3 Battery Generating System

[Matthew Jones]

https://www.matthewcjones.com/powerB...larCharger.jpg

Thats the address but the picture is showing for me.

You already have the picture though.

Matt

[Turion]

Oh yeah, I definitely have this picture! This is the setup I am building now with my large transformer I just rewound with 8 wires Matt designed feet drivers for this setup and I had those boards made and have tested them. They work great. I hope to have mine ALL put together shortly. When Matt says you need 10,000uf to 20,000 uf caps at 100 volts, he means it. Anything less is likely to go boom.
Dave

[ehsanco1062]

Oh yeah, I definitely have this picture! This is the setup I am building now with my large transformer I just rewound with 8 wires Matt designed feet drivers for this setup and I had those boards made and have tested them. They work great. I hope to have mine ALL put together shortly. When Matt says you need 10,000uf to 20,000 uf caps at 100 volts, he means it. Anything less is likely to go boom.
Dave

Hi Turion

how you got all these thing and Matt just post the schematic did you knows about the schematic early or what!
Ok that’s fine because since you wound your transformer I have a couple question:
1. I have the 3000w transformer still waiting to be wound and i have two wires #12 AWG and #14 AWG and I don’t know which one is best, for me i would rather #14AWG because it’s a little bit easier .
2. How many turns you wound your transformer is it 40turns or more
another question where did you make your boards because with this design we need to have board or it will be mess of wires.

Ehsan

[ashtweth]

Guys, really been enjoying reading all the thread we started winding David's stuff over the weekend (240volt version) but wanted to see if we could get any thing for Matt going.

Just a quick test from i think is now the old one here (not the scalar charger)
ImageShack® - Online Photo and Video Hosting

Still learning , we got heat from the transistor, we used a 2N3055. Not sure what transistor is recommended, but it appears it is an NPN type. We did not have a heatsink, maybe we could try paralleling more transistors if necessary. The transistor got hot very quickly when we connected the power.

still a bit behind and guessing that the 1 ohm 100 watt resistor is for if the dead battery is of a high impedence, that the motor can still turn,1 ohm seems quite a low impedance. The manual switch causes the motor / generator setup to run slow in one position, fast in the other position.
will get a snap up later. We used a clamp ammeter and measured around 5A
For the batteries.

started out with Good battery: 12v 1.2AH (will have to use larger batteries)
Bad battery: 18AH, also tried only capacitors.

any how just wanted to thank Lid, Luther , Dave, Matt and you all for the best thread going ATM. Will have more stuff for Dave's later.

Edit, new one from Matt, love ya brother will have a go at this too.

Ash

[ehsanco1062]

Don't wait on me....

Here..


The caps are 10k uf to 20k uf

I'll explain it later. If you have the parts to build it chime in. If you don't and need some let me know I can provide info on drivers and fets.

Matt

Hi Matt

Thank you very much for shearing the schematic, i don’t thing that you are waiting from us to thank you for your hard work to help us build this system but I think it’s my duty to thank you and this is the least thing we can give it to you.
I have some questions and I hope I am not bothering with these questions:
1. What is the value for C3 and C4?
2. Are we using the same P-channel Fet 1xTN170p10p-ND for F1, F2, F3.
3. what is the value for R1,R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R7,R8,R9
4. in your previous schematic you used on optocoupler and here you are using
three so does we need only one basic stamp to feed these optocoupler or
we need one basic stamp for each optocoupler .
5. What is the value for the D1,D2,D3 .

Thank you again

Ehsan

[Turion]

ehsanco1062,

The reason I knew about the schematic before Matt posted it is because he and I talk all the time, and I have known him for a while now...since I built his simple motor and probably drove him crazy with questions. Sometimes he tries things out on me to see if they are idiot proof...because if I can do it, ANYBODY can. That's no lie either! So when Matt built his next to last circuit and it was so successful, he improved upon it, and I have been messing with the improved circuit. Matt designed (and I built, with a lot of help from him) some generic driver boards that will run the fetts on this circuit. So I began working on winding my transformer with 8 strands shortly after Matt posted his previous circuit.

I used the big transformer I ordered to build the big setup Matt showed in the "Use for the Tesla Switch" forum. It took 8 strands of #18 each 40 feet long.

