3 Battery Generating System

[Matthew Jones]

Minoly, you have to many posts to quete them all.

Wire wound resistors have no inductance so rethink the issue. The reason your are getting heat is because you have ELECTRICITY flowing through it.

Current + SemiConductor (Of and indadequete size) = HEAT

AND NO A RELAY WON"T HELP ANYTHING...

I think alot of you people are sitting around thinking to much. How'bout put somthing together and start finding solutions, as opposed to sitting around speculating on other people can fix their stuff.

There is no problem here the solution is an adequete switch.

And if I keep getting the feeling that we have bunch of thinkers over here I will retire from this thread and all MODS from this point out will be posted in my private forum and all ya'll will get to see snap shots of whats happening.

Less talk more work!
Matt

[Turion]

Minoly,
There is a private thread for the Tesla Switch. It has nothing to do with this. I have shared everything about THIS project right here on THIS forum. I have even brought things to here that I have gotten in private e-mails.

But I am also a member of three private forums that are invitation only because people there are working on projects, some of them for profit, who do not want lurkers running off with their ideas and patenting them when they have done all the hard work, which happens here all the time. And in those groups we have agreements that you don't share on the public forums any circuits or ideas that the group has posted for other members of the private forum to work with or on.

Luther and I CHOSE to open this up to everyone, because we felt it was important, and because we are not in this for the money. We want to make a difference. But I have no doubt that there are folks here who would love to grab this and run patent it if they thought they could make a buck. And no doubt some of them will try. So as far as I am concerned, this IS open sourced. Will it always be? Who knows. Will everybody always share EVERYTHING they come up with? Probably not. Should they? If they do the research, they do the building, they do the work, do THEY owe us anything? I would like to think they would throw us a bone and give us what they came up with after they patented their idea, but prior to that? Ever heard of the story of the Little Red Hen? I used to read it to my kids. The Storyteller Online - Dr. Mike Lockett

Dave

[ewizard]

Comments by some people familiar with patent law have indicated that if it's on the Internet and stated as open source that anyone trying to patent it will have a very hard if not impossible time. I would personally save all the web pages on your thread if it's a concern.

I would like to be spending more time working with this but there ARE reasons why not everyone can spend as much time building and tinkering. I envy those who can. I'm trying personally to get to where I can spend more with real hands on but it's not easy in my situation. So I try to keep up to speed and help out with some ideas when possible.

[Neight]

@ Patrick
with the system I used last night, my transistor stayed cool to the touch, no heat. So it is absolutely a matter of matching a switch with the load, big enough switch, and no fryday!

I have ceramic resistors with lots of different ohm and wattage values, and I might try some others, and see if I don't get better results. After letting my batteries rest overnight, I was hoping to see them climb above the original starting voltage, but they are holding strong where they started at least. imho, that is still pretty good, considering I ran the 3BGS three separate times, and even ran a 2BGS once with one of them, and used different bat3's in each run. That is more work in one day that I have ever put the batteries through before, and I was able to do that because of the faster recovery time.

There is definitely something right going on here, that doesn't happen without the resistor and transistor in place.
I have a few things to do this afternoon, but hope to have some time tonight to try another longer run, and maybe dig out a few of those other resistors and see what I can do with them.

I really hope this thread does not get all contentious and fall apart. There is something amazing going on here, and if this blows up because people can't get along, the loss will be unfortunate. This is an extremely simple setup to build, and that is THE goal, isn't it?
Anyway, regardless of what happens, I am going to keep at this. I have seen too much good come out of this setup already to just walk away.

N8

[Turion]

Guys,
My wife works in intellectual property law, so I have a pretty clear idea what can and cannot be done with material that has been put out here. I knew before I did it.

I intend to keep researching and posting my results here, and we're really, really close, so hang in there.

Dave

[Matthew Jones]

Here what I am talking about Minoly.

"why is the transistor getting hot in the first place"

So something must be wrong if its HOT....?

NO its getting hot cause you got to much going through it. Doesn't mean its wrong, just means you need a bigger switch.

and for further detail...

