3 Battery Generating System

[wantomake]

Please re-read

Wouldn't it be interesting if we established an email list of folks who actually BUILD THINGS so that if someone had a working free energy device they wanted to disclose, they could pop into a local library somewhere and dump the plans to everyone on that list at the same time? I know bringing a working device here to the forum is ONE way to get it out there, but being sure that the plans got out to a lot of folks all at once would be a pretty cool thing to have all set up in advance. People could create an email account JUST to have it listed on that list and not use it for anything else so that it would be fairly anonymous. Yes, they would run the risk of spam and bullcrap being sent to their new email address, but they could block anyone who did that. Just a thought. I know there are some folks who have some things they might want to share some day.

To anyone who wants to be on this "list" that is only an idea at this point.

Please read the part that says "list of folks who ACTUALLY build things ". Knowing how the basic rule is here on this forum that if you replicate then you show proof of your work. Then those that are the inventors or started the thread will help you with your build.

Also there are two types of people that occupy this one planet our home. Those that want to make a difference for this mother earth, preserve what's left of it for our children's children. Take chances even if it is dangerous. Then there are the others that don't believe one person can change any of the above mentioned. Only will sit back and not try anything difficult or hard.

Which are you?

The danger here is not "the powers that be", but coming on this forum and finding educated engineers, smart builders, fully furnished shop owners, and trained specialist who just argue and pronounce you "wrong" or misleading. That's the danger - closed ignorance in brilliant minds.

What a shame.

[Aaron]

MY2016 Matt Motor

Looking back at the closed thread, there are quite a few who bought the MY1016 motor to modify it per Matt's instructions. Too bad not more of them shared long term about their experiments or if they even did the mods.

I just bought 2 of them - the 350 something watt ones. Matt posted somewhere that the only difference between the 250 watt versions is the wire size so they'll work fine.

This is the exact one: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...2F192406184087 only $30 with free shipping. Seller is in Washington state so hope I get them quick.

@Wantomake, you said: "Using 24 awg trifilar connected parallel 100 feet long. 40,30,30 turns on each side of rotor." To clarify, if you have 3 wires paralleled and you wind them together, are you then actually having 120, 90 and 90 turns? If so, they'll act as one larger gauge winding - just want to make sure.

1 pound of 24awg is only $16 something: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...SIN=B007OYG9HS

So grand total for the Matt Motor is $46 for a motor and wire plus effort - that's inexpensive for what it does.

@Matt - although the modified motor goes quite a bit faster for less input, does it have as much torque? Could it drive a scooter? It seems it may sacrifice torque for speed. However, if it is intended to drive a low drag generator, then it is suited for the task in addition to being the proper waveform generator as the load.

I've been looking to test a different motor on the Kromrey and I think this will work perfect for it. Also, to run the Kromrey in this exact same method that you all are doing here is what I've been moving toward but have only had time to do some testing and experimenting with the Kromrey as is.

The current motor is an old DC motor - whatever John put on there. Doing some mechanical work tests, it seems to be about 80% efficient, which is much better that I expected.

I originally wanted a ZFM as the driver since it is a pulsed motor, but short term, just don't have the time to make one in the middle of a big manufacturing project we have going on. Not enough hours in the day.

At the 2016 conference Peter showed his SG with the battery rotator and the low drag gen coils. We wound those Tesla bifilar pancake style but with maybe 10-12 windings in parallel where each top wire is connected to the bottom of the next and so forth - they really work well. So there are obviously various low drag generator methods that can be coupled with the pulsed Matt Motor.

I'll post some pics and/or vids of my motor mod when I get them. Will have to rewatch the vids - not sure if winding direction was specified.

I put out a post about this project you and Dave spearheaded in Energy Times today so hopefully a lot more people will take interest and that there are more builders to will share their work. And a big thanks to all of you who ARE sharing your work here - it is very encouraging!

[Aaron]

sharing work

Turion,
That's an interesting proposal. But how many are willing to actually build this device? How many would need to show actual video proof before some inventor open sourced a working device?

One would need to get these e-mails from individuals and compile that list. How?
Where?
I know of two here on this forum. I'm ready sign me up.
wantomake

Keep in mind that at the Energy Science & Technology Conference, there have been quite a few exclusive disclosures by inventors who have kept their work private for years. They may have shared some openly before the conferences, but kept the magic recipe to themselves.

