3 Battery Generating System

[shylo]

still trying

Hi Dave,
I've been building a new mag rotor ,I'm planning to attach to the primary motor, driven with the 3BGS
And as you know ,the more I load the dead battery , the faster the primary runs.
The problem I'm having is I'm using lead acid batteries.
Also the motor is not pulsed.
Are these 2 of the crucial factors??

When you can run over 300watts of draw,(and that doesn't include the primary) for ~6-8 hours and only lose hundreds of a volt on the charged batteries

Thanks for your efforts and sharing ,It's people like you that make this world worth saving.
shylo

[Turion]

Shylo,
My original setup used a standard motor and AGM batteries. I have had setups work with standard motors, but not for long... Only hours. The only long term setup I have been able to get to work without decreasing the voltage on the primaries has been with a pulsed motor and AGM batteries. You might try the one ohm coil across battery 3 and see what that does for you.

Dave

[harctan]

I found 2 bad batteries (the big ones in the first picture). One rested at 4v and the other at 7v but would go fast to zero when loaded. I only have a small 13.2V motor for now. It would start running immediately. I tried connecting the motor between the positives and between the negatives. I also left them shorted out overnight and tried again the next day but it was the same. Then I opened the plug of one battery and at first it looked like the cotton-looking stuff that Matt said would be in a AMG, but in the photo I took (second picture) it looks more like gell. From what I have understood so far I should probably not bother with those batteries and look for others. Maybe I'm missing something , like the motor is just too small to get an accurate indication or something else?

[Matthew Jones]

This forum is messed up here latly just double posted for no reason.

[Matthew Jones]

I found 2 bad batteries (the big ones in the first picture). One rested at 4v and the other at 7v but would go fast to zero when loaded. I only have a small 13.2V motor for now. It would start running immediately. I tried connecting the motor between the positives and between the negatives. I also left them shorted out overnight and tried again the next day but it was the same. Then I opened the plug of one battery and at first it looked like the cotton-looking stuff that Matt said would be in a AMG, but in the photo I took (second picture) it looks more like gell. From what I have understood so far I should probably not bother with those batteries and look for others. Maybe I'm missing something , like the motor is just too small to get an accurate indication or something else?

You can try the Gell we haven't tried a confirmed Gell it may work as well.

To get the motor start put a small 12 volt bulb or a 1 ohm coil or something across batt3 to get it running. Put the motor between the negatives for starters anyway.

Matt

[harctan]

Let me clarify a little more. The motor starts as soon as i connect it. I don't have to put any load to batt3 to get it started, although it has no problem starting this way also. On the very first post Dave said that if the motor starts immediately then the battery is not suitable. When I connect it the voltage jumps to 12-13V and slowly stabilizes to 8-9V, which is not the behaviour we are looking for, if I've understood correctly. Whether I put the motor between positives or negatives makes no difference on this.

[Turion]

harctan,
The only problem with the batteries you have is that the effect we are looking for probably won't last very long, if at ALL. The "dead-er" the battery, the longer the effect will last. When you connect up the setup and it DOESN'T start up, this means you have a "better" battery to see the effect before the 3rd battery starts getting charged and the effect goes away. Now that doesn't mean you WON"T see it, but I was trying to make SURE folks had a setup that would show them what I wanted them to see, because if they tried it and saw NOTHING, they would think I was full of crap and give up on it. I just want to make it clear to you that with the batteries you are using you may see NOTHING. But then if that's a gel cell, we have no idea WHAT you will see. I do know that by putting a one ohm coil across battery three you may have a better chance of it working for you, and we want you to be successful. So give it a try. NUT if you do runs of over 30 minutes, your primaries may NOT recover. It could take up to 24 hours for them to recover from a 30 minute run. It just depends on how "good" your bad battery is.

Dave

[harctan]

I had it running for 2 hours yesterday with a small load on the motor and on batt3. The primaries were drawn down ~0.3V each and after a day they didn't recover. Batt3 took a bit of charge which I drained. I will try to get my hands on more batteries and a bigger motor but until then I will try again with what I have. The 1 Ohm coil, is it just a piece of wire of 1 Ohm looped around and connected across the terminals of batt3 as a load? If it is discussed somewhere please just point me to the page more or less. I can also pulse the motor with a 555 timer. Any suggestions on the frequency and for how long to let it run?

Peter

[Turion]

For my one ohm coil that is working, I used 200 feet of #20 AWG wrapped around a 3/4 inch core of welding rods.

If you are going to pulse with a 555, try a 50% duty cycle to start. Decrease the off time from there.

