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Greetings all,
I stumbled upon something by accident.
THE STORY:
- A circuit similar to one first posted by John Bedini some years ago. Two charged batteries, one discharged battery and a load. I used a 12 volt DC motor as the load. We had a battery that would take, but not hold a charge for our third battery.
+ A circuit similar to one first posted by John Bedini some years ago. Two charged batteries, one discharged battery and a load. I used a 12 volt DC motor as the load. We had a battery that would take, but not hold a charge for our third battery.
THIS IS CRITICAL TO YOUR SUCCESS!!!!! IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A BATTERY THAT WILL TAKE A CHARGE BUT NOT HOLD IT IN YOUR THIRD POSITION YOU WILL NOT GET THE SAME RESULTS I HAVE GOTTEN. You MAY get some good results, but you will probably NOT get AMAZING results. ARE WE CLEAR ABOUT THAT???!!!
When we first threw the switch, nothing happened. Ten to fifteen minutes later the motor suddenly started up. The voltage on the bad battery would jump to 24 volts. It would go down to about 18 volts, and then the motor would slowly start and begin to run, speeding up gradually. The voltage would continue to drop down to around nine volts, at which time the motor would suddenly shut off and the voltage would immediately jump back to 24 volts and the cycle would repeat.
To try and get the system to keep from shutting off, I ASSUMED I needed to keep the battery in the third position from becoming charged, so I began to hook loads to it. I used an inverter and powered all kinds of loads, balancing the load on battery three by putting an additional LOAD ON THE MOTOR. It did amazing things. Then it quit, or I killed it somehow by taking it apart.
I posted a whole bunch of stuff at OU (David Bowling's Continuous Charging Device) Recently, MANY PEOPLE have had success. Hence this post.
CAUTION: You build AT YOUR OWN RISK. This system uses lead acid batteries which can EXPLODE. Take all proper precautions.
REQUIREMENTS:
1. Battery 3 should be a "bad" battery. One that doesn't want to hold more than 4 to 6 volts.
2. Battery 3 must ba a battery that WILL NOT ALLOW THE MOTOR TO START WHEN FIRST CONNECTED.
3. ALL 3 batteries MUST be the same type, i.e. flooded lead acid or AGM
4. You need a LOAD ON THE MOTOR for this to work
5. A PULSE motor works better than a standard motor, but a standard motor WILL work. You will get AMAZING TORQUE AND SPEED OUT OF A STANDARD MOTOR
6. Switching the connections on the motor will produce better results in one direction of motor rotation over the other.
PROCESS:
FOLLOW THESE STEPS EXACTLY OR DON’T BOTHER ASKING FOR HELP!
1. Connect up the setup
2. When you flip the switch the very first time, the motor SHOULD NOT START immediately. (If it does, you do not have a battery that will work in the third position so DON'T WASTE your time!
3. In a few minutes the motor will start running. If the motor hasn’t started within 24 hours, this battery will not work in the third position BUT is perfect for our battery modification experiments.
4. If, however, you can spin the motor by hand and the system begins to work, you can use this battery.
If you have an analogue meter on battery 3, you should see the voltage jump (when the switch is thrown) to 24+ volts. It will go slowly down to around 18 volts, and THEN the motor will start. The voltage will go down to around 12 or 13 volts, and stabilize. IF the voltage continues to go down to around 9 volts, and the motor shuts off, the voltage jumps back up to 24 volts and the cycle repeats, you probably have the perfect battery.
This experiment is to make sure you have the RIGHT kind of battery. At this point you need to stop and let your primary batteries sit and rest overnight, recharging them if they don't recover. You also need to drain battery three by connecting a light to it and leaving it overnight.
AFTER DOING ALL THAT AND LETTING THE SYSTEM REST OVERNIGHT, reconnect everything. Flip the switch to start the system and you will find that this time the motor starts IMMEDIATELY. Shut it off, add a small load like an auto dome light or even an auto headlight...something to keep battery three from charging. I only had you start it so you could ponder the following.
So…..if the delay in starting you saw yesterday were because of a difference in potential between the set of two batteries in series and the single battery, when could that potential possibly be GREATER than when you have just charged the two main batteries while at the same time, discharging the bad battery all night long with a bulb on it?
If the delay was because there was not enough juice in the bad battery, how could there possibly be LESS juice than there is right now, when you have drained the bad battery ALL NIGHT LONG. It should have NO juice. None. So you should be having to put some juice into the battery for the motor to start. It should take LONGER to start than it did yesterday, and yet the motor started immediately.
It is my belief that we are talking about some kind of magnetic alignment that takes place in a bad battery and continues as long as there is a load on the battery, and also lasts for a couple days after the load is removed. If you can let it sit for a couple days, hook it back into the system, flip the switch, and once again the motor will NOT start immediately.