Jim Murray disclosed the Transforming Generator and Dynaflux Alternator technologies so anyone can replicate them and gave everyone the blessing to do what they want with them - he also included info that was left out of the patents. Paul Babcock revealed how his motor worked to fill in the gaps of what is not in his patent - it is still patent protected, but everyone can learn the principles and apply them in other variations as long as the patent claims aren't violated. Graham Gunderson showed the entire plans on one of his circuits that was barely over 1.0 COP, but that was just to prove the point but it's all fully disclosed.

They didn't wait for others to replicate their work for this to happen - simply, it is just the time to come out in the open about this work and that seemed to be the commonality. Of course they want to share it with people who are genuinely interested such as attendees at the conference or those who get the video presentations later. If others replicate it, great, if not, then they made a huge contribution to the knowledge base anyway. And of course this applies to healing technologies and other categories as well. Just my 2 cents.

[ricards]

Closer look on this, I think the "Bad Battery" can be replaced with a Capacitor with a Transistor (BJT) parallel through a load with a base connected to a zener diode around 12v. or less... that's an easy test for me when I get home.
I also read somewhere in these pages that the bad battery is no longer needed though I might have overlook at what was the replacement for it...

It is really sad to see all the good guys go private....

because of bashing skeptics?..
because of non-building theorist?..
because of closed-minded experts?..
or simply because there are no-one left to communicate with..

Focus

before you go let me share to you a story that probably you can relate..

this thread has been up for longer than my membership on this forum..
though most of the videos are no longer available.. there are traces and steps to follow which links to other threads that contains good informations as well.. it should be good enough for anyone interested..

lastly..

Thank you for the Work that you guys have shared freely...
Have a Blessed New Year to you all..

[BroMikey]

[QUOTE

It is really sad to see all the good guys go private....

because of bashing skeptics?..
because of non-building theorist?..
because of closed-minded experts?..
or simply because there are no-one left to communicate with..
[/QUOTE]

Sounds like something died, no, all the info is here for everyone to read.
The steps the inventors took and they are so far ahead of you and I
that we would only bog them down with our repeats.

Go back and read with faith that you have everything you need and
most of all never give up, never let doubt dominate your posts in some
sort of abandonment stooper.

The mod mtr can be wound with 1 strand or three and I have posted
multiple results for this validation. I am not gone. I will not leave and I
am not a good guy? What?

Wantomake is the best there is here, been at it the longest, tutored
by the inventor himself. What more do you want?

Remember this, action speak louder than words. The inventors have given
away free everything we need to have a working free energy device. I
don't care how grouchy some of them get, they are great souls.

Now once you get your mod mtr wound up with any number of strands
plus other small details that get you thinking radiant mixed with transients
that sends back energy to the run batteries and charge batteries with
huge amounts of mechanical left over, you have the first step.

You have a mod mtr that is a prime mover, spikes the packs gives and
keeps on giving like the inventors who bent over backwards to relate
all of the progress of learning.

Step 2

Either use a battery swapper or use boosters to keep the batteries
balanced out WHEN I REPEAT WHEN STEP #3 is completed.

Step 3

Build a lenz free multistrand series connected Tesla coil generator head
that helps the mod mtr rotate everytime you add one of these coils.

Probable 2 coils and you will have proved that we have all been fed a pack
of lies for generations.

The mod mtr already gives a near 2:1 cop for mechanical rotating
apparatus then as each generator coil is added the the energy generated
also assists the system. Robert Muller showed us how to space out
generator coils so cogging will disappear.

If you follow these steps you will have a cop of 20.

[wantomake]

Parallel connected

Just a update on the 3BGS build.

Did finish the (smallest my1016 razor) modified Matt motor rewind. Using 24 awg trifilar connected parallel 100 feet long. 40,30,30 turns on each side of rotor. Ohms across each coil was at .04.

Pulls 0.7 +- amps without load. With generator(larger size mod. Matt motor) attached with couplings, the amp draw is 2.25. Heat is low after extended runs.
The couplings acts as small decent flywheel. A Drok dc to dc converter powers the prime mover to 18~20 volts. Haven't recorded rpm's yet.

All this information to replicate is already posted here and other threads.

