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I don't know, what terminology to use. I just know how to make them so I say they are generated. Its an arrangement that makes them, like the arrangement in generator.
A couple pages back, and I think even before that, I showed a schematic of the way to wind a pulse motor that Matt designed for use with the Tesla Switch project that we have been using here. It is basically two coils, with off time. We actually put two commutators on the motor (one on each end) so we could run the supply voltage through brushes on one commutator to the brushes of the commutator on the other end and change on and off times. It is an MY1016 Razor scooter motor. I'm going to work on changing my "signature" here in a few minutes and put in relevant links to YouTube videos. I will make one of that schematic folks will be able to see.
Dave
“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist
...I'm going to work on changing my "signature" here in a few minutes and put in relevant links to YouTube videos. I will make one of that schematic folks will be able to see.
Great idea
[fyi "permalink" is the way to embed links to specific posts]
Here are two videos on taking apart an AGM to do some experimenting. I wore GLOVES and a breathing MASK and SAFETY GOGGLES to work on this stuff and would advise you to do the same. 3BGS AGM Battery - YouTube 3BGS AGM Battery 2 - YouTube
Neither of these worked out for me.
This next one did!! 3BGS AGM Battery 3 - YouTube
I will purchase some more just like it so that all 3 of my batteries are the same.
Now I can start the process of drying out the battery and seeing if I can "create" a bad battery.
Dave
“Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
—Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist
Hi All, I finally got around to trying a few different things with the brushes in the primary motor. I cut holes in the side of the motor so I could insert wires.
I had a meter connected to the battery to watch voltage and I conneted another meter to leads that I put in contact with the commutator.
As the motor ran you could see the voltage drop, slow but steady, but when I put the other wires in some spots show quick drain, some no change ,and the best of all was at certian location the battery voltage was going up
It was hard to keep the wire in the sweet spot (just holding them by hand).
I think this is where the spikes originate ,and the right dead battery collects them.
I was only using one battery and one motor in this but did see the battery voltage going up instead of down
@Dave do you still have your original motor from the original set-up, if so could you please give the spec's?
Thanks shylo
I've seen the 3BGS thread mentioned on the Yahoo Bedini groups and on the new forum, but could never find it. Didn't know what it was..... Go figure.
After seeing the back and forth with Mr. UFOPolitics, I finally found the thread here and read the first 26 pages, and the last few pages. I watched the videos referenced in the early pages.
Other than the circuit diagram on page three and another diagram a bit later -FET thing?? - I can't see any of the other diagrams spoken of.....(where do I get the magical decoder ring??)
The links to the videos embedded in Dave's signature work for me. (I have some questions about how that motor is wound, but that'll wait until I come up with a couple more motors and can do another dual commutator thing.)
I've several deep cycle batteries from 100AH to 670AH, and a couple of pretty sick ones (a 17AH & a 100AH) that should work for this project. Found a couple of DC motors, too.
So, if someone would be kind enough to send me links or drawings, I'll get to it. Else, I'll go as far as I can with what I have. (Cold outside, anyway.)
Thank'ee, and Happy New Year!
glen
Tip: Find out who in your local area maintains the radio tower sites. These all have battery backup systems in them. You may be able to get used deep cycle batteries from them for free. The North Star NSB 100 FT, 100AH, sealed LAB really stinks and should make a good 'dead' battery. (The NSBs are a rebuilt jobber.)
Another place to get decent deep cycle batteries is your local electric utility service center. Most substations have batteries for controls and backup. They give them away here in my part of West Virginia. Over in Ohio, they get paid for them, so you have to pay the scrap price. (Oooops, now you know where I live! Glad that I didn't say the Charleston area!!)
It'll take some digging, but both good and bad batteries can be had.
One more thing: While dumpster diving, I have scrounged several 48VDC chargers. Some were working when removed from service. I offer these free to anyone who wants to come get one, or a couple, or three. Or to anyone who wants to pay the shipping. (No, I haven't checked yet. Figure 12x12x20 at about 50 lbs for a ball park figure.) Primary voltage is 120/240 vAC.
