3 Battery Generating System

[FRC]

gene gene

That is exactly what I did on my last trial. Had the motors been mounted better
it might have kept working. I just finished cutting a small piece of pipe which
I am going to try next using cable clamps instead of hose clamps. Thanks for
trying to help, I may have to try that again if this does not work this time.

George

[Turion]

FRC,
Are either one of your shafts threaded? Are they the same size?
Lowes has coupling nuts that are made to connect two threaded shafts. I screwed one of them on one shaft, and drilled it out to slide over the other shaft, which was bigger, then drilled a small hole and pinned it with a cotter pin where it slipped on the shaft. It worked great. It would also work if you drilled out BOTH sides of the coupling nut to fit two different shafts that are not threaded, and are NOT the same size, and drilled and pinned BOTH of them. It will work as long as the shafts aren't TOO different in size. A coupling nut looks just like a nut, but it is about three inches long, threaded on the inside.

Dave

[FRC]

Yes they are threaded and the same size. I cannot find any metal nuts that will
fit it. They are a wide type of thread.

Mt last attempt also screwed up. The hose and clamp method will work if I just
take the time to mount the motors securely on something.

George

[Turion]

There are only a couple different thread sizes standard for motors. What is the make and model. I'll figure it out. I can always weld a couple nuts together and mail them to you if I need to. It COULD be left handed threads, but I doubt it.
Dave

[FRC]

Dave

Sorry I do not know the make and model of it. They are made in China. There
is only a UPC sticker on it. I got them at Princess Auto in Canada Surplus for
$19.95 each. When I got my first one in Calgary they only had three left. But
they seem to get more in at other stores. They had lots of them when I bought
the last two of them in Victoria, B.C. before I came back here to Saskatchewan
in January. They are a good little motor, I would like to get a few more of them.
Here again is the video that kcarring posted on the Lockridge thread taking one
apart.

12volt DC motor - Bedini Mod? - YouTube

George

[LutherG]

I got my 4 motorcycle wet batteries and I put the acid inside. They are working and are beautiful batteries.

I also got some motors, big one and very small ones.

I built the system and have been testing for a few days now.

One thing I noticed tonight was that when you put a load on B3 while motor running, it increased the consumption of the current from B1+B2 by only 1ma (one mili-amp) the motor speed up substantially. The load was a nice LED board with 20 super bright LEDs that needs around 30 to 50ma to be fully lit.

They are fully lit as a load and I also measure the current going through them and it is around 35ma. The total current from B1+B2 before load was 36ma and after 37ma while I added a load to B3 of 35ma.

So, it is very clear on this rough test that Kirchorff law did not apply when B3 is a bad sulfated battery.

What I am saying again is this:

1 - Total current through system is 36ma (B1 + B2 + B3) . No load
2 - Total current through system with loaded added across B3 is 37ma.
3 - Total current through the load on B3 is 35ma. (Give or take 1 or 2 ma). It fluctuates a little bit.

So for an extra load on B1 + B2 of 1ma for same voltage, I gained 35ma on B3. Total voltage measurements are irrelevant since all are in series and B3 is dead to start with.

I cannot explained this run. It is very strange. I would think that adding a load to B3 like I did, it should add a load to B1+B2 of at least an equivalent division of the path. I cannot measure how much is going to B3 but I can see the voltage not raising while the load is on.

If the load is not on, I can see the voltage on B3 increasing to what I would assume is the 35ma that the load takes or even less since the resistance of B3 would be much higher than the LED board. My assumption. So when adding the load on B3 I would assume an decrease in current going to B3 and an increase in current through the load (LED board). But no substantial increase in total power consumption from B1 + B2 for a lower resistance on the path does not make any sense.

Fausto.

Hello Fausto and all,

I believe what you're seeing as the extra power is the relieving of the motor of some of its generated power. Any time a motor turns it is generating. As you relieve the motor of some of its generated power, the motor rises in RPM and in torque.

Some things I'd like to try is to put an AC capacitor between the 24-volt positive and the motor. Another one might be needed between the 24-volt negative and 12-volt negative...

Also, a potentiometer across the terminals of battery 3 would be nice to have as an adjustable bias control. If you look at battery 3 like its a vacuum tube, the positive pole is like the plate. The negative pole is like the cathode and the bias control acts like a grid or the base of a transistor... This bias, I believe exists in a battery that won't hold a charge because it dissipates that charge over time. In order to do that, there must be a way for the 2 poles to "see" each other...

Regards to all,

Luther

[clueless]

A Motor Question

I'd really like to try this experiment. I have enough batteries but I don't have a dc motor.
I do however; have a small 120 volt ac box fan that is rated 30 watts or 0.45
amps. Does anyone know if this motor can be used/ converted to dc? If I understand the equation correctly with 12 volts this motor will draw 2.5 amps, at 24 volts a little over 1 amp.
Is there anyway to get this motor to work?
Thanks
-Lyn

[gene gene]