All this gets annoying. You cannot get a single concentration of good information. You have spam through all the "Why don't you try this..", deviation from the plan, and "Heres my plan".
Just build the thing as per recipe and report on it so we can move forward. If your not building the recipe and your trying everything under the sun do not chime every time some one who is building the recipe.
So what if an SSG doesn't act the same, it has no torque either. And it is really no better than a TOY for children with fresh minds. It has no pertinence to the recipe.

The point is if someone jumps in now they wade through a bunch of MUCK. And I have never been able to figure out why that is OK

I'll post again one of these days when I get the thing to the point its doing what I want to do. And thats only cause I want to help Dave.

Matt

[Turion]

Test run results

Original setup with the addition of two diodes connected between the terminals on battery 3. 1n4004
Did not need a load to start the motor
Voltage on meter barely moved off "zero" for battery 3 at the flip of the switch and returned immediately to 0
Motor was MUCH hotter than generator to the touch, so only ran it for about three minutes. Interesting blue light shining out of the motor, while just normal sparks on the generator. Some of us have seen that blue light before!!!
Had a small load on the generator.

Starting V Batt 1 12.30...Ending 12.25...after 5 minute rest 12.38 +.08
Batt 2 12.22...Ending 12.16...after 5 minute rest 12.27 +.05

Will post video to YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpAgsINmgTM
Be WARNED, motor noise is LOUD.

Looks like a winner to me. I am going to try this with my larger 110 volt motor. I feel more comfortable running it on 24 volts than running the 12 volt motor on 24 volts.

[Turion]

Minoly,
I think you and I were sending a post at the same time, and I hit my send button quicker, so you may have missed my last post. You should be sure and read it. I haven't run mine with a single transistor, or with a pair yet. Tried that yesterday, but my battery wouldn't let the system start up and run, and I thought it might be my wiring, so I went from two transistors to one to none, and when my original wouldn't run, I knew it was not the new circuit, so messed with the battery all day.

My most successful run has been the straight setup with a balanced load...until today. I did NOT do a long run because I was afraid of burning up the 12 volt motor running it on 24 volts, but I definitely DID see a significant increase in the two primary batteries within minutes of shutting the system down. Going down to check them again and will report any changes here now that they have rested for a while.

I would try the setup with just the two diodes. I would also make sure I switched wires on my motor because sometimes it makes a difference which direction the motor is turning do to interior brush placement. Don't know WHY, but it does. So try both combinations of wires.

Good luck! I feel like we are really, really close!!!!!

EDIT: Went down to check my two primaries now that they have rested for thirty minutes... #1 at 12.40 a gain of exactly 1 volt.....#2 at 12.30 a gain of .08 If the primaries can gain a volt for every three minutes the motor runs...I think we might be onto something here! Meet you at the bar! I'm buying!

EDIT: Almost an hour since the last time I checked the batteries and they have stabilized at the voltages I showed in the edit above. Tested with a load, and it was not just a surface charge.

Dave

[Mario]

Original setup with the addition of two diodes connected between the terminals on battery 3.

Dave, which way are your diodes pointing?

regards,
Mario

[Turion]

Mario,
I did it as Matt suggested, with one diode pointing each direction. Pretty simple. Hard to make a mistake with that one.

I have had my big motor running for 15 minutes with the same setup.I will post data on that one in 10 more minutes. I want to give my batteries the 30 minutes they need to recover as I gave them when running the small motors. I don't hold as high hopes for the bigger motor because it is 110 volt motor running on just 24 volts, so the RPM's are much lower than the small motor, and it is running my sixteen coil energizer, which is a heavier load. But it will still be a good test of the setup.

Test results:
Starting voltage Battery 1...12.40...after 15 minute run 12.23. After 30 minute rest...12.36 -.04
Battery 2....12.30...after 15 minute run 12.12. After 30 minute rest...12.26 -.04
It may be that the batteries need a little more time to recover, so I will check them in another 30 minutes to make sure the voltage has stabilized as I did with the batteries after the run with the smaller motors.

One thing of note...I did NOT see the blue light inside the motor that I saw with the small motor when it was running. I will take my OWN advice and do a second test run with the same number of batteries, but with the wires on the motor switched to see if that makes a difference. Then I will also do some 15 minute runs with additional batteries in series so I can get the RPM's of the motor up a lot higher and see if the benefits outweigh the losses. But first I want to do the wire switching thing to make sure I have optimized my opportunity for charging. If there are no other posts between now and when I check at the end of an hour, I will edit here, if there are, I will post final data in a new post if the results are different than what I have shared so far.

