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  • john00287
    replied
    Hi everybody. I'm here in PR on vacation and had time to read through this thread from the beginning. I decided when I get back on Saturday I will order the motor and batteries and start a replication. I have one question. In the MY1016 PDF it says to wind 50 turns on the top , 50 next and 50 the last. On Matt's videos he says to wind 40 turns on the first and 30 on the other two. Which is recommended? Thanks Dave and wantomake and everybody for sharing your work here! I can't wait to start! I will be posting my work when I get the parts. Thanks again!

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    Updated build list

    Originally posted by wantomake View Post
    Got some of the materials today.
    4- 3/4" x 24" x 24" plywood pieces leftover from project at mom's home
    3- 1/4" x 18" x 24" acrylic to use as top of generator and (2)spool holders
    8 to 10 - brass bolts 4" long and nuts, washers
    1- 1/2" x 3' steel rod or threaded rod for rotor shaft
    1- pvc 8' pipe for bracing size not decided
    wood glue
    3 1/2" wood drill bit used to bore holes for spools
    Will be using oak wood or 1" plywood for rotor.

    Also will need larger My1020 scooter motor.
    I already have a few 3" spools with 3/4" in core center.

    Anybody is welcome to join and build with us.

    My present generator will only run the shop lights and the system even in cold temps 35 f or lower. I only use it when I'm in the shop. But when balanced low and high sides, it will not lose voltage even after sundown. During daylight hours the solar charges the system battery bank. When I turn on the 3BGS the solar is turned off because it overloads the inverter and it shuts off. It's not much but enough to meet my needs in the shop.

    That's why we trying to build Dave's modified generator to get more wattage and do more work.

    wantomake
    To All future builders,
    I just updated the parts list for the larger generator build. It will be a slow build this week with all that is happening- life, part time job, time for grandchildren, you understand.

    I want to post videos and pictures here as I progress so those that want to really be able to just build and see that FE with your own hands and thoughts is possible.

    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    @BroMikey - your comment on Matt's Motor mod being simpler than electronics - I'd like to add one thing, which has been discussed in depth in a lot of old Bedini related topics is that the "radiant energy" manifests the best with mechanical switching. John Bedini's best self-runner as far as the SG's go was always with mechanical switching. The only electronic switch that I know of that mimics a truly open mechanical switch is Paul Babcock's switching method. When it is off, it is literally disconnected from the circuit unlike simple transistors, etc. So that is the extra benefit that gives better results or at least "should."
    I did see John K. do his SSG with a homemade commutator claiming it
    was self running. On Paul B. I think a Thyristor driver has always been
    a complex and proprietary circuit for decades as it controls timing on the
    opening of the gate plus close timing. Paul uses two kinds of circuits to
    get his unidirectional pulses.

    As we have heard when the right circumstance has been created the losses
    will be far exceeded, this means using 2 ultra fast diodes one behind the
    other with what we generally consider to be a waste, is needed for cause
    and effect.

    This is as far as I have gotten on this subject and could be off by a mile.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-09-2018, 08:00 AM.

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  • wantomake
    replied
    Good to see

    Thanks Aaron,
    It's good to see you here building this motor. It does make a great prime mover as I'm using it and love the low amp usage.

    I like the idea to put videos of building for others to follow on this replication.

    I'm currently gathering parts and special tools to build the larger generator Turion is using. He is helping me as I plan out the build and trying to keep it simple and low cost but good supply of energy to work with.

    Thanks for the link to Matthew's videos. I thought I had already subscribed to his channel. But I did and gave him some thumbs up.

    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • Aaron
    replied
    Thanks Wantomake

    Originally posted by wantomake View Post
    Aaron,
    That looks correct to me. I asked Matt by email if any questions. He and Dave have helped me alot. At 63 I can be a pesky elementary student.

    The biggest challenge has been the balancing of the rotor. As you can tell by the noisy videos.
    Look forward to your build and any ideas we may have overlooked.

    wantomake
    Thanks wantomake,

    I have multiple related links to the 3 battery topic here: Another Self Running System - A & P Electronic Media

    From that page, I have: "And then study Matthew Jones’ videos on how to modify a scooter motor for the project: https://www.youtube.com/user/mjones7947/videos There are 8 relevant videos there so subscribe to his channel and give his videos a thumbs up to show your appreciation for his sharing!"