I smoked first Drok converter by overcharging #3 and inverter batteries.

Comment please if you are building.
wantomake

Aaron,
Sorry I shouldn't have used the term trifilar. It was three wires run parallel and connected together at each end. Trifilar means connected where one wire ends to another that begins. My bad. I followed Matt's videos very closely and got close to the amperage he reported.

Sorry and hope this clears it up. There is only enough room on the rotor for the 100 feet of three wires. Also did the 40,30,30 turns on each side.

wantomake

[Turion]

Understanding

It looks like the rock is finally rolling down the hill. There are a bunch of real stubborn people who best get out of the way. With more and more people building looped systems that they are pulling energy out of, it becomes harder and harder for the critics to explain this away. It has always amused me, and often frustrated me MORE to have working systems running on my bench while people with “experience” explained why my conclusions were wrong and I wasn’t seeing what I was looking right at.

But here’s the thing, and I have been saying this for a long time, but nobody has heard me. Maybe a few will hear me now, and years from now they will remember this. Because just maybe this is the right moment in history: The understanding we gain from WORKING 3 Battery Systems will fundamentally CHANGE our understanding of how electricity works and how we utilize it in our machines. Period By the end of 2018 you will have seen some amazing things.


1. The 3 Battery System requires a PULSE to work. The original diagram John B showed, which is a way to charge batteries that ham radio operators used in the 40’s and 50’s, won’t get you there without that pulse. No matter HOW hard you try.
2. It requires LARGE deep cycle batteries to eliminate as much resistance as possible.
3. It requires LARGE wires as short as possible
4. It requires at least 2.5 volts over the battery voltage and a PULSE to keep the batteries charging properly. So running four six volt batteries in series as your top end and 2 six volt batteries at the bottom DOESNT get you what you want.
5. The generator run by the motor should have coils wound to output 2.5 volts minimum above the batteries in series. Rewind to reduce the voltage to what you need, and increase the amps output.
6. Pull a load on battery three to keep it from charging too fast.
7. The load on the motor should be constant and you balance by adding or subtracting from the load on battery three.
8. If you read the beginning of this thread, I used to say I would add a small load to battery 3 and the motor would speed up (because you are pulling more amps through the motor by adding that load.) Then wait FIVE minutes. If the two are in balance the motor will speed up AGAIN, and that is when you know you are balanced. When the system is NOT balanced, either battery 3 will slowly go down or the primaries will. If battery 3 is going down, your load on it is too big. If the primaries are going down, the load on Battery 3 is too small. One thing you can use as PART of the load on battery 3 is another motor turning a generator controlled by a motor controller or potentiometer with really fine adjustments.

[ron48]

Happy new year to dave and family. Plus to all the others that share daves wishes. I am no builder just a disabled wanna be. No understanding of electricity as is a scarey thing so i guess you could call me a lurker but have great respect for serious builders that don't go by what electrical engineers say has to happen. All my best wishes ron

[wantomake]

Happy New Year Ron. There's only 2 hours left in 2017 here on east coast. Not sure what 2018 will reveal. Don't want to be on this forum anymore. Haven't decided yet.

Will see what happens this next year.

wantomake

[wantomake]

Good outline

Thanks Dave for good outline or summary of the 3BGS.

We've been stuck in 32° weather for few days and for next week or so. Not sure if can heat the ole shop or the battery bank in this cold.

Also will connect a buck converter to the system when it gets here Jan. 3rd.

Happy New Year and let's hope for good and prosperity for this time ahead.

wantomake

[ron48]

Thanks wanttomake already afternoon in the land downunder hope you still stay around love reading posts from descent people ron

[wantomake]

Love your Country

Thanks wanttomake already afternoon in the land downunder hope you still stay around love reading posts from descent people ron

Ron,
If I can be of any help here then it will give me a reason to stay.

I've always loved the land downunder. You are in summer now correct? We are in the heart of winter and it will be close to freezing for a week or so.

I just may need to stay here to keep from going crazy during these cold slow days. My wife's family is in Japan so you may be same time period as they are.

We also have some Finnish born Australian friends that are full time missionaries in Japan, S. Korea and Okinawa. I have visiting your country on my bucket list. We'll be back in Okinawa this year in June for oldest daughter's high school reunion and to visit the church we planted there.

