3 Battery Generating System

[wsxian2]

spinning

Turion:
Spinning was easier with the original 3BGS on then it off. But the motor would not turn.
Getting cold here in NM and I may not be able to get more trials done as my workbench is outside.

Found this article:
Spin Battery: Physicist Develops Battery Using New Source Of Energy
Related to spinning magnet in a battery.
"The device created by University of Miami Physicist Stewart E. Barnes, of the College of Arts and Sciences and his collaborators can store energy in magnets rather than through chemical reactions. ....We had anticipated the effect, but the device produced a voltage over a hundred times too big and for tens of minutes, rather than for milliseconds as we had expected, Barnes said. That this was counterintuitive is what lead to our theoretical understanding of what was really going on."

Sound familiar?

[Turion]

Water Pump Test

Twice in the last two days I have attempted to run the water pump test with Randy's configuration (5BGS), simply because I know it will produce the best results. In both cases the motor never started up, the primaries eventually went down, and the Buffer Battery charged up to over 13 volts. Not what I wanted to see. Until I can figure out why the pump motor doesn't come on, I am unable to run an acceptable test. I have a feeling it is one of my transducer batteries that is responsible, so after I get my primaries charged back up and leveled off at the appropriate starting voltages (to match their starting voltages on the previous test) I will give it another shot with a different transducer battery. I have lots of "bad" batteries I can try in that position until I get the motor to run. Just wanted you all to know I am working on it....and a million other things. The issue will be that this will NOT be the same Transducer battery I used for the baseline run, so once I get a working setup, I will run it on the 5BGS and then run it a second time with all the batteries in parallel as I did before so that a things are equal. Which means I still have TWO test runs minimum before I have any results. If it isn't one thing, it's another.

Dave

[tachyoncatcher]

Pump Motor Resistance

Twice in the last two days I have attempted to run the water pump test with Randy's configuration (5BGS), simply because I know it will produce the best results. In both cases the motor never started up, the primaries eventually went down, and the Buffer Battery charged up to over 13 volts. Not what I wanted to see. Until I can figure out why the pump motor doesn't come on, I am unable to run an acceptable test. I have a feeling it is one of my transducer batteries that is responsible, so after I get my primaries charged back up and leveled off at the appropriate starting voltages (to match their starting voltages on the previous test) I will give it another shot with a different transducer battery. I have lots of "bad" batteries I can try in that position until I get the motor to run. Just wanted you all to know I am working on it....and a million other things. The issue will be that this will NOT be the same Transducer battery I used for the baseline run, so once I get a working setup, I will run it on the 5BGS and then run it a second time with all the batteries in parallel as I did before so that a things are equal. Which means I still have TWO test runs minimum before I have any results. If it isn't one thing, it's another.

Dave

Dave,
If you slowly turn the pump motor by hand with a DVM on the unconnected motor leads, what is the highest resistance reading you are getting from the motor's coils? If turning by hand is not possible, then bump the motor by touching the power wires to power for brief moments to get the motor to stop at different points. Ideally we want a reading from a single armature coil, but that may not be possible if the brushes are wider than the brush segments. The fact that it won't start, tells me the pump motor is of a different type compared to the MY1016 motor. Not all PM brushed motors are the same.

Randy

[Turion]

Randy,
Can't turn the pump motor by hand. What I tried to do was briefly connect it to a separate (6th) battery to give it a "running start" before putting it into the system. That didn't work. What I NEED to do is get the setup in place and try a razor scooter motor for a few seconds to make sure everything is working correctly and then sub in the pump motor. That will be my first step.

If that doesn't work, then I will try a straight 3BGS setup with a Razor scooter motor just to see if I can get it to work with a single transducer (sub in the pump motor if it does), and then move on to to your schematic. I still have lots of things to try and have not given up. As a last resort, I will pull the pump apart and see what kind of motor it is using. HOPEFULLY it is a brushed DC motor, but no guarantees, obviously.

Everyone assumes testing this stuff is "so simple" and can't understand why we haven't done a better job of trying to satisfy all the negative folks. This is just one example of why. It isn't as "simple" as everyone would make it out to be.

[Matthew Jones]

Why not just use the pump motor as the load on the buffer (Instead of an Inverter) and use a scooter motor with mechanical load, for the regulator.

Matt

[Turion]

Kiss

As usual Matt, you are right. That's what you suggested the other day, and I should have listened. I can do that if I can balance the pump with a load on the razor scooter motor. I will have to figure out some way to do that. I have been running my razor scooter motor with a set load and using my light board to balance by adding lights to the buffer battery (in Randy's schematic) or to Battery 3 in the original 3BGS. That's an easy way to balance with the flip of a switch. And I LIKE easy, so hoped I could get away with it. I could also measure the output on a kilowatt meter to keep track of energy used. Setting up a mechanical load to balance a constantly running pump may take a little figuring out. Adding mechanical loads to a motor while it is running is not the easiest thing to do, unless it is a friction load, and those tend to wear out quickly and not be as consistent. Anybody have any ideas? I could use one motor to run another motor as a generator and add loads to the generator. That MIGHT work...provided the load of the generator turning is not too much load to begin with. I will mess with it tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

The main reason I wanted to do it the way I had it set up, is that in addition to measuring the water flow, I can ALSO measure the amount of power used to run the lights off the inverter through the kilowatt meter. If I run the pump off battery 3, I have no measure of the mechanical load I am putting on the motor, so if the amount of water the pump puts out doesn't bury my baseline run, no one is going to accept that "the motor was running under a mechanical load" as an excuse. BUT, I could measure the energy used by the pump running off battery 3 with my 12 volt kilowatt meter (I have two of those) in both the baseline and 3BGS tests and compare. Even if they were exactly the same, in the 3BGS I would also have had a motor under load running the whole time ALSO, even if we had no idea how much energy it consumed. Since it is running between two positives the 12 volt kilowatt meter is useless. Like I said, measuring this thing ain't as easy as it sounds.

