3 Battery Generating System

[shylo]

poles

Thanks Matt, for the clairification on connections.
I don't understand the magnet polarity concern though?
When the motor is assembled the brushes are dead center on the magnets, so 2 are north,2 south. When connected to the supply, the brushes are 2 positive ,2 negative ,all are 180 deg. offset.There is a +brush at 0 deg., a -brush at 90 ,a + brush at 180, and a -brush at 270.
Is the concern with which way the coils are wound? If so isn't it just a matter of reversing the supply leads?
Sorry I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
As for what Dave said about winding as much as possible, should I just wind another 50 over top of the first 50 ,and hook them as bifilar, or try it as is first,...I'll try both
shylo

[wantomake]

So much to plan and build

Thanks All,

@Tachyoncatcher,

Yes, and that eludes me so far. The "load" on #3 is too small. I have (2) 50 watt dc bulbs there in series but parallel to battery 3. I noticed the primaries would drop slowly and battery 3 would go up or down.
I've seen how hard the balancing is, but not having the right motor there is important. (now I see.) I did receive the My1016 today and got it ready to wind. The wire should be here Monday.

@Turion,

Looking at the setup you have, I do need more lights!! I'm going to build a setup similar to that with switches to balance that side (#3) of the system. Of course this may change as the system needs to.

I misunderstood the 3BGS battery generating system circuit from the beginning. The load on #3 is not part of the circuit, because I thought the lights needed to be in parallel with #3 to be part of the circuit.
But only the motor (MY1016) is part of the circuit. So nothing can be between the motor and #3 or the motor and primaries? I was thinking of placing a PWM to control the rpm's and drive a IM above stated speed to produce household AC. If this isn't possible, I have solar power with a bank of batteries that need charging during low or no solar hours.

But first things first. I just want to get the system balanced so the primaries will be steady or charge up. So the "runs" you stated can last long enough to satisfy a need- electrical, mechanical, killer robot, etc.

So much to plan and build,
wantomake

[Matthew Jones]

Thanks Matt, for the clairification on connections.
I don't understand the magnet polarity concern though?
When the motor is assembled the brushes are dead center on the magnets, so 2 are north,2 south. When connected to the supply, the brushes are 2 positive ,2 negative ,all are 180 deg. offset.There is a +brush at 0 deg., a -brush at 90 ,a + brush at 180, and a -brush at 270.
Is the concern with which way the coils are wound? If so isn't it just a matter of reversing the supply leads?
Sorry I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
As for what Dave said about winding as much as possible, should I just wind another 50 over top of the first 50 ,and hook them as bifilar, or try it as is first,...I'll try both
shylo

The motor has too turn clockwise as you face the shaft end. If it isn't your not going to get anything out of it.
Remember it moves slow with low voltage. Thats for reason, so you can see what your doing. It will speed up with higher voltages but you have to have a recovery system in place or you'll burn up.
I had mine running on 140 +- volt at 19000 rpms. No heat and no spark. No consumption...

Be careful

Matt

[tachyoncatcher]

Thanks Matt, for the clairification on connections.
I don't understand the magnet polarity concern though?
When the motor is assembled the brushes are dead center on the magnets, so 2 are north,2 south. When connected to the supply, the brushes are 2 positive ,2 negative ,all are 180 deg. offset.There is a +brush at 0 deg., a -brush at 90 ,a + brush at 180, and a -brush at 270.
Is the concern with which way the coils are wound? If so isn't it just a matter of reversing the supply leads?
Sorry I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer.
As for what Dave said about winding as much as possible, should I just wind another 50 over top of the first 50 ,and hook them as bifilar, or try it as is first,...I'll try both
shylo

@shylo,
Your magnet, brush configuration is good. Your rotor is smaller than the MY1016, so you will have less length of wire than we do. I'd try it the way you have it first, you can always add the second winding later. Baby steps.
Randy

[tachyoncatcher]

I had mine running on 140 +- volt at 19000 rpms. No heat and no spark. No consumption...

Be careful

Matt

Wow, you got something different there. I tried 48v and thought about frying bacon on the thing.
Randy

[Turion]

tachyoncatcher,
That's why Matt mentioned the recovery system. That output power from the motor is more, the higher the input voltage. There comes a point that without the recovery system it all gets converted to heat in the system and you start to cook things...like your wires.

Dave

[shylo]

the noise

It wasn't the ball bearing making that noise because Matts motor is making the same sound. The sound is intermitent, when present the voltage climbs on all the batteries, but when it stops the voltage drops to a lower value before it started to climb.I only notice itwith a small load added after making connections not big enough to start the motor.
Has anybody else seen this??
Been running for 5 hours now trying to balance things ,not having much luck, the primaries are getting low ,shut down and recharge.
Thanks for the help...shylo

[Turion]

I hadn't noticed, but will be looking for that noise from now on. I don't have the best hearing in the world. Shot guns too often when I was younger without ear protection, so now I'm paying the price.

Dave

[wantomake]

Was this the same

@shylo

There was a noise coming from inside the ufopolitics motor before it would finally start running. I thought this was like resonance when a torrid will buzz with the right setup. With the same symptoms you posted. Curiosity drives exploration and experimentation.

So to make sure there wasn't a short anywhere or something else, I checked continuity inside the armature and found a short. After repair the sound stopped. Had no noises since then. Don't know if this answers a question or not. Sorry.

