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  • Orion,

    I have poison oak on my property and have gotten into that a time or two. So I can relate. ABSOLUTELY no fun!

    wantomake,
    There will be more than enough experimenting and replicating to go around when we get a stable setup that everyone can start with. Promise. And next year when John B has his conference, maybe some of us will be ready to bring what we've come up with and share it with the folks there.

    Dave
    “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
    —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

    Comment


    • thanks ,so i don't have to discharge b3 when the system is at rest.
      p.s.
      after 20 hour of rest b1 and b2 seem have gain more than 1 volt

      Comment


      • gnino,
        Looks like you have a good "bad" battery. LOL Now you're seeing what all the fuss is about. How can you run a motor and end up with MORE in the primary batteries than you started with? That's why we believe this research is so important.

        Dave

        P.S. You can drain battery 3 if you want to, using anything as a load. Then reconnect and charge it up again using this setup. Eventually doing this should restore battery 3. The longer you leave it connected to the system, the better chance of restoring it and the more likely you are to DISCHARGE batteries 1 & 2.
        “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
        —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

        Comment


        • Hi! everybody
          Just finished a 35 minutes run with the 2335 post schematic. Same batteries but not inverter, just dc bulbs of total 40 watts. Had difficulties to balance the system as i have not found the best way yet to do it, so lost 0,4volts for each primary. Good thing though, is the transducers when finished and measured, did not have any gain at all. I think they even lost a bit since the starting point. Buffer battery remained the same and Motor was hot like me!
          A! also another thing i noticed is that transducer 1 flipped polarity somewhere in the middle of the run. When checked after finish was normal again!
          Panos

          Comment


          • Panos, good to see you still working on this. We just need to keep working. It is getting there guys. I'm in the basement all day today doing runs, so just check in here from time to time. Going to shoot some video soon.

            Got my setup running....running exactly 178 1/2 watts worth of AC load off the inverter and 25 watts worth of load off the DC side. Started at 11:30, and we will see how it does after a thirty minute run. LOL. Ran for 29 1/2 minutes and then the inverter kicked off. Transducer #2 had climbed to 17 volts, and the primaries discharged. I have them on the charger right now. Obviously I haven't got this licked yet.

            Dave
            Last edited by Turion; 07-22-2013, 07:07 PM.
            “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
            —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

            Comment


            • Turion - Down to 9 volts

              Yes, that is good enough for me. It suggests that making the batts go "negative" takes place not only on the bad battery, but also possibly one of the good batteries.
              The other alternative is that the bad battery went to minus 15 volts, which although unlikely is still possible. (ie 24 - 15 = 9)
              Either way it's a part of the effect and we need to try and understand it somehow.
              So - more research is needed.
              I suspect that when the bad battery ceases to go negative, then the OU effect ceases as it means that the "bad" battery has become good.

              Comment


              • a.king,
                That is my belief. I think it charges the primaries as long as the bad battery is reversed and you get free power, but the second it flips back, that free power goes away. With my original bad battery I don't believe it flipped back for some reason, which is why the thing went all the way down to 9 volts. At that point the potential difference became too small for the motor to run, and it shut off.

                Randy has shown us a way to bring this setup into balance by adding that reversed second bad battery. Now, the only thing that takes it out of balance is the motor on ONE side of the setup.

                Duncan has gone to great lengths to show us ways to try and balance the thing even WITH the motor on one side, but I believe I MIGHT have an even simpler solution.

                I have run this setup with the motor splitting the positives and gotten good results. I have run this setup with the motor splitting the negatives and gotten good results. Why not run it with TWO motors splitting BOTH the positive and the negative? Or run with a bypass circuit where it runs on one motor on one side for a while and then the other motor on the other side. You can run with one motor as a motor and the other as a generator, and then switch, so one is always running and you are always puling power out of the one NOT running.

                Another possibility is to put a BUNCH of bad batteries in parallel with the two bad batteries a la Ossie Callanan. Give ourselves a big pit that we can't fill up. Anyway, still lots of things to try.

                Waiting for Randy to post his comments about what he has seen on his latest setup. There are things he and I have talked about that are not on his latest schematic update.

