3 Battery Generating System

[Ufopolitics]

My Apologies To All

I got the wrong idea of what you guys were trying to do here.

I thought you were trying to revive an old battery, without any losses on the feeding , sourcing ones.

Therefore. the Two Diode arrangement is worthless. It was meant to charge that Old Battery by means of Radiant flow back to it from Motor Coils via diodes.

I have got it ALL wrong, my mistake, I misunderstood completely what was the point here.

Please, disregard the Diagram I have supplied.


I am sorry about it


Ufopolitics

[Matthew Jones]

Well thats big of you. I am sorry I got so personal about it. We all make mistakes. Nice to see someone admit it.

Matt

[Neight]

Hello everyone

I am not sure that my results and posts are holding much water here, but what the heck, I will keep posting them anyway, maybe someone will find this useful


In all of the testing I have done on the 2BGS and 3BGS I have noticed one very specific thing, which is even more clearly supported by the results being posted by everyone else.

You MUST match the motor to the voltage you want to use. 12V battery input, use a 12V motor. 24V input, 24V rated motor.
using smaller just makes the motor hot and burns things up. Using too big a motor and you will not see any charging, and will likely see some losses after the batteries have stopped recovering.

I have used everything from small 3V motors all the way up to 24V+ motors on several different testing setups. My results have been very consistent. It doesn't matter what diodes or switching you might be using, if you are trying to drive a 24V motor with a 12V input, or vice versa, you will not get the best results possible. That is not to say you will get poor results, as many tests have shown, it is possible to drive a large motor with a smaller input and still get full battery recovery in the primary batteries, but if we are going for true "overunity" or whatever you want to call it, then the load and input have to be matched.

The only person I have seen results from that is using a much larger motor than he is voltage input and has gotten better results is Turion, and he has been working at this for over 4 years. From everything else I have seen, the best you can hope for with unmatched load is full recovery, which isn't bad at all, but if we can do better, why not try?
When I have used 12V motor with the 2BGS, a 24V motor with the 3BGS, or even a 3V motor with a AA 3BGS, I get nice, fast recovery, and when using the diodes or switching method, I have even seen an increase in the input battery voltage. When I have used setups that are not matched, there might still be full recovery, but it has been much slower, which wont work if you only have a couple of batteries to use.
When using a motor that is not matched to the battery input, I have either seen small losses, or at best broke even.

As Turion has stated many times, he has been at this so long, he can "feel" when the motor and load on bat3 are in the zone. with his level of experience with this system, he is the only person I have seen that has better than broke even with a larger motor than input.
perhaps it is the bat3 he used in those tests, perhaps it has to do with matching the motor with the load on bat3 to get into the zone, and maybe the zone has a smaller zone of it's own where things work at the best efficiency.

I think we are getting too far away from the load that can be brought out of bat3 with the motor and it's load matched. I think we still need to be loading bat3, to increase the load the motor can drive. There is something to that which allows you to use a larger motor and still get full and fast recovery. Not all of Turion's run have had the same results, which is another indication of something going on with bat3.

I think we are getting close, and I am delighted to see the progress made in such a short time. I am positive the right combination of bat3/motor/load will be found, and I am quite sure it wont happen as quickly if we are bickering.

This is all my personal opinion and observations. I don't intend to step on any toes here, and hope I have not offended anyone, as that is not my goal.
I have been noticing more dictation than cooperation lately, and have noticed that a few people are getting frustrated and taking to arguing, rather than working together. It is everywhere on this and every other forum, but I see an opportunity to really get somewhere with this system, and hate to see good people run off because someone doesn't agree with them.

That is my two cents, regardless of what happens from here, I will continue to follow this thread and do my own testing. I will continue to share my results unless I am asked not to.
I hope what I have said will help get us a bit closer to a functional working system.

N8

[fathershand]

Attitude

I think we are forgetting a most important rule:

"Do unto others what you would have them do unto you."

Another way of saying that:

Treat other people the way that you want them to treat you.

Thanks for everything!!
Tony

[fathershand]

Batter 3

Matt. Thank's for your input
@All
I think this similar to what is going on here
[ATTACH]10596[/ATTACH]

Thanks for posting this, Rose!

EVERYONE:

Please take the time to read this. Pay careful attention to the accumulator part. Our bad battery is the accumulator.

Here is what I am going to do: Add several bad batteries in series and/or parallel. I know that some of them may get charged up, but I think that is OK. I believe that our current accumulator is too small.

I still believe that John Bedini is a credible scientist!

Thanks for everything.

Tony

[fathershand]

Results

UFO and others, would you kindly take some time to review my last test run and give me your thoughts?

Thanks so much!

Tony

[Turion]

All,
My apologies to Ufopolitics. I never really discussed our purpose on this thread when I butted into his, and I know he only came here to help.

So let me try to define that right now.
We are NOT trying to build a device that will charge battery #3. We know we can do that....or use a Bedini charger which is probably more efficient, although a little more complicated.

We are, at a minimum, trying to get the use of the motor without the draw down on battery 3. This would involve the use of the radiant energy produced by the motor to recharge those batteries.

