3 Battery Generating System

[Matthew Jones]

After skimming the 1 watt challenge by Hal Puthoff I'm going to say he's full of B.S. in more ways than you can count. His statement: " Similarly,
in briefing various government agencies, including the DOD, NIST (National Institute of Standards and Technology, formerly the National Bureau of Standards), and the Patent Office, we did not encounter any evidence of suppression or hindrance of our efforts, only encouragement." shows he is either full of it or clueless as we have proof to the contrary in some official patent office memo's that clearly state otherwise.

I suspect that the issue Matt mentioned regarding a ground is there because they KNOW most ZPE or radiant energy devices will fail when grounded.

Its been a long standing challenge since the 80's (When 10k was alot of money). I think the DOE first presented it in 84 or something like that. It was designed to suppress information, but not in a typical way. It was there so the people who were thinking outside the box would get attracted to it and try to make it work under the rules.
Tom Bearden explains it somewhere. He also talks about the Lorentz "Symmetrical regauge of the Heaviside component". The entire rule of the ground was to stabilize the mathematics and to do away with any environmental (Ether) interaction. And without the environment it is impossible to have an additional input of energy into a circuit. Likewise with Thermal Energy. If we did not exchange thermal energy with the environment we could never change temperatures in a room.
And the physicists who designed the one watt challenge know this absolutely.
Quantum and Astro physics deals with it on a regular basis. You cannot create energy, but you can create and environment or an environmental reaction that attracts and stores energy. Again anything Thermal based will discuss this.

So anyway If you meet somebody from the DOE let the bird fly, and give them a vulgar piece of your mind.

Matt

[blackchisel97]

Tom Bearden explains it somewhere. He also talks about the Lorentz "Symmetrical regauge of the Heaviside component". The entire rule of the ground was to stabilize the mathematics and to do away with any environmental (Ether) interaction. And without the environment it is impossible to have an additional input of energy into a circuit. Likewise with Thermal Energy. If we did not exchange thermal energy with the environment we could never change temperatures in a room.
And the physicists who designed the one watt challenge know this absolutely.
Quantum and Astro physics deals with it on a regular basis. You cannot create energy, but you can create and environment or an environmental reaction that attracts and stores energy.

I second that

Vtech

[Turion]

Matt, I did a several hour run yesterday, and was able to raise the voltage on my two primary batteries by over a volt, so I'm thinking this is working fairly well. Today I am going to try exactly the same thing, but with a bigger load on the motor. (Connect it to some lights or something)

I also want to try it with my big motor with generators unconnected to loads and see how it runs on just the 3BGS turning the two motors, without any additional primary batteries. Hopefully it will do ok, but I know it will be slow. There is just so much to test with this.

I want to start looking for a gen head and the motor to run it, so that I'm building a practical system. There are just not enough hours in the day!!

I almost have my test setup complete. At least I can do testing with it!!

3BGS Test Setup - YouTube

Dave

[blackchisel97]

Nice setup Dave I'm waiting for bigger motor to arrive in the mail, hopefully soon My brush-less motor isn't "producing" desirable effect.

Cheers
Vtech

[Turion]

minoly,
I will do the video you asked for of how to tune to get into the zone as soon as I get my small 12 volt lights and switches installed. That's all you need except a constant load on the motor. For some reason, without at least a little load on the motor, you cannot tune the system to get it into the zone. Or maybe you CAN, but it is an unbelievable PAIN. Then it is just a matter of adding a small load to battery three. The motor speeds up...you wait five minutes to see if it speeds up a second time on its own. If it doesn't, add another small load. You keep doing this until one time during that five minute wait it suddenly speeds up on its own, and you are in the zone. I don't know if I can capture all that on a YouTube video given the time limits, but I'll give it a shot. Or maybe I can get a system into the zone and then back off a couple loads to take it out of the zone and show you adding a load where the motor speeds up and adding the next load where the motor speeds up, and then speeds up AGAIN on its own.

I have all those 12 volt bulbs because I want to be able to get my big motor with a heavy load (running two motors as generators) into the zone, and I don't know exactly what it will take. If I have 25 watts worth of small bulbs, like four one watt bulbs, 2 five watt bulbs, and one ten watt bulb, I will have all possible combination I could possibly need to balance the load on the motor....when added t what I already have.....I think. Anyway that's my plan.