George,
If you have access to lumber I might have a solution for your motor's mount (secure alinement problem). You will need 1-2x6 slightly longer than the two motors nose to nose with hose attached. You will also need 2-1x2's of about the same length. Now place the motors near the center line of the 2x6 and slide 1 of the 1x2's under both motors and screw down parallel to the edge of the 2x6. Now go around to the other side and do the same, but ever so slightly force the motors up off the 2x6, perhaps 1/4". Use a piece of shim to check gap at motor's ends and now screw down the second 1x2. A pilot hole for all screws in the 1x2's would ease assembly and also prevent splitting of wood. 1-1/2" sheet rock, or deck screws would be ideal. Now the motors if viewed from the end would be seen resting only on the corners of the 1x2's. A couple of ratchet straps would be perfect right now, wrapped around center of each motor and cinched down slightly crushing the corners of the 1x2's, hopefully creating a fairly well alined saddle for both motors. The hose should help with any slight misalignment like a love joy coupler.
Good Luck, Gene

[Zooty]

A theory if i may

I'd like to throw a theory out there based on what i have learnt over the years playing with bedini motors and various device that produce inductive spikes. I remember my first bedini wheel and what happened when i connected my first 12v "dead" battery. For the first 10 minutes the battery read 20+ volts across it and it slowly started to drop below the 12v mark where it would level off at 7 or 8 volts. Then it would slowly, and i mean slowly climb to 13v where it would not climb any more. If any of you have every stopped your experiment in the first minute where the voltage was very high like 20v or so and connected a load like a 12v bulb, the bulb would light super bright like is was gonna blow but drop very quickly almost like a flash and the battery would be dead back to square one. Applying the bedini charger would take it straight back to 20v again. This is repeatable and you never de-sulfate the battery. Trust me i have tried it. I believe the method turion has posted shows that a "dead" battery is very good at capturing radiant energy AS LONG AS YOU USE IT STRAIGHT AWAY otherwise your dead battery becomes a normal battery which does not show big over voltage on initial charging. Im sure i have not explained my theory very well. Take a bedini charger and charge a good battery that has 11.5v charge. You'll see the charge climb slowly. Take a dead sulfated battery and you'll see how high the voltage starts. If the voltage climbs rapidly when you start the charger then i believe this is the right type of dead battery to use.

[Joit]

Video
Batterie 2 Negative is my Reference to 0 Volt.
Probes are at Pos B1 and Pos B3. Motor has a Resistance from about 14 Ohm, the Bulb about 4 Ohm,
even when it shows 6 Ohm, the Pot is a 80 Ohm.

[Guruji]

Tesla switch like

Hi Turion today I tried again as you told us on your first posts and it seems that really there is something in this setup as you've said. My batteries were all flat and could not even run my little motor. When I did the setup and a 5w bulb load on battery3 the motor began running
I should experiment more on this and turn batteries too to see if I can get them charged.
Thanks for sharing.

[Turion]

Guruji,
Just follow the steps in post number one and you won't go wrong. We are learning more all the time. There is so much more to this than those simple little experiments in the first post show, but if you can learn to tune your loads to each other, you will see amazing things happen. I shard my initial experience with this setup, but haven't shared much else I have done. There's a reason for that. It isn't about what I can do with this, it's about what YOU can do with it. If I was running my house off the system would it really matter? First of all, most people would't believe that's possible, but even if it was and you couldn't replicate it, what good does that do YOU. None at all.

When you have played around with this (like I did) until you get a feel for it and begin to realize the potential, you won't mind spending the $ to go out and get a larger DC motor and some deep cell lead acid batteries. When you feel confident enough in the system to do that, you will see even more interesting results with larger motors.

Have some fun man!
Dave

[shylo]

HI all, I wish I had more time
To get in the zone; you have to get three bats to run the load ,hooked to the positives of bat1 ,and bat3..
Once the dc motor is running,...add a load to the 3b
Dc motor should increase??
Then wait 5mins , if it increasaes again ' your in the zone??
The worst that happens ,...I end up with a charged battery
shylo

[fathershand]

Larger Motor

Guruji,
Just follow the steps in post number one and you won't go wrong. We are learning more all the time. There is so much more to this than those simple little experiments in the first post show, but if you can learn to tune your loads to each other, you will see amazing things happen. I shard my initial experience with this setup, but haven't shared much else I have done. There's a reason for that. It isn't about what I can do with this, it's about what YOU can do with it. If I was running my house off the system would it really matter? First of all, most people would't believe that's possible, but even if it was and you couldn't replicate it, what good does that do YOU. None at all.

When you have played around with this (like I did) until you get a feel for it and begin to realize the potential, you won't mind spending the $ to go out and get a larger DC motor and some deep cell lead acid batteries. When you feel confident enough in the system to do that, you will see even more interesting results with larger motors.

Have some fun man!
Dave

Dave, what is your definition of "large motor'? Can you give some specs so that I can see if I can find one?

Thanks

[Turion]

fathershand,

here's the motor I have:
Motor Motenergy ME1002 10" Series Wound
48-144V VDC, 200 amps Continuous, 550 amps Peak 2 Minutes
25 hp Cont, 70.7 hp Peak @ 96 Volts
32 hp Cont, 88.4 hp Peak @ 120 Volts
38.6 hp Cont, 106 hp Peak @ 144 Volts

It's pretty expensive, around $1,200, but is big enough to power a medium size electric car, which is my goal with this whole project. I figured it was worth the investment to have what I wanted, so I could put it in a car at some point. You might not want to take that approach because a few people have burned out motors on this setup, and burning up an expensive motor is no fun!

But search and see if you can find an old forklift motor from a salvage yard. That would do the trick.

Dave