3 Battery Generating System

[Turion]

That's probably the difference. The caps I am using are 600 volts. I got them because of the huge spikes you can get out of this stuff. And current will take the path of least resistance, so it will dump into the cap before either the inverter or the battery. With only a 20 volt cap, it could just blow right by it and hit the inverter, but it definitely should be wired in parallel.

The most cautious thing to do is probably to charge another battery that is not in the system and run loads off of it.

Dave

[ehsanco1062]

tachyoncatcher,

You're right, I have smoked a couple inverters myself going directly, as well as a voltage regulator that I put between the output and the inverter. That's why I said to go to a CAP first, ..then battery three. The cap can take those spikes and feed anything over 12 volts back into the battery (and inverter) without smacking it.

Dave

Do you think that CAP should be like 250v and above to hold the high voltage spikes from Bedini pulse motor, I have two big capacitors one is 15000mf 100v and the other one is 3300mf 400v which one is butter almost forget I have a big one 1Farad 20v audio cap which one is butter?
I will try two coils at the beginning and then I will increase the the coils if needed but it will be no more than 4 coils that's all I can do the problem is I have basics coils I mean 26AWG for trigger and 24AWG for RUN coil and that want hold for high amperage any body has a suggestion if these coils work ?
Thank you all

Ehsan

Edith:Sorry Dave I didn't read your last post befor I make my post I think you already answer the question about the caps thanks.

[tachyoncatcher]

Makes sense Dave. I have measured spikes over 360v and suspect they are higher. Ill try the Bedini again with the right caps and hope the Bedini self regulates like it does with batteries for the load on bat 3.
Randy

[Turion]

I should have posted ALL of these videos so you could really see what is going on. When you put them together, maybe you will be as excited about this stuff as I am.

In the two videos I am listing below, which were shot about an hour apart (giving the batteries time to rest between runs to see if they would increase in voltage)

Batt 1 started at 12.39........Batt 2 at 12.34..........Batt 3 less than 1 volt
Batt 1 ended at 12.54.........Batt 2 at 12.60...........Batt 3 at over 11 volts, but you can see it dropping like a rock in the video (Man I LOVE THAT!)

In the second video Batt 1 had climbed to 12.58 while resting, so that's where it started. ....Batt 2 had only climbed to 12.62, so that's where it started. These were measurements at rest AND under load when I started the second test. At the end of that second run, Batt 1 ended at 12.73....and Batt 2 ended at 12.65, while running an AC 120 volt electric fan off the combined output of the UFO modified motor's generator connected in parallel with battery 3 to the inverter.

In the third video I forgot to show the ending voltages, but the batteries jump around in voltage like that because of the spikes that are hitting them during the off times as the commutator turns. You can see how much I can pull out of the setup....almost 200 watts, without drawing down on the primaries...although you can't do that for TOO long without a load on the motor or you WILL drain the primaries.

And this is all without putting a load on the motor which INCREASES the output of this system.

UFO motor/ 3BGS - YouTube
UFO/ 3BGS test 2 - YouTube
3BGS Test 3 - YouTube

The two keys to this setup are the UFO modified motor and the AWG battery in the third position that will take a charge, but will NOT hold it. (That dropping like a rock thing I love so much.)

Any way you look at it, this is something special.

[Alocin Alset]

[QUOTE=Turion;206731]
Marduk,
Great news! What size motors are you using for this? Do you have any info on those motors? Model numbers, etc.?
Let us know how it goes.

[Turion]

It is a Razor Scooter Motor MY1016. I took apart two of them to get the second set of brushes and the second commutator out of one.

Here is a video of how to wind the armature. It needs 25 winds around each section, so you have to do what I did in this video 16 times. (with 25 winds going each direction)
UFO Coil Winding for Dummies - YouTube

Dave

[hello_all]

That is great news .. Dave.. Was the idea to run 200 watts for short time or run lower watts for longer time.. You did not mention how long it ran.. UFO motor generator output is also added to inverter I believe .. So definite there is extra energy here ".

