3 Battery Generating System

[Turion]

Any Brushed DC permanent magnet motor will work, HOWEVER, as some folks have seen, you can burn out a 12 volt DC motor if you are not careful, because some of the time you are running it off 24 volts or higher. I have been using a 110 volt DC motor and it has taken everything I have thrown at it, so I would recommend a higher voltage DC motor if you can find one. The higher the better.

Just to see if we're telling the truth and see it work? ANY PM DC motor. To build something that will eventually produce some power for you? The bigger (higher voltage) the better.

Dave

[Guruji]

Balancing

Guruji
Have you been able to get your loads balanced and see the motor speed up yet? I don't recall seeing that in your posts, and I want to make sure you are successful at this.

Dave

Turion thanks for response. No I did not manage to balance the loads and see the motor speeding yet.
Maybe in my case I am trying the impossible cause all my three batteries are low in charge

[clueless]

Turion that is reason I asked

where 12+volt motors might be salvaged.
I thave another question that I'll ask in another post.

[clueless]

Based off Turion's observation that

12 volt motors and bulbs might be burned out in this three bat set up, has anyone considered using one good and one bad battery with a normal 12 volt motor.
Maybe somebody that has everything already setup may try and see what results happen.
Unless somebody tells me why this wouldn't work that is probably what I'll do as simple 12 volt motors are easily scavanged and my understanding is the dead bat is where the magic is.
Possibly one of you that are already testing this might try just two bat...one good and one bad.

[Turion]

Clueless,
It's possible that it might run that way. I haven't tried it. It's the potential difference you're trying to use here, so you have to have ENOUGH of that to get the motor to run, and the minute battery three (or two in your case) starts to accept charge, that difference will go down fast. I have small 12 volt motor I could try that with, but I won't get back down to the basement until Monday. I DO know that the motor speeds up when loads are placed on battery 3 without drawing MORE current from batteries one and two, at least according to my gauges, and I think others have seen the same thing. It should be interesting anyway.
Dave

[FRC]

12 volt motors and bulbs might be burned out in this three bat set up, has anyone considered using one good and one bad battery with a normal 12 volt motor.
Maybe somebody that has everything already setup may try and see what results happen.
Unless somebody tells me why this wouldn't work that is probably what I'll do as simple 12 volt motors are easily scavanged and my understanding is the dead bat is where the magic is.
Possibly one of you that are already testing this might try just two bat...one good and one bad.

This might work. Another way to do things would be to use three 6v batteries. Some here have been using a 6v battery for battery 3 along with 12v batteries for 1 and 2. Seems to me that you would lose the Tesla switch aspect with only two batteries and that is crucial to how this works. But I might be wrong.


George

[FRC]

2bgs

OK I tried it. First I tried my regular motor and the first bad battery that ever
worked with this. After sitting for about 10 minutes and trying to turn the motor by hand I hooked up a load (halogen bulb) and the motor ran. I disconnected everything and checked batteries. Battery 1 had drained quite a lot. Bad battery 2 had gained about 5 volts.

Next I tried a smaller 12v motor and it worked without load. With load it worked same as the 3BGS. However I did not drain bad battery 2 on this run. I did not run things very long. Checked batteries and was surprised to see both batteries had gained. Good battery 1 was almost back to where it was when I started the first test. Bad battery 2 had gained about half a volt. Will have to check them after resting.

Conclusion: Two batteries do work with a smaller 12v motor. With a larger motor, I think it is better with three batteries, even more good batteries in series are probably better as Dave has suggested. If you want to get some real practical work done it is probably better to have a larger motor and more good batteries. Also a longer run should be done than what I did.

Connections were good battery 1 positive to motor positive, negative to
negative of bad battery 2, and positive of battery 2 to negative of motor.
So the positives were still split.

George

[FRC]

After resting for almost two hours good battery 1 is down .01 from the last
two short runs. Bad battery 2 has dropped over 3 volts, but has almost 2 volts
above where it was before the first test. This bad battery does usually drop
on its own, since it will not hold a charge and that is why it works as a bad
battery. Using the smaller motor, there would be less draw to make it run
combined with more charging back to good battery 1. Longer test should be
done to see for sure. I still think that 3 or more batteries are better as well
as larger motors being better if you want to generate additional charging to
other batteries. If all you want to do is get free light then the 2BGS way may
be enough and you might also get battery charging back to good battery 1
also with gains and no losses. As I said, longer runs have to be carried out to
confirm this.

George

[Guruji]

2battsetup

OK I tried it. First I tried my regular motor and the first bad battery that ever
worked with this. After sitting for about 10 minutes and trying to turn the motor by hand I hooked up a load (halogen bulb) and the motor ran. I disconnected everything and checked batteries. Battery 1 had drained quite a lot. Bad battery 2 had gained about 5 volts.