EDIT: That's where voltages stand after an hours rest and stabilizing. So will switch the motor wires and make another run, but probably not until tomorrow morning.
Dave

[fathershand]

New Diagram

Dave, will you please post a modified diagram showing the diodes? What puzzles me is that you put them across the bad battery and not across the positive of bat 1 and the positive of the bad battery.

Thanks for all the hard work!
Tony

[Turion]

I don't have access to my computer for a while to post a diagram, but that is correct. Two diodes, side by side, each pointing in a different direction, connected between the poles of battery #3. Other than that addition it is the very first diagram I posted on page one. Matt talked about using diodes, and I just wanted to see what would happen. For sure it worked with the smaller motor, because I "saw the light" and it was blue.

With a larger motor we may need more voltage, a bigger battery for more area on the plates, or possibly resistors before the diodes. Luther and I have been discussing this. I would love to hear what Matt has to say. He may say I have the diodes in the wrong place, but they are working ok right where they are on the small motor. They may work BETTER in a different location. But anybody who has messed with this stuff would recognize that blue spark of radiant energy inside that motor. For those who have never seen it, I will post a video tomorrow of that motor running off 24 volt standard current, and then 24 volts radiant energy. The difference is unmistakable.

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Directed to Turion

Hey Turion,

Did you read the post-answer I left at my Forum to your question?
That "Blue Light" you are getting on the video I saw...is Radiant Energy...if you keep "trapping" it is going to burn-fuse your commutator elements with the mica behind them...
I really do not want to start arguing with ANYONE else in this post HERE, about BEMF or CEMF and Radiant Energy...I am only trying to help Turion understand what is going on HIS set-up.


Here is my post:

Hey Turion,

I watched your video...and also your friend on same project.

Now, I get a vision of what you are talking about...and yes, I do understand it well what is going on there...

The Motor is a PM Brushed motor, as you have written in your posts...well, even another type..a Motor have "closed contacts" , meaning closed circuit, continuity at all times you connect it between potential...and those contacts lead to the Coils disposed inside...
Ok, what you have there is a Motor that when it is connected to the three batteries it acts like an Inductor...when NOT running, I meant...so, when the Positive from old battery is "Less Positive" or the same as "More Negative" than the Positive from the Source Batteries...it builds enough potential to develop a magnetic field inside the motor, strong enough that allows rotation...And, of course, the more loads you add to the Batteries at Source...the more "Negative" the Positive from used battery will be...so this will create a heavier EM Field on Motor...accelerating it...
Now, Radiant will flow and charge the battery...remember Radiant-Cold runs opposite to Hot current...so at the "More Negative" Positive of Hot will be Radiant Positive...and that is what charges your battery...

Actually the Old to be charged battery, works in this circuit like a Non Polarized Electrolytic Capacitor...and Your Motor is at Off (idling) as an Inductor Coil...till it starts running.

Remember there is either "Excess or Lack of electrons" what determines which one is "Positive" or "Negative"...all "relative" concepts my friend. There is always a "More positive than"...or "More Negative than..." in any electrical-electronic equation.."

Just something else I just remember...Your friends video adds a very heavy mechanical load on that motor...and then it gains power at charge up...this is completely logical...when He is loading the motor ...it slows RPM's, therefore there is more "Time On " per Coil inside motor. so more time for Radiant to flow out...
This motor is running on Linear source...not pulsed...however the commutation inside makes it "pulse"...when rotating.

To convince yourself of what am talking about...set just a Diode between the Motor and the Old Battery positive terminal...blocking positive from Battery to motor, and allowing Negative to flow instead , but allowing incoming Radiant Positive from motor to battery...and let's see what happens.

Cheers


Ufopolitics...

[Turion]

Thanks Ufo,

I will give that a shot tomorrow and see what happens. Then I may come talk to you again.

[Matthew Jones]

You've got the right idea with the diodes Dave, they are in the right place.

Matt