You are right about wires everywhere. That's why Matt designed boards for this setup. I ordered them and then soldered all the parts on and have been running with them on a smaller transformer, one about halfway in size between the one he listed in the previous schematic and this big one that i was winding. You will have to talk to Matt about getting the boards. They cost, but they can also be used on lots of different projects so I felt like they were WELL worth the cost and they make life so much easier!


No secret conspiracy here. Just trying to make sure things WORK before wasting people's time. We don't sit around and think of schematics for other people to build to show how smart we are. We BUILD them first and then show you the ones that work.
All the parts on the control boards are also on this schematic. I have that parts list somewhere. I'll look for it.
If I'm not mistaken, R1-R9 depend on whether you are running this with a STAMP or some other microprocessor.
I think I have those values for the STAMP, which is what I am using. Matt is using something else, so he probably has the right ones for the Propeller, which is what I think he uses now.


Dave

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Matt

Thank you very much for shearing the schematic, i don’t thing that you are waiting from us to thank you for your hard work to help us build this system but I think it’s my duty to thank you and this is the least thing we can give it to you.
I have some questions and I hope I am not bothering with these questions:
1. What is the value for C3 and C4?
2. Are we using the same P-channel Fet 1xTN170p10p-ND for F1, F2, F3.
3. what is the value for R1,R2,R3,R4,R5,R6,R7,R8,R9
4. in your previous schematic you used on optocoupler and here you are using
three so does we need only one basic stamp to feed these optocoupler or
we need one basic stamp for each optocoupler .
5. What is the value for the D1,D2,D3 .

Thank you again

Ehsan

I just wanted to make sure someone was ready to build this as opposed to just looking.
https://www.matthewcjones.com/powerB...TCHDRIVERA.zip

These files are for ExpressPCB

Right click on a part in the schematic and you will get the DIGIKEY part number. Most of the schematic above (SCC 1.0) is covered by this driver schematic.

MAYBE DAVE YOU POST A PICTURE OF HIS FINISHED BOARDS.

Anyway the Fets in the schematic can be just about anything 300v to 1000v at or about 50+ amps. You decide.

The caps (C1-C2) are 10000 uf 100v or bigger. You do not want to use little caps in this spot they will blow and you will get hurt. Big is good.

D1 - D4 are any Ultrafast at 100v -300v 35 20 amp or above. Ultra fst is the important part. They make spikes and add to the overall system energy.

One thing about the 24 volt load is "IN reality" in would better to put that power into a battery for charging while running a 12 volt load in the middle.
I'll draw it if you don't understand what I am saying.

For the more advanced people if you feel the need to try you can impedance match the serial fet and the windings of the transformer.

If you have anymore please ask. I know I am gone more than I am here but I will try to keep up. Lifes terribly busy right now.

One last thing. Do not use this circuit with batteries that the fluid cannot be veiwed. IE NO gel's or AGMS, Nicad ect. Only good lead acid batteries you pop the top on.
If you come across a rapid boiling situation shut you system down immediately.
Just in case you may want to incorporate a manual switch at some point off the main battery.

I am not responsible for damage or injury occurred while experimenting with this circuit. Build and use at your own risk.

Matt

[ehsanco1062]

One thing about the 24 volt load is "IN reality" in would better to put that power into a battery for charging while running a 12 volt load in the middle.
I'll draw it if you don't understand what I am saying.

For the more advanced people if you feel the need to try you can impedance match the serial fet and the windings of the transformer.

If you have anymore please ask. I know I am gone more than I am here but I will try to keep up. Lifes terribly busy right now.



Matt

Hi Matt

Thank you for the information ,you are right I didn't understand what is that mean if you can draw I will greatiful .
About the Fet is it NPN ,or PNP channel .
My transformer is 3000w the one I have it from your big setup for tesla switch
Shall I use 8 wire 40 feets #18AWG or thicker wire is butter .
Dave said that I can get a help from you about the board and how much it will coast .

I will start building this scaler charger as soon as I will get the parts and my setup will be just like Daves one because he is using basic stamp and I have two pieces of that stap so why spending more money on the propeller if you can help us with codes for pulsing .
Thank you again

Ehsan

[Matthew Jones]

They are N channel Mosfets. Right now for easy use this is the Fet I would use.

IXFN180N25T IXYS | IXFN180N25T-ND | DigiKey

They work good and are easy to use with the screw down. They hold up well but the price is a little high. You'll probably need at least 1 extra in case anything happens.

