3 Battery Generating System

[blackchisel97]

Make the trip get a big EI core. Unless the material in the toroid is iron powder pure (Very rare or very small) it will not spike as needed. Most of them are designed to suppress transient behavior. Although they work good for step up what your are looking for will not come from it.

Most EI cores are designed for lower frequency 50-60 hz. But when you crank them up they get funny (In good way) about different things. The closed multi direction pattern has alot to do with that.
I have run cores that are 2 separate winding on either side and they do not work as well either.

I have a pattern in mind that will most likely do more than the EI core but to have it made is to much right now. Maybe I will put a paypal button in my signature. LOL

Anyway get an EI if you can. Any used one will do. Especially if it has multiple sections in the spool so you can isolate the windings that pass through and the winding that collect. - it doesn't but I can make a partition on the spool.

Matt

My toroid is 120mm and it is a military grade. Similar one damaged my scope during some unrelated test.
I do suspect something strange - as you said, since iron core isn't meant to run in kHz range.
Just dissected power backup unit transformer. It has a fair size EI core. I took 4mm winding off but I'm debating on the remaining two. One is #19 and second #23 (approx). I'll take them off, I guess and wind #18. I should have plenty of space to isolate each.
I could wait until tomorrow and look for a bigger one but I'm anxious to see this running.

Thanks
Vtech

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

Transformer core material

Hi, just an idea for the core material. Try using soft steel welding rods. You do this by bending multiple rods in a square shape. Same thing that in the bedini SG 1:1 transformer but in a square shape instead. It improves the magnetic flux.

[blackchisel97]

I've got transformer stripped down and glued divider onto spool. Unfortunately, JB Weld takes time to cure so no winding tonight. I may even have enough wire salvaged from it. It is #19 but should be ok.
I'll work on this after I get some rest.

Cheers
Vtech

[blackchisel97]

Finally, I got my transformer done. Primaries and secondaries separated, bolts isolated from the core, no shorts just sore fingers LOL.
I don't know if I did right thing; I had salvaged wire from same transformer, AWG#16-17. I used as primary, 40T each but it wasn't enough for secondaries so I used AWG#19 but more turns on each (2X 60T).
I had it running from small 12V LABs and hooked up 5W load to it. No wing batteries or diodes yet. I have a pulse set at 50% dc and tried to run between 1 - 10kHz. Mosfet runs barely warmer than my hand. I have 47k between gate and source.
Matt, what size caps do you have in voltage multiplier? I tried 10,000uF but not sure if that's correct.
I forgot to eat today so I'll catch up with that issue and go back to bench.

Cheers
Vtech

[Turion]

blackchisel97,

Doubt if you'll hear from Matt for a couple days, although he might check in. He's awful busy right now.

Dave

[blackchisel97]

blackchisel97,

Doubt if you'll hear from Matt for a couple days, although he might check in. He's awful busy right now.

Dave

I forgot about that He did mention earlier. Oh well, I'll see what I can do in a mean time.

Thanks Dave

Vtech

[FRC]

Flasher

I have not tried anything lately. I have been too burnt
out from working. This is getting pretty advanced with
the digital circuit.

Going back to when Matt was pulsing the 1 ohm resistor
manually, what if you used an automobile signal light
flasher hooked up to the positive of bad battery 3 with
the other end to the one side of the resistor and other
end to the negative of the battery ? Would this work ?

George

[Turion]

Drill out an old cd center hole to fit on the shaft of your motor, stick a small magnet on it, and use a reed switch to pulse the Resistor. If the hole is already too big for your motor, glue a milk bottle lid or something else plastic over the hole and then drill that out to fit. Or just use the lid to a cottage cheese container or something like that to drill the hole in and glue the magnet to. Anything with fairly stiff plastic should work. A couple of them put together give more stability. The flasher may use up some electricity, but might still work.

Dave

[blackchisel97]

Drill out an old cd center hole to fit on the shaft of your motor, stick a small magnet on it, and use a reed switch to pulse the Resistor. If the hole is already too big for your motor, glue a milk bottle lid or something else plastic over the hole and then drill that out to fit. Or just use the lid to a cottage cheese container or something like that to drill the hole in and glue the magnet to. Anything with fairly stiff plastic should work. A couple of them put together give more stability. The flasher may use up some electricity, but might still work.

Dave

Or even a cam (similar idea to the car) made anything stiff - plastic, wood and microswitch. They can handle more power than reed.

I'm playing with my setup for the past couple hours trying different freq. I replaced the caps in multiplier for smaller ones. I thought they weren't charging fast enough with higher freq. I'm still running on small LAB's so I can see any changes. I can get the spots where they "hang" longer without dropping but I can't call this a success yet. I'll start again tomorrow with "fresh" brain and I hope to find something for the wings. I could try 10,000uF instead but I have a feeling they maybe too small.

Cheers
Vtech

Vtech

[Matthew Jones]

@blackchisel97
I do not think you even need that much capacitance. The first time I tried it I used 4200uf 65 volt caps.
I haven't used it on this circuit yet.

Whats open voltage on your secondary windings? You might not need the voltage booster. Say, if your open voltage is above 32, your good.


@FRC
I think that might work. You will have to watch the primary battery behavior. You'll see it pop.

I'll try to check back in later today.
Matt

[Matthew Jones]

@ blackchisel

Circuit Simulator Applet


This is a falstad simulation. Shows you if you make the caps smaller you get more ripple and thats it. To big will slow the whole proccess.

Matt

[blackchisel97]

@blackchisel97
I do not think you even need that much capacitance. The first time I tried it I used 4200uf 65 volt caps.
I haven't used it on this circuit yet.

Whats open voltage on your secondary windings? You might not need the voltage booster. Say, if your open voltage is above 32, your good.

Matt

Depending on freq. I'm running, between 10 -16V. I think it's too low for some reason. I can adjust to have 13.5V over the bad battery. I switched to bigger bank and tried 20W load on it. They drop to 12.30V and stay near.
I'm puzzled with low secondary output. The reason I put more copper into them was to step up a bit and get away with multiplier.
I'm using N Fet. The only P's I have are rated at 6.5A max.
I changed caps to 2.5k
Thanks
Vtech

[LutherG]

The Case of the Smoking Glove...

That we can balance the system is only one half of the equation... the torque gained in the motor is the other side...

The Smoking Glove.3GP - YouTube

Cheers,

Luther

[Matthew Jones]

Depending on freq. I'm running, between 10 -16V. I think it's too low for some reason. I can adjust to have 13.5V over the bad battery. I switched to bigger bank and tried 20W load on it. They drop to 12.30V and stay near.
I'm puzzled with low secondary output. The reason I put more copper into them was to step up a bit and get away with multiplier.
I'm using N Fet. The only P's I have are rated at 6.5A max.
I changed caps to 2.5k
Thanks
Vtech

The switch does not matter what really matters is your spiking inside the transformer. The output will go up as you add load to it. Or can slow the thing down and see if you get more power out that way. Sometimes going to fast doesn't give the core enough time to shut off and collapse.

Matt

[CrystalDipoleMatrix]

The 1984 FEG

What I see here is just another trick to get the same effect that in the Bedini/watson FEG machine back to 1984. Catching the negative radiant spike into a variable capacitor in-between motor pulses to transform it into positive radiant that can recharge the primary. Very easy to get running but very hard to tune. I'm currently running a bedini sg cap pulser and it does some strange things when properly tune. Like bringing an old dead alkaline 9v battery to full capacity and behond. The most difficult thing to do with these machines is to ajust the pulse width going to the cap and the discharge length of the cap going to the charging battery.