Once you have the two batteries fully charged, the bad battery drained, and a small load connected between the terminals on battery 3, you are ready for the experimenting to really begin.
You must MATCH the load on the motor with a load on battery 3.
UNTIL THE LOADS ARE MATCHED YOU ARE DRAINING THE PRIMARIES. I use a bunch of small bulbs with switches to connect each one to battery three. Flip a switch to turn on one of these lights and the motor will immediately speed up. Let it run for five minutes. If the loads are matched, the motor will suddenly speed up AGAIN. When you are in this "zone", the speed and torque will be awesome. You can continue to add loads to battery three, but add a load, wait five minutes, add a load, wait five minutes. At some point the load will cause the motor to drop out of the "zone" Now you have two choices. Reduce the load on battery 3, or INCREASE the load on the motor to get it back in the zone.
We are NOT trying to build a device that will charge battery #3. We know we can do that....or use a Bedini charger which is probably more efficient, although a little more complicated.
We are, at a minimum, trying to get the use of the motor without the draw down on the primary batteries. This would involve the use of the energy produced by the motor to recharge those batteries.
But MORE than that. My original device ran loads off battery three that could not POSSIBLY have been run by the energy produced by the motor if it is only EQUAL to that provided to the motor by batteries one and two. It is my belief that battery three opens a "gate" to energy that comes in to charge the battery and as long as we put loads on battery three to PREVENT it from becoming charged, we get a WHOLE LOT of that energy.
If we balance the load on battery three and the load on the motor, there is NO drawdown on batteries one and two. BUT just because you load down battery three doesn’t mean it hasn’t reached a state where it wants to charge up. When that happens, the setup quits working, so it is NOT just a matter of putting loads on battery 3. Even with a perfectly balanced setup, this happens eventually with every battery 3 we have tried. WE need to understand what it takes to replicate my original or find a replacement. THAT IS OUR GOAL HERE.
Good Luck!
Dave Bowling
MOST CURRENT SCHEMATIC ON PG 78 "MODIFIED 3BGS" If you have read ALL of this post you COULD skip to pg 78 and pick up the latest info there.
Creative Commons — Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported — CC BY-SA 3.0
Creative Commons Legal Code
I stumbled upon something by accident.
THE STORY:
- A circuit similar to one first posted by John Bedini some years ago. Two charged batteries, one discharged battery and a load. I used a 12 volt DC motor as the load. We had a battery that would take, but not hold a charge for our third battery.
+ A circuit similar to one first posted by John Bedini some years ago. Two charged batteries, one discharged battery and a load. I used a 12 volt DC motor as the load. We had a battery that would take, but not hold a charge for our third battery.
THIS IS CRITICAL TO YOUR SUCCESS!!!!! IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A BATTERY THAT WILL TAKE A CHARGE BUT NOT HOLD IT IN YOUR THIRD POSITION YOU WILL NOT GET THE SAME RESULTS I HAVE GOTTEN. You MAY get some good results, but you will probably NOT get AMAZING results. ARE WE CLEAR ABOUT THAT???!!!
When we first threw the switch, nothing happened. Ten to fifteen minutes later the motor suddenly started up. The voltage on the bad battery would jump to 24 volts. It would go down to about 18 volts, and then the motor would slowly start and begin to run, speeding up gradually. The voltage would continue to drop down to around nine volts, at which time the motor would suddenly shut off and the voltage would immediately jump back to 24 volts and the cycle would repeat.
To try and get the system to keep from shutting off, I ASSUMED I needed to keep the battery in the third position from becoming charged, so I began to hook loads to it. I used an inverter and powered all kinds of loads, balancing the load on battery three by putting an additional LOAD ON THE MOTOR. It did amazing things. Then it quit, or I killed it somehow by taking it apart.
I posted a whole bunch of stuff at OU (David Bowling's Continuous Charging Device) Recently, MANY PEOPLE have had success. Hence this post.
CAUTION: You build AT YOUR OWN RISK. This system uses lead acid batteries which can EXPLODE. Take all proper precautions.
REQUIREMENTS:
1. Battery 3 should be a "bad" battery. One that doesn't want to hold more than 4 to 6 volts.
2. Battery 3 must ba a battery that WILL NOT ALLOW THE MOTOR TO START WHEN FIRST CONNECTED.
3. ALL 3 batteries MUST be the same type, i.e. flooded lead acid or AGM
4. You need a LOAD ON THE MOTOR for this to work
5. A PULSE motor works better than a standard motor, but a standard motor WILL work. You will get AMAZING TORQUE AND SPEED OUT OF A STANDARD MOTOR
6. Switching the connections on the motor will produce better results in one direction of motor rotation over the other.
PROCESS:
FOLLOW THESE STEPS EXACTLY OR DON’T BOTHER ASKING FOR HELP!