Happy experimenting,
wantomake

[Turion]

wantomake,
That is some very interesting data. And you said that you were getting charging of the primaries when you heard this noise?

The reason I ask is because I got some amazing results with my UFO motor during one run that I video taped. The primaries climbed rapidly during the run cycle and continued to climb once the setup was shut down. I tried with a different motor, everything else exactly the same, and couldn't get it to work that way. So I went BACK to the UFO motor and could NOT get those results again. So I checked the UFO motor and found a coil shorted to the armature. I repaired this, hoping that was the problem, but it has never given me those results since. What you have said makes me think I may have gotten those results BECAUSE I had one coil shorted against the armature...at least during that one test run.

Dave

[shylo]

A short

I get the sound from both motors, the unmodified (stock) is more prominent.
I used the wire I took off the motor ,to wind Matts design, it broke a couple times, so I spliced it togther. In my (Matts design) there is one splice and it is in the last set of windings ,4 turns in, the only way it could short is if the wire around it has bad insulation. Or it could be the insulation on the wire has broken down from being handled..?
The motors go silent and the voltage rest, then the noise starts and the dead bat jumps to the primaries voltage reading (which is higher than the dead one) then the sound continues for(different time lenghts), as it does All batteries increase in voltage.
I was trying to time when the sound was present and not ,it it was too eratic
I want see if you disconnect during sound ,will the batteries maintain the readings.
I was running an intentional short for a while but it only works if the motor is running...this all takes place when the motors are not running.
So much to try , so little time.
shylo

[wantomake]

I think so

wantomake,
That is some very interesting data. And you said that you were getting charging of the primaries when you heard this noise?

The reason I ask is because I got some amazing results with my UFO motor during one run that I video taped. The primaries climbed rapidly during the run cycle and continued to climb once the setup was shut down. I tried with a different motor, everything else exactly the same, and couldn't get it to work that way. So I went BACK to the UFO motor and could NOT get those results again. So I checked the UFO motor and found a coil shorted to the armature. I repaired this, hoping that was the problem, but it has never given me those results since. What you have said makes me think I may have gotten those results BECAUSE I had one coil shorted against the armature...at least during that one test run.

Dave

Hey Dave,

Yes, each time I connected the motor I noticed the noise, but also the voltage started to go up. You mean this was a type of "spark gap" causing the voltage to climb higher?

So the motor got too hot during one of the test runs and must be why the wires grounded to the armature housing. When checking the armature I noticed wire discoloration and wire shims were melted a little. Had to use plastic cause had no high temp ones. Now I know.

Anyway is this something we want to explore? Let me know, cause I put the Ufo motor to rest cause the MY1016 is finished and did a first test run today.

The last few posts back Matthew said something about recovery or the motor will run hot. The my1016 did run very warm after one hour of running. Of course the #3 is close to a good bad battery. And it started as you specified in your post.

Do I need a recovery setup to protect this motor? Then if it's ok to ask, what are you guys using? Or was Matthew referring to something else? This may be the reason the Ufo motor burned the way it did.

Wow, so much to learn here.

Sorry, two different subjects.
wantomake

[Matthew Jones]

We'll put the recovery circuit out after all the bugs are worked out.

Matt

[Turion]

You don't have to worry about Matt's motor running hot unless you are stacking up some batteries in position one and two. He is running it at 120 volts, not 12, so at that high voltage you have to make sure the voltage the motor produces has somewhere to go QUICKLY or it will back up in the wiring and overheat the motor. A battery won't absorb it fast enough, so you need to use some caps in parallel. If you are just running the 3BGS setup you should be fine. Matt and I and some others are exploring some limits with this setup and with this modified motor, so we are doing some things that call for some extra circuits. If they prove out, you'll read about them here.

I've spent the last week or so winding coils for a 12 coil lenz free generator to run with this motor, and it should be done in the next couple days. I worked with a machinist on this project, so it has aluminum rotors with six magnets on each rotor, and is a pretty tight build. Right now I'm working on getting off the shelf coils to work on this generator, so that building it will be a simple process for others once they have the rotors and some other necessary parts. It will all be tested out before we show anything here. When we start posting video of stuff running, you'll know we feel it is worth sharing with others.

Dave

[erfinder]

You don't have to worry about Matt's motor running hot unless you are stacking up some batteries in position one and two. He is running it at 120 volts, not 12, so at that high voltage you have to make sure the voltage the motor produces has somewhere to go QUICKLY or it will back up in the wiring and overheat the motor. A battery won't absorb it fast enough, so you need to use some caps in parallel. If you are just running the 3BGS setup you should be fine. Matt and I and some others are exploring some limits with this setup and with this modified motor, so we are doing some things that call for some extra circuits. If they prove out, you'll read about them here.

I've spent the last week or so winding coils for a 12 coil lenz free generator to run with this motor, and it should be done in the next couple days. I worked with a machinist on this project, so it has aluminum rotors with six magnets on each rotor, and is a pretty tight build. Right now I'm working on getting off the shelf coils to work on this generator, so that building it will be a simple process for others once they have the rotors and some other necessary parts. It will all be tested out before we show anything here. When we start posting video of stuff running, you'll know we feel it is worth sharing with others.

Dave

Can you give any details on this lenz free generator?