But just to be clear here, there is no GAIN getting the system to run in the zone. It's just that it uses NO energy and your batteries completely recover to whatever their voltage was right when you got it into the zone. So you might lose a few hundredths or even a few tenths getting into the zone and then run it for hours and hours and it is only those few tenths that you lost. Does that make sense? If you are very, very fast at getting into the zone you MIGHT see a slight gain, but it won't be much. I just want to be able to get my big setup into the zone to have an emergency source of power RIGHT NOW. Then keep working on developing this until the zone no longer matters.

The only time I have really seen SIGNIFICANT gains on the primaries since starting to post on this forum has been from Matt's setup with the 100 watt 1 ohm resistor. And remember, he said you needed a load on the motor to get it to work. You MUST have a load on the motor. And if it isn't a consistent load, you will NEVER get it into the zone.

I don't know if you have noticed, but neither Matt nor I CARE if we get into the zone anymore. It really isn't important when you can short out battery three and gain voltage in your primaries while still running the motor with a load on it...like a GENERATOR. What we are focusing on NOW is how much of a load can you run...how many batteries in series does it take and how many bad batteries in your sink do you have to have. How do we get all the power that is in this system back into the primary batteries. A tiny little motor in the zone is now just a toy. I want something that is going to produce some power, and that's why I have invested the time and money into my testing setup. Not to mention the batteries I have on order.

But a video would still be a good thing, so I will do one.

As for what makes a "good" bad battery.....mine reads 0 volts at rest, but will charge up to about 10 or 11 volts if ALLOWED to, which I do NOT allow. But it will lose that charge in just a few minutes. For me, it is a GREAT bad battery. This is the battery I put metal shavings into four of the six cells. It took time for this battery to get to where it is now, and it may eventually get to the point where it is useless. I don't know. It was a battery that was sitting at around 8 volts and I thought I would experiment with it.

I found a 'FLICKER BULB" that was 120 volt, and started looking for one that was 12 volt to use across battery 3 instead of the 100 watt 1 ohm resistor, and ran across this circuit, which is probably far more complex than what we need, but there are some good ideas here.
Flicker Circuit


Dave

[Matthew Jones]

Dave,
your setup rocks!
I can't get enough of your vids. I can't wait for one where you show the tuning you are doing to get into the zone, and maybe one comparing what might seem like a good bad battery to one that actually is. I tried everything you and Matt mentioned and more over the weekend.

I see many of the behaviors that you describe except for one - that is the voltage in 1 and 2 climbing before or after rest. I'm doing something wrong over here as I can only accomplish the conventional waste of energy.

did you use the wire wound resistor + switch on your long run?

anyway, I know you are busy with plenty of your own testing - and I'd much rather see a vid of the whole thing working, but if you ever do get to the other two - it might go a long way to helping some of us have more success.
Thanks,
Patrick

Also I have 3 setups going and only one is doing well. So don't be surprised if you have not found the perfect combination. And thats exactly what your going to find if you keep trying. You'll see.

Matt

[Turion]

Just ran one of the tests I wanted to run while waiting on some other stuff. I connected my big motor first. With only two batteries to provide power to the 110 volt DC motor, it would not turn the two motors as generators. It would not turn one of the two motors as a generator. BUT, when connected directly to one 12 volt battery, it will turn BOTH of the motors as generators and they are putting out about 34 volts each. They pegged my gauge, which only goes up to 30 volts DC, so I had to put a meter on them to get the voltage. I took the belts off the pulleys on the big motor, eliminating its load except for the two big pulleys which act as flywheels. The primaries showed around 12.14 volts and by shorting across battery three, I took the voltage on battery two up to 12.24 in just a couple minutes. But I could NOT get it to go any higher than that with the big motor.

I disconnected the big motor and connected my Razor scooter motors The voltage on battery 2 dropped to 12.16-12.17. When I short out, it will drop down to around 12.14, go back up to 12.16, and spike up to 12.19 or 12.20.

So I disconnected the Razor scooter motors, connected the larger motor again, and the voltage on battery two immediately went back up to 12. 23. I disconnected and connected the smaller motor, and it dropped back down to 12.16-12.17. I tried this with three different meters and got the same results. For some reason, when the larger motor is connected the batteries show a higher standing voltage. More wire in the motor coils maybe???

[shylo]

high voltage spikes

To All,
Is there anyway to capture the high voltage spikes, from shorting the coils?
Shorting could be the same as switching....