But MORE than that. My original device ran loads off battery three that could not POSSIBLY have been run by the radiant energy produced by the motor if it is only EQUAL to that provided to the motor by batteries one and two. It is my belief that battery three opens a "gate" to radiant energy that comes in to charge the battery and as long as we put loads on battery three to PREVENT it from becoming charged, we get a WHOLE LOT of that energy.

If we balance the load on battery three and the load on the motor, there is NO drawdown on batteries one and two. I have seen this, and I think a couple of you have seen it too. If you've gotten your motor into the zone (see post #1) you have.

The problem is, put a load on battery three, the motor speeds up and provides more radiant, now battery three begins to charge. Put a load on battery three to use this up, and the motor speeds up. This produces more radiant. You keep going back and forth, and eventually you reach the limit of the motor and burn it up. Some of you have seen THAT too.

So the real issue is, how do we KEEP battery three from charging while maintaining charge on one and two and running our motor at high speed, and torque for FREE.

I will update post #1 to reflect this objective.
Dave

[broli]

I would say, switch between two bad batteries. Run the motor on one and "kill" the other with a load then switch.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello again...

Turion,

You do not have to apologize to me, it was entirely my mistake, I flew over your videos (Your friend and yours) and went over the thread too light!!

Mainly I did not stop and read your first post , very well detailed explanation of your set-up there.

My mistake....

Now and "finally"... I see the whole thing (about time)...I just had given myself a very good lesson...We all learn from our mistakes...it is part of our "methods".

But it is Ok...Dump and throw away everything done wrong...and start freshly from scratch....Reset to Zero.
We all have to keep doing that during our entire life...is part of it.

I will still try to help you here if you are Ok with that.

[rosehillworks]

all in it together

Thanks for posting this, Rose!

EVERYONE:

Please take the time to read this. Pay careful attention to the accumulator part. Our bad battery is the accumulator.

Here is what I am going to do: Add several bad batteries in series and/or parallel. I know that some of them may get charged up, but I think that is OK. I believe that our current accumulator is too small.

I still believe that John Bedini is a credible scientist!

Thanks for everything.

Tony

Your welcome. Just trying to help.

[shylo]

battery recharging

Hi folks, Today I was draining bat 3 (which read 3.26vdc) with several loads just to make sure it was dead ,before starting some new tests. After ~10mins. everything quit working and I let it sit like that to make sure it was fully drained (it read .58vdc).
I disconnected the drain loads,but forgot a little motor.
As I was hooking things up to do a new test ,the little motor started spinning.
I let it run for 2 hours ,it kept increasing in speed and voltage.
Finally I shut it off so I could get on with my experiments.
Now I've finished for the day ,so I drained bat 3 same as before ,this time I hooked the little motor up ,and as before after a couple mins. it started to spin.
That was 3 hours ago, it's still going. One thing I noticed is it will increase in speed then decrease,but when it increases it is always a little bit faster.
How can this be on a dead battery?
The motor is out of a cordless screwdriver.
I've be trying to increase the blue sparking ,it creates very high voltage spikes.

[Turion]

guys,

I get a number of e-mails every day from folks with great ideas for me to try, and I am keeping a list, but I tell them all the same thing. Don't tell me your idea...tell me the results of YOU testing your idea! We need to get more people involved. I spend a lot of time on the free energy sites on the internet checking out the different projects people are building, and I build some of them. I bet nobody but Matt has more versions built of his simple motor with the simple circuit than I do!. But THIS project is the simplest of all. Anybody can replicate the basic setup, and after that its ALL about experimenting. Tell your friends, tell people in other forums you know who are BUILDERS. Let's figure this thing out!

minoly,
The very first motor I used was from a child 's toy. It was:
Fisher Price 12 volt
00968-9003
63822
3E3312 47
It came fro a Fisher Price Power Wheels toy and those are the only markings on it.

When we realized we HAD something, put together an organized setup using the same batteries but a larger motor that had an attached gearbox and a pulley on the outside we could put a belt on to run another device or create load on the motor.
The second motor had the following markings
CIM
First Robotics
FR801-001
12Vdc
101104
Luther has a motor with the same specs he got to replicate my setup. You might ask him about it.

The motor I am using now has the following markings
McMillan Electric Company
PM DC Motor
Model S344633401 (the "S" may be an 8..the first "3" may be an 8.... the second "3" may be an 8 or a 2) It is pretty scratched up
P/N 12-0057
26.4 amps
brushed DC motor.
5020 Rpm
110 Vdc
3HP
This motor, balanced with a load on the batteries, I have gotten to run without depleting the primaries for over 8 hours.

I also have two smaller motors. The only markings on them are SZZ99937518P001 6-12 volt DC 10K They are directly connected to each other and one is running as a generator. This is the motor I ran with the dual diode setup Matt posted that got batteries one and two to DRAMATICALLY increase in charge in a three minute run. (To me a one volt increase while running a load and lighting up lights with the generator is dramatic! LOL) Haven't done a longer run yet, but I WILL tomorrow! I was afraid they were getting too HOT, and didn't want to burn them up, but I found my laser temp meter, so can keep an eye on them. Did a run with that motor connected directly to a 12 volt battery to get a baseline temp reading.