Wife's mom is getting up there in years so all our girls(3) will come with us to see her. Our girls grew up in Okinawa.

Sorry just drinking hot coffee and musing on this new year.

If you want to build this setup, let me know how I can help. I know it's not cheap but worth every penny. Which I just read you guys don't use any more.

Have a good year.
wantomake

[wantomake]

Balance?

BM,
If you have a lenzless generator, two boosters in place, and correct size load, then there should be no decrease in battery bank voltages.

Balancing the system according to the output of the generator. At least that's worked for me. This week I'll be adding a buck converter to get some better performance, if done correctly. It was 12° F this morning, so this freezing weather will slow things a few days.

One thing I learned is not to depend on the battery bank power, but rather the generator and components output.

Get a good balance to maintain a steady not decreasing battery voltage. That's the goal of this system. Operate a system inside the system.

Use the Force Luke.......
wantomake

[wantomake]

Not normal for SC.

BM,
This cold is very early for upstate SC. We usually get this cold around end of Jan. and start of Feb. Had snow already and we may get one snow a year if lucky. Unlucky. Let's not compare cold weather experiences. I was stationed for two years in upstate New York 30 miles from Canada !!!! -40 below with the wind blowing across Lake Champlain. It had to warm up to snow. Haha

Yes I feel your pain with the the coil winding. I've been testing coils with cores or without and different number of wires- single, bifilar, trifilar, all the way up to 12 wires in parallel or worse and more difficult, the parallel series connected wound coils. And being self-taught in this electronic field, the capacitance, induction, or conduction of coils is a science all to hard to understand unless you have hands on testing.

https://artojh.wordpress.com/2012/08...i-filar-coils/

Above site is where I studied about multi-filar windings. I can't teach just suggest an idea or way.

I even tried a 6 filar wire in parallel winding on a Modified Matt my1016 motor. Yes it was only a few turns per side and took 6 amps to run it. But for some reason it ran high rpm's and charged the #3 up very fast. But heat got it very quickly. But I repented and went back to exact modification specs that pulled exact .07 amps no load. And 2.3 to 2.8 amps with generator coupled to it. Motor wise I understand to winding specs now.

The generator is a different coil and challenge. The lenzless effect is placement/number of magnets and coils. That wheel chair genny has 32 magnets around the stator, but the rotor has one less(forgot will check) or one more rotor pole that only lines up four poles at a magnet at a time. You can spin it with little effort. The complete one will produce 70 +-VDC with enough amperage to charge 10 marine battery bank at low rpm. I did that with an old Briggs and Stratton 5 hp 90% water 10% gas fumes. The neighbors called me crazy since that day. So I refitted (not a secret) the carburetor on a tiller and tilled the ground in front of my shop with gas fumes only. I got crazy looks but a lot of respect after that. Just needed proof that gas fumes will produce hp too.

Wow a little off subject there,
wantomake

[Turion]

Update

Wantomake,
If you guys are really ready to start building Lens free generators, and I think a couple of you might be, how much have you read about generator construction and the things folks in the past have learned? Like EVERYTHING else, this has all probably been done before and was lost or suppressed. But the info is out there if you search. And if you guys read you might run across something new that I have NEVER seen before. That kind of research led me to the Tesla patent and an understanding of what it took to get a coil to speed up under load. So it's worth it.

You are dealing with trying to saturate a core at the precise moment you want it to become saturated. The rotor magnet is attracted to the coil core to pull it in, and then suddenly the core achieves the saturation it SHOULD have gotten that created an electromagnet and repelled the APPROACHING magnet. But the magnet is already aligned with the core, so now that electromagnet pushes it away. Delayed Lenz. If you can't beat it, USE it. it really isn't "Lenz free" you just postpone the inevitable until the right time.

How do you CONTROL when that happens? I started a thread called “Your basic Coil to discuss all the things I’ve learned and to get a group of folks turning a specific size rotor with a specific number of magnets on it at a specific rpm, and do some coil testing. But the **** birds dumped all over that thread and I don’t feel like wasting my time, so I abandoned it. But for the record, here are things you better look at if you want to be successful. So how DO you control it?
Speed of rotor
Number of Magnets on rotor
You control the capacity of the coil with the correct length of wire. A HUGE single wire coil will do it.
Multiple strands wound in parallel and connected in series per Tesla will do it with smaller coils

Is that it? Is that the ONLY thing about your coil you can change? How about length of the core? A long core will take longer to saturate. A REALLY long core will take a REALLY long time to saturate. What are the pros? What are the cons? What is a happy medium?