Next I tried a smaller 12v motor and it worked without load. With load it worked same as the 3BGS. However I did not drain bad battery 2 on this run. I did not run things very long. Checked batteries and was surprised to see both batteries had gained. Good battery 1 was almost back to where it was when I started the first test. Bad battery 2 had gained about half a volt. Will have to check them after resting.

Conclusion: Two batteries do work with a smaller 12v motor. With a larger motor, I think it is better with three batteries, even more good batteries in series are probably better as Dave has suggested. If you want to get some real practical work done it is probably better to have a larger motor and more good batteries. Also a longer run should be done than what I did.

Connections were good battery 1 positive to motor positive, negative to
negative of bad battery 2, and positive of battery 2 to negative of motor.
So the positives were still split.

George

Thanks FRC for this cause I only have small motors

[Turion]

FRC,
Thanks for giving that a shot, I too was curious about whether it would work or not. I need to think about those results and what they might mean to the overall performance of this system. But ANY positive results are good news and additional data. Even bad results are data.

Dave

[Duncan]

I'm in some kind'a zone .. please consider this..

Hi George.. Thanks for your response re Hatem That there is still a free energy source that hasn't been exploited by tptb I find amazing! those who fully understand it are either not in a position to release the information or have hopes of profiting from it. I think most of us are instinctively aware that the answers lie in the arenas of magnetism, gravity the pendulum, the standing wave , the scalar wave, and resonance In whatever combination, I would tend to keep in mind that David’s system had its birth in the Tesla switch in fact here's the very thing THE TESLA SWITCH
we already know from John Bedini that the Tesla switch is extremely difficult to set up and balance which means of course that your three battery motor arrangement is likely to prove a bit tetchy to tune (or get in the zone as you call it) Reading the above link you will see that John B and Tom B contrived to build a “Scalar wave detector” in order to “tune” the system. No electrician trained in universities or colleges in the last 100 years or so is trained with regard to the “linear wave”
but just so you get a feel for it officially a Faraday cage is supposed to be impenetrable to all known electricity but …. It isnt 20110324185908 (3).mpg - YouTube Its difficult to comprehend that there is a totally different type of electrical power with an unknown shape and form of which we are totally unaware and dont even have the instruments to measure .. But It is so .. It charges batteries and capasitors John B tells us so and shows us.... Tesla knew too! So lets play probability .. Tesla made extensive use of scalar wave in his coils, with his wireless power transmission system (and Indeed with nearly everything he touched) John Bedini admits that the tesla switch is extreamly difficult to tune (Scalar electricity is extreamly sensative to cable size and mass and length) hint .. study a little on how tesla coil is tuned primary to seconary, the above article quite clearly tells you a Scalar wave detector is being used by JB to match (get this machine into the zone) if big John found it difficult even after he has built a special detector what chance do we mere mortals have of hitting the sweet spot by accident? here is a circuit which I joined back up with the written description and posted on the DS thread that cold well serve you.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post185424 not a particularly difficult build even if you are not an electronics wizz .. alternatly search .. scalar wave detectors. As for the artificial battery .. I really know next to nothing as to how it might react .. just another possible bit for the overall jigsaw
The Dam walls creaking keep up the pressure guys addendum Meyl shows Tesla longitudinal waves for wireless energy transmission - YouTube

[clueless]

Thanks FRC

I glad two bat works similar to the 3 bat system. It seems from your description that results come quicker, too. This also might come in handy as a quick check for a bad battery for use in the 3BGS.
It also seems to me that using 2 bat lets you see immediately how much matching motor to bat might play a role. I may get these terms mixed but bat capacitance with motor inductance. I maybe mixing up terms but what I'm trying to see is if there is a relationship between the ability of the good battery(s) to deliver power and power requirements of the motor.
Anyway while researching what I was trying to say above I may have run across a method to make bad batteries. It seems if you charge a drained bat with a high charge rate for a short time ( I think longer serves only to physcially damage the bat) it, for lack of a better term, hardens the plates where they only take a surface charge. I can't say for sure as I might have come to a wrong conclusion.
If someone has the means to try this out it might work to produce bad batteries.
Anyway for those that are interested here is wiki page I got the info from.

Lead–acid battery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I am going to try this out with a car fan blower motor, the cage can act as a pulley...maybe!
This whole 3BGS is fascinating and something I can wrap my mind around as abstract thinking is not a strong suit of mine.
Thanks again.