    I do have Matt's email but also want to post this here for other people's benefit that are new to this topic. It's good to get your open validation since your successful build is being highlighted and that's imporant. I've referred a lot of people to this thread and to Matt's videos but am also trying to encourage the conversations that is focused on the builds.

    I'll post a video of my motor rewind project, which is one of five projects I have on the benches right now. Thankfully, this is very related to the Kromrey project as the motor rewind should work perfect as the prime mover.

    @BroMikey - your comment on Matt's Motor mod being simpler than electronics - I'd like to add one thing, which has been discussed in depth in a lot of old Bedini related topics is that the "radiant energy" manifests the best with mechanical switching. John Bedini's best self-runner as far as the SG's go was always with mechanical switching. The only electronic switch that I know of that mimics a truly open mechanical switch is Paul Babcock's switching method. When it is off, it is literally disconnected from the circuit unlike simple transistors, etc. So that is the extra benefit that gives better results or at least "should."

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    video location?

    Sorry Aaron,
    I tried to find the location of the videos Matthew Jones made for building the modified Matt motor. Wanted to paste the links here.

    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    Looks right

    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    Thanks for the feedback.

    Actually, trifilar applies to your winding method as well. If 3 wires are wound together around a core, by definition it's trifilar - just paralleled.

    So this is how you wound your coil sounds like - with the correct number of turns of course - is that correct? And 3 strands together like this actually wound 40/30/30 all together?



    Motors finally arrived - went to my friend's shop to use a dremel and just wound up using snips and needle nose - took about 10-15 minutes to remove windings from one motor. I'll deal with the other motor later to wire it up as a generator. I still have to remove the wire guards.

    Does this picture match your understanding of the motor mod?



    If I get time in the next day or two, I'll get the motor wound and finished off and will post the results.
    Aaron,
    That looks correct to me. I asked Matt by email if any questions. He and Dave have helped me alot. At 63 I can be a pesky elementary student.

    The biggest challenge has been the balancing of the rotor. As you can tell by the noisy videos.
    Look forward to your build and any ideas we may have overlooked.

    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Thoughts

    Don’t rant, don’t rave, don’t fight, just build..
    Let these pages be filled with descriptions, designs and data, not philosophy opinion and theory.

    There has been enough of that over the last 8 years and Lord knows I have done my fair share of all of that. Hopefully I have learned something. And that is to focus on the work. Everything else is a waste of everyone’s time.

    Y’all should buy stock in Razor Scooter Motor companies and then spread the word. :-)

    Wantomake built the very setup we recommended in the Basic Free Energy Device thread, and then he focused on the little things that all helped improve his system. The correct kinds of wires, equal lengths to all the batteries, MORE batteries in parallel to easier accept charging and discharging without it being such a “shock” to the individual Battery. Better timing on his motor. All things that make what he has more robust and stable. I think Matt and I have been willing to give him some hints here and there outside of these pages because he is building and seems determined, and because he listens.

    Now he is to the point where the best way to get more out of the system is to build the generator that can be run by the motor. Is that the last step to a perfect setup? Hardly. But until you go through everything Wantomake has gone through, until you have built what HE has built and showed it here, I doubt you’ll get a pm or email from Matt or I showing you the next step. Because until you have come to understand this system, to be able to tune it to run based on the load, you are not ready for that next step. And make NO mistake, there has to be tuning done on this and until you understand why and HOW to tune it, you will never be successful. A bigger system like Wantomake has is MUCH easier to keep in tune. A small one more difficult. One with small batteries...GOOD LUCK!

    If there is one thing I hope you get out of these pages it is this. Every time you have a higher potential and a lower potential, just like water piled up behind a dam, when it moves to the lower potential, use it to do work. The output of your generator coils is a higher potential than you have in your batteries. Once it is running. What work might you do with that on its way to charging up all your batteries and storing it up to run loads on your inverter(s)?

    When you HAVE a big enough generator running, YOU decide how big a load you want to run, and then design a system that will do it. These are the tools you will have in your pocket if you build this system correctly and learn what it has to teach. Or not. We each have to follow our own path.

    And if you intend to build a generator, here is some advice from someone who spent a LOT of money building generators.
    1.Magnets are cheaper than coils. So BIG rotors with lots of magnets
    2.Bigger magnets are not always better. Cores have a saturation point. As an example, compare the cost of 2” neos to 1” neos. I have built rotors with BOTH using the same coils. 1” neos produce a little over 75% of the power that 2” neos do. But I can put TWICE as many on the rotor, so I get 150% of the output of the 2” Magnets and even at double the number of magnets I save money because of the COST of the big magnets.
    3 NEVER have the same number of magnets as coils. The magnetic drag will destroy your motor.