I also have two Razor scooter motors Model MY1016 coupled by a chain on their gear drive. I will be running them with the diodes tomorrow also.

Because my first two motors were SO different, yet produced the exact same results, I have always felt that a brushed DC motor was essential (and one that produces or generates lots of Radiant because of the way it is configured sure doesn't HURT) but that the BATTERY was the KEY to the whole thing. Which is why for four years I have been searching for the right batter, or enough information to be able to REPLACE the battery with something else.

shylo,
is your battery 3 connected to the other two batteries, or did you disconnect it from the system to discharge it? Do you have a motor between the two positives also? (while your small motor is running) If so, I assume it is NOT running?

Ufopolitics,
Love to have your contributions. The more the merrier.

rosehillworks,
I have read Ossie's stuff, and even built the energizer he talks about. I would not be at all surprised to find out that MORE bad batteries in series and parallel connected to this system significantly affected it somehow. Maybe the motor can run MORE load without battery three charging. That would be a tremendous benefit. I happen to have about ten no good batteries, just not enough of the large diameter wire to connect them all. I will, however, be going to the electrical supply house this week and will make sure I get enough to connect them all up, and will hit the auto parts store for battery connectors to go on those wires. I'm afraid that will be the extent of my budget for the week though. Unexpected car repairs and a silly dog who had to have surgery for swallowing a rock and not being able to pass it have kinda wiped out the extra cash in the household for a couple weeks.

EDIT: I connected four bad batteries in parallel with battery #3. Apparently they weren't BAD enough, because when I went to connect my two 1n4004 diodes across battery #3, one of those diodes went "BANG" and pieces bounced off my safety glasses. So beware campers, batteries can be dangerous in more ways than one.

Dave

[Matthew Jones]

Some new results

Today I started running a couple new dead batteries that have slightly different makeup than the last battery.
The one that I reporting on now is walmart lawn and tractor battery.

I have a bunch of these on the shelf and I have purposely left them discharged now for about 3 years. They also go through the seasons, so they get cold in the winter and hot in the summer. I don't leave them in the sun though.
I use them from time to time to test battery restoration technique or devices.

Anyway I hooked up one today on a 36 volt bank for the good batts and for about 10 minutes it would not run. But the voltage dropped to 28+- and the motor kicked in. It took another 20 minutes or so for the batt voltage to drop to 17.5+-. While the motor was running it would kick in (Speed up)real good then kick out (Slow Down). This was happening every 3 - 4 seconds.

What I noticed was that when the speed went up the voltage on the Good Batteries would drop, then rose slowly to a point, then motor slow down and the good batteries would lunge real high.
Maybe thats not the best way to state it but I am not sure how to describe it.

Anyway after 20 minutes of running this went away. The good batteries started to discharge again and leveled out bit. I shut them down and let them settle I'll have results tomorrow.

The thing is while that was happening the run batts started to actually recover under load.

So I took another setup and ran it with the 1 ohm 100 watts resistor. I started tapping the resistor connection on and off to emulate the behavior. And to my surprise I got a bit of charging.

This is promising because the battery was doing it. I know the switching setup is doing this so the speed of the switching may adjustable and it may be able to happen internally to the battery.

Anyway I'll film it tomorrow so you can see the process and then you can try it to see if you get similar results.

Cheers
Matt

[Turion]

Matt,
That's awesome man! Can't wait to hear the final results! I spent the afternoon and evening charging batteries and getting test setups put together. I need more lights for loads, and plan on picking some up tomorrow at the auto parts store that are 12 volt but screw into a standard socket.

I read about halfway through the battery pdf. I am getting one of the battery jars. I was going to get more, but I figure one will do for testing a particular setup. As long as I don't break it.
Dave

[shylo]

Hi Dave, when finished testing I disconnect everything.
The little motor was the only thing connected to bat 3.
Also the motor quit after 4 1/2 hours , strange how the drained battery can recover while load is attached and then run for so long.

Matt ,I experienced the same thing, this speed up, slow down.
I had my meter connected to the two positives on my rad fan.
When first started the meter read .56vdc the rad didn't turn ,at .78vdc the rad fan moved a little ,the meter dropped, then it bounced back to 1.06vdc and the fan started to spin ,slow but steady.
This continued for about 10 mins. until reaching a peak of 9.43vdc and the fan spinning very fast.
Then I start adding loads to bat 3 ,this increases fan speed and fan output.
I ran the fan output through a diode bridge and feed it into bat1.
the bridge output was at 13.04vdc, but as soon as I connect it to bat1 the reading drops to 10.45vdc.
When I disconnect the bridge output from bat1 the reading bounces back to 13-12.9 vdc .
Maybe some form of switch to pulse batteries 1&2 with the 13 volts?
The weekends just aren't long enough.
shylo