3 Battery Generating System

[ashtweth]

Guys , Matt
dont touch this thing with out
Insulating Electrical Gloves

BTW, making progress on this and the Joule ringers will post ASAP

Ash

[Turion]

I've been pretty tied up with working on my place for the last week or so, but that will be over on Sunday (after company comes this weekend) and I will be back at it full time. My higher voltage fets should be here today, and I already got my high voltage diodes. I will have six of the switching boards to play with if I am able to make repairs to the two I burned parts out on. Can't wait to at least TRY to fix them.

Dave

[ehsanco1062]

Hi all

Finally I have my fourth diode it's 600v 70A and also I have 500w transformer and after five hours of fighting and straggling I managed to disassembleing it and it's ready to be warped and I start to charge my two batteries one is 50Ah and the ather one is 60Ah to be used as a primaries and I have 7.2Ah SLA battery topper the basic stamp and the power board and I will use another battery 55Ah as alias in series with my 5w automotive bulb and hopefully I will start the test tomorrow .mean will I will double check the wiring , I needs to use many late meters two for the caps to read the voltage Nd one for each primary battery and on for the charge battery so it will be for total five ,I have a scop but I don't hook it to read the frequency can any one help me with that ?

Note :all the batteries I am using exept for the SLA are old and reconditioned with solid state charger.

Good luck to all

Ehsan

[Matthew Jones]

Put your lead on the drain of the serial FET (Between the 2 primaries) and ground on the source of that fet.

I have been messing around with this thing a bit but its been hard the last couple of days, I cut my finger off at work. So... I am dumb ass but that how it goes.

Matt

[Turion]

This from Toneman. He was having trouble posting.

"I've been following since the beginning and have tested and tinkered. I did switch to the 2 battery set up just to do some simple, quick result tests. One we started with the Stamps and codes this quickly (like a transistor that stuck in off) went over my head and budget. So this is for the guys still playing with 3B's and 2B's;
I noticed that you originally wanted to run your 10 coiler on this system. I'm using a 2B with the negative of my small J.B. PC fan attached to the negative of B1 (this would normally connect to the negative of the Run Battery). The positive of the fan motor ( would normally connect to the positive of the Run battery) attaches to the negative of B2. In other words the PC fan is hooked up backwards and in series with B1 and B2. It wouldn't run if hooked up the way you would think it should.
My thoughts were to get the pulses (start / stop) on B1 to let the re-charge take place without all of the sophisticated electronics.
My motor is a traditionally wound PC fan connected to the positives of B1 and B2.
The split positive motor is running just fine.
The The J.B. PC fan is running just fine and I'm collecting voltage in a cap.
B1 has not lost it's charge after 2 hours.
I have not tried to take any additional loads off B2.

Just thought I'd let you know. Thanks for the ride!"
Tony

[ehsanco1062]

This from Toneman. He was having trouble posting.

"I've been following since the beginning and have tested and tinkered. I did switch to the 2 battery set up just to do some simple, quick result tests. One we started with the Stamps and codes this quickly (like a transistor that stuck in off) went over my head and budget. So this is for the guys still playing with 3B's and 2B's;
I noticed that you originally wanted to run your 10 coiler on this system. I'm using a 2B with the negative of my small J.B. PC fan attached to the negative of B1 (this would normally connect to the negative of the Run Battery). The positive of the fan motor ( would normally connect to the positive of the Run battery) attaches to the negative of B2. In other words the PC fan is hooked up backwards and in series with B1 and B2. It wouldn't run if hooked up the way you would think it should.
My thoughts were to get the pulses (start / stop) on B1 to let the re-charge take place without all of the sophisticated electronics.
My motor is a traditionally wound PC fan connected to the positives of B1 and B2.
The split positive motor is running just fine.
The The J.B. PC fan is running just fine and I'm collecting voltage in a cap.
B1 has not lost it's charge after 2 hours.
I have not tried to take any additional loads off B2.

Just thought I'd let you know. Thanks for the ride!"
Tony

Hi Toneman

I am not sure I can follow you can you draw a schematic so we can follow you easily .

Ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

Urgent

Hi Matt

Before I make my first run I noticed that from the block diagram Dave post in his post no #1127 the Fets 2&3 has two wires coming out of their sources one goes to the negative of the battery and the other wire goes to the power board, while in the last schematic you post the updated one in the post No #1211 the fets has only one wire which goes to the negative side of the C1&end of L6 and the other Fet the two wires goes to the negative side of C2& end of L8 there is no wire going to the power board so I am confused which one I should follow ?

Ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

Hi Matt

I have a problem with my photobucket so I change to another program.
These are the schematics I refer to in my previous post.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/Pa..._Numbers-2.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/la...e%20update.jpg
Ehsan

[Toneman]

Ehsan,
This was just to get the pulse effect on the batteries to know that there was time to gain the recharge effect. Putting the pulse motor in tells me where the stop / start/ happens.
The bad part of this arrangement is the bigger razor motor does not turn. You can hear it click faintly so it does complete the circuit. Substitute another PC fan for the Razor and it will turn. I also tried a much larger AC motor and it will also complete the circuit but will not turn.
I next added a common Radio Shack 12V transformer between the Bedini Fan and A1. I connected the 2 yellow wires for 12V (black unconnected). I took the 2 black wires from the AC side and put them on a standard 120AC to 12VDC wall wart. It gave 2.8 volts on the DC side and will strobe an LED.
I wasn't sure if my Bedini could take 24V so I started with the 2B system. It will take the 3B system so I'm going to play some more. I'm not sure if it's practical for anything yet though.
Tony

[Turion]

ehsanco1062,
When in doubt, go with Matt's schematic, not with what I drew up based on it. I probably made a mistake!

Dave

[ehsanco1062]

Ehsan,
This was just to get the pulse effect on the batteries to know that there was time to gain the recharge effect. Putting the pulse motor in tells me where the stop / start/ happens.
The bad part of this arrangement is the bigger razor motor does not turn. You can hear it click faintly so it does complete the circuit. Substitute another PC fan for the Razor and it will turn. I also tried a much larger AC motor and it will also complete the circuit but will not turn.
I next added a common Radio Shack 12V transformer between the Bedini Fan and A1. I connected the 2 yellow wires for 12V (black unconnected). I took the 2 black wires from the AC side and put them on a standard 120AC to 12VDC wall wart. It gave 2.8 volts on the DC side and will strobe an LED.
I wasn't sure if my Bedini could take 24V so I started with the 2B system. It will take the 3B system so I'm going to play some more. I'm not sure if it's practical for anything yet though.
Tony

Thankn you Tony
I see what you mean .
Good luck

Ehsan

[ehsanco1062]

ehsanco1062,
When in doubt, go with Matt's schematic, not with what I drew up based on it. I probably made a mistake!

Dave

HI Turion

I am still confused if you look at the schematic you will see two Dc - DC converter and I know we have four on the board one is not connected so we should have three on the schematic at the same time we have three optocoupler gate driver on the schematic so we have three optocoupler and two DC-DC converter ?

I make all the wiring ok except for these wires from fets to the board I am not sure about them but I will attached the same block diagram you post it and I remove the wires from the source of the fets to the board I appreciate if Matt and you look at it and make the correction for me .

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/Pa...bers-2-new.jpg


Ehsan

[Turion]

Looking at the schematic, I agree that it only shows two DC to DC converters. So something is definitely messed up when you compare it to the block diagram. I thought each DC to DC converter provided power to a different fet, so three fets required three DC to DC converters. It is entirely possible that my understanding of this circuit was wrong. That's probably why I keep blowing things up. Hopefully Matt can take a look and straighten it out.

[Matthew Jones]

HI Turion

I am still confused if you look at the schematic you will see two Dc - DC converter and I know we have four on the board one is not connected so we should have three on the schematic at the same time we have three optocoupler gate driver on the schematic so we have three optocoupler and two DC-DC converter ?

I make all the wiring ok except for these wires from fets to the board I am not sure about them but I will attached the same block diagram you post it and I remove the wires from the source of the fets to the board I appreciate if Matt and you look at it and make the correction for me .

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/88869057/Pa...bers-2-new.jpg

Ehsan

Put the source wires back to the board as drawn. They have to be common. Both Daves diagram and the original schematic have this. You will not switch without it.

In the case of the drawing you can use 2 DC to DC converters. But since you have the driver board you can just use 3 positions on it and an extra DC to DC converter. No harm No foul.

Make sure for the first test runs you power the driver board from a seperate battery. Do not power it from one system as transient may hit the converter and damage the dctodc converter. Later we will add in some safety stuff to stop that.

Matt

[ehsanco1062]

Tank you Matt
Now I know what to do .
I already put a separate battery for the stamp and for the driving
Board.
Thank you again

Ehsan