3 Battery Generating System

[Matthew Jones]

@BI
I know your probing for something to be wrong, and unfortunately in process of looking you didn't listen to what I said.

The yellow clip is to hold the multi meter (I didn't mention that), The current is high because I am stepping up to near 36 volt. Thats modified motor which you have no experience with at 24 volt runs about 1.5 amp no load. The jumpy current is because the motor discharges back to source, a good portion of we put in it and the BEMF. Analogs jump around to.
A scope is the only probe that will average out the RMS value of the current and make it appear stable. The only thing that limits the current going into the motor is time on. Its in constant inrush state.
Unlike the motor your using which is conventional and throws 85% of its current away just charging the coils after the initial inrush and first rotation. This is pretty documented stuff in this community, especially how in efficient and underpowered conventional motors are.

Matthew,
I have another longer type my1016 motor that I want to modify and use as a smaller generator.
Since the rotor is longer would I use the same method as the prime mover motor? Or different awg, number of turns, and method of winding on the rotor at 40,30,30 turns?
I like the videos. Was going to setup the same way but, my marine batteries are 115 amp hours. The test would be too long and the motor way too hot.
wantomake

If your going to use it as a generator Instead of using 3 strand of 24 I would use 1 strand and go for the voltage, then use a regulator. Either way though a motor converted is going to find away to slow down unless you can get 10 ohms of resistance on that rotor per coil. Thats going to be like 28 or 30 awg pretty useless. The rotor has alot of iron mass and the ratio of copper needed to get it to accelerate and produce any real current just won't fit on it.

I would save the motor, give me a few days I am putting a small little gen together. If it works I can send you the pieces and a some shaft, probably bearings too. You'll have to get the wire though you'll need a 11lb spool for both coils. You already have the magnets.
The modified motor should be able to get the rotor up to speed enough to cause the acceleration.

Email me and let me know.

Matt

[bistander]

My tests

...
I know your probing for something to be wrong, and unfortunately in process of looking you didn't listen to what I said. ...

Hey, I was just giving another data set. I'm looking to understand.

...
Unlike the motor your using which is conventional and throws 85% of its current away just charging the coils after the initial inrush and first rotation. This is pretty documented stuff in this community, especially how in efficient and underpowered conventional motors are.
...

I don't understand how a motor "throws 85% of its current away". You can see the current into the motor is equal to the current out of the motor, always.

"how inefficient and underpowered conventional motors are." This is BS. Yes, I've seen that several places on this forum. It is opinions of those who do not understand how motors actually work. Electric motors are extremely efficient and designed to meet the appropriate power requirements. But that is off topic.

Are you opposed to me duplicating your experiments even without the modded motor and posting resulting data? I thought you wanted folks to build and test.

Regards,

bi

[dragon]

Matt, out of curiosity - are you measuring current between the pos of the battery and pos input to the Boost? or on the negative side?

If it's on the pos side then your measuring both boost and motor current combined and your readings/time may be inaccurate. You might want to double check that...

[Turion]

Efficiency???

Bi,
When you speak of efficiency of a motor you are thinking of how much of the input energy is CONVERTED to mechanical energy, are you not?

When WE speak of the efficiency of a motor we think of how much of the input energy is or CAN BE returned without being used. Which is “MORE” efficient?

[wantomake]

Reply

Matt,
Sent you an email.

wantomake

[Matthew Jones]

Hey, I was just giving another data set. I'm looking to understand.

I don't understand how a motor "throws 85% of its current away". You can see the current into the motor is equal to the current out of the motor, always.

"how inefficient and underpowered conventional motors are." This is BS. Yes, I've seen that several places on this forum. It is opinions of those who do not understand how motors actually work. Electric motors are extremely efficient and designed to meet the appropriate power requirements. But that is off topic.

Are you opposed to me duplicating your experiments even without the modded motor and posting resulting data? I thought you wanted folks to build and test.