Glen,
Connect pos of bat 1 to neg of bat 2. Pos of bat 2 to pos of bad bat. Neg of bad bat to one side of motor. Other side of motor to neg of bat one. That's the basic circuit. You may have to switch connections on motor to get highest spikes out of setup. Anything I can do to help, let me know, and thanks for the info on battery sources. I will be all over that!! It will work until the bad bat begins to charge. The goal is to somehow figure out how to keep batt 3 from gaining a charge.
And welcome!! Good to see somebody else giving this a shot.
Dave
I wonder if one of you guys running a machine COP>1 would be so kind as to try holding a small magnet in your hand near the battery and see if you can feel a slight vibration ? I'm not sure if its motor vibration playing tricks with my limited senses
Whatever you can do,or dream you can,begin it.Boldness has genius,power and magic in it.Begin it now.
Hi Dave ,you have reversed the connections? Original is +Bat#1 to motor,-to the + of Bat#2, negative of 2 to negative of #3, and positive of #3 to the other side of the motor.
shylo
I tried to open a small motor but seems welded
Regarding winding Turion from up to down you wound the coil yes? on one side of the armature? If I began 101 turns on bottom to up still works?
Thanks
Glen,
Connect pos of bat 1 to neg of bat 2. Pos of bat 2 to pos of bad bat. Neg of bad bat to one side of motor. Other side of motor to neg of bat one. That's the basic circuit. You may have to switch connections on motor to get highest spikes out of setup. Anything I can do to help, let me know, and thanks for the info on battery sources. I will be all over that!! It will work until the bad bat begins to charge. The goal is to somehow figure out how to keep batt 3 from gaining a charge.
And welcome!! Good to see somebody else giving this a shot.
Dave
Thank you very much. I'll be wiring this up this morning.
Another tip: Large battery chargers, like the LaMarche float chargers, are a good source of transformers, capacitors, diodes, wire wound resistors, and so forth. Also, check with companies who have large IT departments. The UPS systems are a great source of FETs and stuff. You might get these for hauling them off. (I do.)
I tried to open a small motor but seems welded
Regarding winding Turion from up to down you wound the coil yes? on one side of the armature? If I began 101 turns on bottom to up still works?
Thanks
Winding what motor? It's hard to follow your question... Here is the winding pattern.
You will find a pdf, attached to this post that explains the building of the pulse motor that a few of us have built and had success with. This is a simple project that can be done for under $50 US (EBay). If you don't mind the scrap yard, you may find everything you need there. This is specific to the MY1016 Razor Scooter Motor. Any deviations from that and you are on your own. Please don't ask. We will be happy and delighted to answer any question regarding this specific construction. This motor is Matt's design and replicated by myself and a few others. We are getting some phenomenal results. Build it, put meters on it (try) and you will see what I mean.
Good Luck with your build.
Randy
Thank ya'll again for letting me join the fun. I appreciate it.
I followed Dave's insturctions using 2 ea. 6 volt/200AH batteries seriesed for B1 and B2. A 12 volt/100AH North Star was used as the bad battery.
The North Star recovered to display an apparant voltage of 5.18 after being shorted with a piece of #2 welding cable. The original voltage was a shade over 7 vdc. B1 measured 11.71 vdc. B2 measured 11.35 vdc. B1 & B2 were measured after being used to test a big FET bank on a UFO coil. (Didn't play very well. Too much current into a 1 ohm coil. Did melt a bit of insulation, though.
The motor is permanent magnet type, 0.4 hp @ 90 vdc. It is from a treadmill and has a heavy belt-pulley/flywheel on the shaft. (Does this qualify as enough load??)
I hooked her up and off she went!! Surprised me! So I jumped up and looked all over the basement for something to use as a 12 volt load. Came up with one of those high candle power lights that you can hang on your vehicle. Placed that over the outputs on the bad battery and boy did she squeal. Sounded like rusty hinges in the dead of night. The light never got bright, only an orange glow which eased on and then eased off.
That thing would screach and the motor would speed up and slow down. The voltage was climbing a bit on the bad battery (B3), so I scrambeld and hooked up a Bedini wheel. That thing is 5 strands of 22 gauge wire @ 200 feet in length. That slowed the B3 charge a bit and is putting out 18 vdc to the charge bank.
'bout that time there was stomping up above, so I knew that it was time to go upstairs and explain the nasty, burnt rubber smell and maybe have some lunch.
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