying "use lead acid batteries ONLY." And I have been using lead acid batteries "only". Deep cycle marine batteries to be exact. Well I was testing UFO's motor using some small 18 amp hour batteries because they are much faster to charge up. I got the thing working with UFO's motor. If you watched the video, you saw the batteries climb several tenths of a volt in just a few minutes while under LOAD. After I shut the system down they climbed even higher and it was NOT a fluff charge because when I started my next run, they held that voltage under load, and charged up even HIGHER. But I was using the same kind of 18 amp hour batteries I used on my original experiment. Matt saw the video and pointed out to me that the battery in the third position is really an AGM battery, which contains glass. When I told him that was the same kind of battery I used in my original setup, he found a bad AGM battery and tried running it with a 7 watt load, and it was charging the primaries under load also. Using a STANDARD motor. His battery has a short in it, so he was having problems with it, but it still was charging the primaries.

I think I am getting better results with UFO's motor, but that remains to be seen. Until Matt has a battery without a short in it, it will be hard to compare. The important thing is, it works with an AGM "bad battery" in the third position and a standard motor. We think a pulsed motor would be even BETTER because of the longer off cycle. My UFO modified motor works great.

What we are working on now is a process to "Kill" a perfectly good AGM battery to get it to the state we need it to be in for it to work in this system in the third position. We need a process that works every time, and it is going to be expensive buying AGM batteries just to KILL them for this testing, so any of you who wanta participate, feel free. The problem is, we need to do it with BRAND NEW batteries and develop steps that are replicable. These are Werker AGM batteries. 18 amp hour. Discharging them down to nothing, freezing them for so many hours...whatever it takes to dry them up so that they die. In the video I post, I am using two 18 amp hour batteries and my "bad" battery is a 2.5 amp hour Werker battery, so it doesn't HAVE to be an 18 amp hour battery.

Dave

[Matthew Jones]

I am starting this weekend going to kill a good battery and see what happens.
The battery I had worked but it has short and when the short is engaged the process does not work. I can bang it around a bit and all of sudden it starts to work.

I suspect the Dead AGM batt becomes some sort of Inductively based Semi Conductors that flips the polarity of the power thats feed to it. But that only works on a modulation or pulse. So thats what makes the motor necessary. I think a modulation is not as good as a pulse.
It also has to be done on a slow bases 500 to 600 hertz. Thats the average speed of the motor.

I have also tested Buck circiuts tied to LED bulbs. And they are working to point.

We'll know more soon. Its important to us that if you make an investment into an experiment we need to give the best info we can come up with so your not having failing result. Thats why nothing has been posted for while.

I believe myself any AGM battery will work. So anyone can try if they can find an AGM. Just put a load on it till its dead and hold it down for a couple of days then setup a a basic circuit as outlined in the beginning of this thread.

Matt

[Turion]

Matt's thinking is that the glass and lead are working in union to form that semiconductor, which is why the AGM battery is essential.

[ewizard]

Nice work guys. Sounds like you may be on to the secret of the dead battery. Assuming it is acting like a semiconductor and that sounds very reasonable I wonder of some sort of very heavy duty diode or diodes could replace it? Since the dead battery has just two connections I would assume it acts as a diode(s) and possible with some capacitance also involved. Just some thoughts...

[Matthew Jones]

Nice work guys. Sounds like you may be on to the secret of the dead battery. Assuming it is acting like a semiconductor and that sounds very reasonable I wonder of some sort of very heavy duty diode or diodes could replace it? Since the dead battery has just two connections I would assume it acts as a diode(s) and possible with some capacitance also involved. Just some thoughts...

No cause what is happening in the Voltage and current are being dumped on the positive plate and charging them with a positive voltage. The at the same time the ground plate is also forming a potential difference in the negative and this in turn flows back to the battery at lower potential than 0 which is on the battery ground side. So your charging via the ground and discharging via the hot. But somewhere between the plates in glass material you have formed another layer which in turn acts as a 0 volt point.

The motor steps in and helps because of the Boost effect from the coils. You put 12 volt 1 amp into the motor and out comes 18 volt .6 amp. But you cannot see that unless you run between 2 potentials (IE a TS). Then you have alot of environmental interaction in the motor, which gives you either more voltage or amperage.
Since its all DC everything is just traveling a circle like it should be but what comes out of the Dead AGM is a little more than what comes out of the battery.

Thats the active Theory for the moment anyway.

Matt