[Turion]

I was just experimenting to see what kinds of loads I could run with this...without having to balance with a load on the motor. But I have some bad news. It is NOT working right now.

My UFO modified motor wasn't performing the way it was supposed to. I thought it was fine, but UFO insisted it should have more torque and that something was wrong with the motor, so I took it apart to see what was wrong. There were three things wrong with it. There are four sets of brushes on this motor. (There are two providing positive and two negative brushes on this motor on the motor side....as well as two positive generator brushes and two negative generator brushes on the generator side)

One of the positive power brushes was not making contact. One commutator segment was not connected to its opposite commutator segment because the wire was not adequately stripped. Another armature segment had a broken wire.

When I fixed all these things and put the motor back together, now it is not working with the 3 BGS. I need to do a bunch more testing to see if I can figure out what to do. Perhaps the unconnected commutator segment and broken wire on another armature segment was causing it to act like a pulse motor. Perhaps if I pulse it, I will get better results. I thought it was working fine when I first hooked it back up, but the charge I was seeing on the batteries was a surface charge and wouldn't hold under load. Now that I have had a day to test it, I am not too happy with the results. BUT, UFO always planned for this motor to be PULSED, so I am not THAT discouraged. I was hoping this setup was going to work without electronics, and I could still make a manual pulse connection with a set of brushes, so this is a setback, but hopefully not a permanent one.



Just keeping folks informed.

[Ufopolitics]

Turion...do you ever sleep?...lol

I was just experimenting to see what kinds of loads I could run with this...without having to balance with a load on the motor. But I have some bad news. It is NOT working right now.

My UFO modified motor wasn't performing the way it was supposed to. I thought it was fine, but UFO insisted it should have more torque and that something was wrong with the motor, so I took it apart to see what was wrong. There were three things wrong with it. There are four sets of brushes on this motor. (There are two providing positive and two negative brushes on this motor on the motor side....as well as two positive generator brushes and two negative generator brushes on the generator side)

One of the positive power brushes was not making contact. One commutator segment was not connected to its opposite commutator segment because the wire was not adequately stripped. Another armature segment had a broken wire.

When I fixed all these things and put the motor back together, now it is not working with the 3 BGS. I need to do a bunch more testing to see if I can figure out what to do. Perhaps the unconnected commutator segment and broken wire on another armature segment was causing it to act like a pulse motor. Perhaps if I pulse it, I will get better results. I thought it was working fine when I first hooked it back up, but the charge I was seeing on the batteries was a surface charge and wouldn't hold under load. Now that I have had a day to test it, I am not too happy with the results. BUT, UFO always planned for this motor to be PULSED, so I am not THAT discouraged. I was hoping this setup was going to work without electronics, and I could still make a manual pulse connection with a set of brushes, so this is a setback, but hopefully not a permanent one.



Just keeping folks informed.

Hello Dave,

I am sorry Your Set Up is not working right now!...

Let's just analyze some things here...You have said there were Three (3) things wrong with Motor...So let's look at them again...as you wrote...

1)One of the positive power brushes was not making contact.

Ok Dave this is normal "wear and tear" failure...an overheated brush, got stock or maybe the Pen Spring you had to use instead of original one you lost...remember?

2)Another armature segment had a broken wire.

Ok, this is a loose wire that got out in the rotating area...and got cut by moving and stationary metal parts...this happens when you do not use Hedges between poles...I would add them to "Tear and Wear"...for you...

NOW...

3)One commutator segment was not connected to its opposite commutator segment because the wire was not adequately stripped.

Now, this obvious issue was there since the first time you started this Motor...and all the tests you ran on it...it was a mistake you've made by not stripping the wire insulation when you originally winded this Machine...Right?

Ok, so...In my opinion...try disconnecting that wire again...the Motor will still run great (like before when you did the First Torque test)...And you are completely right...Motor will be sending a "clear" longer period Pulse Off at exactly a constant timing that takes the whole 360 to come back again...

