3 Battery Generating System

[wantomake]

Video

Thanks Matthew,
Good video and idea there.

Always appreciate the thoughts and help.

wantomake

[kryszal05]

Sppol size

My spools are 3 1/4" long and 3" in diameter with a 3/4" core. I plan to wind 12 parallel series connected 23 awg magnetic wire. The length is not yet determined. I'll check with Turion on the length.

wantomake

Hi wantomake,

Thank you for spool size. I use metric units, so my wire is a little bit smaller (0.55mm, wikipedia says that 23 AWG wire is 0.57). What about magnets? I have 12 neo magnets, N42 20mm in diameter if I remember correctly.

I also rewound razor motor with Matt's suggestions in his vidoes, but you and Turion mentioned earlier that this motor could be to small for this size generator. Maybe later I will try to buy something bigger for prime mover. In few days I will be back home (I am on holiday right now) and I will try to start my construction. I hope to share my results here

Thanks to Matt and Turion for this great project and to you, wantomake, for inspiration and sharing your fantastic work.

Greetings,
Lukasz

[Turion]

Info

If you can spin your rotor by hand to get things going, the MY1016 razor scooter motor will work for you. If you have so many magnets and coils that YOU can’t turn the rotor by hand, don’t expect your motor to do it without drawing so many amps it burns up.

On my big machine my motor (MY1020) was pulling over 100 amps at start up and still could barely break the magnetic lock. The motor, designed to max at 27 amps was pulling more like 35 during run conditions. So I had to come up with solutions.

[Turion]

Trip

I will be in San Juan, Puerto Rico around noon tomorrow and staying for a week. Anybody from that corner of the world that wants to meet up, give me a shout. Doing the tourist thing with my two boys and a few friends.

[wantomake]

Have a safe trip.

Will be finishing the big machine build by next week maybe. I have many variables to get right and working together.
Correct coil size/winding.
Coil core material.
Rpm of rotor.
Any mechanical issues.

I'm sure these variables can be adjusted and understood more as I run and test this idea. The goal of anybody trying to see overunity in this lifetime must be driven by a desire, a deep hunger to be free. Greed, fame, selfishness, human faults that block creativity doesn't bring freedom.

Right now I'm following a blueprint to build. But soon must think on my own to get all these variables working together. But there are those here to help out if needed and that encourages me to finish.

wantomake

[wrtner]

Go to Harbor Freight and get one of those wheels that you roll along the ground to measure distance.

The trouble with measuring wheels is that they come in a VERY wide range of prices. how crucial is hte result? Will a cheap one do?

[citfta]

The trouble with measuring wheels is that they come in a VERY wide range of prices. how crucial is hte result? Will a cheap one do?

Since my primary concern is to make all my coils with the same length of wire I am not really too concerned if the measurement is not exact. As far as I can tell my coils do come out with a consistent amount of wire on each of them.

[kryszal05]

If you can spin your rotor by hand to get things going, the MY1016 razor scooter motor will work for you. If you have so many magnets and coils that YOU can’t turn the rotor by hand, don’t expect your motor to do it without drawing so many amps it burns up.

On my big machine my motor (MY1020) was pulling over 100 amps at start up and still could barely break the magnetic lock. The motor, designed to max at 27 amps was pulling more like 35 during run conditions. So I had to come up with solutions.

Hi Turion,

Thank you for the info.

I have just read old posts in Basic Free Energy Device thread and you mentioned over there that you wound colis with 12 strands. Is this litz wire setup? Is it possible to use some of these wires to connect them in series to speed up under load or wires should be wound as bifilar to achive this?

Thanks
Lukasz

[Turion]

Measuring wheel

I used the cheapest one Lowe’s sells and all my coils work under load to speed the motor up. There is enough margin of error to cover you. Take a look at the chart to see how many ohms the correct length of wire should have and then measure the strands on your coil. That will keep you in the ball park.