    Get yourself a couple centrifugal clutches so you can get your motor and then your flywheel up to speed BEFORE engaging your generator.

    Razor scooter makes a 48 volt MY 1020 motor that you might want to invest in eventually. It is 20 sections instead of 16, but the same winding pattern works except instead of three sections to the coil on each side of the motor, you have four. They ARE more expensive though. Probably more than double the price of the MY1016, which is why we didn’t recommend them right off. Get a working system first.

    As usual, it is the middle of the night and I am doing this on my phone, so it’s a pain to edit for spelling and grammar. Old English teacher habits die hard, but old age trumps that every time.

    My last bit of wisdom. Let the BUILD you show here do ALL your talking. Don’t show us every hole you drill in a rotor. Nobody cares unless you have a new and better way of doing it. Don’t talk about what you are GOING to do or THINK you can do. BUILD it and THEN show it and talk about it. The rest is a waste of everyone’s time. I couldn’t say any of this if Wantomake had NOT shown a working system, which I refused to do. I always felt like people need to build it to be rewarded. I still do. I have no room in my life for people who just talk. Only for those that DO

    And just in case you were wondering if THIS has gotten you to the last step in the learning process for the 3 Battery System, the answer is a resounding “NO!!!!!” All we have shown here so far is still elementary school. Well, if you include the generator, I guess you are up to maybe middle school. Perfecting THAT is high school. And then it’s off to college and grad school. There is so much more to learn from this than you can even imagine, and so much more it is capable of showing you about how electricity can REALLY be used without being consumed. Just keep building and showing your work, and you will get there.

    By the way, I HAVE RECORDED A VIDEO of everything I know about this stuff onto USB sticks that have been distributed far and wide. All sent by pony express to folks who have no interest in this stuff. Some friends, some family, some you couldn’t trace back to me if you hired private detectives who worked on it all their lives. This isn’t going away. They all know about this forum and how to post here using MY account and MY password if it comes to that.
    Last edited by Turion; 01-08-2018, 12:05 PM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied

    The basic design uses a scooter motor that could be pulsed electrically,
    and was, so we do know other strategies exist in the mind of the inventor.
    Instead the man went out of his way to make a modification to a dc
    permanent magnet motor that permits any and everyone to enjoy this
    altered motor without being a electronics master by mechanically
    making it switch all by it's lonesome.

    I would say that speaks volumes in itself. It is like handing the answer
    to everyone on a silver platter. No one need to build any fancy pulsing
    circuits, it is all self contained,"here it is take it and win". Now that is what
    it is, it is a gift to all because anyone can work it.

    It solves so many problems in switching that a regular guy might not
    be able to substitute electronically such as the abrupt and powerful
    switching all done like a breeze by the brushes when connected in the
    right order on the commutator that controls on time without a care
    in the world. A true Tesla design.









    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-08-2018, 10:54 AM.

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  • Aaron
    replied
    3 battery motor mod

    Originally posted by wantomake View Post
    Aaron,
    Sorry I shouldn't have used the term trifilar. It was three wires run parallel and connected together at each end. Trifilar means connected where one wire ends to another that begins. My bad. I followed Matt's videos very closely and got close to the amperage he reported.

    Sorry and hope this clears it up. There is only enough room on the rotor for the 100 feet of three wires. Also did the 40,30,30 turns on each side.

    wantomake
    Thanks for the feedback.

    Actually, trifilar applies to your winding method as well. If 3 wires are wound together around a core, by definition it's trifilar - just paralleled.

    So this is how you wound your coil sounds like - with the correct number of turns of course - is that correct? And 3 strands together like this actually wound 40/30/30 all together?



    Motors finally arrived - went to my friend's shop to use a dremel and just wound up using snips and needle nose - took about 10-15 minutes to remove windings from one motor. I'll deal with the other motor later to wire it up as a generator. I still have to remove the wire guards.

    Does this picture match your understanding of the motor mod?



    If I get time in the next day or two, I'll get the motor wound and finished off and will post the results.