I have found ways of increasing, output.


shylo

[Mario]

Just ran one of the tests I wanted to run while waiting on some other stuff. I connected my big motor first. With only two batteries to provide power to the 110 volt DC motor, it would not turn the two motors as generators. It would not turn one of the two motors as a generator. BUT, when connected directly to one 12 volt battery, it will turn BOTH of the motors as generators and they are putting out about 34 volts each. They pegged my gauge, which only goes up to 30 volts DC, so I had to put a meter on them to get the voltage. I took the belts off the pulleys on the big motor, eliminating its load except for the two big pulleys which act as flywheels. The primaries showed around 12.14 volts and by shorting across battery three, I took the voltage on battery two up to 12.24 in just a couple minutes. But I could NOT get it to go any higher than that with the big motor.

I disconnected the big motor and connected my Razor scooter motors The voltage on battery 2 dropped to 12.16-12.17. When I short out, it will drop down to around 12.14, go back up to 12.16, and spike up to 12.19 or 12.20.

So I disconnected the Razor scooter motors, connected the larger motor again, and the voltage on battery two immediately went back up to 12. 23. I disconnected and connected the smaller motor, and it dropped back down to 12.16-12.17. I tried this with three different meters and got the same results. For some reason, when the larger motor is connected the batteries show a higher standing voltage. More wire in the motor coils maybe???

Hi Dave,

yes, it sounds like that. Motors made for higher voltages (just like transformers) have more turns and thinner wire which in your case lets you end up with both higher resistance and impedance letting through less amps. I think your primaries simply stand higher because the bigger motor consumes less then the lower voltage razor ones.

regards,
Mario

[Turion]

What is of special interest to me is that I could not run the motor with the two generators connected to it. or with even ONE generator connected to it as the motor for the 3BGS, but I COULD run the motor with both generators connected to it when connected directly to ONE battery. So I will have to have several batteries in series to provide the current required to run this motor as part of the 3BGS if I want two generators connected to it.

shylo,
I'm not ignoring you, just don't have the answer you're looking for. What did you find to increase the output?

Matt,
I keep thinking about your simple motor as the motor for the 3BGS and wondering if it would for. Since I have a couple of them, I might give that a try. Have you already tried it? I know the simple circuit was what made it work, but I was curious about how it would work with this setup.

Dave

[Matthew Jones]

What is of special interest to me is that I could not run the motor with the two generators connected to it. or with even ONE generator connected to it as the motor for the 3BGS, but I COULD run the motor with both generators connected to it when connected directly to ONE battery. So I will have to have several batteries in series to provide the current required to run this motor as part of the 3BGS if I want two generators connected to it.

shylo,
I'm not ignoring you, just don't have the answer you're looking for. What did you find to increase the output?

Matt,
I keep thinking about your simple motor as the motor for the 3BGS and wondering if it would for. Since I have a couple of them, I might give that a try. Have you already tried it? I know the simple circuit was what made it work, but I was curious about how it would work with this setup.

Dave

Heck for that matter a switch alone might work. You might not need any motor at all just pulse. Try a small system with a transistor driven off of the stamp chip.

Matt

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Nikola Tesla




The pos and neg plates are the ''dead battery''. Same principe as hutchison crystal batteries, kapanadze, Ossie Callanan, bedini, newman, gray, morray and so on. You get the point?? Now, we can ''create'' the dead battery. It's a battery that consist of voltage potential with a very small current. Crystal battery!! Put them in series and you got it! What it take is a sulfate and a sulfide. Like lead sulfate crystals and lead sulfide crystals (galena) in a common dead lead-acid battery. Galena is a semi-conductor doping agent. Build crystal batteries made of magnesium and copper. The crystals are magnesium sulfate (epson salts) doped with impurities of iron sulfide (iron pyrite) and lead sulfide (galena). I'm sure i'm on something here....

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Hello

Hi all! I'm new on this tread and I want to congrats all of you for the hard work you put on.

[Matthew Jones]

Hi all! I'm new on this tread and I want to congrats all of you for the hard work you put on.

Welcome.

Remember this is working thread so, your theories are welcome but you have to go out of your way to work them yourself. Proofs in the puddin.


@All
New video for ya Davids Setup 5
This is the schematic.



It hard to explain but give it try and see if it will run stable for ya.

Cheers
Matt

[citfta]

Hi Matt,

In the schematic you just posted is R the 1 ohm 100 watt resistor you have been using? And are you leaving it connected all the time or are you still pulsing it across the bad batt. I have two bad batts connected in parallel but am looking for another to try your setup. I am looking through my batts for another dead one but haven't found one dead enough yet. Thanks for all you have shared.

Carroll