With the battery 3 you have, I wouldn't run it more than 30-45 minutes, because chances are it WON"T recover with that battery. Also, if you have a meter, look at the spikes that are hitting your batteries and then switch the wires on your motor. USUALLY you will get MUCH higher spikes if your motor is running in a clockwise direction (with the shaft of the motor pointed straight at you) but you will definitely see a major difference when you switch the wires and you want the highest spikes you can get. I will get 18 volt spikes one direction and over a 1000 volts the other direction.

Dave

[harctan]

I don't have any #20 wire right now, but I have a couple of bifilar coils with smaller gauge wire at about 3 Ohms. I only have a small scope (DSO Nano v2 [TOL131B2P] - $89.00 : Seeed Studio Bazaar, Boost ideas, extend the reach) which I just got and I'm not sure if it would be able to show me any spikes. Also I'm reluctant to use it for HV spikes. I'm currently recharging the primaries so I'll do a 30min run tomorrow.

[Turion]

You don't need a scope to see the spikes. A digital volt meter will do it. An analogue meter will give you an average, but the spikes freak out the digital meter and you will see it jumping all over the place as those high voltage spikes go through it.

Dave

[harctan]

I did a 30min run today. I made a ~1ohm coil with #26 wire and 1/2 intch welding rods core which I had connected across batt3. The motor was connected between the negatives, was spinning clockwise and was pulsed by a 555 timer at about 125Hz and 60% duty cycle. Resting voltages for batteries 1,2,3 were 12.90V, 12.82V, 3.05V respectively. Batt3 was shorted out up to 45min before the test run and would probably go to more than 4V had I let it rest longer. During the run my digital multimeter did not show any rapid fluctuations in voltage. The primaries were steadily going down. I hooked my scope across the motor and could see spikes of 60-80V as in the picture below. After 30min voltages under load were 12.64V, 12.57V, 0.06V. It's been 4 hours now and the primaries are stable for a long time at 12.87V and 12.78V while batt3 has slowly climbed to 4.21V

[Turion]

Would the setup start without batt 3 being shorted by the coil? If it would, then batt 3 is probably not going to work for you, unfortunately. If you never did that test, you would need to short out batt 3 and let it set for a couple days before trying it.

[Duncan]

a new era, a new view,

I would like to point out to all researchers and readers of this thread that its very near an world changing conclusion.... That’s my hope
I would like to draw your attention to what I suspect may be happening and being advanced here with a succession of COP>1 devices that work, Not very well because they are “not tuned”
loading a motor obviously alters speed and hence frequency. for in the zone read "tuned"
First consider these systems here's Ossie's of course knowing what we now know of batteries this becomes possible and viable.
http://www.fluxite.com/WorkingRadiantEnergy.pdf
Here's a radio Ham system used for charging batteries since the 1930s
http://www4.zetatalk.com/docs/Batter...arger_2006.pdf
Here's a modern version
Free electricity - YouTube
So not very much power available and so you all ignore the systems …. well you do don’t you?
Wrong move The powers available you haven't tuned the circuit or the antenna to it so you can't expect much really can you?
What might an antenna look like that receives free energy ? Well I guess anything can be tuned I've transmitted using a wire fence as an antenna before now . But here's Henry Morays antenna

here's Tesla's

http://www.google.co.uk/url?source=i...rjV0IRcqQfplvQ

Here's yours

So for an antenna to work any radio ham will tell you it needs to be resonant to a wave or part there of. Sooo Is it possible for a Lead Acid battery (Oops sorry what once was a lead acid battery) to be resonant ? Here I try to demonstrate that it is the case
The video Initially was never intended for open forum and so there isn’t much Hollywood about this whilst I slurp my Christmas wine still....
I'm actually doing this LC Resonance Oscilloscope Demo - YouTube but with only the battery in circuit . I'm sure you'll quickly get the gist of what I posit here and of course the significance.
3bs - YouTube of course what I am demonstrating here needs duplication and chemical explanation
There are conditions of that battery that are obviously key, At the moment I wait for the permission of a third party who has elected not to appear on this thread, before I can advance that area .
However I would think there's enough food for thought here already … isn’t there ?
We enter a new age .. Happy New era
Best wishes everybody

[harctan]

Yes, the motor would start immediately whether the battery was unloaded, slightly loaded or shorted with the coil. I had both batteries shorted for two nights in a row but the voltage would eventually go back to around 4.5V. I didn't expect them to work since they're probably gell cells but it was worth a try. Tomorrow I'll go searching for more batteries, maybe I'll get luckier.