                By the way, my one transducer battery that showed.03 volts when I started and went up to 17 volts, is now showing 13.4 volts under load, so it is pretty much "fixed"
                Here is some video of the magnetics testing I did.
                3BGS Magnetics - YouTube

                Note: Transducer two has NOT been run in this setup.

                Dave
                Last edited by Turion; 07-23-2013, 12:14 AM.
                “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                Comment


                • Some info on spark gaps

                  This is taken from a book called Wireless telegraph construction for amateurs by Alfred Powell Morgan dated 1914.
                  It begs the obvious question, "Has anyone tried a capacitor in parallel with the motor?"
                  It was common knowledge in those days that a spark gap was a mhz oscillator when properly configured.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • rash

                    Originally posted by OrionLightShip View Post
                    Thanks for the Frolov link Duncan. It brought something to light for me! No impedance for displacement currents, no resistance, no reactance! Tesla proved it.

                    So why does electron ballasting help? Why did the pliers have a greater effect than the larger pipe? Perhaps because he was holding the pliers, it provided more capacity?

                    I have a theory but; I'll have to work all this out later, the virginia creeper rash is still spreading and driving me insane. From what I have read, this will last for weeks.
                    wow sounds bloody awful Kerry wonder if this may be an answer for it


                    Articles on Hydrogen Peroxide
                    Whatever you can do,or dream you can,begin it.Boldness has genius,power and magic in it.Begin it now.

                    Comment


                    • a.king21,
                      I have not tried a cap in parallel with the motor. Don't know about anybody else.

                      Dave
                      “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                      —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                      Comment


                      • some hints

                        It's just possible if you use a variable air gap cap in parallel with the motor, that you can tune the device looking for resonance.
                        Alternatively you can use a variable cap with a very large resistor in parallel on the opposite side to try and balance the system.
                        In any case the info re spark gaps is useful because the difference between success and failure could be a dirty commutator which causes arcing.

                        Comment


                        • I charged up my primaries last night, and today I ran another test.

                          This time I hooked up several bad batteries in parallel to each of the transducer batteries to see what would happen. I ran about a 21 amp load for an hour, and it drained my primaries, but they SEEM to be recovering.

                          During the run, one bank of transducers (those connected to transducer 1) flipped polarity, as you will see in the video.) In the instant I shut down the system ALL the batteries in transducer bank 2 flipped polarity...and the primaries began to charge up. Just checked, and the voltage in the primaries is now over 12 volts, and the transducer bank 2 flipped back to positive. Bank 1 is still showing a couple volts negative on all batteries.

                          3BGS Transducer Bank - YouTube
                          Last edited by Turion; 07-23-2013, 06:47 PM.
                          “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                          —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                          Comment


                          • Early on

                            Originally posted by a.king21 View Post
                            It's just possible if you use a variable air gap cap in parallel with the motor, that you can tune the device looking for resonance.
                            Alternatively you can use a variable cap with a very large resistor in parallel on the opposite side to try and balance the system.
                            In any case the info re spark gaps is useful because the difference between success and failure could be a dirty commutator which causes arcing.
                            Hey a.king,
                            Tried that a while back. Used anywhere from .1 uf to 1f caps. No good. Stopped the charging of the primaries every time. At the time, I was trying to do what you suggested here. Cause the motor coils to resonate. I had my EE hat on then. Now I have a totally different point of view. IMO electromotive resonance is not the answer.

                            Had a great run last night 1 1/2 hours until I shut it off (bedtime). Primaries stayed up. Ran my inverter with a small load. Made a small change to the grounding and orientation. I will update the drawing as we go along. See my setup running here:
                            3BGS Modified Running
                            Looks promising!
                            Randy
                            Last edited by tachyoncatcher; 07-24-2013, 12:09 AM.
                            _

                            Comment


                            • Hey Randy,

                              Impressive video. Wish I had better luck with good "bad" batteries.

                              I also took the liberty to watch your other videos - Super charger. Would you happen to know the current draw for your Bedini?

                              Cheers, Garry

                              Comment


                              • Turion,

                                Would it be possible to take a specific gravity reading of the 2 good batteries before discharging them in phase 3, again after the discharge test, and once again after recharging the good batteries to max? The more evidence we have, the more convincing it will be.

                                Thanks and good luck.

                                Comment

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