After resting for almost two hours good battery 1 is down .01 from the last
two short runs. Bad battery 2 has dropped over 3 volts, but has almost 2 volts
above where it was before the first test. This bad battery does usually drop
on its own, since it will not hold a charge and that is why it works as a bad
battery. Using the smaller motor, there would be less draw to make it run
combined with more charging back to good battery 1. Longer test should be
done to see for sure. I still think that 3 or more batteries are better as well
as larger motors being better if you want to generate additional charging to
other batteries. If all you want to do is get free light then the 2BGS way may
be enough and you might also get battery charging back to good battery 1
also with gains and no losses. As I said, longer runs have to be carried out to
confirm this.

George

[FRC]

Interesting explanations

If you take a look at Lamare's latest explanation of Matthew Jones Tesla Switch
circuit and look at Ufopolitics explanation for the bad battery in post #413 of
this thread for the "bad battery", you see that they both compare what is
happening to that of what happens in an electrolytic capacitor. How can we
use this concept to mimic the bad battery ? Any ideas ?

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...witch-136.html

George

[Duncan]

If you take a look at Lamare's latest explanation of Matthew Jones Tesla Switch
circuit and look at Ufopolitics explanation for the bad battery in post #413 of
this thread for the "bad battery", you see that they both compare what is
happening to that of what happens in an electrolytic capacitor. How can we
use this concept to mimic the bad battery ? Any ideas ?

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...witch-136.html

George

Hi George I've drifted over to the link you indicate 413 and found some words of wisdom from Matthew Jones .. always a pleasure .. Matthew was kind enough to give me a lift to Spokane airport at some horrible time in the AM once .. anyway I don’t want to teach granny to suck eggs George but if you go to “permalink” in the top right hand corner of whatever post it is you want to indicate and left click it you will see one of the options is “copy link location” this will copy the particular post to your clip board.... just left click and past it as you do any other link .. I look forward to reading what has intrigued you..mind you Lamare's offering looks a tough chew al by itself
Best wishes Duncan

[bitbox]

A newbie question

Hello,

Reading this thread's 15 pages took me all night but was better than a full season of "Heroes" !

Thanks all of you, because after reading all of this, me and a friend decided to jump in and try assembling the thing. First went for batteries at a batteries discount close to where I live to find out that most batteries available nowadays are "Gel"... Nope I need Acid Lead batteries ! So we had to take two motorcycle batteries (12V 12Ah "Nitro" + 12V 9Ah "ACS").

Our next question to the shop keeper was "do you, by any chance, have some dead lead acid batteries"?
He only had one that we took. This one showed only 2.5 V and the vendor says it can't be recharged (though it doesn't "look" old).

Back to the garage, taking appart my pal's kid's radio-commanded electric truck to extract an electric motor. Putting the 2 good batteries in serie... I measure both batterie's voltage (12.5V & 12.2 V) and go for the good neg to bad neg connection. Done !

I decided to now measure the potential between the "bad pos" and "good pos". Thinking that it shouldn't be too high or even zero if it was a "good bad" battery. (am I correct in my understanding here?)

I REMEMBER WELL that finding a "good bad" battery isn't easy, so....
DISAPPOINTED!
I got around 23 V :-(

So here we are... I decided not to go further, as if I got it right, a potential of 23 V would clearly set the motor in motion immediately which indicates the bad candidate is a "bad bad", right ?

We'd appreciate your feedback on this (telling us we got the basics or pointing us back on the track). Although I read that there is no "certified" method for producing a "good bad" bat, but is there "something" we might try to make our "bad bad" closer to a "good bad", maybe some more details about the metal parts addition could help. I'm sorry but I never openend a Lead Acid battery and clearly think that we'd better be carful with that. I noticed there are several "caps" that can apparently be opened on the hopefully bad battery (which is a car battery - no reference cause I left it in my pal's garage sorry), probably one for each cell, but I really don't know...

I must say that, although a little bit disappointed, but not surprised, by the fact that we didn't pick up the Holy Graal, we are both impatient to get back to it. If no other solution exists, I'll even drop by all surrounding car mechanics asking them for their oldest Lead Acid battery.

One last question, regarding the motor. I called a few car parts resellers asking them for "any kind of 12V electric motor"... And it felt like they almost hang the phone laughing !? Didn't get it !
I went to a local electronics store but the last, and only, 12v motor they had was gone (a small one). That's how we found ourselves tearing the kid's truck appart.
I was thinking about going to a radio-controlled models specialist next week, but it's at the whole other side of town and wouldn't want to go there for nuts. I rapidly scanned their website and they seem huge... I'm pretty sure they probably have some kind of 12v (or higher) electric motor that can fit... Is the fact that it has to be permanent magnet and not brushless enough to satisfy the requirements for the assembly ?
Do you have an idea where we possibly could find a motor that would fit if radio-controlled model's motors are all brushless (many seem to be) ?

for sharing all this.

Best,

Thibaut