Regards,

bi

You can feel free to do what ever you want, but building contrary to what was outlined and reporting the fail over and over is little mundane. We get it it doesn't work for you, we told you it wouldn't.
Peter Lindemann, has PHD in motor/generator science. He has a lot of books and material and on the subject. I have built and designed several very efficient motors in line with the principles he outlines. I know first hand why and how they work. If you have problem with my opinion based on my experience then go argue with him.
Also if you feel the need to challenge everything said than do so based on the material at hand and replicate the project as outlined, or go away.
Thank you for your understanding for our need to move forward...

Matt, out of curiosity - are you measuring current between the pos of the battery and pos input to the Boost? or on the negative side?
If it's on the pos side then your measuring both boost and motor current combined and your readings/time may be inaccurate. You might want to double check that...

I'll do that. In fact I was going to try to measure the whole thing top to bottom on the next go around.


Matt

[altrez]

Hello All,

Got my boost converters in.



Testing soon!

-Altrez

[bistander]

Peter Lindemann

...
Peter Lindemann, has PHD in motor/generator science. ...

Hardly. I can find no evidence he has any real degree from a real university or college. This is how he became Dr. Lindemann.

In the Spring of 1999, Peter was nominated by the late Dr. Robert Adams of New Zealand for a Doctorate degree to the Board of Governors of the Open International University of Alternative Medicine in Colombo, Sri Lanka. After a 9 month review of past experience and published work, he was granted a Doctorate of Science degree (honorus causa) in Complimentary Medicine, based on his previous life work.

Quote from: Dr. Peter Lindemann | Free Energy

Lindemann is among those to whom I referred when I said this: "It is opinions of those who do not understand how motors actually work." I encourage you to seek the truth motors and generators.

BTW, I did attempt to engage him in a discussion concerning physics where we disagreed. He simply went away and then shortly retired from this forum. I welcome an opportunity to discuss his opinions of why, as you say, motors are inefficient and underpowered and how 85% of the current is thrown away.

Regards,

bi

ps. Sorry for off topic. Please drop it and return to testing.

[altrez]

I think if I am not mistaken that the my1016 is around 75% efficient and from my tests of stock motors I would say its even better then that.

-Altrez

[Matthew Jones]

Hello All,

Got my boost converters in.



Testing soon!

-Altrez

Good to hear.
I am going to film a couple of tests that address this issue with ground side.

Matt

[altrez]

To All,

Does anyone know if there is something I can buy on Amazon to couple the two motors together fairly easily?

Thanks!!

-Altrez

[Turion]

Couplet

https://m.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Motor-Fle...8mm+shaft.TRS0

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Helica...GuL&ref=plSrch

[Matthew Jones]

So this video addresses Dragons concerns about ground side measurement. Well somewhat anyway. You see my point of view and it should give you something to think about.

If the currents are equal we are loosing power, it might even be power that we had nothing to do with, just an environmental generation of power.

I am trying to make people think, because with thought comes the resolution. We might even find more power than we are putting in if we can find an answer to why the 2 have to be so different.

If the Boost converter is only only contributing what you see on the ground side measurement and the hot measurement is the combination of the 2 sides converging, then why is it flowing through the inductor? Why doesn't the ground reflect everything that moves through the inductor? Can we just build up the current and allow it to flow freely while limiting the amount we add?

To me the answer to what is happening is clear. There is more power hear then we can account for and we are trying to resolve it with the tools we have been given, while those tools may be flawed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dv5r...ature=youtu.be

Just think about it.

Matt

[altrez]

https://m.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Motor-Fle...8mm+shaft.TRS0

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Helica...GuL&ref=plSrch

Thank you so much!!

-Altrez

[dragon]

This is basically what I was saying... Fig 1 shows a basic layout of the diagram Dave posted and bistander is working with. ( minus the generator portion ).

We can see there is 2 current paths that are shared on the positive side - The boost circuit running between positive and negative of the battery and the motor circuit running on the potential between the boost coil ends.

The amp meter on the shared positive will read both currents, the one on the neg side will read only that being drawn by the boost converter.

Fig 2 shows a 2 battery system with 2 separate loads, one for each battery but the positive line is shared. Even though each load requires 5 amps the shared line sees both currents flowing.

Measuring the combined currents on the positive side might be misleading, also the run time based on battery capacity would be off to some degree...

That's all I was pointing out...