    Leave a comment:


  • Turion
    replied
    Time Line

    You’re talking about a blog post that was made in 2011 is if it were made TODAY. Just to make it clear, we did NOT quit sharing at that time. We came HERE on the forum and shared enough info that Wantomake has a system that shows exactly what we said was possible when we started the Basic Free Energy Device thread. We have built systems that could have demonstrated the same stuff, and more, but wanted people to build it themselves. Wantomake did that, and chose to show it, So NOW you have a working example as well as the basics that are all out there for anyone to begin with, and eventually get to where we are NOW. We don’t feel like we owe anyone anything. We will follow our path and each of you is free to follow yours. Our sincere best wishes and best of luck. But you know what, even now that a working example has been shown, something people whined at us for YEARS to do, how many people are actually building it and letting it teach you about these systems? If all those people have shown their build HERE, the answer to that question is pathetic.
    Last edited by Turion; 01-08-2018, 12:04 AM.

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  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    Hi mike, was only referring to patents and ownership in general, that is all a trap.
    No need to respond, believe as you wish.
    Even though, the patent system itself has already been revealed to be a registration service for those that claim to be lords over humanity.
    So when one gets a patent, one is essentially gifting it and all rights one thinks they are gaining, over to these would be lords.
    I'm not questioning anyones sharing here, just bringing awareness.
    And if one is aware, why would one willingly contract away ones ownership rights, since that is what i assume is intended, to keep those rights, to then sell a product, without another already having claim to it, which by default, the patent registration process takes that away from patent applicant.
    Just a FYI, carry on.
    peace love light
    Edit: i forgot that was from 2011 dave, sorry, anyway, still good info for people to be aware of.
    Last edited by SkyWatcher; 01-08-2018, 02:38 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Let me give you my progress.

    First of all the best defense is a good offense. Builders must hold a tool
    in one hand and a sword in the other hand to keep this work alive.
    Sound familiar? A tool in one hand to further the building progress and
    weapon in the other hand to keep others from pulling a Luc on us.

    I have cut some more copper bands around 8" long (16 of them) then
    colored them, coated them and now drying. These copper straps took
    time to make. My Mod Motor, MY batteries, MY boosters, My, My, My I
    know but this is MY research. When I put my hand to something, my time,
    my effort, my hard earned money, it is mine. Nobody can do it for me.

    The new straps have proven to be a noticeable improvement on battery
    #3 so the next step is to finish the run batteries the same way so when
    my system gets loaded within the c/20 range of no more than 3.5amps
    it will benefit.

    We can't rush into all the following stages without getting the root proper.

    The Mod Motor is an energizer. This means it back pulses the run batteries
    and foreword pulses the charge batteries as can be witnessed by the
    fluctuating differential. I have things to say.


    Fluctuating differential.

    With both boosters doing their job and Mod Motor running between
    positives the meter shows voltage as follows. Before I give you the readings
    let me say when I connect a conventional scooter motor in the same
    slot the meter reading exactly only one number.

    When I run the Modified Motor the reading should be a set amount and
    is mathematically but the meter shows plus and minus values ranging
    from +2v to -2v to plus +200v to -200v to off the scale plus and minus
    and the process rapidly continues. It is fun to watch.

    I realize now why the equal length copper straps impact the system so
    radically as one battery is getting a better direct connection to the
    special energy generated in the double north pole modified motor energizer.

    Just setting up battery 3 with a set of equal length copper straps caused
    so much more visible activity seen in the differential it has put me in a state
    of shock. I mean I sat here with the system traditional bus bar connected
    for weeks watching the meters and the fluctuation reading were as follows.

    Poor battery Connecting Leads.

    At the start I used the standard bus bar format or battery rails that
    could each handle 100 amps never once thinking about the unequal
    distance the energy would have to travel to get to each battery. I see
    now we want unison.

    The differential reading with standard battery leads 13.2v up to 13.8v
    then back down to 13.6v and maybe a 14v once in a while but never
    showing above or below those figures, and I thought that was monumental.


    Anyhow i am back. The meters are computerized and they continually
    search for and average voltage reading of which they are totally confused.
    These super high spikes send the meter in a blank status. Meters draw
    a blank on this energy.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-07-2018, 09:43 PM.

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  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    patents, lol, one can not serve two masters.
    peace love light

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  • GlenWV
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion View Post
    I ran across this, and thought I would share it. If you notice the date of this blog post, you will see that it dates WAY back. The first one there will also see that I am the only one who has ever viewed it. Guess I'll never be a famous blogger.

    https://undergroundmotors.blogspot.com

    Good show!

    glenWV

    Leave a comment:

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