Of course to pulse this "missing coil connection" Machine will stall at lower speeds...but "even up" at higher RPM's like You are doing by feeding it directly from battery...or "Linear Feed"...You are forcing Machine to go from zero to sixty (MAX RPM's) in zero...lol...meaning developing full speed...that is why you did not noticed before...

Hope that could be of help...Maybe that is the "Open Dipole" that needs to be in "harmony" with Bad Battery...I have gotten many weird readings based on just One Wire...that grounded to almost any even "remote" ground will light up a Neon...or an LED...or a CFL...so yes...it could be, and makes sense within Radiant Energy World....

But...start preparing a nice PWM Controller like the one I posted or any other that would stand nice spikes...and a clean square wave...with at least 4 MOSFETS... ...That way you could pulse motor (ANY MOTOR, Not only Mines) and watch behavior on Batteries...I am sure there would be a "Point" where you will obtain much better results as the ones you have achieved so far...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Turion]

The commutator section that wasn't making contact... when I built the motor, that section WAS making contact, which is why the motor ran so well at first. I checked and double checked the continuity of my commutator sections before I put the armature in the motor, so the wire was probably not "clamped" tight enough behind those little tabs that bend over, and turned to where a section with insulation prevented it from making contact. Who knows when THAT happened. But the motor is firing on all cylinders now, and my gauges came in late today, so I can make the tests tomorrow and will make a video. Once that testing is all done, I will stick this motor back in the three BGS and start playing with pulsing it. I have some mosfets that are rated for very high voltage and a driver circuit to run them. It was designed to run them on a tesla switch and will have no problem with the spikes. I can use my stamp to change pulse width so I think I have everything I need.

Dave

[Matthew Jones]

That why I told you to stick in a corner and leave it alone.

[Turion]

Yeah, but I know which brush was stuck, which wire was cut, and which commutator section wasn't making contact. I marked everything and took pictures. So I could put it all back the way it was. And it wasn't working on the 3BGS before I took it apart, so something had changed about the motor, whether it was these connections or the timing or something. I was hoping if I fixed everything wrong with the motor the magic would happen again, but that didn't happen. The video I took of it working shows exactly the way it was wired when it DID work, so that is the wiring setup I am using...the exact same test leads and everything. I charged up the batteries overnight so that I would start with full batteries, because when it worked I started with full batteries and they just went UP from there. I connected it up last night and the motor didn't start. I let it sit there for about 20 minutes and then had to leave to pick up my wife at the train, and when I got back it was running but not charging the primaries. So today I will try starting it up again and see what happens when I put a small load on the motor like I did in the first video. Baby steps....again

[ewizard]

Turion, quick question on you coil winding for dummies vid. I've been out of touch with UFO's thread and most other things here with some priorities but I read when I get the chance and will get back to this eventually. In your vid is that correct that half is wound clockwise and the other half counter-clockwise?
It was shown that way in the vid but it was only mentioned winding clockwise.

[Turion]

That's why I made the video, because I TOO was unclear about how to wind the armature, but that is the correct way to wind it. It matches the drawing EXACTLY and UFO viewed it and said it was correct. I have had MANY conversations with him about how to do this stuff so I don't screw it up too badly, since I wound my first armature three times before it was correct. Also, my motor is running like a champ, so it's correct.

OK, so a little progress today on the 3BGS. I charged the batteries last night. I read the voltages before I started this morning.

Battery 1 at 12.92... Battery 2 at 13.13
Under load 12.70 ................. 12.99

I ran the motor with a tension belt around the motor for a small load, with no load on battery 3 for exactly five minutes

Battery 1 was at 12.69...... Battery 2 at 12.97 .....so slight drop, but not much
After 30 min rest 12.86.............. 13.10 (under load)

So the batteries gained in voltage, which is what I WANT TO SEE. In about 20 more minutes (One hour total rest time) I will go do another run.

As you can see, battery ONE gets the most charge, so I will switch positions of the two primary batteries for the second test run.

Dave

[ewizard]

Thanks Dave - just making notes so when I get the chance I'll be sure it's correct.