If you have all North or all South Magnets on your rotor, you can put a really weak magnet on the back end of the core and induce the wrong polarity in the iron so it takes the strong approaching magnet extra time to reverse that polarity and charge the iron. How strong a magnet? How far away? Does it even work? People have done it. Should you waste your time trying? Testing all this crap takes HUNDREDS of hours. And then people tell us we don’t know what we are talking about?!!!!
(Ranting again. Not posting here is soooo much better for my blood pressure!)

So think about this...how many generators have you EVER seen that run long term, and I mean constantly for days to provide power (which is what you WANT, right?) that were made with coils like we are talking about making right now? If you've seen one that was a COMMERCIAL generator, I'd love to see a picture. It is probably OLDER than I am by a ways. And that's freaking old! How many of you have ever run ANY kind of home made generator like this long term? Even one with just ONE coil running for a couple weeks or a month. (And I'm NOT talking about a Bedini machine, because YOU pulse those coils with electricity. They are NOT pure generator coils.) What happens? If you don’t know, are you REALLY ready to build a generator?
NO generator uses these kinds of coils. NONE!! And what is the reason for that?

I will give it to you in ONE word. HEAT. Constantly fluxing the iron core of these coils will generate enough heat to MELT the insulation off your magnet wire. And suddenly your beautiful coil that allowed the generator to speed up under load is a $37.00 (That's what each of my coils costs, and I can give you the cost breakdown) pile of worthless slag. The first time that happened and I lost 12 coils, I about cried. And then it happened again. It took two times before I figured out what the problem was and realized I couldn't run my generator for long periods of time with the coils I had. So what good was it? Which is why I built a separate coil testing machine so I can run a rotor past a single coil LONG TERM and see the results. So all of the data I have collected on iron cores goes right out the window when you begin to realize they WON'T work. Attached is a picture. It's not award winning, but it makes me cringe every time I look at the object of the photo, because I know how many hours of work that represents, and how much WASTED material. Do I know what to use? Got a pretty good idea at this point. Which brings me to the LAST variable I want to talk about which you won't get to for a while, and that is DENSITY of core material. I haven't talked about any of this before, because nobody was ready to build a generator. It impacts how quickly the material absorbs the magnetic flux. Fairly CRUCIAL to getting what you want. It also impacts OUTPUT of the generator coil. Iron is always going to give you MORE.

Now I KNOW that Matt has worked out a FORMULA to figure out how many strands of what size wire wound in parallel, connected in series on a core of a certain diameter and length made up of a specific material with a specific density will speed up under load. I don't have that formula, and haven't really needed it. I know what works with the size coil I am using on my generator. That's the ONLY coil I need.

I have given ALL those specifics here many, many times, so I won't do that again and bore everyone to tears. I have rambled on enough for the middle of the night. I didn't share all this before, mostly because nobody was ready to hear it. And unless you have a WORKING system that is turning your motor, you are NOT ready. But once that system is stable, when you take the output from a generator coil back to the primaries at enough voltage, suddenly the potential difference becomes higher, the motor begins to run faster, and the generator begins to turn faster, which means the col that is connected to the primary puts out more. It's a REALLY NICE LOOP to get caught up in. And iron cores work REALLY WELL for LEARNING. Because the right kind of material is pricy, and you will ruin some coils in the learning process. Better to ruin cheapER ones. NONE of them are cheap!

Here's the funny part. MY wonderful generator run for FREE by a modified motor, producing between 1800-2000 watts of power for an input of 20 watts (inputting 400 watts but recovering all but 20 using the 3 battery system) is already outdated by the things we have learned. It isn't good enough. Not by a long shot. I would release all the info on it here, and have been really tempted, but it is still something NOBODY else has produced commercially, so worth a lot of money. And while this has NEVER been about the money for me, until I put enough away for my wife to retire, I'm going to keep a few secrets and make a few bucks. After that, who knows. Some of you have probably heard of this thing called email. If you get one some day from someone named "AnonymousRavingLoon@gmail.com" don't trash it.

Dave