But then again you can shop around and find something that will work based on the size.

You also do not need the 3 KVA. If you can find a 500 va or something that will work for experiment.

I added the stuff I was talking about with a 12 volt battery into the drawing. Just go back up and look at it. You might need to refresh your browser.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

I have Code for the Stamp all ready to go when you get built.

Matt

[Turion]

Here are the Digi Key part numbers for the schematic

C1 .1uf 478-6010-ND
C2 .1uf 478-6010-ND
C3 .1uf 478-6010-ND
C4 .1uf 478-6010-ND
DC1 DC-DC Converter 12v-15v VFSD2-S12-S15-SIP
DC2 DC-DC Converter 12v-15v VFSD2-S12-S15-SIP
DC3 DC-DC Converter 12v-15v VFSD2-S12-S15-SIP
DC4 DC-DC Converter 12v-15v VFSD2-S12-S15-SIP
FOD1 3120 driver FOD3120-ND
FOD2 3120 driver FOD3120-ND
FOD3 3120 driver FOD3120-ND
FOD4 3120 driver FOD3120-ND
J1 Terminal Block 2 pin ED2580-ND
J2 Terminal Block 2 pin ED2580-ND
J3 Terminal Block 2 pin ED2580-ND
J4 Terminal Block 2 pin ED2580-ND
R1 1k ohm RNF12FTD1K00CT-ND
R2 1k ohm RNF12FTD1K00CT-ND
R3 1k ohm RNF12FTD1K00CT-ND
R4 1k ohm RNF12FTD1K00CT-ND
R5 47 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT47R0CT-ND (zero after the “R” not a capital O)
R6 47 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT47R0CT-ND
R7 47 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT47R0CT-ND
R8 47 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT47R0CT-ND
R9 22 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT22R0CT-ND (zero after the “R” not a capital O)
R10 22 ohm 1/8watt CF18JT22R0CT-ND
R11 22 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT22R0CT-ND
R12 22 ohm 1/8 watt CF18JT22R0CT-ND
TE1 A98479-ND A98479-ND

I will post a picture of my boards.
Install Express PCB that Matt gave you the link for. Download the two files Matt gave you a download link to. When you open up the PCB board file, go to "Layout" at the top of the page and then to "order boards from the internet" At one point it will give you a choice of three or four different kinds of boards and you want the CHEAP one which I think is at the bottom. I think it's called the "mini board" or something like that. Three for $75.00. Each board will control 4 fetts, and you only need ONE board for this setup, but the minimum order is three. So some of you might want to go together and get the boards and share the $75.00 expense.

Matt sent me a "Paint by Numbers schematic for folks (like me) who are just learning to really understand circuits. It includes a picture of the basic stamp, my completed circuit board, the fetts and batteries for this setup. It also shows the modified schematic that has the driver circuit for the fetts removed. It does NOT include the latest modification for driving a load and charging a battery. For that, refer to Matt's drawing above.

[ehsanco1062]

Hi Matt

I have just order or the PCB board will shipped to Sweden within 10 days it cost 142$ three boards pro including shipping to sweden.
And I will continue shopping the other parts and it’s hard to find 500w transformer here in Sweden so I have to order it also or I can use the same transistor I use it for the small setup of your tesla switch which is 250w does it work ?
And if it is then shall the wire gauge be #18 and 40 feet long 8 wires and 40 turns or less?
One more question it’s about these 1/8w resistors I have many resistors ½ and ¼ w and 1w can I use them instead of the 1/8 w ?
Ehsan

[IndianaBoys]

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IndianaBoys

[Matthew Jones]

Hi Matt

I have just order or the PCB board will shipped to Sweden within 10 days it cost 142$ three boards pro including shipping to sweden.
And I will continue shopping the other parts and it’s hard to find 500w transformer here in Sweden so I have to order it also or I can use the same transistor I use it for the small setup of your tesla switch which is 250w does it work ?
And if it is then shall the wire gauge be #18 and 40 feet long 8 wires and 40 turns or less?
One more question it’s about these 1/8w resistors I have many resistors ½ and ¼ w and 1w can I use them instead of the 1/8 w ?
Ehsan

You'll have to give me the part number.

Matt

[Turion]

I ran this by Matt, so hopefully it is correct. It doesn't include the new stuff he posted on the load side.