1. Connect up the setup
2. When you flip the switch the very first time, the motor SHOULD NOT START immediately. (If it does, you do not have a battery that will work in the third position so DON'T WASTE your time!
3. In a few minutes the motor will start running. If the motor hasn’t started within 24 hours, this battery will not work in the third position BUT is perfect for our battery modification experiments.
4. If, however, you can spin the motor by hand and the system begins to work, you can use this battery.
If you have an analogue meter on battery 3, you should see the voltage jump (when the switch is thrown) to 24+ volts. It will go slowly down to around 18 volts, and THEN the motor will start. The voltage will go down to around 12 or 13 volts, and stabilize. IF the voltage continues to go down to around 9 volts, and the motor shuts off, the voltage jumps back up to 24 volts and the cycle repeats, you probably have the perfect battery.
This experiment is to make sure you have the RIGHT kind of battery. At this point you need to stop and let your primary batteries sit and rest overnight, recharging them if they don't recover. You also need to drain battery three by connecting a light to it and leaving it overnight.
AFTER DOING ALL THAT AND LETTING THE SYSTEM REST OVERNIGHT, reconnect everything. Flip the switch to start the system and you will find that this time the motor starts IMMEDIATELY. Shut it off, add a small load like an auto dome light or even an auto headlight...something to keep battery three from charging. I only had you start it so you could ponder the following.
So…..if the delay in starting you saw yesterday were because of a difference in potential between the set of two batteries in series and the single battery, when could that potential possibly be GREATER than when you have just charged the two main batteries while at the same time, discharging the bad battery all night long with a bulb on it?
If the delay was because there was not enough juice in the bad battery, how could there possibly be LESS juice than there is right now, when you have drained the bad battery ALL NIGHT LONG. It should have NO juice. None. So you should be having to put some juice into the battery for the motor to start. It should take LONGER to start than it did yesterday, and yet the motor started immediately.
It is my belief that we are talking about some kind of magnetic alignment that takes place in a bad battery and continues as long as there is a load on the battery, and also lasts for a couple days after the load is removed. If you can let it sit for a couple days, hook it back into the system, flip the switch, and once again the motor will NOT start immediately.
Once you have the two batteries fully charged, the bad battery drained, and a small load connected between the terminals on battery 3, you are ready for the experimenting to really begin.
You must MATCH the load on the motor with a load on battery 3.
UNTIL THE LOADS ARE MATCHED YOU ARE DRAINING THE PRIMARIES. I use a bunch of small bulbs with switches to connect each one to battery three. Flip a switch to turn on one of these lights and the motor will immediately speed up. Let it run for five minutes. If the loads are matched, the motor will suddenly speed up AGAIN. When you are in this "zone", the speed and torque will be awesome. You can continue to add loads to battery three, but add a load, wait five minutes, add a load, wait five minutes. At some point the load will cause the motor to drop out of the "zone" Now you have two choices. Reduce the load on battery 3, or INCREASE the load on the motor to get it back in the zone.
We are NOT trying to build a device that will charge battery #3. We know we can do that....or use a Bedini charger which is probably more efficient, although a little more complicated.
We are, at a minimum, trying to get the use of the motor without the draw down on the primary batteries. This would involve the use of the energy produced by the motor to recharge those batteries.
But MORE than that. My original device ran loads off battery three that could not POSSIBLY have been run by the energy produced by the motor if it is only EQUAL to that provided to the motor by batteries one and two. It is my belief that battery three opens a "gate" to energy that comes in to charge the battery and as long as we put loads on battery three to PREVENT it from becoming charged, we get a WHOLE LOT of that energy.
If we balance the load on battery three and the load on the motor, there is NO drawdown on batteries one and two. BUT just because you load down battery three doesn’t mean it hasn’t reached a state where it wants to charge up. When that happens, the setup quits working, so it is NOT just a matter of putting loads on battery 3. Even with a perfectly balanced setup, this happens eventually with every battery 3 we have tried. WE need to understand what it takes to replicate my original or find a replacement. THAT IS OUR GOAL HERE.
Good Luck!
Dave Bowling
MOST CURRENT SCHEMATIC ON PG 78 "MODIFIED 3BGS" If you have read ALL of this post you COULD skip to pg 78 and pick up the latest info there.
Creative Commons — Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported — CC BY-SA 3.0
Creative Commons Legal Code
I hadn't planned on sharing it with the "masses" else I might have been a little more clear about what was going on wth it... It was originally just meant for a couple of people but then decided to share it with the group... I really didn't want to post anything until I had it really and completely working... which I do not yet.... 
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