Those of you who build these things are going to see that every single thing we have said is absolutely true if you build it correctly with the correct batteries. One day in the not too distant future we hope to have a whole bunch more stuff to share with you all. How much of what gets shared depends on a bunch of different things, but the basis for everything is this basic three battery circuit and changing your understanding of how electricity works and how YOU should be using it. Everything else is just using it more efficiently. We are in the process of testing some ferrite cores for the razor scooter motor as both motor coils and generator coils. Will let you all know the results. I have yet to build a razor scooter generator that speeds up under load, so putting together the specs for THAT is a big project I want to complete. Of course if somebody out there wants to give that a shot I wouldn’t mind at all.

[Turion]

Response

Lukasz,

No, not litz. 12 strands in parallel. I said to wind the generator coils with 12 strands about 200-250 feet long of #23 for a very simple reason. It gives you MORE options. You are probably going to have to connect at least 4 strands in series to get the speed up under load effect. MAYBE MORE. It depends on the size of your rotor, number of rotor magnets, core material and rpm you are turning the rotor at. I have no way of telling you absolutely that what YOU have will work unless it is exactly the same as what I have.

I can absolutely tell you what works with MY rotor with the number, size, and strength of the magnets I am using and with my core material running at the rpm I am running at. But then you will build something completely different and wonder why it doesn’t work.

That’s the problem with this stuff. The “so called” replicators use whatever crap they have to replicate with, and when it doesn’t work they look every place but the mirror for someone to blame. Sorry, I am ranting. I know you are trying and are just after a little help, and I WANT you to be successful, so will answer any questions I can. Don’t mean to lump a guy who is trying to build with guys who “claim” to have replicated our stuff.
:-)

[wantomake]

Forward then

I used the cheapest one Lowe’s sells and all my coils work under load to speed the motor up. There is enough margin of error to cover you. Take a look at the chart to see how many ohms the correct length of wire should have and then measure the strands on your coil. That will keep you in the ball park.

Those of you who build these things are going to see that every single thing we have said is absolutely true if you build it correctly with the correct batteries. One day in the not too distant future we hope to have a whole bunch more stuff to share with you all. How much of what gets shared depends on a bunch of different things, but the basis for everything is this basic three battery circuit and changing your understanding of how electricity works and how YOU should be using it. Everything else is just using it more efficiently. We are in the process of testing some ferrite cores for the razor scooter motor as both motor coils and generator coils. Will let you all know the results. I have yet to build a razor scooter generator that speeds up under load, so putting together the specs for THAT is a big project I want to complete. Of course if somebody out there wants to give that a shot I wouldn’t mind at all.

I'm not moving very fast on my build but still moving ahead. I may be mounting the motor tomorrow. Got all the pvc spacers on the dowels. Will post more pics also.

I have much to learn here but, will be happy to see all you and Matt are doing. I envision a prototype coming from this upright generator that is like the Muller build but shaped as a electric motor with housing to make a powerful compact unit.

Looking forward to what this can become.
wantomake

[wantomake]

A little more progress

Got a little more work done on the generator today. Even with all the rain and stormy weather. Hope these are clear enough and helpful to anyone that may be trying to build this Turion style generator. The PVC pipe works good for the spacers on the dowels. I did a couple test runs with the smaller MY1016 motor. There is some off balance with the rotor. Not sure why. Maybe the 1/16" plexiglas in the middle of the two circular rotors is out of alignment some.

More brass screws will be used in the top later on. I've used brass screws in the rotor area.

I've built this unit in my shop with basic shop tools. The rotor and magnets were donated by a member.
wantomake
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[wantomake]

Coffee and a good morning

Good morning Energeticforum !!!

I'm drinking coffee while enjoying the morning sun as it breaks over the trees.

The generator is at a stand still as I want to try different coils with cores. This is one of those variables discussed earlier. The correct or best core material is yet to be disclosed. But until that time I'll be using 1/16" welding rods. I saw John Bedini and Dave (Turion) use some type. Not sure the exact metal "softness" or whatever the term used there. Muller used ferrite cores on his machine.

According to Turion the variables must be adjusted, matched, or set to get results. One thing the rpms of my rotor must be adjustable. So I'm shopping for a DC power supply.