Right now I'm not even sure if the reason the pump didn't come on was the fault of the pump motor or because one of my transducers is no good. Once I have the answer to THAT question I can take a look at what I need to do. One way or another I'll figure it out, but I appreciate the input guys. Three or four heads are always better than one.

Dave

[garrypm]

This may help those working with the MY1016.

Thought there had to be a connection to the casing.

This was how I was able to motor with one wire to case and one wire to connector.

It may not be clear enough in the pic but, there were 3 caps -

2 x 104 - 1 from each cable
1 x ??? (burned out completely) between the cables.


This may explain why some of us were not getting results.

Cheers, Garry

[Matthew Jones]

This may help those working with the MY1016.

Thought there had to be a connection to the casing.

This was how I was able to motor with one wire to case and one wire to connector.

It may not be clear enough in the pic but, there were 3 caps -

2 x 104 - 1 from each cable
1 x ??? (burned out completely) between the cables.


This may explain why some of us were not getting results.

Cheers, Garry

Your motor had caps in it? Or you added them?

I have never seen caps on that board.

Matt

[garrypm]

That's what the motor had in it.

I've cut them out.

Cheers

[Turion]

garrypm,

Just curious...did you get that motor off e-bay? Maybe someone was trying to build a free energy device with it and modified it. LOL. I have never seen caps in one of these motors either.

Dave

[Turion]

Water Pump Test

I tried the water pump test again this morning with the two transducers and it wouldn't work with a stock razor scooter motor either, so one of my Transducers is no dang good. I'm running a standard 3BGS setup with the water pump right now. It is in the basement, and I can hear it speeding up and slowing down, but it is running steady with a 19 watt load on battery 3 running off the inverter, so I will get to see how many kilowatts get used during the run by the light bulbs, as well as how much water gets pumped. As anyone who has tried to run the 3BGS will tell you, balancing the load on the original system is a PAIN IN THE ASS and TAKES FOREVER, so I am not wasting my morning on it. It is running "ok" right now, speeding up and slowing down, so I know I am in the ballpark, and all I care about is showing that more water was pumped than with the regular setup. I know I will run down the primaries eventually with this setup, but that's ok.

I will try to find a better Transducer so I can run a more accurate comparison, since right now I am running off of two good batteries and one dead one, and don't get the "advantage" of the other dead battery (no advantage) and the buffer battery ( some possible advantage there).

Dave

[tachyoncatcher]

Different

This may help those working with the MY1016.

Thought there had to be a connection to the casing.

This was how I was able to motor with one wire to case and one wire to connector.

It may not be clear enough in the pic but, there were 3 caps -

2 x 104 - 1 from each cable
1 x ??? (burned out completely) between the cables.


This may explain why some of us were not getting results.

Cheers, Garry

Gary, That IS a different animal. What are the two solid wires that go behind the plate? Not all MY1016 motor are the same. There are 2 maybe 3 different manufacturers making these motors. Dave and myself have been using the motor made by Unite. I don't know about the others. My best results have been with the 350watt motor. I am now working with the 280watt, but the jury is still out on that one. The 350watt has become hard to get.
Randy

[Turion]

Water Pump Test, Final

OK, I'm way finished with the water pump nonsense. I ran it off a standard 3 battery 3BGS setup using the two primaries that were at the exact same voltage as the two I started with on the last test, and a bad battery that was even lower than than it was on the last test. I know it was the exact same voltage, because after charging the batteries up on the charger (they charged to a higher voltage the second time because that is what happens to batteries when you run them on this setup) I DISCHARGED them until their resting voltage was the same as it was during the last test. And here are my results.
Water Pump Test, Final - YouTube

I forgot to reset the pump after the first successful run, so this is a total of the two runs. Since the first one was just over 31 gallons, you can see the second run pumped almost TWICE as much water. Now, I was also running an 11 watt bulb and a 7 1/2 watt bulb off the inverter connected to battery 3 during that entire test run, so not ONLY did I pump twice as much water, but I ran additional loads. The primaries were down around 12.2 when I shut the second run down, BUT, as anyone who has run this setup will tell you, they climbed back up in voltage after the run was completed and settled out at 12.51 and 12.56.

I started the same, ran longer, pumped more water, ran additional loads, and ended higher. And I am way DONE trying to prove to people that there is something to this. If you don't believe it, TRY IT FOR YOURSELF. That's all I have been asking all along.

Dave

[citfta]

Way to go Dave!!

You have way more patience than I have. I doubt even these results will convince the skeptical. I really don't care if they believe in this system or not. Those of us that have built it and adjusted it according your directions know what it can do. As far as the skeptics who still doubt I don't care what they think. Thanks for all your efforts.

Respectfully, Carroll

[garrypm]

Spot on guys,

This MY1016 is made by URBANX.

Thick enamel wires seem to link opposite brush. Don't understand - they are
linked also with visible wire on face side of plate - maybe a choke ?

Not easy to undo to check - the pcb is held down not by screws but "punched over posts"

Cheers