Any comments or ideas are welcome. My goal is to witness a self running machine that can be scaled to fit on a vehicle or scooter. Then the hope and dreams of my heart will become a reality.

wantomake

[Turion]

Look at it this way....
When the coil is not connected to a load, it doesn't matter what kind of setup you have. As long as the motor is capable of turning the rotor with magnets on it past the coil, the wheel will go round and round with no change in speed except that which is caused by the attraction of the magnets on the rotor to the coil cores.

The instant you connect that coil to a load, you have a complete electrical circuit that includes a coil wrapped around some kind of a core. Magnetic flux is going to be captured by that core from the passing magnet, which creates electrical current in the (now completed) wire circuit The wire wrapped around the core turns the core into a powerful electromagnet of the SAME polarity as the magnet that created the flux. Let's call that "the event".

At the moment the event takes place, WHERE is that rotor magnet in relation to the core? THAT"s the entire key to success here. If it is approaching the core, the rotor will slow because you have to FORCE the two opposing magnetic fields to align. Now your motor cries out in pain. If it is at TDC (top dead center), you will push the rotor away with explosive force. This makes your motor cheer. If it is PAST TDC you will STILL push the magnet away, but not as forcefully. This only makes your motor smile.

How do you CONTROL the relationship between the magnet and the coil core. If the rotor is turning FAST enough, the magnet is at TDC when the event happens. If it is NOT at TDC, speed up the rotor and it WILL BE. This is why I have CONTINUALLY said that ANY coil will speed up under load AT THE RIGHT RPM. Using proper gearing or more voltage input to the motor, you can MAKE the event happen when you want it to. Timing is EVERYTHING

But there are OTHER ways to do it too.

Changing the core material so that it absorbs the magnetic flux FASTER or SLOWER changes when the wire becomes "electrified", which controls when the event happens.

Changing the capacity of the coil so that it requires MORE magnetic flux to "electrify" all that wire and induce the event also works. You can do this by HOW you wind and connect the wire as Tesla showed us and I have shown here MANY TIMES, or you can just put lots and lots of wire on the coil as Thaine Heinz did at first, OR.... you can put a small capacitor in parallel with the coil that absorbs SOME of the electricity generated by the flux in the core and slows down the timing of the event. THAT is what they did in Tesla's day. Tesla's winding solution was designed to REPLACE the capacitor which was expensive and hard to work with back then. Now they are CHEAP and easy to use. You would need to do some research to determine the RIGHT SIZE capacitor, because you NEED the event to happen, but it wouldn't take MUCH to change WHEN it happens. How much electrical energy will your coil hold as compared to a small cap? This will allow you to run at MUCH SLOWER SPEEDS by the way.

As you may notice, the NUMBER of magnets on the rotor has NO effect on the event, because EACH magnet creates its OWN event. So your only real variables are RPM and coil capacity (As determined by winding pattern, length of wire and the possible addition of a capacitor). I know I have probably said otherwise at times, but I was full of crap. I probably just wanted to sound like I know what I'm talking about. Sometimes I do, and sometimes I just make **** up for fun. Actually it is because there are SO MANY variables associated with building a generator and I just lump them all together even though some only affect the output or the ability of the motor to turn the rotor and have NOTHING to do with the delayed Lenz effect.

This is the sum total of knowledge I have gained about how to get a generator to speed up under load. It is not "Lenz Free" as many people would like to believe, and I know I have used that term at times myself when referring to what I have built. Lenz is going to happen. This just controls WHEN the event happens so that YOU can use it to your advantage. Or not. Your choice.

Hopefully this helps a little.

[wantomake]

The event

Sorry Dave I just saw this and copied it to my other collected pages on a note book app.

But all I'm able to do is read through it a bunch of times but have nothing to post about. Cutting grass all day at my age has my brains locked down. I'll study through this with a clear head and hot coffee in the morning. Waiting for wielding rods now for the core material.

May need to take the rotor off and have a local shop balance it for me. The machine vibrates itself almost off the bench at times.

wantomake